Hi there,

I pop on here every once in a while, like when I need help.

I am making Mahogany frames for 6' tall bookshelves. Very simple
2" x 3/4" wood. When I purchased the wood, I asked what a stable
wood would be so it does not warp on me. He said they are all fine.

So it warped right after I cut the 2" strips. Duh.
So now the long rectangular frames are glued together, mostly OK
but one is still warped as a hole, which means one corner of the door will
stick out maybe 1/2" and will not line up with its matching door other side.

So my big question is can I straighten it up before I stain and finish it?
After?

If so, how? Should I use water or steam? Or will that warp it up more
in other places? I am clamping it - pushing it in the opposite direction a
bit for now.

Thanks,

Ross

"Ross" wrote in message
...
Hi there,

I pop on here every once in a while, like when I need help.

I am making Mahogany frames for 6' tall bookshelves. Very simple
2" x 3/4" wood. When I purchased the wood, I asked what a stable
wood would be so it does not warp on me. He said they are all fine.

So it warped right after I cut the 2" strips. Duh.
So now the long rectangular frames are glued together, mostly OK
but one is still warped as a hole, which means one corner of the door will
stick out maybe 1/2" and will not line up with its matching door other
side.

So my big question is can I straighten it up before I stain and finish it?
After?

If so, how? Should I use water or steam? Or will that warp it up more
in other places? I am clamping it - pushing it in the opposite direction a
bit for now.

Thanks,

Ross


When you say it warped as a whole do you mean it twisted? Won't it go back
to flat when you attach it to the carcase?

Hi there,

I pop on here every once in a while, like when I need help.

I am making Mahogany frames for 6' tall bookshelves. Very simple
2" x 3/4" wood. When I purchased the wood, I asked what a stable
wood would be so it does not warp on me. He said they are all fine.

So it warped right after I cut the 2" strips. Duh.
So now the long rectangular frames are glued together, mostly OK
but one is still warped as a hole, which means one corner of the door will
stick out maybe 1/2" and will not line up with its matching door other
side.

So my big question is can I straighten it up before I stain and finish it?
After?

If so, how? Should I use water or steam? Or will that warp it up more
in other places? I am clamping it - pushing it in the opposite direction a
bit for now.

Thanks,

Ross


When you say it warped as a whole do you mean it twisted? Won't it go back
to flat when you attach it to the carcase?

Yes, it twisted. I think once it is mounted with 2 hinges, one corner will
stick out and not match up with the opposite door frame. If the magnet is
strong enough to hold it down, great. But if not, then it will look bad.

Ross wrote:

I am making Mahogany frames for 6' tall bookshelves. Very simple

So it warped right after I cut the 2" strips. Duh.
So now the long rectangular frames are glued together, mostly OK
but one is still warped as a hole, which means one corner of the door will
stick out maybe 1/2" and will not line up with its matching door other
side.

So my big question is can I straighten it up before I stain and finish it?
After?

Stain mahogany? Isn't that illegal?

Anyway, I went through something similar with walnut poster frames a bit
ago. They started to warp as soon as they came off the saw. Whee.

In my case, I used the wood anyway, and I nailed the frames to the wall in
strategic places to hold them flat.

Your description is a bit vague, and I'm uncertain how the frames relate to
the doors. I have no idea whether you might be able to cheat in a similar
fashion or not.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

"Ross" wrote in message
...

Hi there,

I pop on here every once in a while, like when I need help.

I am making Mahogany frames for 6' tall bookshelves. Very simple
2" x 3/4" wood. When I purchased the wood, I asked what a stable
wood would be so it does not warp on me. He said they are all fine.

So it warped right after I cut the 2" strips. Duh.
So now the long rectangular frames are glued together, mostly OK
but one is still warped as a hole, which means one corner of the door
will
stick out maybe 1/2" and will not line up with its matching door other
side.

So my big question is can I straighten it up before I stain and finish
it?
After?

If so, how? Should I use water or steam? Or will that warp it up more
in other places? I am clamping it - pushing it in the opposite
direction a
bit for now.

Thanks,

Ross


When you say it warped as a whole do you mean it twisted? Won't it go
back
to flat when you attach it to the carcase?

Yes, it twisted. I think once it is mounted with 2 hinges, one corner will
stick out and not match up with the opposite door frame. If the magnet is
strong enough to hold it down, great. But if not, then it will look bad.


OK, so these are door frames and not face frames? What's going to go inside
the frame? Glass, wood? If you put the frame flat on the floor, how much
pressure does it take to flatten it out?

Hi there,

I pop on here every once in a while, like when I need help.

I am making Mahogany frames for 6' tall bookshelves. Very simple
2" x 3/4" wood. When I purchased the wood, I asked what a stable
wood would be so it does not warp on me. He said they are all fine.

So it warped right after I cut the 2" strips. Duh.
So now the long rectangular frames are glued together, mostly OK
but one is still warped as a hole, which means one corner of the door
will
stick out maybe 1/2" and will not line up with its matching door other
side.

So my big question is can I straighten it up before I stain and finish
it?
After?

If so, how? Should I use water or steam? Or will that warp it up more
in other places? I am clamping it - pushing it in the opposite
direction a
bit for now.

Thanks,

Ross


When you say it warped as a whole do you mean it twisted? Won't it go
back
to flat when you attach it to the carcase?

Yes, it twisted. I think once it is mounted with 2 hinges, one corner will
stick out and not match up with the opposite door frame. If the magnet is
strong enough to hold it down, great. But if not, then it will look bad.


OK, so these are door frames and not face frames? What's going to go inside
the frame? Glass, wood? If you put the frame flat on the floor, how much
pressure does it take to flatten it out?

Glass or plastic inside, frosted. I pushed with a postal scale - just over 2
lbs. Also tried the magnet and it may actually hold it. Maybe...

But I am still curious to know if there is anything I should do before I put
finish on it..Or during drying?

From: Silvan
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2003 01:08:57 -0500
Subject: wood warping: help

Ross wrote:

I am making Mahogany frames for 6' tall bookshelves. Very simple

So it warped right after I cut the 2" strips. Duh.
So now the long rectangular frames are glued together, mostly OK
but one is still warped as a hole, which means one corner of the door will
stick out maybe 1/2" and will not line up with its matching door other
side.

So my big question is can I straighten it up before I stain and finish it?
After?

Stain mahogany? Isn't that illegal?

What d'ya mean? I thought everyone stains mahogany???
What finish do you prefer????

Ross

"Ross" wrote in message
...
Hi there,

I pop on here every once in a while, like when I need help.

I am making Mahogany frames for 6' tall bookshelves. Very simple
2" x 3/4" wood. When I purchased the wood, I asked what a stable
wood would be so it does not warp on me. He said they are all fine.

So it warped right after I cut the 2" strips. Duh.
So now the long rectangular frames are glued together, mostly OK
but one is still warped as a hole, which means one corner of the door
will
stick out maybe 1/2" and will not line up with its matching door
other
side.

So my big question is can I straighten it up before I stain and
finish
it?
After?

If so, how? Should I use water or steam? Or will that warp it up more
in other places? I am clamping it - pushing it in the opposite
direction a
bit for now.

Thanks,

Ross


When you say it warped as a whole do you mean it twisted? Won't it go
back
to flat when you attach it to the carcase?

Yes, it twisted. I think once it is mounted with 2 hinges, one corner
will
stick out and not match up with the opposite door frame. If the magnet
is
strong enough to hold it down, great. But if not, then it will look
bad.


OK, so these are door frames and not face frames? What's going to go
inside
the frame? Glass, wood? If you put the frame flat on the floor, how
much
pressure does it take to flatten it out?

Glass or plastic inside, frosted. I pushed with a postal scale - just over
2
lbs. Also tried the magnet and it may actually hold it. Maybe...

But I am still curious to know if there is anything I should do before I
put
finish on it..Or during drying?


If it's only a couple of pounds, the plastic/glass might bring it back.
What thickness of glass/plastic are you using? If you're only using
1/16"glass, I'd think about going 1/8 or 3/16. As far as any other hints,
just make sure you do all sides the same. If you put 3 coats of shellac on
the outside, put 3 coats on the inside and edges.