I'm about halfway through the set up of the Ridgid 3560, and have gotten
tired and frustrated, so quit. While it's fresh in my mind, I'd like to
address a few thoughts:

If you're manufacturing or building something, stick to the most common
sizes. For wrenches, that's 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", and 5/8". Sizes
such as 15/32" are sometimes found in socket sets, so if you want to use
that size make it socket accessible. Also, if you're going to use one
size from another measurement system, make the entire thing using that
system. Don't mix the two systems. I'm rarely a purist, but this is one
case where it's absolutely necessary.

Some have suggested installing the Herc-u-lift system before turning the
saw over. I tried this, and think it would have gone easier after
turning the saw over. Gravity seemed to work more against me than with
me.

Many advise installing the wings after the saw is turned over, and I
agree with this... with one caveat: The wings are heavy, so attaching
them up in the air might not be an easy task for a single person.

The manual advises running a nut down the adjuster foot all the way it
can go, then putting them on the legs. In reality, the foot is going to
stick out around 1/4-1/2", so you don't need to go all the way to the
bottom. I don't enjoy leveling, so I like simple time saving tips.

Vise grips, an adjustable wrench, and a socket wrench are tremendous time
savers on this tool.

Puckdropper
--
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

On 17 Mar 2008 03:57:50 GMT, Puckdropper wrote:

I'm about halfway through the set up of the Ridgid 3560, and have gotten
tired and frustrated, so quit. While it's fresh in my mind, I'd like to
address a few thoughts:

If you're manufacturing or building something, stick to the most common
sizes. For wrenches, that's 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", and 5/8". Sizes
such as 15/32" are sometimes found in socket sets, so if you want to use
that size make it socket accessible. Also, if you're going to use one
size from another measurement system, make the entire thing using that
system. Don't mix the two systems. I'm rarely a purist, but this is one
case where it's absolutely necessary.

I think I used metric, but you're right on about uniform sizing..

Some have suggested installing the Herc-u-lift system before turning the
saw over. I tried this, and think it would have gone easier after
turning the saw over. Gravity seemed to work more against me than with me.

I tried it the way the instructions tell you to.. might have worked if I had a
helper, but alone it just wasn't worth the trouble, so I flipped it upside
down..

There was another issue in there somewhere, but I can't remember what sort of
assembly problem it was... have to look at the saw tomorrow..

Many advise installing the wings after the saw is turned over, and I
agree with this... with one caveat: The wings are heavy, so attaching
them up in the air might not be an easy task for a single person.

I should have done just that... they needed so much alignment that I couldn't
see any advantage of doing it table side down on a flat surface..
I did feel the disadvantage of flipping it right-side-up with the wings on it..
Again, I was alone and the instructions call for 2 people, as I remember..

The manual advises running a nut down the adjuster foot all the way it
can go, then putting them on the legs. In reality, the foot is going to
stick out around 1/4-1/2", so you don't need to go all the way to the
bottom. I don't enjoy leveling, so I like simple time saving tips.

I do all my tools the same... feet screwed in against the leg bottom and then
lowered as needed... you can have them all the way out and get them level, but
with that much bolt exposed you've got unneeded sway and vibration..

Vise grips, an adjustable wrench, and a socket wrench are tremendous time
savers on this tool.

As was a drill driver with flex shaft and socket adapter..
I'm a wood guy.. I gave up skinning knuckles on sheet metal a long time ago..
;-]


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"Puckdropper" wrote in message
...
I'm about halfway through the set up of the Ridgid 3560, and have gotten
tired and frustrated, so quit. While it's fresh in my mind, I'd like to
address a few thoughts:

If you're manufacturing or building something, stick to the most common
sizes. For wrenches, that's 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", and 5/8". Sizes
such as 15/32" are sometimes found in socket sets, so if you want to use
that size make it socket accessible. Also, if you're going to use one
size from another measurement system, make the entire thing using that
system. Don't mix the two systems. I'm rarely a purist, but this is one
case where it's absolutely necessary.

I used both an english and a metric socket set to assemble my 3650.
I did make a few unkind comments about mixing measurement systems.

Many advise installing the wings after the saw is turned over, and I
agree with this... with one caveat: The wings are heavy, so attaching
them up in the air might not be an easy task for a single person.

I clamped a 4 foot length of 2x4 to a wing. I then clamped the other end of
the 2x4 to the table top to temporarily hold the wing while I inserted the first
screws and shims.


Dan

"Puckdropper" wrote in message
If you're manufacturing or building something, stick to the most common
sizes. For wrenches, that's 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", and 5/8". Sizes
such as 15/32" are sometimes found in socket sets, so if you want to use
that size make it socket accessible.

A good reason to use metric.

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"Puckdropper" wrote in message
If you're manufacturing or building something, stick to the most
common sizes. For wrenches, that's 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", and
5/8". Sizes such as 15/32" are sometimes found in socket sets, so
if you want to use that size make it socket accessible.

A good reason to use metric.

Nothing prevents a fastener manufacturer from making 10.5mm heads.
The point is that they should use standard sizes. If they're going to
use nonstandard ones they can as easily do that in Metric as in
English units.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"Puckdropper" wrote

agree with this... with one caveat: The wings are heavy, so attaching
them up in the air might not be an easy task for a single person.

A good case for why every wooddorker should be wed ... in the old days, a
stout wife was considered a good wife.

"Hoonnnney ... Please come hold this end while I...."

BTDT ...


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/8/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Puckdropper,

I just finished assembling mine last week, and was able to do it alone...and
I am oldg

I turned the saw upright before putting on the wings. I also put the lift
on before putting on the wings. Saved me from bumping my head, which i seem
to do at every opportunityg

I rolled the saw over to a table that was almost the same height as the saw
and used that to hold the wings up while i put in the first couple of bolts.

I was fortunate to have a set of sockets and wrenches that contained both
SAE and metric so that didnt pose too much of a problem...but I do wish they
had standardized on one or the other. Instructions for installing the lift
left much to the imagination.

Good luck on the rest of the assembly!

Skip
www.ShopFileR.com



"Puckdropper" wrote in message
...
I'm about halfway through the set up of the Ridgid 3560, and have gotten
tired and frustrated, so quit. While it's fresh in my mind, I'd like to
address a few thoughts:

If you're manufacturing or building something, stick to the most common
sizes. For wrenches, that's 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", and 5/8". Sizes
such as 15/32" are sometimes found in socket sets, so if you want to use
that size make it socket accessible. Also, if you're going to use one
size from another measurement system, make the entire thing using that
system. Don't mix the two systems. I'm rarely a purist, but this is one
case where it's absolutely necessary.

Some have suggested installing the Herc-u-lift system before turning the
saw over. I tried this, and think it would have gone easier after
turning the saw over. Gravity seemed to work more against me than with
me.

Many advise installing the wings after the saw is turned over, and I
agree with this... with one caveat: The wings are heavy, so attaching
them up in the air might not be an easy task for a single person.

The manual advises running a nut down the adjuster foot all the way it
can go, then putting them on the legs. In reality, the foot is going to
stick out around 1/4-1/2", so you don't need to go all the way to the
bottom. I don't enjoy leveling, so I like simple time saving tips.

Vise grips, an adjustable wrench, and a socket wrench are tremendous time
savers on this tool.

Puckdropper
--
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Swingman wrote:
"Puckdropper" wrote

agree with this... with one caveat: The wings are heavy, so attaching
them up in the air might not be an easy task for a single person.

A good case for why every wooddorker should be wed ... in the old days, a
stout wife was considered a good wife.

"Hoonnnney ... Please come hold this end while I...."

BTDT ...


Cuts down on the number of clamps required. If you work it right, keeps
them from bugging you until the glue dries...

"Doug Winterburn" wrote

Cuts down on the number of clamps required. If you work it right, keeps
them from bugging you until the glue dries...

SWMBO wouldn't know a SCMS from a chisel, but she is an expert on applying
glue "to that end, while I apply it to this end", and she can expertly
operate _any_ clamp in the shop.

.... and for anyone with a similar partner, that's gloatworthy!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/8/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Mon, 17 Mar 2008 08:10:21 -0400, "J. Clarke" wrote:

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"Puckdropper" wrote in message
If you're manufacturing or building something, stick to the most
common sizes. For wrenches, that's 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", and
5/8". Sizes such as 15/32" are sometimes found in socket sets, so
if you want to use that size make it socket accessible.

A good reason to use metric.

Nothing prevents a fastener manufacturer from making 10.5mm heads.
The point is that they should use standard sizes. If they're going to
use nonstandard ones they can as easily do that in Metric as in
English units.

--
or include a couple of cheap wrenches..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mon, 17 Mar 2008 07:38:14 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:


"Puckdropper" wrote

agree with this... with one caveat: The wings are heavy, so attaching
them up in the air might not be an easy task for a single person.

A good case for why every wooddorker should be wed ... in the old days, a
stout wife was considered a good wife.

"Hoonnnney ... Please come hold this end while I...."

BTDT ...
or in my case, having a younger wife...
I do the skill things, she does the heavy lifting... works for me!


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mon, 17 Mar 2008 10:41:11 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:

"Doug Winterburn" wrote

Cuts down on the number of clamps required. If you work it right, keeps
them from bugging you until the glue dries...

SWMBO wouldn't know a SCMS from a chisel, but she is an expert on applying
glue "to that end, while I apply it to this end", and she can expertly
operate _any_ clamp in the shop.

... and for anyone with a similar partner, that's gloatworthy!

It took 10 years, but my wife asked me to show her how to use the CMS last
week...
We brought home a truckload of 2x4 scraps and I hadn't "had time" to cut them
into fire pit size, (that trick works well), so she cut 'em all to 18", stacked
them in the wheel barrow and ran them to our pit and the neighbor's..

Oh.. and I bought a new ROS a couple of months ago and she just loves it.... I
have to borrow it from her now if I need it..lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
On Mon, 17 Mar 2008 10:41:11 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:

"Doug Winterburn" wrote

Cuts down on the number of clamps required. If you work it right,
keeps
them from bugging you until the glue dries...

SWMBO wouldn't know a SCMS from a chisel, but she is an expert on
applying
glue "to that end, while I apply it to this end", and she can expertly
operate _any_ clamp in the shop.

... and for anyone with a similar partner, that's gloatworthy!

It took 10 years, but my wife asked me to show her how to use the CMS last
week...
We brought home a truckload of 2x4 scraps and I hadn't "had time" to cut
them
into fire pit size, (that trick works well), so she cut 'em all to 18",
stacked
them in the wheel barrow and ran them to our pit and the neighbor's..

Oh.. and I bought a new ROS a couple of months ago and she just loves
it.... I
have to borrow it from her now if I need it..lol

You both suck!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/8/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

*snip: Previous Installation Notes*

Finished the installation today, except for waxing and putting the end
caps on the rails. (I haven't cleaned off the top of the saw yet, so
it's still protected.)

A few more notes:
Take the blade guard off and then loosen the set screw the first time.
That set screw was TIGHT. It bent (and bent back straight) one allen
wrench, but the second one succeeded in moving it. Once you have the set
screw on the blade guard assembly loosened, then you can put the guard
back on and work on aligning it.

The bolts attaching the Herc-u-lift supports to the legs need to be
rather loose. You can get away with tightening the nuts until there's
two or three threads under the nut. Also, the adjuster feet should be
close to the legs, not sticking very far out. That way, there should be
enough clearance to get over variations in the floor. (Like for a
drain.)

I missed installing the foot stabilizer pieces (the metal part that goes
on the bottom of the leg), so I guess I'm going to go without them for a
while. Make sure you have the pieces in this order: adjuster foot, nut,
stabilizer, leg, nut.

The belt seems to be way too slack when installing it. Dont worry about
it. When you raise the blade the belt will lose that slack.

Everything else went well, except I misread the directions installing the
front rail and aligned it wrong. Not a big deal, I've just got to adjust
it before I can use the ruler on the fence.

I fired it up and heard a distinctive "whoosh" sound. At that point, I
knew I had a quality tool. A couple test cuts showed the fence was nice
and square and the miter gauge was tool. I put the two cut ends up
against a combination square, and had very little light showing through
either side.

It's time to start laying out my cuts for the next project. :-)

Puckdropper
--
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"Puckdropper" wrote in message
If you're manufacturing or building something, stick to the most
common sizes. For wrenches, that's 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", and
5/8". Sizes such as 15/32" are sometimes found in socket sets, so
if you want to use that size make it socket accessible.

A good reason to use metric.

Nothing prevents a fastener manufacturer from making 10.5mm heads.
The point is that they should use standard sizes. If they're going to
use nonstandard ones they can as easily do that in Metric as in
English units.

My guess is was standard, a 12mm at .4724. 15/32 is .4688.

I argued for two years with our mold setup guys that the nuts on some of the
clamps are 17 mm, not 11/16. They wondered why they always rounded the nuts
until one day I tossed their 11/16 sockets into the river.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in
:


"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"Puckdropper" wrote in message
If you're manufacturing or building something, stick to the most
common sizes. For wrenches, that's 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", and
5/8". Sizes such as 15/32" are sometimes found in socket sets, so
if you want to use that size make it socket accessible.

A good reason to use metric.

Nothing prevents a fastener manufacturer from making 10.5mm heads.
The point is that they should use standard sizes. If they're going
to use nonstandard ones they can as easily do that in Metric as in
English units.

My guess is was standard, a 12mm at .4724. 15/32 is .4688.

I argued for two years with our mold setup guys that the nuts on some
of the clamps are 17 mm, not 11/16. They wondered why they always
rounded the nuts until one day I tossed their 11/16 sockets into the
river.


Sounds reasonable, but the manual said to use a 1/2" wrench. After all,
don't .46 and .47 both round (pun unintended) to .5? On many other
bolts, the 7/16" fit properly, the closest to that is 11mm, .004" away.

I did finally use my metric sockets to do some work, but on the saw a
socket won't fit everywhere. Guess I've got to pick up a set of
combination metric wrenches (round on one end, open on the other. They
hang on pegboard nicely that way.)

I wish the politicians would pick one system, prevent new assemblies from
using the other one (but not replacement hardware), and end this duel
(pun intended) system. That way, we'll not only know what time it is in
Indiana, we'll also know which set of tools we need to use! (Sorry if
I'm getting a little silly... Numbers do that to me. That's why I could
never be a mathematician.)

Puckdropper
--
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

On Mar 17, 10:12 am, Doug Winterburn wrote:
Swingman wrote:
"Puckdropper" wrote

agree with this... with one caveat: The wings are heavy, so attaching
them up in the air might not be an easy task for a single person.

A good case for why every wooddorker should be wed ... in the old days, a
stout wife was considered a good wife.

"Hoonnnney ... Please come hold this end while I...."

BTDT ...

Cuts down on the number of clamps required. If you work it right, keeps
them from bugging you until the glue dries...

If you can hold the wing in position long enough to get maybe four or
five threads started on a center, or near center, bolt, you can then
swing it up and clamp each end, though not tightly, aligning the holes
as you go. When I was assembling as many as 11 tablesaws for articles,
my wife was working a dozen miles away, so I had to work it out.
Putting the wings on while the saw was upside down on the floor never
worked well for me, and, to be honest, it's a lot easier to flip them
up and standing if you don't add that weight.