Seems like a lot of the old table saws have the areas in front and
back of the throat plate worn away. (From slamming the wrench into it
to loosen the arbor nut I'd assume.) Is spray welding and regrinding
the best way to fix it? The only way? Just curious.

JP

I have used epoxy for filling holes in drill press tables with success. It
may work for your application. The materials I have used are PC-7 and West
Epoxy.
Dave

Are you going to be using MIG or stick? Be damn sure there is no
contaminants in the area as it may look nice but will fall off or break away
with one hit from a wrench. Pretty straight forward, but careful with the
grinding.

Jon


"Jay Pique" wrote in message
...
Seems like a lot of the old table saws have the areas in front and
back of the throat plate worn away. (From slamming the wrench into it
to loosen the arbor nut I'd assume.) Is spray welding and regrinding
the best way to fix it? The only way? Just curious.

JP

On Nov 28, 4:50 pm, Jay Pique wrote:
Seems like a lot of the old table saws have the areas in front and
back of the throat plate worn away. (From slamming the wrench into it
to loosen the arbor nut I'd assume.) Is spray welding and regrinding
the best way to fix it?

If it's a cast iron table, don't you have to get the WHOLE TOP
heated up (to reduce the chance of cracking) before doing a weld?
It doesn't seem likely to be worth doing,

On Nov 29, 6:50 pm, whit3rd wrote:
On Nov 28, 4:50 pm, Jay Pique wrote:

Seems like a lot of the old table saws have the areas in front and
back of the throat plate worn away. (From slamming the wrench into it
to loosen the arbor nut I'd assume.) Is spray welding and regrinding
the best way to fix it?

If it's a cast iron table, don't you have to get the WHOLE TOP
heated up (to reduce the chance of cracking) before doing a weld?
It doesn't seem likely to be worth doing,

I'm not planning on doing it, I'm just wondering how one would go
about it. Over at the mill we had some moulder beds spray welded and
they came out good as new. I just don't know how you do it, or if
it's worth it.
Just curious.
JP

Jay Pique wrote:


I'm not planning on doing it, I'm just wondering how one would go
about it. Over at the mill we had some moulder beds spray welded and
they came out good as new. I just don't know how you do it, or if
it's worth it.
Just curious.
JP

Another traditional way to build the metal back up is to braze some
brass onto the area. I don't see why that wouldn't work on a cast iron
TS top.