I am making a toy box for my grandson. I am copying this commercially
available toy box.

http://www.itoyboxes.com/toy-boxes/t...ontoychest.cfm

It will be made from plywood but I have to do a lot of edge banding with
solid wood to be able to round the edges as much as I want. I have a power
planer. Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same thickness
as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or would you leave it
oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the plywood after
gluing?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
. ..
I am making a toy box for my grandson. I am copying this commercially
available toy box.

http://www.itoyboxes.com/toy-boxes/t...ontoychest.cfm

It will be made from plywood but I have to do a lot of edge banding with
solid wood to be able to round the edges as much as I want. I have a power
planer. Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same
thickness as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or would
you leave it oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the
plywood after gluing?

TIA.

Dick Snyder


Actually I cut it slightly wider and sand the edge flush with the plywood.
Thin strips sand very quickly.

On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 15:49:48 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same
thickness as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or would
you leave it oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the
plywood after gluing?


Actually I cut it slightly wider and sand the edge flush with the plywood.
Thin strips sand very quickly.


What he said, if the strips are really thin.

If the strips are tad thicker than normal to accommodate the shaping,
a router with a flush trim bit (bearing on the end away from the
shank) will also clean it up nicely. This is easier on a table with
a tall fence, or if you clamp a block to the side you're not cutting
to steady the router.



---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 15:49:48 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same
thickness as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or
would
you leave it oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the
plywood after gluing?


Actually I cut it slightly wider and sand the edge flush with the plywood.
Thin strips sand very quickly.


What he said, if the strips are really thin.

If the strips are tad thicker than normal to accommodate the shaping,
a router with a flush trim bit (bearing on the end away from the
shank) will also clean it up nicely. This is easier on a table with
a tall fence, or if you clamp a block to the side you're not cutting
to steady the router.



---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

The strips are going to be closer to 1/2" thick in order to get the rounding
I want. That is your option #2 Barry. Thanks for the idea on the flush trim
bit. That is what I will do.

On Nov 16, 5:40 pm, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:
"B A R R Y" wrote in messagenews:s84sj39ntjimncolqhssj2h04g6463nhl5@4ax .com...



On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 15:49:48 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same
thickness as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or
would
you leave it oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the
plywood after gluing?

Actually I cut it slightly wider and sand the edge flush with the plywood.
Thin strips sand very quickly.

What he said, if the strips are really thin.

If the strips are tad thicker than normal to accommodate the shaping,
a router with a flush trim bit (bearing on the end away from the
shank) will also clean it up nicely. This is easier on a table with
a tall fence, or if you clamp a block to the side you're not cutting
to steady the router.

---------------------------------------------
**http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

The strips are going to be closer to 1/2" thick in order to get the rounding
I want. That is your option #2 Barry. Thanks for the idea on the flush trim
bit. That is what I will do.

I prefer this method: (Drew this up for you)
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...y/Edgetrim.jpg

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Nov 16, 5:40 pm, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:
"B A R R Y" wrote in
messagenews:s84sj39ntjimncolqhssj2h04g6463nhl5@4ax .com...



On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 15:49:48 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same
thickness as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or
would
you leave it oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match
the
plywood after gluing?

Actually I cut it slightly wider and sand the edge flush with the
plywood.
Thin strips sand very quickly.

What he said, if the strips are really thin.

If the strips are tad thicker than normal to accommodate the shaping,
a router with a flush trim bit (bearing on the end away from the
shank) will also clean it up nicely. This is easier on a table with
a tall fence, or if you clamp a block to the side you're not cutting
to steady the router.

---------------------------------------------
**http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

The strips are going to be closer to 1/2" thick in order to get the
rounding
I want. That is your option #2 Barry. Thanks for the idea on the flush
trim
bit. That is what I will do.

I prefer this method: (Drew this up for you)
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...y/Edgetrim.jpg

Cool drawing! (BTW, you left your sunglasses on the table). Am I seeing a
table saw? I assume this is a technique for ripping thin strips??? If it is
a technique using the flush trim bit, I'm having some trouble figuring out
what I am looking at.

On Nov 16, 4:56 pm, B A R R Y wrote:
On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 15:49:48 -0600, "Leon"

wrote:

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same
thickness as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or would
you leave it oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the
plywood after gluing?

Actually I cut it slightly wider and sand the edge flush with the plywood.
Thin strips sand very quickly.

What he said, if the strips are really thin.

If the strips are tad thicker than normal to accommodate the shaping,
a router with a flush trim bit (bearing on the end away from the
shank) will also clean it up nicely. This is easier on a table with
a tall fence, or if you clamp a block to the side you're not cutting
to steady the router.


You must observe grain when doing that. The bit can catch and lift/
tear the banding.
Climb-cutting will make that a little better.
If you have a lot of that kind of work to do, put a board between the
fence and a dado blade. Elevate the dado to be flush with the top of
that board, then run your edge over the dado. I have done thousands of
feet of edging that way with fast reliable results. Then I used this
thing:
http://www.lamello.com/en/products/s...g-machine.html

r

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Nov 16, 4:56 pm, B A R R Y wrote:
On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 15:49:48 -0600, "Leon"

wrote:

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same
thickness as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or
would
you leave it oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match
the
plywood after gluing?

Actually I cut it slightly wider and sand the edge flush with the
plywood.
Thin strips sand very quickly.

What he said, if the strips are really thin.

If the strips are tad thicker than normal to accommodate the shaping,
a router with a flush trim bit (bearing on the end away from the
shank) will also clean it up nicely. This is easier on a table with
a tall fence, or if you clamp a block to the side you're not cutting
to steady the router.


You must observe grain when doing that. The bit can catch and lift/
tear the banding.
Climb-cutting will make that a little better.
If you have a lot of that kind of work to do, put a board between the
fence and a dado blade. Elevate the dado to be flush with the top of
that board, then run your edge over the dado. I have done thousands of
feet of edging that way with fast reliable results. Then I used this
thing:
http://www.lamello.com/en/products/s...g-machine.html

r
I just figured out what the picture was that you sent in another posting. It
was this technique with the dado blade. Very cool idea. Thanks. I don't have
that much to do but I have filed this technique away for future use.

On Nov 16, 3:41 pm, "Dick Snyder" wrote:
I am making a toy box for my grandson.
Hello Dick...
I clicked the url, so I am curious which box you choose to build?
It is my experience that those treasures that grandpa built live
through generations, so I know that price isn't the object, but that
solid wood box for $115 looks hard to beat against the price of good
plywood and the labor to edgeband...which begs the question, why not
go with solid wood?
I have had success with making solid wood edgebands at the same
specification as the roundover bit that I intend to use...such as
3/8s, if I want a full roundover on a three/quarter ply...trim and
shape at the same time...you run the router on the surface, rather
than the edge.
You can cut your bands wide, then overhang the router bit into the cut
by placing plystock behind the band...to run the router on...and
dropping the bit to run flush(+) with your workpiece...it's
easy...block sand to finish.

"DAClark" wrote in message
...
On Nov 16, 3:41 pm, "Dick Snyder" wrote:
I am making a toy box for my grandson.
Hello Dick...
I clicked the url, so I am curious which box you choose to build?
It is my experience that those treasures that grandpa built live
through generations, so I know that price isn't the object, but that
solid wood box for $115 looks hard to beat against the price of good
plywood and the labor to edgeband...which begs the question, why not
go with solid wood?
I have had success with making solid wood edgebands at the same
specification as the roundover bit that I intend to use...such as
3/8s, if I want a full roundover on a three/quarter ply...trim and
shape at the same time...you run the router on the surface, rather
than the edge.
You can cut your bands wide, then overhang the router bit into the cut
by placing plystock behind the band...to run the router on...and
dropping the bit to run flush(+) with your workpiece...it's
easy...block sand to finish.


There is little doubt that I could buy something cheaper than it will cost
me to make it but that is not why we do this stuff! Also, the furniture in
the child's room is all birch finished with a redwood stain. This wll match.
Good point on making edgebands at the same specification as the roundover
bit - thanks

This is the one place where I use a scraper. I am not much of a hand
tool guy but I make the bands about 1/16th over sized, glue them with
1/32 over and under and then scrape the down to the ply and finla hand
sane. The veneers now days are so thin on ply that sanding through is
a big risk.

Also, on square ply that will be banded 4 sides, I run the ply long in
one direction. Then I band across the properly cut direction but run
the bands about 1/4 in long.. After it dries I cut it to size on the
TS. You have to play some games on the fence side for the first cut
but that's easy to figure out. Then I band the other side, again
running them long, then flush cut with a japan saw and plane\sand out
the butt corners.

Think about where on your project you can run them long, trim and then
run over nad cut to a butt in the other. Much easier and more precise
then trying to glue them on at the right length.


On Nov 16, 1:41 pm, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:
I am making a toy box for my grandson. I am copying this commercially
available toy box.

http://www.itoyboxes.com/toy-boxes/t...ontoychest.cfm

It will be made from plywood but I have to do a lot of edge banding with
solid wood to be able to round the edges as much as I want. I have a power
planer. Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same thickness
as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or would you leave it
oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the plywood after
gluing?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
This is the one place where I use a scraper. I am not much of a hand
tool guy but I make the bands about 1/16th over sized, glue them with
1/32 over and under and then scrape the down to the ply and finla hand
sane. The veneers now days are so thin on ply that sanding through is
a big risk.

Also, on square ply that will be banded 4 sides, I run the ply long in
one direction. Then I band across the properly cut direction but run
the bands about 1/4 in long.. After it dries I cut it to size on the
TS. You have to play some games on the fence side for the first cut
but that's easy to figure out. Then I band the other side, again
running them long, then flush cut with a japan saw and plane\sand out
the butt corners.

Think about where on your project you can run them long, trim and then
run over nad cut to a butt in the other. Much easier and more precise
then trying to glue them on at the right length.


On Nov 16, 1:41 pm, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:
I am making a toy box for my grandson. I am copying this commercially
available toy box.

http://www.itoyboxes.com/toy-boxes/t...ontoychest.cfm

It will be made from plywood but I have to do a lot of edge banding with
solid wood to be able to round the edges as much as I want. I have a
power
planer. Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same
thickness
as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or would you leave
it
oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the plywood after
gluing?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

That middle paragraph of yours is a mouthful. I need to draw a sketch to see
what you are talking about.

Yeah, I do that sometimes.

I'm just saying do 2 parallel sides with hard bands running long off
each end. Then trim them and the ply at the same time to finish size.
Now you have two sides with perefectly flush cut edges. So the ply
neede to be oversized in the one diomension when you started so you
can trim it down to size and trim the bands at the same time.

Then band the other two sides, run long and trim flush just the bands.

I love to type.


On Nov 16, 5:22 pm, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message

...



This is the one place where I use a scraper. I am not much of a hand
tool guy but I make the bands about 1/16th over sized, glue them with
1/32 over and under and then scrape the down to the ply and finla hand
sane. The veneers now days are so thin on ply that sanding through is
a big risk.

Also, on square ply that will be banded 4 sides, I run the ply long in
one direction. Then I band across the properly cut direction but run
the bands about 1/4 in long.. After it dries I cut it to size on the
TS. You have to play some games on the fence side for the first cut
but that's easy to figure out. Then I band the other side, again
running them long, then flush cut with a japan saw and plane\sand out
the butt corners.

Think about where on your project you can run them long, trim and then
run over nad cut to a butt in the other. Much easier and more precise
then trying to glue them on at the right length.

On Nov 16, 1:41 pm, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:
I am making a toy box for my grandson. I am copying this commercially
available toy box.

http://www.itoyboxes.com/toy-boxes/t...ontoychest.cfm

It will be made from plywood but I have to do a lot of edge banding with
solid wood to be able to round the edges as much as I want. I have a
power
planer. Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same
thickness
as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or would you leave
it
oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the plywood after
gluing?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

That middle paragraph of yours is a mouthful. I need to draw a sketch to see
what you are talking about.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text

Got it.

Thanks.


"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
Yeah, I do that sometimes.

I'm just saying do 2 parallel sides with hard bands running long off
each end. Then trim them and the ply at the same time to finish size.
Now you have two sides with perefectly flush cut edges. So the ply
neede to be oversized in the one diomension when you started so you
can trim it down to size and trim the bands at the same time.

Then band the other two sides, run long and trim flush just the bands.

I love to type.


On Nov 16, 5:22 pm, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message

...



This is the one place where I use a scraper. I am not much of a hand
tool guy but I make the bands about 1/16th over sized, glue them with
1/32 over and under and then scrape the down to the ply and finla hand
sane. The veneers now days are so thin on ply that sanding through is
a big risk.

Also, on square ply that will be banded 4 sides, I run the ply long in
one direction. Then I band across the properly cut direction but run
the bands about 1/4 in long.. After it dries I cut it to size on the
TS. You have to play some games on the fence side for the first cut
but that's easy to figure out. Then I band the other side, again
running them long, then flush cut with a japan saw and plane\sand out
the butt corners.

Think about where on your project you can run them long, trim and then
run over nad cut to a butt in the other. Much easier and more precise
then trying to glue them on at the right length.

On Nov 16, 1:41 pm, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:
I am making a toy box for my grandson. I am copying this commercially
available toy box.

http://www.itoyboxes.com/toy-boxes/t...ontoychest.cfm

It will be made from plywood but I have to do a lot of edge banding
with
solid wood to be able to round the edges as much as I want. I have a
power
planer. Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same
thickness
as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or would you
leave
it
oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the plywood
after
gluing?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

That middle paragraph of yours is a mouthful. I need to draw a sketch to
see
what you are talking about.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text

On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 16:41:35 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:

I am making a toy box for my grandson. I am copying this commercially
available toy box.

http://www.itoyboxes.com/toy-boxes/t...ontoychest.cfm

It will be made from plywood but I have to do a lot of edge banding with
solid wood to be able to round the edges as much as I want. I have a power
planer. Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same thickness
as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or would you leave it
oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the plywood after
gluing?

TIA.

Dick Snyder


Make it 1/64" oversize. Be extra careful you don't blow through the
top ply layer when sanding.