After moving, I find the 90 degree tilt blade position is off (~ 89 deg)
with the blade in the stops. The manual refers to all screws and bolts as
screws and bolts, with no clue as to what their function is. Google is no
help. Can someone tell me the item numbers in the illustrated parts list
which correspond to the 90 and 45 degree stop settings?

Thanks.

TinWoodsmn

On Nov 4, 12:06 pm, "TinWoodsmn" wrote:
After moving, I find the 90 degree tilt blade position is off (~ 89 deg)
with the blade in the stops. The manual refers to all screws and bolts as
screws and bolts, with no clue as to what their function is. Google is no
help. Can someone tell me the item numbers in the illustrated parts list
which correspond to the 90 and 45 degree stop settings?

Thanks.

TinWoodsmn

I don't have an exploded view drawing of the PM66 so I can't tell you
which item numbers correspond to the blade tilt stops. You can just
peer down into the saw while tilting the blade to see where they are
as you tilt the blade.

Some people like using the stops. Personally, I prefer to back them
off so that the blade will tilt beyond 90 and 45. I find it easier to
check the angle of the blade than to trust the adjustment of the
stops. Feel free to send me email if you need more help.

Thanks,
Ed Bennett


http://www.ts-aligner.com
Home of the TS-Aligner

"TinWoodsmn" wrote in message
. ..
After moving, I find the 90 degree tilt blade position is off (~ 89 deg)
with the blade in the stops. The manual refers to all screws and bolts as
screws and bolts, with no clue as to what their function is. Google is no
help. Can someone tell me the item numbers in the illustrated parts list
which correspond to the 90 and 45 degree stop settings?

Thanks.

TinWoodsmn



Since you have just moved the saw I would suggest that you make sure that no
debris has fallen down onto the stop and perhaps prevent the blade from
being adjusted to on extreme or the other.
IMHO it does not seem likely that the saw would have lost its adjustment in
that regard.

"Ed Bennett" wrote in message
ups.com...



Some people like using the stops. Personally, I prefer to back them
off so that the blade will tilt beyond 90 and 45. I find it easier to
check the angle of the blade than to trust the adjustment of the
stops.

Ed, do you really find it easier to check the angle every time you tilt the
blade to 90 or 45 degrees over simply going to the stops? Or, do you find
that it is more accurate to check each time and not trust the stops on your
saw? ;~)

GarageWoodworks wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message
news
"Ed Bennett" wrote in message
ups.com...


Some people like using the stops. Personally, I prefer to back them
off so that the blade will tilt beyond 90 and 45. I find it easier to
check the angle of the blade than to trust the adjustment of the
stops.
Ed, do you really find it easier to check the angle every time you tilt
the blade to 90 or 45 degrees over simply going to the stops? Or, do you
find that it is more accurate to check each time and not trust the stops
on your saw? ;~)


I can't speak for Ed, but for me it is NOT an issue of 'what is easier', but
rather an issue of what is better/more reliable.

I'm not sure about your saw Leon, but my stops are prone to picking up saw
dust. I never rely on my stops. Mine are backed off like Ed described and
I check for alignment before and during project sessions.

I have never had to readjust the stops on my PM66, except for when I
have moved it and done a complete alignment. It has never been a problem.

It should be pretty easy to figure out how to do it, but if the OP still
needs it, I do have the original manual around and will do what I can to
help. However, it seems to me that about 3 or 4 years ago I was able to
dl one from the website. Perhaps it is no longer there.

Harvey

Harvey

"GarageWoodworks" .@. wrote in message
...

I can't speak for Ed, but for me it is NOT an issue of 'what is easier',
but rather an issue of what is better/more reliable.


Which is what I was getting at, easier is not necessarily what gets it done
on all equipment. I could hrdly see how taking extra steps would be easier
than not.


I'm not sure about your saw Leon, but my stops are prone to picking up saw
dust. I never rely on my stops. Mine are backed off like Ed described
and I check for alignment before and during project sessions.


My old saw had so much flex in the side panel that you could change the
bevel angle by pushing on the side of the saw. I no longer have that
problem, I upgraded to a saw that produces repeatable results with it's
fixed settings, thank goodness. ;~)

"eclipsme" wrote in message
...

I have never had to readjust the stops on my PM66, except for when I have
moved it and done a complete alignment. It has never been a problem.

Nor should it be, that's why many of us go with the more expensive less
fussy equipment.

Yep, that's the baby!

BTW - I hate the splitter that came with the saw. Has anybody designed a
better one?

Harvey

JeffB wrote:
The manual can be found here - adjustments on pg 12...
http://power.forest.net/wmhtool/PMWo...0460231-66.pdf

--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email


TinWoodsmn wrote:
After moving, I find the 90 degree tilt blade position is off (~ 89 deg)
with the blade in the stops. The manual refers to all screws and bolts as
screws and bolts, with no clue as to what their function is. Google is no
help. Can someone tell me the item numbers in the illustrated parts list
which correspond to the 90 and 45 degree stop settings?

Thanks.

TinWoodsmn

"Leon" wrote in message

I upgraded to a saw that produces repeatable results with it's
fixed settings, thank goodness. ;~)

The stops on my Unisaw have always been repeatable to within 1/10 of a
degree (measured with a digital angle gauge that has proven accurate enough
for woodshop purposes) even after hard use and between cleanings.

Nonetheless I always verify after making any change to blade tilt.

What I like about relying on stops, with verification, is that it more or
less forces that old principle of always approaching a mechanical setting
from the same direction to mitigate slack in the mechanism.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/4/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message

I upgraded to a saw that produces repeatable results with it's
fixed settings, thank goodness. ;~)

The stops on my Unisaw have always been repeatable to within 1/10 of a
degree (measured with a digital angle gauge that has proven accurate
enough
for woodshop purposes) even after hard use and between cleanings.

Nonetheless I always verify after making any change to blade tilt.

What I like about relying on stops, with verification, is that it more or
less forces that old principle of always approaching a mechanical setting
from the same direction to mitigate slack in the mechanism.


I verify by checking the fit. ;~)

"Leon" wrote

I verify by checking the fit. ;~)

Me too ... if my Starret fits snug to the blade, we're good to go.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/4/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

I put an Excalibur splitter on mine. I love the quick-release
feature. It did take a bit of work to fit it, because it requires you
to cut off a cylindrical protrusion from beneath the top casting.
Also, there is apparentlly quite a bit of variation from saw to saw
(talking PM66, here) because my splitter mount bracket did not fit
properly out of the box. I called them, and after taking a couple of
measurements, they sent me (overnight) a replacement that fit
perfectly.

I'm not affiliated with them in any way. I'm just a very satisfied
customer.

Regards,
John.


On Nov 5, 6:07 am, eclipsme wrote:
Yep, that's the baby!

BTW - I hate the splitter that came with the saw. Has anybody designed a
better one?

Harvey



JeffB wrote:
The manual can be found here - adjustments on pg 12...
http://power.forest.net/wmhtool/PMWo...anuals/M-04602...

--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email

TinWoodsmn wrote:
After moving, I find the 90 degree tilt blade position is off (~ 89 deg)
with the blade in the stops. The manual refers to all screws and bolts as
screws and bolts, with no clue as to what their function is. Google is no
help. Can someone tell me the item numbers in the illustrated parts list
which correspond to the 90 and 45 degree stop settings?

Thanks.

TinWoodsmn- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

On Nov 4, 5:13 pm, "Leon" wrote:
Ed, do you really find it easier to check the angle every time you tilt the
blade to 90 or 45 degrees over simply going to the stops? Or, do you find
that it is more accurate to check each time and not trust the stops on your
saw? ;~)

I find it easier and more accurate. For me, there's nothing easy
about trusting the stops and then finding out sometime later that they
were inaccurate. After a couple of decades, I have learned that it's
always easier to do something right the first time. Certainly, there
are those situations where I might not need the accuracy (bird houses,
picnic tables, pukey ducks, etc.) and I can just use the scale on the
machine.

Ed Bennett


http://www.ts-aligner.com
Home of the TS-Aligner

On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 00:48:59 -0800, JeffB
wrote:

The manual can be found here - adjustments on pg 12...
http://power.forest.net/wmhtool/PMWo...0460231-66.pdf

Jeff--Thanks for this link!!!

It does look easier to put on and take off, but I would really like one
of those that attach just behind the blade and go up and down with it.
There's a word for it, but I can't think of it.

Harvey
the_tool_man wrote:
I put an Excalibur splitter on mine. I love the quick-release
feature. It did take a bit of work to fit it, because it requires you
to cut off a cylindrical protrusion from beneath the top casting.
Also, there is apparentlly quite a bit of variation from saw to saw
(talking PM66, here) because my splitter mount bracket did not fit
properly out of the box. I called them, and after taking a couple of
measurements, they sent me (overnight) a replacement that fit
perfectly.

I'm not affiliated with them in any way. I'm just a very satisfied
customer.

Regards,
John.


On Nov 5, 6:07 am, eclipsme wrote:
Yep, that's the baby!

BTW - I hate the splitter that came with the saw. Has anybody designed a
better one?

Harvey



JeffB wrote:
The manual can be found here - adjustments on pg 12...
http://power.forest.net/wmhtool/PMWo...anuals/M-04602...
--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email
TinWoodsmn wrote:
After moving, I find the 90 degree tilt blade position is off (~ 89 deg)
with the blade in the stops. The manual refers to all screws and bolts as
screws and bolts, with no clue as to what their function is. Google is no
help. Can someone tell me the item numbers in the illustrated parts list
which correspond to the 90 and 45 degree stop settings?
Thanks.
TinWoodsmn- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -

"eclipsme" wrote in message
.. .
It does look easier to put on and take off, but I would really like one of
those that attach just behind the blade and go up and down with it.
There's a word for it, but I can't think of it.


Riving Knife

Leon wrote:
"eclipsme" wrote in message
.. .
It does look easier to put on and take off, but I would really like one of
those that attach just behind the blade and go up and down with it.
There's a word for it, but I can't think of it.


Riving Knife


Thanks, Leon. Are you aware of any good ones for the PM66? It seems that
many say you can not mount one to this saw. I took a quick look and see
that there is a bolt behind the blade and seems to be attached to the
trunnions. Can't that be used?

Harvey

"eclipsme" wrote in message
.. .
Leon wrote:
"eclipsme" wrote in message
.. .
It does look easier to put on and take off, but I would really like one
of those that attach just behind the blade and go up and down with it.
There's a word for it, but I can't think of it.


Riving Knife
Thanks, Leon. Are you aware of any good ones for the PM66? It seems that
many say you can not mount one to this saw. I took a quick look and see
that there is a bolt behind the blade and seems to be attached to the
trunnions. Can't that be used?

Harvey

No sir, I am not a ware of "any" that are aftermarket, but if you find one,
letme know too.

You're thinking of a riving knife.

I, too, wanted a riving knife. A search of the aftermarket revealed
no such thing available for a PM66. I looked into building one of my
own, but I couldn't figure out any way to make one rigid enough to be
effective, that would fit in the space available within the saw. The
arbor bearings are pressed into a rough casting with no flat mounting
surface anywhere near the blade. Also, the back of the blade comes
very close to the rear trunnion as it retracts, leaving very little
room for any sort of riving knife. The design I came up with would
have interfered with the table insert for beveled cuts, so I gave up
at that point.

In practice, the removable splitter works the same as long as you
aren't making a blind cut. I don't know about other saws, but on a
PM66, because of the design of the blade height mechanism, the back
edge of the blade is close to the splitter throughout most of it's
adjustment above the table surface, so the splitter comes into play
right after the start of the cut. For blind cuts, at least for the
ones I do, they are either very shallow, and the risk of the wood
binding on the blade is small, or they are made with a dado blade, in
which case a riving knife would be ineffective. Again, to me, what
makes it effective is the ease with which it can be removed and
replaced. This means I will use it every time, rather than hanging it
on the wall or something.

FWIW, the Excalibur comes with anti-kickback pawls that are very
effective. I also use a pair of board buddies and an assortment of
push sticks to minimize the possibility of kickback and the
consequences thereof.

Regards,
John.

On Nov 5, 5:35 pm, eclipsme wrote:
It does look easier to put on and take off, but I would really like one
of those that attach just behind the blade and go up and down with it.
There's a word for it, but I can't think of it.

Harvey