The latest post I found on Google was 2003 so, I'm wondering if
there's any update to the saw blade cleaning process for blades used
in general wood cutting in the shop. I generally use a Forrest
Woodworker II and it can get really cruded up after a while. Most of
what I cut is cherry and a variety of lubmer yard softwoods.

Many solvents (both petroleum based and "water" based) work but I'm
wondering if there's one (or a technique) that works better than
others.

Thanks

wrote in message
...
The latest post I found on Google was 2003 so, I'm wondering if
there's any update to the saw blade cleaning process for blades used
in general wood cutting in the shop. I generally use a Forrest
Woodworker II and it can get really cruded up after a while. Most of
what I cut is cherry and a variety of lubmer yard softwoods.

Many solvents (both petroleum based and "water" based) work but I'm
wondering if there's one (or a technique) that works better than
others.

Thanks

CMT Formula 2050 is about as easy as it gets. Environmentally safe also.

Subject

A soak blade in Simple Green using a plastic pan large enough to allow
the blade to lay flat.

Soak blade overnight then scrub teeth with a tooth brush.

Blot dry with paper towels.

Lew

Yes, even right out of the spray bottle Simple Green is very effective and
economical.

Tim

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
Subject

A soak blade in Simple Green using a plastic pan large enough to allow
the blade to lay flat.

Soak blade overnight then scrub teeth with a tooth brush.

Blot dry with paper towels.

Lew

I use an old plastic oil pan and a toothbrush. I have used oven
cleaner, Simple Green, 409, and paint thinner. The oven cleaner seems
to be the most effective, although the most caustic.

A soak blade in Simple Green using a plastic pan large enough to allow the blade to lay flat.

I find the lid of a 5 gallon bucket is just the right size for a 10"
blade.

Joel

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
Subject

A soak blade in Simple Green using a plastic pan large enough to allow
the blade to lay flat.

Soak blade overnight then scrub teeth with a tooth brush.

Blot dry with paper towels.

Lew




If soaking over night and still having to scrub with a tooth brush, I wonder
if just soaking in water would have the same effect. CMT Formula 2050 needs
a 15 second soak after spraying and a wipe with a paper towel.

On Thu, 4 Oct 2007 19:27:43 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:

CMT Formula 2050 needs
a 15 second soak after spraying and a wipe with a paper towel.

Great stuff, seriously...

I usually spray my regular blades when I remove them, say for ripping
and dadoing, and they're spotless by the time I'm ready to reinstall
them.

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

In article , wrote:
The latest post I found on Google was 2003 so, I'm wondering if
there's any update to the saw blade cleaning process for blades used
in general wood cutting in the shop. I generally use a Forrest
Woodworker II and it can get really cruded up after a while. Most of
what I cut is cherry and a variety of lubmer yard softwoods.

Many solvents (both petroleum based and "water" based) work but I'm
wondering if there's one (or a technique) that works better than
others.

Washing soda (not baking soda). Found in the laundry aisle of most grocery
stores. Mix 1/4 cup in a quart of warm water in a shallow pan. Lay the blade
down in it. Five minutes later, pick it up -- most of the crud will fall off
by itself. What doesn't fall off, usually wipes or rinses off. Scrubbing is
rarely necessary. Rinse blade clean, wipe dry, reinstall.

Quick, easy, cheap (3.5-lb box is less than $2.50), and environmentally
benign -- what more can you ask?

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

skreiv:
The latest post I found on Google was 2003 so, I'm wondering if
there's any update to the saw blade cleaning process for blades used
in general wood cutting in the shop. I generally use a Forrest
Woodworker II and it can get really cruded up after a while. Most of
what I cut is cherry and a variety of lubmer yard softwoods.

Many solvents (both petroleum based and "water" based) work but I'm
wondering if there's one (or a technique) that works better than
others.

You can visit The Wood Whisperer and have a look at this podcast:
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-...-dust-settles/

In article , David Starr wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:

Washing soda (not baking soda). Found in the laundry aisle of most grocery
stores. Mix 1/4 cup in a quart of warm water in a shallow pan. Lay the blade
down in it. Five minutes later, pick it up -- most of the crud will fall off
by itself. What doesn't fall off, usually wipes or rinses off. Scrubbing is
rarely necessary. Rinse blade clean, wipe dry, reinstall.

Quick, easy, cheap (3.5-lb box is less than $2.50), and environmentally
benign -- what more can you ask?

I tried washing soda (they call it Borax around here) and it works
well. Got all the pitch off the sawblades and router bits.

Washing soda and borax are not the same thing; whoever told you they were is
mistaken. Washing soda is sodium carbonate; borax is sodium tetraborate; and
if you think the borax worked well, just wait til you try washing soda. :-)

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On Oct 4, 6:39 pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:

Washing soda (not baking soda). Found in the laundry aisle of most grocery
stores. Mix 1/4 cup in a quart of warm water in a shallow pan.

Dang! I just use a half teaspoon of lye and a drop of
detergent in a quart of water. You shouldn't need two
ounces of cleaner to get off a hundredth-ounce of gook.

After a few minutes soak, work the teeth with a toothbrush.
Rinse, blot, and give the blade a few minutes on a stove or hotplate
to be sure it won't rust.

In article . com, whit3rd wrote:
On Oct 4, 6:39 pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:

Washing soda (not baking soda). Found in the laundry aisle of most grocery
stores. Mix 1/4 cup in a quart of warm water in a shallow pan.

Dang! I just use a half teaspoon of lye and a drop of
detergent in a quart of water. You shouldn't need two
ounces of cleaner to get off a hundredth-ounce of gook.

After a few minutes soak, work the teeth with a toothbrush.
Rinse, blot, and give the blade a few minutes on a stove or hotplate
to be sure it won't rust.

Suit yourself. Washing soda is cheaper than lye, and much more readily
obtainable (I'm guessing you haven't tried to buy lye lately). And I have
never needed to use a toothbrush on the saw blade when using washing soda. Of
course, if you prefer to use a more expensive, more caustic alternative that's
harder to find, and requires scrubbing afterward, be my guest. It's your time
and your money. :-)

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article ,
David Starr wrote:

I tried washing soda (they call it Borax around here) and it works
well. Got all the pitch off the sawblades and router bits.


David Starr

I've heard that it works but just FYI, borax and washing soda are NOT the same.
Washing soda is sodium carbonate (Na2CO3) and the laundry additive
commonly called borax (Who remembers Ronald Reagan pitching "20 Mule
Team Borax" on "Death Valley Days"?) is IIRC sodium perborate, NaBO3. I'm
not certain on that borax compund composition.


--
There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On Oct 9, 1:41 pm, (Larry W) wrote:
In article ,
David Starr wrote:



I tried washing soda (they call it Borax around here) and it works
well. Got all the pitch off the sawblades and router bits.

David Starr

I've heard that it works but just FYI, borax and washing soda are NOT the same.
Washing soda is sodium carbonate (Na2CO3) and the laundry additive
commonly called borax (Who remembers Ronald Reagan pitching "20 Mule
Team Borax" on "Death Valley Days"?) is IIRC sodium perborate, NaBO3. I'm
not certain on that borax compund composition.

--
There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

Never used anything but mineral spirits or turpentine........even
denatured alchohol works fine.