I found some curved hinges on Rockler for a tapering jig. But I am not sure
if I need the L or R-hand hinge - or maybe it doesn't matter.

Does anyone know if it matters, and which is the correct one?

Thanks.

"Buck Turgidson" wrote in message
I found some curved hinges on Rockler for a tapering jig. But I am not
sure
if I need the L or R-hand hinge - or maybe it doesn't matter.

Does anyone know if it matters, and which is the correct one?

You provide no link, IME, it does matter with these hinges, depending which
side of the blade you cut your tapers/mount your table saw jigs.

That said, after trying what I think your talking about, I finally came upon
a taper jig that is easy to make and a lot more user friendly than those
hinges:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm

Scroll on down to "taper jig" ... if you need more information, just holler.
I think a couple of folks around here use the same principle on their jigs
and may be able to give additional input.


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/30/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Sep 30, 1:44 pm, "Swingman" wrote:
"Buck Turgidson" wrote in message
I found some curved hinges on Rockler for a tapering jig. But I am not
sure
if I need the L or R-hand hinge - or maybe it doesn't matter.

Does anyone know if it matters, and which is the correct one?

You provide no link, IME, it does matter with these hinges, depending which
side of the blade you cut your tapers/mount your table saw jigs.

That said, after trying what I think your talking about, I finally came upon
a taper jig that is easy to make and a lot more user friendly than those
hinges:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm

Scroll on down to "taper jig" ... if you need more information, just holler.
I think a couple of folks around here use the same principle on their jigs
and may be able to give additional input.

Piece of scrap 1/2 BC ply, approx 1 ft x 2 ft. 3/4" rail glued to
the
bottom. Tack a fence and stop block to the topside to hold a
workpiece at whatever desired angle and width. Simple, cheap.

Restricted to tapers in sheet material that don't require holddowns.
Those are easily made from hardwood cutoffs and blocks.

Scroll on down to "taper jig" ... if you need more information, just
holler.
I think a couple of folks around here use the same principle on their jigs
and may be able to give additional input.


Thanks, that's a nice jig. Probably more than what I need. I don't even
have a use for a jig right now, just kind of "between jobs" so to speak, so
I thought I'd make one.

I think I figured out by comparing grainly online photos that I need the
right-hand hinges.

In article ,
"Swingman" wrote:

"Buck Turgidson" wrote in message
I found some curved hinges on Rockler for a tapering jig. But I am not
sure
if I need the L or R-hand hinge - or maybe it doesn't matter.

Does anyone know if it matters, and which is the correct one?

You provide no link, IME, it does matter with these hinges, depending which
side of the blade you cut your tapers/mount your table saw jigs.

That said, after trying what I think your talking about, I finally came upon
a taper jig that is easy to make and a lot more user friendly than those
hinges:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm

Scroll on down to "taper jig" ... if you need more information, just holler.
I think a couple of folks around here use the same principle on their jigs
and may be able to give additional input.

Swingman,

Your jig sure looks safer than the typical commercial hinged aluminum
jig or its home-brew copy. Granted, the blade should force the work
against the peg on those jigs so it stays in place, but it just doesn't
look secure. The older I get the more I appreciate having my work held
in place so I can keep my precious fingers away from trouble.

PDX David

"Jane & David"

Swingman,

Your jig sure looks safer than the typical commercial hinged aluminum
jig or its home-brew copy. Granted, the blade should force the work
against the peg on those jigs so it stays in place, but it just doesn't
look secure. The older I get the more I appreciate having my work held
in place so I can keep my precious fingers away from trouble.

Oh Man ... you hit the nail on the head!!

That is what I _absolutely_ hated about those $19.95 aluminum jobbies. I
used to build a lot of tables, and it seems that they all had tapered legs.

Every time I used one of those aluminum wonders I had to work up the nerve
between each leg, on a four legged table, just to do the next one.

When I got through with that last leg the relief was palpable. It was all
smiles, rainbows, and sunshine ... until the next time.

This jig is a sled (runner in the miter gage slot), and just _feels_ so much
safer that it is worth a thousand times more in peace of mind than the
little bit of time it took to make it.

Highly recommended!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/30/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)