For reasons to match existing color edge grained Fir in our house I want to
first "color" our custom made 40" fir front entrance door with boiled
linseed oil to get to the color i want and then put multiple coats of marine
grade spar varnish for protection. Is there a compatability issue? I'm in
the Northwest so the spar varnish is really a neccesity. Thanks

"Doug" wrote in news:AtyFi.33912$Pd4.29891@edtnps82:

For reasons to match existing color edge grained Fir in our house I
want to first "color" our custom made 40" fir front entrance door with
boiled linseed oil to get to the color i want and then put multiple
coats of marine grade spar varnish for protection. Is there a
compatability issue? I'm in the Northwest so the spar varnish is
really a neccesity. Thanks


Either wipe the BLO very thin, or make sure that it's had several days to
cure. I wouldn't try to do oil then spar in the same day under any
circumstance. But that's me.

Spar is a good finish, and great for an outdoor piece. I've wiped it on
successfully, cutting it with maybe 30% VMP Naptha. That, I can get two
coats on in a normal day. Which is good, because you're going to want at
least 4 coats, and maybe 6 or eight. Note that the spar will give you some
coloring, ambering, too, so calculate that into your process. And the Doug
fir will darken nicely with exposure to light.

BTW, you should likely ignore the part on the varnish can about 'do not
thin'. My limited experience tells me that's to satisfy the regulators
about the VOCs and the like. Unthinned, the application is much more work,
and you're going to use that much thinner in cleaning your brushes. The
naptha makes it dry/cure more quickly, and the old rag used gets dried and
disposed of when you're finished.

Enjoy.

Patriarch

On Sep 11, 11:27 am, "Doug" wrote:
For reasons to match existing color edge grained Fir in our house I want to
first "color" our custom made 40" fir front entrance door with boiled
linseed oil to get to the color i want and then put multiple coats of marine
grade spar varnish for protection. Is there a compatability issue? I'm in
the Northwest so the spar varnish is really a neccesity. Thanks

One of my basic finishes is BLO and spar, mixed and thinned.
Haven't had a problem in ten years, and it only looks better as it
ages. You'll probably want to let the BLO cure for a week if you're
applying varnish as a top coat, just to give the varnish a dry
footing.
I suspect the dryers in the varnish will help any remaining uncured
oil to cure.

Spar gives you a high gloss, and since it's a high oil percentage
varnish, it moves with the wood instead of cracking, unlike a brittle
furniture-grade short oil phenolic. Sounds like the right choice.

What's the procedure for after the final coat? I've been lightly sanding
with 400 grit between coats to clear off any nubs ect. Steel wool and wax?
Wax alone? Want it as smooth as a babies b......
"Doug" wrote in message
news:AtyFi.33912$Pd4.29891@edtnps82...
For reasons to match existing color edge grained Fir in our house I want
to first "color" our custom made 40" fir front entrance door with boiled
linseed oil to get to the color i want and then put multiple coats of
marine grade spar varnish for protection. Is there a compatability issue?
I'm in the Northwest so the spar varnish is really a neccesity. Thanks

On Sep 14, 10:57 am, "mcgyver" wrote:
What's the procedure for after the final coat? I've been lightly sanding
with 400 grit between coats to clear off any nubs ect. Steel wool and wax?
Wax alone? Want it as smooth as a babies b......"Doug" wrote in message

Absolutely wait a month before doing anything to the top coat.
Varnishes
cure slowly. Rubbing out too early can tear through.

4-0 steel wool and wax will bring up a nice satin sheen. Applying an
extra coat of varnish will give insurance against cutting through.

"mcgyver" wrote ...
What's the procedure for after the final coat? I've been lightly sanding
with 400 grit between coats to clear off any nubs ect. Steel wool and wax?
Wax alone? Want it as smooth as a babies b......
SNIP

Mc . . .
For on-deck 'brightwork' the typical norm is 6 coats . . . at LEAST. MY
methodology is to use a 'short oil' varnish and start between coat sanding
with 220 {for the first two coats, which are thinned 50 percent and 25
percent, respectively}, then 320, 400, 600. Then Rubbing Compound, and a
couple of coats of a good wax.

It's the same procedure I use on Joanne's Maple topped kitchen cabinet. I
did the same over stain for the window shelf - only with 3 coats of Clear
poly, with 320, 400, & 600.

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop