I'm thinking about springing for a Domino and was brainstorming about
how to back cut the shoulders of what would normally be the fixed
tenon. I'm not opposed to hand work, but I'm wondering if there isn't
some way to really speed up the process. The most promising thought
I've had so far is a custom router bit that uses the mortise itself as
a guide for a tiny bearing or pin on the end of it. The cutter itself
would shave ~1/32" off the surrounding shoulder(s?), and have a
cutting radius of appropriate size for the joint at hand. Then I
could stand my workpiece (let's assume it's a rail) on end, maybe with
a stabilizing colllar to hold it square to the table, place it over
the pin/bearing, and then jack the router up by a 32nd and move the
rail around the pin to fully back cut the shoulder.

Just a thought.

JP

Cut the whole thing with a router.
See examples: http://patwarner.com/images/index_tenon.jpg
The shoulders of these (tenons) are all in the same plane.
You need a platform jig and some semi-special rabbet cutters to do it,
no heroics.
*************************





some way to really speed up the process. The most promising thought
I've had so far is a custom router bit that uses the mortise itself as
a guide for a tiny bearing or pin on the end of it. The cutter itself
would shave ~1/32" off the surrounding shoulder(s?), and have a
cutting radius of appropriate size for the joint at hand. Then I
could stand my workpiece (let's assume it's a rail) on end, maybe with
a stabilizing colllar to hold it square to the table, place it over
the pin/bearing, and then jack the router up by a 32nd and move the
rail around the pin to fully back cut the shoulder.

Just a thought.

JP

On Sep 8, 10:00 am, wrote:
Cut the whole thing with a router.
See examples:http://patwarner.com/images/index_tenon.jpg
The shoulders of these (tenons) are all in the same plane.
You need a platform jig and some semi-special rabbet cutters to do it,
no heroics.

Are those shoulders slightly back-beveled? What's a platform jig and
what special cutters do you need? Do you sell these? I've got a
couple of your products and have been very satisfied.

JP


some way to really speed up the process. The most promising thought
I've had so far is a custom router bit that uses the mortise itself as
a guide for a tiny bearing or pin on the end of it. The cutter itself
would shave ~1/32" off the surrounding shoulder(s?), and have a
cutting radius of appropriate size for the joint at hand. Then I
could stand my workpiece (let's assume it's a rail) on end, maybe with
a stabilizing colllar to hold it square to the table, place it over
the pin/bearing, and then jack the router up by a 32nd and move the
rail around the pin to fully back cut the shoulder.

Just a thought.

JP- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No back bevel, shoulders are square to the tenon. On insertion, all
shoulders are snug against the stick with the mortice, no gaps, an air
tight connection.
Product & cutters: Yes, see the http://patwarner.com/tenonmaker.html
link.
**************************

On Sep 8, 4:36 pm, Jay Pique wrote:
On Sep 8, 10:00 am, wrote:

Cut the whole thing with a router.
See examples:http://patwarner.com/images/index_tenon.jpg
The shoulders of these (tenons) are all in the same plane.
You need a platform jig and some semi-special rabbet cutters to do it,
no heroics.

Are those shoulders slightly back-beveled? What's a platform jig and
what special cutters do you need? Do you sell these? I've got a
couple of your products and have been very satisfied.

JP



some way to really speed up the process. The most promising thought
I've had so far is a custom router bit that uses the mortise itself as
a guide for a tiny bearing or pin on the end of it. The cutter itself
would shave ~1/32" off the surrounding shoulder(s?), and have a
cutting radius of appropriate size for the joint at hand. Then I
could stand my workpiece (let's assume it's a rail)







on end, maybe with
a stabilizing colllar to hold it square to the table,
place it over
the pin/bearing, and then jack the router up by a 32nd and move the
rail around the pin to fully back cut the shoulder.
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