What is the best way to cut the shoulders on a tenon cut at an angle?

Is it easiest to tilt the blade on the TS to the angle used and nibble? Is
there a better way other than cutting them by hand?
__________
/___
/___/
________/


Thanks

Jig (at the link), not terribly difficult to make, is so fixtured to
allow its fence to swing through 30 degrees of arc. That is one router
solution.
http://www.patwarner.com/tenonmaker.html
__________________________________________________ ______
stoutman wrote:
What is the best way to cut the shoulders on a tenon cut at an angle?

Is it easiest to tilt the blade on the TS to the angle used and
nibble? Is
there a better way other than cutting them by hand?
__________
/___
/___/
________/


Thanks

Thanks Pat. I'm gonna try and make that jig and give it a go.

Thanks again!




wrote in message
ups.com...
Jig (at the link), not terribly difficult to make, is so fixtured to
allow its fence to swing through 30 degrees of arc. That is one router
solution.
http://www.patwarner.com/tenonmaker.html
__________________________________________________ ______
stoutman wrote:
What is the best way to cut the shoulders on a tenon cut at an angle?

Is it easiest to tilt the blade on the TS to the angle used and
nibble? Is
there a better way other than cutting them by hand?
__________
/___
/___/
________/


Thanks

On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 23:33:57 GMT, "stoutman" wrote:

What is the best way to cut the shoulders on a tenon cut at an angle?

Is it easiest to tilt the blade on the TS to the angle used and nibble? Is
there a better way other than cutting them by hand?
__________
/___
/___/
________/


Pat's jig looks pretty good to me. I've done this on the TS and it is
a real mess.

--
"We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and bring something to kill"

Tim Douglass

http://www.DouglassClan.com

Tenoning jig is probably the best solution here

John

On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 23:33:57 GMT, "stoutman" wrote:

What is the best way to cut the shoulders on a tenon cut at an angle?

Is it easiest to tilt the blade on the TS to the angle used and nibble? Is
there a better way other than cutting them by hand?
__________
/___
/___/
________/


Thanks

stoutman wrote:
What is the best way to cut the shoulders on a tenon cut at an angle?

Is it easiest to tilt the blade on the TS to the angle used and nibble? Is
there a better way other than cutting them by hand?
__________
/___
/___/
________/


Thanks



I have the Tenoning Jig by General -- picked it up at the Durham
woodshow a couple of years ago.. It has an angle adjustment. It seems to
work fine. Just used it to make the joints for a jewelbox top -- fine
adjustments can be made quite easily.

It's a little heavy, the weight lifting course is extra.


--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek

How about by hand?

"stoutman" wrote in message
om...
What is the best way to cut the shoulders on a tenon cut at an angle?

Is it easiest to tilt the blade on the TS to the angle used and nibble?
Is there a better way other than cutting them by hand?
__________
/___
/___/
________/


Thanks

Maybe for the cheeks, but shoulders?


"John" wrote in message
...
Tenoning jig is probably the best solution here

John

On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 23:33:57 GMT, "stoutman" wrote:

What is the best way to cut the shoulders on a tenon cut at an angle?

Is it easiest to tilt the blade on the TS to the angle used and nibble?
Is
there a better way other than cutting them by hand?
__________
/___
/___/
________/


Thanks

Bandsaw, or maybe tablesaw with miter gauge and nibble away the
shoulders (or even setup a dado blade on the table saw and make the
shoulders in a single pass - assuming the tenon is not so long as to
require multiple passes even with the dado set)?? Or (shudder) a
handsaw and some manual labor??

Or, spend the big bucks and get something like the Leigh FMT?

John

On Tue, 05 Apr 2005 22:25:39 GMT, "stoutman" wrote:

Maybe for the cheeks, but shoulders?


"John" wrote in message
.. .
Tenoning jig is probably the best solution here

John

On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 23:33:57 GMT, "stoutman" wrote:

What is the best way to cut the shoulders on a tenon cut at an angle?

Is it easiest to tilt the blade on the TS to the angle used and nibble?
Is
there a better way other than cutting them by hand?
__________
/___
/___/
________/


Thanks

Because I am cutting tenons at an angle, a dado blade would not work for
shoulders. Unless you tilt the blade to the same angle as the tenon. My
questions is "is there another way to cut them other than by hand". I
could see accuracy problems (getting the blade tilted to the same angle as
the tenon angle) if you tilt the blade.

By hand is probably the best way.

Unfortunately, I don't have "big bucks"



"John" wrote in message
...
Bandsaw, or maybe tablesaw with miter gauge and nibble away the
shoulders (or even setup a dado blade on the table saw and make the
shoulders in a single pass - assuming the tenon is not so long as to
require multiple passes even with the dado set)?? Or (shudder) a
handsaw and some manual labor??

Or, spend the big bucks and get something like the Leigh FMT?

John

On Tue, 05 Apr 2005 22:25:39 GMT, "stoutman" wrote:

Maybe for the cheeks, but shoulders?


"John" wrote in message
. ..
Tenoning jig is probably the best solution here

John

On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 23:33:57 GMT, "stoutman" wrote:

What is the best way to cut the shoulders on a tenon cut at an angle?

Is it easiest to tilt the blade on the TS to the angle used and nibble?
Is
there a better way other than cutting them by hand?
__________
/___
/___/
________/


Thanks

Back to basics.

The register of the shoulders against the mortised piece is the critical
point of the joint. The rest is to keep it from racking out of register.

So make the long shoulder cuts with the most accurate means - the tablesaw
with a sled, or a miter gage with sandpaper or a hold-down. You can use
your cutoff sled with a wedge to ensure left/right concurrence.

Now to the tenon saw, where you'll cut parallel but proud of the tablesaw
cheeks to allow you to trim with a sharp chisel.

If you've got one of those zero-set saws, you might be able to cut closer,
but it's too easy to trim, and too ugly to see torn grain in the joint to
tempt me.

"stoutman" wrote in message
om...
Because I am cutting tenons at an angle, a dado blade would not work for
shoulders. Unless you tilt the blade to the same angle as the tenon. My
questions is "is there another way to cut them other than by hand". I
could see accuracy problems (getting the blade tilted to the same angle as
the tenon angle) if you tilt the blade.

By hand is probably the best way.

Unfortunately, I don't have "big bucks"

__________
/___------------
/___/
________/ ------------


the shorter of the shoulders is where i am having trouble. Unless I tilt
the blade the tenon is ruined. The blade must be tilted in two different
directions or the tenon must be flipped end for end to make the cuts. how
do most be people cut them? By hand or with a router seem to be the best
answers so far.





"George" george@least wrote in message
...
Back to basics.

The register of the shoulders against the mortised piece is the critical
point of the joint. The rest is to keep it from racking out of register.

So make the long shoulder cuts with the most accurate means - the tablesaw
with a sled, or a miter gage with sandpaper or a hold-down. You can use
your cutoff sled with a wedge to ensure left/right concurrence.

Now to the tenon saw, where you'll cut parallel but proud of the tablesaw
cheeks to allow you to trim with a sharp chisel.

If you've got one of those zero-set saws, you might be able to cut closer,
but it's too easy to trim, and too ugly to see torn grain in the joint to
tempt me.

"stoutman" wrote in message
om...
Because I am cutting tenons at an angle, a dado blade would not work for
shoulders. Unless you tilt the blade to the same angle as the tenon. My
questions is "is there another way to cut them other than by hand". I
could see accuracy problems (getting the blade tilted to the same angle
as
the tenon angle) if you tilt the blade.

By hand is probably the best way.

Unfortunately, I don't have "big bucks"

The shorter is easily removed by hand sawing and trimming, as I suggested.

Amazing how stuff crops up, though. He does both ways - vertical and
horizontal - with wedges.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00143.asp

Incidentally, you do know that a wedge on the right, moved to the left,
guarantees the same angle, and the blade can stay the same?

"stoutman" wrote in message
om...
__________
/___------------
/___/
________/ ------------


the shorter of the shoulders is where i am having trouble. Unless I tilt
the blade the tenon is ruined. The blade must be tilted in two different
directions or the tenon must be flipped end for end to make the cuts. how
do most be people cut them? By hand or with a router seem to be the best
answers so far.





"George" george@least wrote in message
...
Back to basics.

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
The shorter is easily removed by hand sawing and trimming, as I suggested.

Thanks George, but as I stated in my original post, I am looking for
alternatives to cutting them by hand.



Amazing how stuff crops up, though. He does both ways - vertical and
horizontal - with wedges.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00143.asp

Incidentally, you do know that a wedge on the right, moved to the left,
guarantees the same angle, and the blade can stay the same?

"stoutman" wrote in message
om...
__________
/___------------
/___/
________/ ------------


the shorter of the shoulders is where i am having trouble. Unless I tilt
the blade the tenon is ruined. The blade must be tilted in two different
directions or the tenon must be flipped end for end to make the cuts.
how
do most be people cut them? By hand or with a router seem to be the best
answers so far.





"George" george@least wrote in message
...
Back to basics.