OK, I'm starting to look into making my own front door. I've never built
one so I've ordered a book from Amazon that was mentioned on here a few
days ago. The question will certainly be answered in the book but I can't
wait

I've been looking at white oak for the door. Is it acceptable to laminate
4/4 oak to get the desired thickness or do you have to buy 8/4? I'm
curious because 8/4 costs quite a bit more.

A good question. My gut tells me that you will not have problems laminating if
grain, species, and dryness are same. However, this is an important job,
rethink the 8/4 stock issue. It is more important but is that critical for this
project.

I actually did this on a red oak door I made some time ago. It allowed
me to create the mortices by routing each half instead of using a huge
morticing chisel deep into hard ass red oak. It actually was 2 1/4"
thick and 42x84. Worked out well. You should note that surfaced 8/4
is 1 3/4" thick and surfaced 4/4 is 3/4 to 13/16 thick, my point being
that if you want to end up with the standard exterior door thickness of
1 3/4", you need to surface the 4/4 to 7/8".
Jamie
Bruce wrote:

OK, I'm starting to look into making my own front door. I've never built
one so I've ordered a book from Amazon that was mentioned on here a few
days ago. The question will certainly be answered in the book but I can't
wait

I've been looking at white oak for the door. Is it acceptable to laminate
4/4 oak to get the desired thickness or do you have to buy 8/4? I'm
curious because 8/4 costs quite a bit more.

The thicker the lumber, the more prone to cracking, splitting, and
warping it is. That's why plywood is relatively stable. Although I've
never made a door from scratch before, I am assuming a laminated door is
better.... Let us know how your door turns out.
Mark

Bruce wrote:
OK, I'm starting to look into making my own front door. I've never built
one so I've ordered a book from Amazon that was mentioned on here a few
days ago. The question will certainly be answered in the book but I can't
wait

I've been looking at white oak for the door. Is it acceptable to laminate
4/4 oak to get the desired thickness or do you have to buy 8/4? I'm
curious because 8/4 costs quite a bit more.

In rec.woodworking
" " wrote:

The thicker the lumber, the more prone to cracking, splitting, and
warping it is. That's why plywood is relatively stable. Although I've
never made a door from scratch before, I am assuming a laminated door is
better.... Let us know how your door turns out.

Good point Mark, but now I'm even more confused. I've got 1 saying
laminate, 1 saying better not too, and one in the middle. I had figured
about 40 bd ft for the stiles and rails. The cost difference is about $75.
While that is a significant difference on the total price of wood, it isn't
enough money to worry about in the overall scheme of things. I want to do
what will make the best. longest lasting door.

Bruce wrote:

I've been looking at white oak for the door. Is it acceptable to laminate
4/4 oak to get the desired thickness or do you have to buy 8/4? I'm
curious because 8/4 costs quite a bit more.

I'm in the process of refinishing the front door of my home. The door is a
Craftsman style three panel door with three lights, approximately 100 years
old. Once I stripped it I was surprised to see that it is laminate
construction with the laminate thickness spaced for insertion of the panels.
Because of the door's detail, I doubt if this method was used because it was
easier. My guess is that it was constructed this was to reduce warping.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

In rec.woodworking
Nova wrote:

Bruce wrote:

I've been looking at white oak for the door. Is it acceptable to laminate
4/4 oak to get the desired thickness or do you have to buy 8/4? I'm
curious because 8/4 costs quite a bit more.

I'm in the process of refinishing the front door of my home. The door is a
Craftsman style three panel door with three lights, approximately 100 years
old. Once I stripped it I was surprised to see that it is laminate
construction with the laminate thickness spaced for insertion of the panels.
Because of the door's detail, I doubt if this method was used because it was
easier. My guess is that it was constructed this was to reduce warping.

Good input Jack, thanks. I'm leaning toward lamination and for quality of
construction now. The fact that it saves money is just a bonus.

Could you elaborate on the laminate spacing? Are you saying there are 3
laminated pieces with middle one being the required thickness to accomodate
the panels?

On Sun 28 Sep 2003 12:11:29p, (Bruce) wrote in
:

Good point Mark, but now I'm even more confused. I've got 1 saying
laminate, 1 saying better not too, and one in the middle.

:-)

Par for the course, wouldn't you say? Though with a few more posts coming
in, the majority seem to favor lamination or at least say that lamination
probably wouldn't hurt, it seems to me to be the basic wreck response.

I've never built a door so I probably shouldn't even say anything but I do
have a thought: given that most new lumber is from faster growth trees,
would it not follow that a present-day solid wood door is more prone to
warping than one made from slower growth timber?

Dan

Bruce wrote:

Good input Jack, thanks. I'm leaning toward lamination and for quality of
construction now. The fact that it saves money is just a bonus.

Could you elaborate on the laminate spacing? Are you saying there are 3
laminated pieces with middle one being the required thickness to accomodate
the panels?

Exactly. It also appears that the door was edge banded with the banding letted
into the rails and stiles so that only 3/8" of each face visible when viewed for
the edge. I can tell it's edge banded by looking at the recess for the lock set.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

In rec.woodworking
Dan wrote:

Par for the course, wouldn't you say? Though with a few more posts coming
in, the majority seem to favor lamination or at least say that lamination
probably wouldn't hurt, it seems to me to be the basic wreck response.

Just visited Lowes. I'm not sure what this tells me but NONE of the doors
there were laminated including the $2500 Oak doors. Is that a statement of
the quality Lowes carries or the right way to do things?

On Sun, 28 Sep 2003 16:06:24 GMT, (Bruce) wrote:

OK, I'm starting to look into making my own front door. I've never built
one so I've ordered a book from Amazon that was mentioned on here a few
days ago. The question will certainly be answered in the book but I can't
wait

I've been looking at white oak for the door. Is it acceptable to laminate
4/4 oak to get the desired thickness or do you have to buy 8/4? I'm
curious because 8/4 costs quite a bit more.

Very acceptable. Laminating will actually improve the stability.
White oak is a good choice.

On Sun, 28 Sep 2003 17:11:29 GMT, (Bruce) wrote:

In rec.woodworking
" " wrote:

The thicker the lumber, the more prone to cracking, splitting, and
warping it is. That's why plywood is relatively stable. Although I've
never made a door from scratch before, I am assuming a laminated door is
better.... Let us know how your door turns out.

Good point Mark, but now I'm even more confused. I've got 1 saying
laminate, 1 saying better not too, and one in the middle. I had figured
about 40 bd ft for the stiles and rails. The cost difference is about $75.
While that is a significant difference on the total price of wood, it isn't
enough money to worry about in the overall scheme of things. I want to do
what will make the best. longest lasting door.


I wanted to add to my previous comment. With proper glue (waterproof)
and glue-up procedure you will have a better door in the long run.
Getting the door as flat as possible, and to stay that way is
important and can be a challenge with an exterior door.

I wanted to add to my previous comment. With proper glue (waterproof)
and glue-up procedure you will have a better door in the long run.
Getting the door as flat as possible, and to stay that way is
important and can be a challenge with an exterior door.

Use epoxy or resourcinol glue (urea resin).

Rick

In rec.woodworking
Griz wrote:

I offer here a very few [suggestions] only, but born of experience:

Griz,

Thanks for the advice. I will certainly heed it, but you didn't answer the
primary question. Do you laminate doors or make them out of thick stock?

Bruce:

One of my specialties is making doors. GOOD ON YA for having
the backbone to go for it! There is no rocket science to it!

That said, it IS EXACTING and does require some meticulousness
and attention to detail.

I offer here a very few [suggestions] only, but born of experience:

White oak is a good choice but I suggest cypress.

Use a GOOD [MARINE] glue - generously, without getting sloppy of course,
and DO NOT wipe off the ooze-out as you clamp it up as this will only serve
to rub the glue deep/deeperinto the grain of the wood making staining, if
that's your intent, that much harder. Scrape it off when DRY.

If the grain is appealing to you - and if you're using it I assume you find
it so - I strongly suggest you seal it simply with a good quality
spar-varnish such as Zar/renew as necessary.

I hope this helps you out...


Warmly, Griz


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

On Sun, 28 Sep 2003 16:06:24 GMT, (Bruce) wrote:

"OK, I'm starting to look into making my own front door. I've never built
"one so I've ordered a book from Amazon that was mentioned on here a few
"days ago. The question will certainly be answered in the book but I can't
"wait
"
"I've been looking at white oak for the door. Is it acceptable to laminate
"4/4 oak to get the desired thickness or do you have to buy 8/4? I'm
"curious because 8/4 costs quite a bit more.

Bruce:

You're correct, I didn't answer that primary point and I apologize.
The answer is; Both!

I recently did a set of doors (3 pairs) for my parish in the church
itself. As they wanted to duplicate the originals (216 year old originals
as much as possible, they had need be nearly 5" thick white oak!

One of the most common hardwoods in east-central Mo. then as now.
Virtually 'weed-status'.

The originals showed no evidence of ever having been planed or
otherwise worked correctively over that time. Nor is there any record
in the meticulous parish records. (How meticulous? Example: "16cents
for winter sand delivered on Sept. 6, 1841" - To be scattered upon ice.)

Their mass plus generous 1/2" thick, 40" long, (each door being 42" wide)
12" high, two per door seems to have been enough to corral each on it's
journey to stability. The wood should obviously be well seasoned in open,
if protected air for not less than six to nine months. My grandfather
subscribed to the old formula of "An inch, a year and it won't go queer!"
I have never had reason to disagree here though in today's 'I don't care
what should be, I want it yesterday and I want it PERFECT - OR I'LL SUE!'
mentality, I don't think you'll have to look far to find someone who will!

As for laminating: Yes, I do it quite a lot! Probably the majority of the
time in fact. It is one of those 'necessary evils' - like my pick-up, that
P.O.S.... ! ;-)

The other posters are quite right, it does 'build-in' stability. Lamination
is quite acceptable in todays world and given the various constraints to
be likely encountered in the average job, both budgetary any aesthetic,
probably mandatory!

But to my way of thinking, this is secondary to the BASICS!

They built things this way in the old days not because they enjoyed
muscling around massively overdone woodworks and wood was cheaper
than dirt. They did not NEED to build heavy for durability, - Look at the
works of Hepplewhite, Chippendale and Pfife (Spell'g.?). Or, for that
matter, check out an AUTHENTIC windsor chair! They built heavy primarily
for reasons of security/defense as well as not inconsiderable insulative
properties.

Laminating or massive, just build s-l-o-w-l-y (to go too fast is to make
predictably mistakes - reliably) planning well - and in advance, having all
materials present at the start and proceed with care! Do this and I
promise:

You will not fail!

I hope this helps...

Warmly, Griz


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


On Wed, 01 Oct 2003 00:38:12 GMT, (Bruce) wrote:

"In rec.woodworking
"Griz wrote:
"
"I offer here a very few [suggestions] only, but born of experience:
"
"Griz,
"
"Thanks for the advice. I will certainly heed it, but you didn't answer the
"primary question. Do you laminate doors or make them out of thick stock?

Bruce:

'Sorry, I goofed again, this time in my proof-reading.
The not necessarily clear item I was trying to illustrate was
1/2" thick, 40" long, 12" high and two per door were the iron
hinges. I don't know how I dropped that detail in the writing
of it, but it happened, 'sorry.
Anyway, I'm sure you can see how they contributed mightily
to controlling distortions over the decades.
I think they were roughly twice as thick as they needed to be
even by the standards of their time. Why is open to speculation.

I hope this helps and/or helps clarify. Again, I am sorry about
my sloppiness.

Warmly, Grid


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

On Wed, 01 Oct 2003 00:38:12 GMT, (Bruce) wrote:

"In rec.woodworking
"Griz wrote:
"
"I offer here a very few [suggestions] only, but born of experience:
"
"Griz,
"
"Thanks for the advice. I will certainly heed it, but you didn't answer the
"primary question. Do you laminate doors or make them out of thick stock?

Bruce:

'Sorry, I goofed again, this time in my proof-reading.
The not necessarily clear item I was trying to illustrate was
1/2" thick, 40" long, 12" high and two per door were the iron
hinges. I don't know how I dropped that detail in the writing
of it, but it happened, 'sorry.
Anyway, I'm sure you can see how they contributed mightily
to controlling distortions over the decades.
I think they were roughly twice as thick as they needed to be
even by the standards of their time. Why is open to speculation.

I hope this helps and/or helps clarify. Again, I am sorry about
my sloppiness.

Warmly, Griz


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


On Wed, 01 Oct 2003 00:38:12 GMT, (Bruce) wrote:

"In rec.woodworking
"Griz wrote:
"
"I offer here a very few [suggestions] only, but born of experience:
"
"Griz,
"
"Thanks for the advice. I will certainly heed it, but you didn't answer the
"primary question. Do you laminate doors or make them out of thick stock?

(Bruce) wrote in message ...
OK, I'm starting to look into making my own front door. I've never built
one so I've ordered a book from Amazon that was mentioned on here a few
days ago. The question will certainly be answered in the book but I can't
wait

I've been looking at white oak for the door. Is it acceptable to laminate
4/4 oak to get the desired thickness or do you have to buy 8/4? I'm
curious because 8/4 costs quite a bit more.

I built all of the doors for my house, and laminated the stiles on
purpose, even though I bought 8/4 stock. I resawed the 8/4, and glued
up the stiles so that they were bookmatched on both faces of the door.
On some interior doors, the wood species on one side is different than
the other so that the door matches the wood trim on each room. In
this case, I had to laminate the rails, too.