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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
So I took a gander at a high-end wood retailer today at lunch and came
across some stuff that I can't figure out. Some boards were sold as $x.yy per board foot and others were sold as $x.yy per square foot. Why the differences? It appeared as though the 1/2 boards were all sold square foot and the 4/4, 8/4, and 16/4 boards were sold board foot. What exactly is a board foot? I'm presuming that's what BF meant on the price - and none of the wood was dimensioned. |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
"Eigenvector" wrote in message . .. So I took a gander at a high-end wood retailer today at lunch and came across some stuff that I can't figure out. Some boards were sold as $x.yy per board foot and others were sold as $x.yy per square foot. Why the differences? It appeared as though the 1/2 boards were all sold square foot and the 4/4, 8/4, and 16/4 boards were sold board foot. What exactly is a board foot? I'm presuming that's what BF meant on the price - and none of the wood was dimensioned. A board foot of 4/4 wood is 12 x 12 inches. A board foot of 8/4 wood is 6x6 inches, etc. Boards thinner than 4/4 are usually sold by the square foot if for no other reason that people don't realize how much it costs. To make a 1/2 inch thick board, people usually start with 4/4 and plane it down. The customer pays for the scrap. Boards sold by the board foot need not be otherwise dimensioned. And, hardwood is sold in random widths and random lengths. You pay plenty for the scap if you want specific widths and / or lengths. Jim |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
Actually a "board foot", usually abreviated as FBM, is 144 cubic inches of
wood. So for stock that is nominally 12" wide a board foot would be 12" X 12" X 1". Hardwoods are usually sold as "X/4" where 4/4 = 1", 8/4= 2" etc. So stock that is 8/4 would see a board that is 6" X 12" equal 1 FBM. I would otherwise agree with what Jim said. "Jim" wrote in message . net... "Eigenvector" wrote in message . .. So I took a gander at a high-end wood retailer today at lunch and came across some stuff that I can't figure out. Some boards were sold as $x.yy per board foot and others were sold as $x.yy per square foot. Why the differences? It appeared as though the 1/2 boards were all sold square foot and the 4/4, 8/4, and 16/4 boards were sold board foot. What exactly is a board foot? I'm presuming that's what BF meant on the price - and none of the wood was dimensioned. A board foot of 4/4 wood is 12 x 12 inches. A board foot of 8/4 wood is 6x6 inches, etc. Boards thinner than 4/4 are usually sold by the square foot if for no other reason that people don't realize how much it costs. To make a 1/2 inch thick board, people usually start with 4/4 and plane it down. The customer pays for the scrap. Boards sold by the board foot need not be otherwise dimensioned. And, hardwood is sold in random widths and random lengths. You pay plenty for the scap if you want specific widths and / or lengths. Jim |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
"Jim" wrote in message . net... "Eigenvector" wrote in message . .. So I took a gander at a high-end wood retailer today at lunch and came across some stuff that I can't figure out. Some boards were sold as $x.yy per board foot and others were sold as $x.yy per square foot. Why the differences? It appeared as though the 1/2 boards were all sold square foot and the 4/4, 8/4, and 16/4 boards were sold board foot. What exactly is a board foot? I'm presuming that's what BF meant on the price - and none of the wood was dimensioned. A board foot of 4/4 wood is 12 x 12 inches. A board foot of 8/4 wood is 6x6 inches, etc. Boards thinner than 4/4 are usually sold by the square foot if for no other reason that people don't realize how much it costs. To make a 1/2 inch thick board, people usually start with 4/4 and plane it down. The customer pays for the scrap. Boards sold by the board foot need not be otherwise dimensioned. And, hardwood is sold in random widths and random lengths. You pay plenty for the scap if you want specific widths and / or lengths. Jim I'm sorry but I'm gonna pick at your response because I can't follow it. you said 4/4 is 12x12 and 8/4 is 6x6 and then finished it with etc... I don't understand. I see 4/4 as 1" thick so 12x12 would be a board foot - makes sense. I see 8/4 as being 2" thick, so I see that as 2x6x6 which isn't the same as 12x12x1" I really don't want to turn this isn't a math problem - I just wanted to understand how it worked. If I follow your example, 16/4 would be 3x3 per board foot. Is it more like (12x1)x(12x1) and (6x2)x(6x2) and (3x4)x(3x4)? I'm just asking because I want to sound somewhat intelligent when I go to pick up my puny 4/4 white oak boards. At $4.25 a board foot it might add up, but not really a 4/4 6" wide 8 foot board would be 4 board feet or 17 bucks! Pretty cheap when you compare it to the 50 or 60 bucks the Borgs offer it for. |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
"Eigenvector" writes: What exactly is a board foot? A board foot is a VOLUME of 144 cubic inches of ROUGH wood. Picture a 1' by 1' by 1" slab of rough cut wood; that's a board foot. In fact, go make one, write "BF" on it, and hang it in your shop. Make a 2"x6"x12" one to go next to it, and a 1"x6"x24" one too. They're all a board foot. A 1 foot cube of wood (1x1x1) is thus 12 board feet. Some things are easier to sell by the linear foot, like mouldings. Some things are easier to sell by the square foot, like plywood. With surfaced wood, you have to figure it based on the original rough size. Thus, a 1.5 x 3.5 x 8' board is 2 x 4 x (8*12) / 144 = 5.33 bf. What I tend to do is figure out how long a board has to be to be a board foot, then scale. Example: a 2x8 rough is 16 sq in, or 4/3 of a sq ft. So a board foot is 3/4 of a foot of that board, or a 2x8 9" long. A 9 foot length is thus 12bf. A 2x6 or 1x12 is 1 bf per foot of length. A 1x6 or 2x3 is 1 bf per two feet of length. A 1x4 is 1 bf per 3 feet of length. Etc. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
I'm sorry but I'm gonna pick at your response because I can't follow it.
you said 4/4 is 12x12 and 8/4 is 6x6 and then finished it with etc... I don't understand. I see 4/4 as 1" thick so 12x12 would be a board foot - makes sense. I see 8/4 as being 2" thick, so I see that as 2x6x6 which isn't the same as 12x12x1" I I believe he intended to say a board foot of 8/5 would be 6 x 12 inches not 6 x 6. |
#7
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Terminology explanation
On Aug 2, 8:55 pm, Mike in Arkansas wrote:
I'm sorry but I'm gonna pick at your response because I can't follow it. you said 4/4 is 12x12 and 8/4 is 6x6 and then finished it with etc... I don't understand. I see 4/4 as 1" thick so 12x12 would be a board foot - makes sense. I see 8/4 as being 2" thick, so I see that as 2x6x6 which isn't the same as 12x12x1" I I believe he intended to say a board foot of 8/5 would be 6 x 12 inches not 6 x 6. sorry, make that 8/4 |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
"Eigenvector" wrote in message I'm sorry but I'm gonna pick at your response because I can't follow it. you said 4/4 is 12x12 and 8/4 is 6x6 and then finished it with etc... I don't understand. I see 4/4 as 1" thick so 12x12 would be a board foot - makes sense. I see 8/4 as being 2" thick, so I see that as 2x6x6 which isn't the same as 12x12x1" I really don't want to turn this isn't a math problem - I just wanted to understand how it worked. If I follow your example, 16/4 would be 3x3 per board foot. Is it more like (12x1)x(12x1) and (6x2)x(6x2) and (3x4)x(3x4)? I'm just asking because I want to sound somewhat intelligent when I go to pick up my puny 4/4 white oak boards. At $4.25 a board foot it might add up, but not really a 4/4 6" wide 8 foot board would be 4 board feet or 17 bucks! Pretty cheap when you compare it to the 50 or 60 bucks the Borgs offer it for. Jim was typing faster than he was thinking. 12 x 12 x 1 is a board foot So is 6 x 12 x 2 a board foot. It is probably easier to think in terms of 144 cubic inches. Keep in mind, a board that is sitting on the shelf that measures 12 x 12 x 3/4 was planed down so it will still be charged as a board foot. Just to confuse you more, some of the big box stores sell their wood by the lineal foot. That way, a 6" wide board will cost roughly double per foot compared to a 3" wide board. -- Ed http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/ |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
"Eigenvector" wrote in message . .. So I took a gander at a high-end wood retailer today at lunch and came across some stuff that I can't figure out. Some boards were sold as $x.yy per board foot and others were sold as $x.yy per square foot. Why the differences? It appeared as though the 1/2 boards were all sold square foot and the 4/4, 8/4, and 16/4 boards were sold board foot. What exactly is a board foot? I'm presuming that's what BF meant on the price - and none of the wood was dimensioned. BF is LxWxH in inches divided by 144. Hardwood is often sold in the quarters system where 4/4=1" thick, 6/4= 1.5" thick, etc... So as an example, a 4/4 board that measures 6" wide and 72" long would be: 1" (H) X 6" (W) X 72" = 432 cubic inches/144 cubic inches = 3BF. Make sense? |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
"Eigenvector" wrote in message
I'm sorry but I'm gonna pick at your response because I can't follow it. All you ever need to know, and more, in one place: http://www.westwindhardwood.com/order_art.html .... print it out, memorize it, put it on the shop wall, take it to heart, you'll be glad you did. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 6/1/07 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
"Swingman" wrote in message ... "Eigenvector" wrote in message I'm sorry but I'm gonna pick at your response because I can't follow it. All you ever need to know, and more, in one place: http://www.westwindhardwood.com/order_art.html ... print it out, memorize it, put it on the shop wall, take it to heart, you'll be glad you did. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 6/1/07 KarlC@ (the obvious) Thanks, that'll give me something to read. |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
"James "Cubby" Culbertson" wrote in message . .. BF is LxWxH in inches divided by 144. Hardwood is often sold in the quarters system where 4/4=1" thick, 6/4= 1.5" thick, etc... So as an example, a 4/4 board that measures 6" wide and 72" long would be: 1" (H) X 6" (W) X 72" = 432 cubic inches/144 cubic inches = 3BF. Make sense? What makes sense is to use the built-in terminology and screw the 144 business. My pickup has 4 ft of 102" (8ft) boards per tier. Makes 32 my base. 4/4 is the 32, 5/4 is 160(5x32)/4 = 40 . That way you can do your calcs in your head if you're over forty, with a pencil if you're over thirty, or trust the pimple-factory and his calculator if you're younger .... |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
I use a slight variation of the calculation -- for me it is easier to do in
my head while shopping for the lumber I want or need. A x B x C ---------- 12 Where A = thickness in inches B = width in inches C = length in feet So for example I have a 4/4 piece of oak that is 6" wide and 8 feet long. 1 x 6 x 8 --------- = 4BF 12 Thom "George" wrote in message et... "James "Cubby" Culbertson" wrote in message . .. BF is LxWxH in inches divided by 144. Hardwood is often sold in the quarters system where 4/4=1" thick, 6/4= 1.5" thick, etc... So as an example, a 4/4 board that measures 6" wide and 72" long would be: 1" (H) X 6" (W) X 72" = 432 cubic inches/144 cubic inches = 3BF. Make sense? What makes sense is to use the built-in terminology and screw the 144 business. My pickup has 4 ft of 102" (8ft) boards per tier. Makes 32 my base. 4/4 is the 32, 5/4 is 160(5x32)/4 = 40 . That way you can do your calcs in your head if you're over forty, with a pencil if you're over thirty, or trust the pimple-factory and his calculator if you're younger .... |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
On Thu, 2 Aug 2007 19:06:32 -0500, "Jim" wrote:
"Eigenvector" wrote in message ... So I took a gander at a high-end wood retailer today at lunch and came across some stuff that I can't figure out. Some boards were sold as $x.yy per board foot and others were sold as $x.yy per square foot. Why the differences? It appeared as though the 1/2 boards were all sold square foot and the 4/4, 8/4, and 16/4 boards were sold board foot. What exactly is a board foot? I'm presuming that's what BF meant on the price - and none of the wood was dimensioned. A board foot of 4/4 wood is 12 x 12 inches. A board foot of 8/4 wood is 6x6 inches, etc. Boards thinner than 4/4 are usually sold by the square foot if for no other reason that people don't realize how much it costs. To make a 1/2 inch thick board, people usually start with 4/4 and plane it down. The customer pays for the scrap. Boards sold by the board foot need not be otherwise dimensioned. And, hardwood is sold in random widths and random lengths. You pay plenty for the scap if you want specific widths and / or lengths. Jim And then there's places that price by the POUND! I was comparing pricing cocobolo and jarrah for a clients goblets and the CB was available in 4" x 4" x 12" pieces for $40.. Ok, that's the kind of stuff I can understand... Maybe even calling it 16/16 or something.. OTOH, the jarrah was $6 a pound??? I emailed them asking what the approximate weight of a 4x4x12" chunk of jarrah was and got "about 8 or 10 pounds" as a reply.. hard to give a client a bid based on that pricing..lol mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
On Fri, 3 Aug 2007 07:51:15 -0600, "Thom" wrote:
I use a slight variation of the calculation -- for me it is easier to do in my head while shopping for the lumber I want or need. A x B x C ---------- 12 Where A = thickness in inches B = width in inches C = length in feet So for example I have a 4/4 piece of oak that is 6" wide and 8 feet long. 1 x 6 x 8 --------- = 4BF 12 Thom Yeah, that's the way I learned it, from some book in the distant past... Wouldn't it work out the same if you used an inch per foot on the length and didn't have to divide the sum by 12? (Yeah, I flunked math in HS) mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
"Eigenvector" wrote in message news "Jim" wrote in message . net... "Eigenvector" wrote in message . .. So I took a gander at a high-end wood retailer today at lunch and came across some stuff that I can't figure out. Some boards were sold as $x.yy per board foot and others were sold as $x.yy per square foot. Why the differences? It appeared as though the 1/2 boards were all sold square foot and the 4/4, 8/4, and 16/4 boards were sold board foot. What exactly is a board foot? I'm presuming that's what BF meant on the price - and none of the wood was dimensioned. A board foot of 4/4 wood is 12 x 12 inches. A board foot of 8/4 wood is 6x6 inches, etc. Boards thinner than 4/4 are usually sold by the square foot if for no other reason that people don't realize how much it costs. To make a 1/2 inch thick board, people usually start with 4/4 and plane it down. The customer pays for the scrap. Boards sold by the board foot need not be otherwise dimensioned. And, hardwood is sold in random widths and random lengths. You pay plenty for the scap if you want specific widths and / or lengths. Jim I'm sorry but I'm gonna pick at your response because I can't follow it. you said 4/4 is 12x12 and 8/4 is 6x6 and then finished it with etc... I don't understand. I see 4/4 as 1" thick so 12x12 would be a board foot - makes sense. I see 8/4 as being 2" thick, so I see that as 2x6x6 which isn't the same as 12x12x1" I really don't want to turn this isn't a math problem - I just wanted to understand how it worked. If I follow your example, 16/4 would be 3x3 per board foot. Is it more like (12x1)x(12x1) and (6x2)x(6x2) and (3x4)x(3x4)? I'm just asking because I want to sound somewhat intelligent when I go to pick up my puny 4/4 white oak boards. At $4.25 a board foot it might add up, but not really a 4/4 6" wide 8 foot board would be 4 board feet or 17 bucks! Pretty cheap when you compare it to the 50 or 60 bucks the Borgs offer it for. When I said 4/4 wood, I meant that the board was 1 inch thick when it was rough cut. Thus, 8/4 wood was 2 inches thick when it was rough cut, and so forth. Lumbermen for some strange reason use improper fractions to designate board thickness. But, to respond to your comment about the board, yes it would be 4 board feet. And, yes, it is much cheaper than what you see at the borg. However, most hardwood lumber is only surfaced on top and bottom (S2S in short). What you see at the borg is surfaced top, bottom, and the two sides (S4S). Using S4S wood saves time for those of us who don't own both a jointer and a planer. The customer pays for the extra surfacing regardless of where he buys the wood. I don't believe though that the borg sells FAS grade wood. Jim |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
Jim wrote:
"Eigenvector" wrote in message news "Jim" wrote in message . net... "Eigenvector" wrote in message . .. So I took a gander at a high-end wood retailer today at lunch and came across some stuff that I can't figure out. Some boards were sold as $x.yy per board foot and others were sold as $x.yy per square foot. Why the differences? It appeared as though the 1/2 boards were all sold square foot and the 4/4, 8/4, and 16/4 boards were sold board foot. What exactly is a board foot? I'm presuming that's what BF meant on the price - and none of the wood was dimensioned. A board foot of 4/4 wood is 12 x 12 inches. A board foot of 8/4 wood is 6x6 inches, etc. Boards thinner than 4/4 are usually sold by the square foot if for no other reason that people don't realize how much it costs. To make a 1/2 inch thick board, people usually start with 4/4 and plane it down. The customer pays for the scrap. Boards sold by the board foot need not be otherwise dimensioned. And, hardwood is sold in random widths and random lengths. You pay plenty for the scap if you want specific widths and / or lengths. Jim I'm sorry but I'm gonna pick at your response because I can't follow it. you said 4/4 is 12x12 and 8/4 is 6x6 and then finished it with etc... I don't understand. I see 4/4 as 1" thick so 12x12 would be a board foot - makes sense. I see 8/4 as being 2" thick, so I see that as 2x6x6 which isn't the same as 12x12x1" I really don't want to turn this isn't a math problem - I just wanted to understand how it worked. If I follow your example, 16/4 would be 3x3 per board foot. Is it more like (12x1)x(12x1) and (6x2)x(6x2) and (3x4)x(3x4)? I'm just asking because I want to sound somewhat intelligent when I go to pick up my puny 4/4 white oak boards. At $4.25 a board foot it might add up, but not really a 4/4 6" wide 8 foot board would be 4 board feet or 17 bucks! Pretty cheap when you compare it to the 50 or 60 bucks the Borgs offer it for. When I said 4/4 wood, I meant that the board was 1 inch thick when it was rough cut. Thus, 8/4 wood was 2 inches thick when it was rough cut, and so forth. Lumbermen for some strange reason use improper fractions to designate board thickness. But, to respond to your comment about the board, yes it would be 4 board feet. And, yes, it is much cheaper than what you see at the borg. However, most hardwood lumber is only surfaced on top and bottom (S2S in short). What you see at the borg is surfaced top, bottom, and the two sides (S4S). Using S4S wood saves time for those of us who don't own both a jointer and a planer. The customer pays for the extra surfacing regardless of where he buys the wood. I don't believe though that the borg sells FAS grade wood. Jim yeah but.... A board foot of 8/4 lumber would be 6" x 12" (not 6" x 6") |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
I don't believe though that the borg sells FAS grade wood. I do. Remember, I HATE borgs, so it pains me to give the credit, but it's due. My local borgs actually have very clear red oak and poplar, just at insanely ridiculous prices. Aside from price, another down side is that much of the red oak is often the flattest sawn I've ever seen, complete with crazy arch figure, with very few vertical grain boards. This may be due to a buildup of uglier boards due to customer selection. Some of it might make cool book matched panels, if only it were wider. I haven't seen the red oak or poplar grading rules lately, but I've hardly ever seen a defect in a borg hardwood board. |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
"Charlie M. 1958" wrote in message ... Jim wrote: yeah but.... A board foot of 8/4 lumber would be 6" x 12" (not 6" x 6") I wrote that post while half asleep. Mathematics in my head is not my strong suit anymore. Jim |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
"B A R R Y" wrote in message ... I don't believe though that the borg sells FAS grade wood. I do. Remember, I HATE borgs, so it pains me to give the credit, but it's due. My local borgs actually have very clear red oak and poplar, just at insanely ridiculous prices. Aside from price, another down side is that much of the red oak is often the flattest sawn I've ever seen, complete with crazy arch figure, with very few vertical grain boards. This may be due to a buildup of uglier boards due to customer selection. Some of it might make cool book matched panels, if only it were wider. I haven't seen the red oak or poplar grading rules lately, but I've hardly ever seen a defect in a borg hardwood board. The top grade is FAS (short for Firsts And Seconds) If I understand the Hogan Hardwood website, FAS defines boards which a Clear on one side Very small defects on the other side At least 8 feet long. Boards which meet the first two requirements, but not the third, are Select grade. Most of the boards at the borgs near me are Select or below. This is not to say that only FAS or Select should be used. I built lots of things out of No. 1 Common Ash. You just need to do a lot of cutting or be lucky to find a long board that is all usable. Jim |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
B A R R Y wrote in
: I don't believe though that the borg sells FAS grade wood. I do. Remember, I HATE borgs, so it pains me to give the credit, but it's due. My local borgs actually have very clear red oak and poplar, just at insanely ridiculous prices. Aside from price, another down side is that much of the red oak is often the flattest sawn I've ever seen, complete with crazy arch figure, with very few vertical grain boards. This may be due to a buildup of uglier boards due to customer selection. Some of it might make cool book matched panels, if only it were wider. I haven't seen the red oak or poplar grading rules lately, but I've hardly ever seen a defect in a borg hardwood board. Wandering further afield here.... My neighbor, a woodworker of some experience, has more than filled his family's homes. There's WAY too much stuff there. When he builds these days, it's almost always something for a friend. And he almost always uses BORG red oak ply and lumber. There's not that much stock, and he can get it without major hassle and without much basic milling prep. And it comes out looking like a pretty good job in home center red oak. That's what he was trying for. He's a builder, not an artist. He's doing this for friends, not for money. I, on the other hand, have this artist streak in me, and everything has the potential to be something great! The potential, anyway. Patriarch, who goes to the Borg only when absolutely necessary... |
#22
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Terminology explanation
Jim wrote:
"Charlie M. 1958" wrote in message ... Jim wrote: yeah but.... A board foot of 8/4 lumber would be 6" x 12" (not 6" x 6") I wrote that post while half asleep. Mathematics in my head is not my strong suit anymore. Jim I knew that you knew better, but I didn't want the guy who was shaky on board footage to be scratching his head too long. :-) |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Terminology explanation
"B A R R Y" wrote in message
I haven't seen the red oak or poplar grading rules lately, but I've hardly ever seen a defect in a borg hardwood board. Certainly useful on a weekend, after noon Saturday, when you need material in a pinch. Poplar and red oak are generally good here at both BORG's, as long as you check the MC, and can stand their linear foot pricing. I often make a pass by the red oad bin at HD just to pick out the odd QS board you can generally find in any stack. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 6/1/07 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
#24
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Terminology explanation
Jim wrote:
The top grade is FAS (short for Firsts And Seconds) If I understand the Hogan Hardwood website, FAS defines boards which a Clear on one side Very small defects on the other side At least 8 feet long. I agree. The boards I see locally meet those standards, except for those that have been cut by customers. Those really should be marked down, but they came into the store long enough to meet grade. The bins in my local stores are filled with mostly 8-10'long boards, with a smattering of 6'. There are also the usual 1-2' boards cut off by idiots. The only FAS standard that isn't met by my local BORGs at stocking time is width. For instance, I know that red oak is supposed to be 6" wide in the rough to be FAS, but dressed s4s 2", 3", and 4" wide s4s boards obviously can't be wide enough to truly meet grade. For dressed boards, FAS width standards can really only apply to defects and length once the wood is milled. I don't know of any hardwood provider that drops the grade after milling a board, if the desired width is less than grade. Don't forget that length and width grade standards can change with species. Also remember that dressing adds cost. Just yesterday, I ordered 300 lf of s4s 1x4 (3/4 x 3-1/2) stock for a trim project @ $1.80/lf from my favorite wood dealer. That's $5.40 a board foot, which is $2 more than I pay for it rough or ($3.20 bd/ft). I have a good (quality and sized) jointer and planer, but I don't want to spend a day dressing it. The same 1x4 is $2.30/lf at the local BORG. I'm sure the quality of BORG hardwood stock most definitely changes from locale to locale, but mine definitely sells what ws FAS when they milled it. I'm still feeling strange that I'm standing up for the BORGs... G |
#25
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Terminology explanation
"mac davis" wrote in message ... On Fri, 3 Aug 2007 07:51:15 -0600, "Thom" wrote: I use a slight variation of the calculation -- for me it is easier to do in my head while shopping for the lumber I want or need. A x B x C ---------- 12 Where A = thickness in inches B = width in inches C = length in feet So for example I have a 4/4 piece of oak that is 6" wide and 8 feet long. 1 x 6 x 8 --------- = 4BF 12 Thom Yeah, that's the way I learned it, from some book in the distant past... Wouldn't it work out the same if you used an inch per foot on the length and didn't have to divide the sum by 12? (Yeah, I flunked math in HS) mac Yeah, there are all sorts of ways to figure it given there are feet and inches involved. I personally found a tape measure that had the BF scale on the back of it similar to what the lumber yard uses to measure BF and use that although for a board or two, I usually just do it in my head. Cheers, cc |
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