If you are going to buy a new TS in the near future and think that
there are too many safety devices on the TS's now, you better buy one now
before the UL regulations require the new TS's to be equipped with a riving
knife.

For the rest of us, this is probably good news.

The bait has been cast. ;~)

http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/...34afd30b9.aspx

Leon wrote:

If you are going to buy a new TS in the near future and think that
there are too many safety devices on the TS's now, you better buy one now
before the UL regulations require the new TS's to be equipped with a riving
knife.

For the rest of us, this is probably good news.

The bait has been cast. ;~)

About freakin' time. Won't keep you from cutting off a finger or
two,
but will go a long way towards reducing the number of kickbacks and
projectile wood. Hopefully they'll include a thin kerf and regular
kerf
riving knife with each new saw. Not sure what they'll come up with
for stacked dado blades - which is why the Euro equivalent of OSHA
doesn't allow table saws to hold stacked dado blades.

charlie b

riving knife with each new saw. Not sure what they'll come up with
for stacked dado blades - which is why the Euro equivalent of OSHA
doesn't allow table saws to hold stacked dado blades.

charlie b

I'm confused, why would I need a riving knife to cut dados?

jim e

On 21 Jul, 14:55, "Leon" wrote:
If you are going to buy a new TS in the near future and think that
there are too many safety devices on the TS's now, you better buy one now
before the UL regulations require the new TS's to be equipped with a riving
knife.

Another thing to look at carefully is that TS in the UK now have the
safety guard fitted to the top of the riving knive. This means that
you can only ose the TS for cutting completely through the wood. I
suggest that if this is the case then you should get a second knive
and adapt it so you can, if required just cut slots in wood or for
cutting the lid on a box.

From what I can see, the decision makers have made a catch-all
decision without any consultation with the people who use the tools.

On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 08:55:00 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:

If you are going to buy a new TS in the near future and think that
there are too many safety devices on the TS's now, you better buy one now
before the UL regulations require the new TS's to be equipped with a riving
knife.

For the rest of us, this is probably good news.

The bait has been cast. ;~)

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzing as that line goes flying off that reel.

Don't have a strong opinion on riving knives, never used one, however,
anything the market drives is probably OK. Anything that a regulator
requires is suspect. Keep in mind that it is not necessary to have a
UL listing to sell the product, and, I know at least a few years, ago
most of the industrial cabinet saw manufacturers did not have the
listing. UL listing used to mean some really strange and useless
restrictions. As an example, cannot manufacture a saw without a
blade. So, instead reducing the cost of the saw and of letting you
purchase the blade of your choice for your particular operation, the
manufacturer of a listed unit has to "guess" what you want and include
that (usually a cheap combo) in their offering. Another example is
that none of the very good after market guards, which are much better
than the "approved" supplied guards could be UL approved to offer as
an option with the saw as a single number package. They can be swung
out of the way for unguarded operations and will not "automatically
fall back in place"

Things may have changed.

Frank

http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/...34afd30b9.aspx

On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 07:47:22 -0700, charlieb
wrote:

riving knife with each new saw. Not sure what they'll come up with
for stacked dado blades - which is why the Euro equivalent of OSHA
doesn't allow table saws to hold stacked dado blades.

That's not the reason - it's related to spin-down times with a heavy
blade stack (web search under "PUWER 98"). If you sort that problem, as
big industrial saws have, then you can use dado sets.

Leon, (or others)
(and please be kind to me if you think my question is rooted in
ignorance)
Are riving knives any safer than removable splitters? I know that
they sit closer to the back of the blade tha a splitter - like my
Biesemeyer - but aside from that, what makes them better?

Marc


On Jul 21, 9:55 am, "Leon" wrote:
If you are going to buy a new TS in the near future and think that
there are too many safety devices on the TS's now, you better buy one now
before the UL regulations require the new TS's to be equipped with a riving
knife.

For the rest of us, this is probably good news.

The bait has been cast. ;~)

http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/...nk%2Cguid%2C9b...

Leon wrote:
If you are going to buy a new TS in the near future and think that
there are too many safety devices on the TS's now, you better buy one now
before the UL regulations require the new TS's to be equipped with a riving
knife.

For the rest of us, this is probably good news.

The bait has been cast. ;~)

http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/...34afd30b9.aspx




I looks like the "requirement" is voluntary and was recommended on
January 31, 2005. See:

http://www.cpsc.gov/volstd/tablesaws/tablesaws.html

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

"marc rosen" wrote in message
ups.com...
Leon, (or others)
(and please be kind to me if you think my question is rooted in
ignorance)
Are riving knives any safer than removable splitters? I know that
they sit closer to the back of the blade tha a splitter - like my
Biesemeyer - but aside from that, what makes them better?

Marc


I have never used a riving knife but many will raise and lower with the
blade. Safer? I don't know.

"Leon" wrote in message
I have never used a riving knife but many will raise and lower with the
blade. Safer? I don't know.

My guess is that they're safer than a splitter. As well as some raising and
lowering with the blade, they usually match the curvature of the blade.
Seems to be a much more encompassing protection against kickback.

"Leon" wrote in message
I have never used a riving knife but many will raise and lower with the
blade. Safer? I don't know.

My guess is that they're safer than a splitter. As well as some raising and
lowering with the blade, they usually match the curvature of the blade.
Seems to be a much more encompassing protection against kickback.

"Leon" wrote in message
I have never used a riving knife but many will raise and lower with the
blade. Safer? I don't know.

My guess is that they're safer than a splitter. As well as some raising and
lowering with the blade, they usually match the curvature of the blade.
Seems to be a much more encompassing protection against kickback.

"marc rosen" wrote in message
ups.com...
Leon, (or others)
(and please be kind to me if you think my question is rooted in
ignorance)
Are riving knives any safer than removable splitters? I know that
they sit closer to the back of the blade tha a splitter - like my
Biesemeyer - but aside from that, what makes them better?

For any safety device to ultimately be effective, it needs to be more
convenient to use than not.

For that reason I would think the safety factor of a riving knife is
marginally greater, mainly because of its "convenience".

IOW, since it rises and lowers with the blade and doesn't extend over the
top of the blade, it is a lot more convenient to leave on for most type of
cuts, and if you don't have to remove it, you won't forget to put it back on
for the next cut.

You could also probably argue that a riving knife, which usually rides
closer to the back of the blade, leaves less room between it and the blade
for something to get caught in.

I'm all for their incorporation into TS technology ... wish my Uni was so
equipped.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 6/1/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message

For any safety device to ultimately be effective, it needs to be more
convenient to use than not.

Good point. That's something that isn't mentioned too often, but it is one
of the more important factors. You can come up with all the improvements in
the world, but it they're not convenient to use, then they're mostly
discarded. As humans, we're a lazy bunch of SOB's aren't we?

On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 14:50:52 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:


I'm all for their incorporation into TS technology ... wish my Uni was so
equipped.

Same for my General.

I have yet to see a negative for a riving knife, other than the 50-60
year old designs of most of our saws.


---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

Subject

Remember the cartoon of a few years ago which showed a riding horse
equipped with all the OHSA guards attached?

Lew

On Jul 21, 3:47?pm, charlieb wrote:
Leon wrote:

If you are going to buy a new TS in the near future and think that
there are too many safety devices on the TS's now, you better buy one now
before the UL regulations require the new TS's to be equipped with a riving
knife.

For the rest of us, this is probably good news.

The bait has been cast. ;~)

About freakin' time. Won't keep you from cutting off a finger or
two,
but will go a long way towards reducing the number of kickbacks and
projectile wood. Hopefully they'll include a thin kerf and regular
kerf
riving knife with each new saw. Not sure what they'll come up with
for stacked dado blades - which is why the Euro equivalent of OSHA
doesn't allow table saws to hold stacked dado blades.

charlie b

There seems to be a certain amount of confusion on that last point,
Charlie. Stacked cutters are certainly available here (see
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...-set-30mm-bore
) from several sources. I had heard on a woodworking program here
that as long as the arbor on the TS was long enough to accomodate the
cutters, then the set could be used. Can't find any definitive
answers yet.

FoggyTown

wrote:


I'm confused, why would I need a riving knife to cut dados?

You don't. The riving knife keeps the kerf open behind the blade
so it can't close and make contact with the rear teeth - the
ones that typcially start a kickback.

Separate issue - dados - the EU OSHA doesn't allow "blind cuts"
on a table saw - that is cuts like rabbets/rebates and dados.

charlie b

Leon wrote:

I have never used a riving knife but many will raise and lower with the
blade. Safer? I don't know.

Look at the second picture on this page.
http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/X31/X31.html
Note that the riving knife
a) is close the the blade and wraps around almost all of the
top rear quarter of the blade - where the teeth that
typically start a kickback are located
b) is attached to the saw arbor so as the blade is raised or
lowered - or tilted, the riving knife stays close to the blade

A splitter on the other hand is often
a) increases the distance between it and the back of the blade
as the depth of cut gets smaller
b) may or may not follow the blade when it's tilted
(the ones attached to the throat plate don't work when
the blade is tilted)

charlie b

charlieb wrote:
wrote:


I'm confused, why would I need a riving knife to cut dados?

You don't. The riving knife keeps the kerf open behind the blade
so it can't close and make contact with the rear teeth - the
ones that typcially start a kickback.

Separate issue - dados - the EU OSHA doesn't allow "blind cuts"
on a table saw - that is cuts like rabbets/rebates and dados.

charlie b

Just out of curiosity, how does one cut a dado in the EU? And stay
in compliance with the safety regs? And why do they think a dado is
more hazardous than just a blade?

David Starr

"David Starr" wrote in message
Just out of curiosity, how does one cut a dado in the EU?

With a router.

And why do they think a dado is more hazardous than just a blade?

Since you can't see the blade, people have been know to push the wood
through with their hand on top of the wood where the blade can come through
or they can push it past the blade while part of their hand is hanging over.
This type of accident has happened on router tables also.

On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 18:06:27 -0700, charlieb
wrote:

Separate issue - dados - the EU OSHA doesn't allow "blind cuts"
on a table saw - that is cuts like rabbets/rebates and dados.

They certainly do allow them -- although they don't like them, and they
have strong recommendations on either avoiding them, or how to guard
them.

And there isn't a single EU OSHA body anyway. Each country has its own,
and they talk about harmonisation between them.


All of this stuff is _very_ well documented by a library of PDFs on the
UK HSE site.

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"David Starr" wrote in message
Just out of curiosity, how does one cut a dado in the EU?

With a router.

And why do they think a dado is more hazardous than just a blade?

Since you can't see the blade, people have been know to push the wood
through with their hand on top of the wood where the blade can come through
or they can push it past the blade while part of their hand is hanging over.
This type of accident has happened on router tables also.

People have been known to run themselves over w/ their own automobiles,
too...

There's a point at which one just has to say "be careful".

imo, etc., ...

--

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
et...

"David Starr" wrote in message
Just out of curiosity, how does one cut a dado in the EU?

With a router.

And why do they think a dado is more hazardous than just a blade?

Since you can't see the blade, people have been know to push the wood
through with their hand on top of the wood where the blade can come
through or they can push it past the blade while part of their hand is
hanging over. This type of accident has happened on router tables also.

I know a guy with a commercial shop who dadoed one of his ring fingers off
completely... I keep that in mind whenever I make blind cuts.

Long ago I started using a Biesemeyer T-Square Anti-kickback Splitter on my
saws. The ability to easily remove and replace it encourages use. The
factory splitters are too much of a hassle...

John

On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 07:47:22 -0700, charlieb wrote:

About freakin' time. Won't keep you from cutting off a finger or two, but will go a long way towards reducing the number of kickbacks and projectile wood.
Hopefully they'll include a thin kerf and regular kerf riving knife with each new saw.
Not sure what they'll come up with for stacked dado blades - which is why the Euro equivalent of OSHA doesn't allow table saws to hold stacked dado blades.

charlie b

OH!
I was going to ask WHAT a riving knife was until I read that, Charlie...

The Ridgid TS that I bought a few months ago has one, if I'm understanding you..
and I have no problem with it at all... also has an anti-kick back spur on each
side of it, and I'm glad that they're there...

OTOH, when I'm doing dados, the whole assembly including the plastic blade guard
comes off with one wing nut, which the new regulations might not allow..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 14:29:10 -0400, "Upscale" wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
I have never used a riving knife but many will raise and lower with the
blade. Safer? I don't know.

My guess is that they're safer than a splitter. As well as some raising and
lowering with the blade, they usually match the curvature of the blade.
Seems to be a much more encompassing protection against kickback.

You can say that again... (and did) *g*


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 18:15:17 -0700, charlieb wrote:

Leon wrote:

I have never used a riving knife but many will raise and lower with the
blade. Safer? I don't know.

Look at the second picture on this page.
http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/X31/X31.html
Note that the riving knife
a) is close the the blade and wraps around almost all of the
top rear quarter of the blade - where the teeth that
typically start a kickback are located
b) is attached to the saw arbor so as the blade is raised or
lowered - or tilted, the riving knife stays close to the blade

A splitter on the other hand is often
a) increases the distance between it and the back of the blade
as the depth of cut gets smaller
b) may or may not follow the blade when it's tilted
(the ones attached to the throat plate don't work when
the blade is tilted)

charlie b

Ok... I'm getting educated here.. My saw has a splitter, not a riving knife..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 16:22:15 -0400, "Upscale" wrote:


"Swingman" wrote in message

For any safety device to ultimately be effective, it needs to be more
convenient to use than not.

Good point. That's something that isn't mentioned too often, but it is one
of the more important factors. You can come up with all the improvements in
the world, but it they're not convenient to use, then they're mostly
discarded. As humans, we're a lazy bunch of SOB's aren't we?


I sure am... *g*

I remember Shopsmith sending me a metal blade shroud and DC port thingy years
ago as a safety upgrade..

Never used it because it would add at least 10 minutes to the changeover time
when you were doing anything BUT sawing...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Jul 21, 10:47 am, charlieb wrote:
Leon wrote:

If you are going to buy a new TS in the near future and think that
there are too many safety devices on the TS's now, you better buy one now
before the UL regulations require the new TS's to be equipped with a riving
knife.

For the rest of us, this is probably good news.

The bait has been cast. ;~)

About freakin' time. Won't keep you from cutting off a finger or
two,
but will go a long way towards reducing the number of kickbacks and
projectile wood. Hopefully they'll include a thin kerf and regular
kerf
riving knife with each new saw. Not sure what they'll come up with
for stacked dado blades - which is why the Euro equivalent of OSHA
doesn't allow table saws to hold stacked dado blades.

charlie b

Kickback ceased being a problem after I upgraded to a t-square
fence and aligned it dead on parallel to the blade. Helps also to
never
leave a rip hanging between the fence and the heel of the blade.

As for taking off fingers, note that the front of the blade is less
likely to pull your hand in than the heel of the blade.

"Father Haskell" wrote in message

Kickback ceased being a problem after I upgraded to a t-square
fence and aligned it dead on parallel to the blade.

Completely untrue. A properly aligned fence can go a long way to preventing
kickbacks, but it certainly does not entirely eliminate the possibility of
it happening. Kickbacks can happen for other reasons than fence
misalignment.

Leon wrote:
If you are going to buy a new TS in the near future and think that
there are too many safety devices on the TS's now, you better buy one now
before the UL regulations require the new TS's to be equipped with a riving
knife.

For the rest of us, this is probably good news.

The bait has been cast. ;~)

http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/...34afd30b9.aspx


Since when does UL write binding rules?

It is a private company that inspects merchandise for insurance
purposes. It is not a government agency.

Dang ... the hook fell off the line ... lookit that, Vern!

--
I'm not not at the above address.
http://nmwoodworks.com


---
avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
Virus Database (VPS): 000758-3, 07/22/2007
Tested on: 7/22/2007 2:12:31 PM
avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2007 ALWIL Software.
http://www.avast.com

On Jul 22, 1:42 pm, "Upscale" wrote:
"Father Haskell" wrote in message

Kickback ceased being a problem after I upgraded to a t-square
fence and aligned it dead on parallel to the blade.

Completely untrue. A properly aligned fence can go a long way to preventing
kickbacks, but it certainly does not entirely eliminate the possibility of
it happening. Kickbacks can happen for other reasons than fence
misalignment.

Most of those reasons having to do with the rising back end of the
blade, which that sharkfin shaped riving knife is designed to
address.
Honestly, though, the day I got my Biesemeyer dead aligned (with the
help of a dial indicator) is the day kickback stopped.

Father Haskell wrote:

Kickback ceased being a problem after I upgraded to a t-square
fence and aligned it dead on parallel to the blade.

That'll take care of ONE potential causes of kickbacks.
There are several more causes, some not so obvious.
Ever had a board you're ripping "cross its legs" - behind
the blade? How about having it "spread its legs" behind the
blade - and push the back INTO the rear teeth - the ones
coming UP out of the throat plate that'll try and lift the
board UP into the teeth spinning TOWARDS YOU?

Being one who doesn't enjoy having wood try and kill me,
I did a bit of research and some thinking and then put
together the following for my own use. Figured once
I'd done that the info might save someone else some
grief so I put them on my site. Guess it's time to post
the url to that stuff.

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/K...KickBack1.html


Helps also to
never leave a rip hanging between the fence and the heel of the blade.

Or have a long unsupported board tilt up off the back of the
table saw - raising the end up into the KILLER REAR TEETH.

Also not a good idea to be ripping a long board and have it
stopped by some obstruction behind the saw. Hard to keep
control of the board AND find the OFF switch.

How about if the back of your throat plate is just a hair
lower than the table top - AND the part you're ripping
deforms DOWN and the edge catches in that little step
between the table top and the back of the throat plate?

As for taking off fingers, note that the front of the blade is less
likely to pull your hand in than the heel of the blade.

That seems counter intuitive. The rear quarter of the
blade has teeth pushing UP and at some point FOREWARD.
The top front quadrant is pushing up and at some point
DOWNWARD. Could you explain more please?

charlie b

" Since when does UL write binding rules?

It is a private company that inspects merchandise for insurance purposes.
It is not a government agency.

Dang ... the hook fell off the line ... lookit that, Vern!


True, and on certain and many jobsites, the tools have to be UL listed for
the insurance coverage of the site ( workman's comp, liability, etc). I was
working on a hotel recently in which the tile guy was temporarily kicked off
for not having a UL listed tile saw. I would imagine that the same could be
held to be true in wood working shops that employ as well. Insurance
companies denying coverage or raising premiums sky high because you aren't
using a UL listed saw.

Allen

"Father Haskell" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jul 22, 1:42 pm, "Upscale" wrote:
"Father Haskell" wrote in message

Kickback ceased being a problem after I upgraded to a t-square
fence and aligned it dead on parallel to the blade.

Completely untrue. A properly aligned fence can go a long way to
preventing
kickbacks, but it certainly does not entirely eliminate the possibility
of
it happening. Kickbacks can happen for other reasons than fence
misalignment.

Most of those reasons having to do with the rising back end of the
blade, which that sharkfin shaped riving knife is designed to
address.
Honestly, though, the day I got my Biesemeyer dead aligned (with the
help of a dial indicator) is the day kickback stopped.



You still need to be cautious. If the board starts to close up behind the
blade it can still pinch the blade and be thrown back at you. A heavy hand
will help to prevent this but a dead parallel fence will not help in this
matter.

"Leon" wrote in message
t...

"Father Haskell" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jul 22, 1:42 pm, "Upscale" wrote:
"Father Haskell" wrote in message

Kickback ceased being a problem after I upgraded to a t-square
fence and aligned it dead on parallel to the blade.

Completely untrue. A properly aligned fence can go a long way to
preventing
kickbacks, but it certainly does not entirely eliminate the possibility
of
it happening. Kickbacks can happen for other reasons than fence
misalignment.

Honestly, though, the day I got my Biesemeyer dead aligned (with the
help of a dial indicator) is the day kickback stopped.



You still need to be cautious. If the board starts to close up behind the
blade it can still pinch the blade and be thrown back at you. A heavy
hand will help to prevent this but a dead parallel fence will not help in
this matter.

Missing the point. Feed problems are one thing, WOOD problems another. I'm
one who keeps that 32nd extra on the far end of the fence, and I usually
have a featherboard in my left hand to hold the fed piece to the fence just
prior to the blade. Optimum situation which is sometimes frustrated by the
wood twisting and kerf closing as one becomes two. Most expensive fence set
with the most expensive device won't prevent problems there.

Still asking why anyone's standing in a place where a kickback piece could
even get to them when cutting. Seems stupid. Stand where if it runs back
it hits the wall, not you.

"George" wrote in message

Still asking why anyone's standing in a place where a kickback piece could
even get to them when cutting. Seems stupid. Stand where if it runs back
it hits the wall, not you.

There can be mitigating circumstances. I use a wheelchair and don't have the
reach or capability to stand completely out of the way while still being
able to control the feed of a length of wood. Yeah, I could do things like
buying an automatic feeder or use other exotic machinery, but like most
woodworkers, money is not in abundant supply with me.

"George" wrote in message
news



Missing the point. Feed problems are one thing, WOOD problems another.

Regardless, both come into play and must be delt with.



I'm one who keeps that 32nd extra on the far end of the fence, and I
usually
have a featherboard in my left hand to hold the fed piece to the fence
just prior to the blade.

The problem I have with that is that the waste side of the cut tends to come
in contact with the back side of the blade. The then requires the waste
side, "if it is going to be used as a keeper" to be run through the jointer
to smooth the edge be fore running through the saw again. Properly set up
you should never have to run the board through the jointer after a TS cut to
clean up an edge.


Optimum situation which is sometimes frustrated by the
wood twisting and kerf closing as one becomes two. Most expensive fence
set with the most expensive device won't prevent problems there.

Agreed/


Still asking why anyone's standing in a place where a kickback piece could
even get to them when cutting. Seems stupid. Stand where if it runs back
it hits the wall, not you.

Where is it that you think a kick back will not get you? I have seen kick
backs come over the top of the fence. Any where behind the blade is a
vulnerable spot, some more than others.

"Leon" wrote in message
t...
I'm one who keeps that 32nd extra on the far end of the fence, and I
usually
have a featherboard in my left hand to hold the fed piece to the fence
just prior to the blade.

The problem I have with that is that the waste side of the cut tends to
come in contact with the back side of the blade. The then requires the
waste side, "if it is going to be used as a keeper" to be run through the
jointer to smooth the edge be fore running through the saw again.
Properly set up you should never have to run the board through the jointer
after a TS cut to clean up an edge.


Oh hogwash. If you push the piece straight ahead, it doesn't contact the
blade on the waste side. Unless you overfeed and the blade squirms. Not to
mention that it's a good practice to rip oversize to allow for a tad of
strain relief on the wood, especially where the grainis changing angles fast
relative to the surfaces.


Optimum situation which is sometimes frustrated by the
wood twisting and kerf closing as one becomes two. Most expensive fence
set with the most expensive device won't prevent problems there.

Agreed/


Still asking why anyone's standing in a place where a kickback piece
could even get to them when cutting. Seems stupid. Stand where if it
runs back it hits the wall, not you.

Where is it that you think a kick back will not get you? I have seen kick
backs come over the top of the fence. Any where behind the blade is a
vulnerable spot, some more than others.


So don't stand behind the blade, stand to the side where the switch is
located.

"George" wrote in message
et...


Oh hogwash. If you push the piece straight ahead, it doesn't contact the
blade on the waste side.

LOL If your fence is offset at the back end, you "can not" push the board
parallel to the blade.
The wood does in fact come in contact with the back side of the blade other
wise what do you accomplish by off setting the fence.

Unless you overfeed and the blade squirms. Not to
mention that it's a good practice to rip oversize to allow for a tad of
strain relief on the wood, especially where the grainis changing angles
fast relative to the surfaces.

Perhap a good practice for some but I absolutely never ever cut over size
for the reason you stated.


Where is it that you think a kick back will not get you? I have seen
kick backs come over the top of the fence. Any where behind the blade is
a vulnerable spot, some more than others.


So don't stand behind the blade, stand to the side where the switch is
located.

I have stood some 2' to the right of blade, farther away from the blade
than the switch, and have had a piece fly back at me up at a 45 degree
angle from the blade.