I have built a couple of small sized 10-drawer chests. 18"W X 18"H X 10"D
I decided to use the Minwax Polyacrylic finish on it. I have tried my best
to coat the tops without leaving brushmarks.

I bought the best water-base brush I could find, and I have tried at least 6
coats and still have not been able to coat it without leaving these marks.
I have even gone against the advice on the can, and thinned it out, for a
couple of trials. Nothing seems to work. I now have them sanded smooth
again with 400 grit. I don't seem to have this problem with Polyeurethane,
but I am afraid to coat over the water base clear with the polyurethane now.

Does anyone know if the polyurethane can safely be used over the water based
clear coat. Thanks, Ray

Yes, some people have used acrylic base coats for speed & then finished with
a top coat of polyurethane for better protection. Personally I prefer
waterlox wiped on with a cotton rag. I hear the wipe on ploy is good too.


"Ray" wrote in message
...
I have built a couple of small sized 10-drawer chests. 18"W X 18"H X 10"D
I decided to use the Minwax Polyacrylic finish on it. I have tried my
best
to coat the tops without leaving brushmarks.

I bought the best water-base brush I could find, and I have tried at least
6
coats and still have not been able to coat it without leaving these marks.
I have even gone against the advice on the can, and thinned it out, for a
couple of trials. Nothing seems to work. I now have them sanded smooth
again with 400 grit. I don't seem to have this problem with
Polyeurethane,
but I am afraid to coat over the water base clear with the polyurethane
now.

Does anyone know if the polyurethane can safely be used over the water
based
clear coat. Thanks, Ray

On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 22:03:47 -0400, "Ray" wrote:

I have built a couple of small sized 10-drawer chests. 18"W X 18"H X 10"D
I decided to use the Minwax Polyacrylic finish on it. I have tried my best
to coat the tops without leaving brushmarks.

I bought the best water-base brush I could find, and I have tried at least 6
coats and still have not been able to coat it without leaving these marks.
I have even gone against the advice on the can, and thinned it out, for a
couple of trials. Nothing seems to work. I now have them sanded smooth
again with 400 grit. I don't seem to have this problem with Polyeurethane,
but I am afraid to coat over the water base clear with the polyurethane now.

Does anyone know if the polyurethane can safely be used over the water based
clear coat. Thanks, Ray


Try a foam brush. The water based stuff dries so fast it doesn't seem
to have time to level. I've had good luck with the foam brushes,
being careful not to overbrush and stirring slowly to avoid making
bubbles.

Also, sometimes slightly warming the finish by setting the container
in hot water for 5-10 min. seems to help.

HTH,

Paul

On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 22:03:47 -0400, "Ray" wrote:

Does anyone know if the polyurethane can safely be used over the water based clear coat.

Thanks, Ray

Hi, Ray.

If you have started with Minwax, could it be safe to say you are
buying your finishing products at one of the big boxes?

If so, they should have the solvent base poly. The highlight of
Minwax products is that they are made to be quite forgiving, so you
may be OK. But before you dig a deeper hole, try he


http://www.minwax.com/listserv/askminwax.cfm

Note there is a phone number under the address.

I hope you post your results after contacting them.

Robert

Paul Franklin wrote:
:

: Try a foam brush. The water based stuff dries so fast it doesn't seem
: to have time to level. I've had good luck with the foam brushes,
: being careful not to overbrush and stirring slowly to avoid making
: bubbles.

Even better than a foam brush (IME) is one of the flat paint
pads, with very short white bristles. Lays it on fast and
smooth. There's still some levelling to be done (I use a cabinet
scraper).


-- Andy Barss