I needed a straighter cut from my cheap Japanese-style pullsaw, and in
less time than it would have taken
to drive to the local woodworking store, I did a modification. It
works extremely well, vast improvement,
etc. The front 3 screws have to pass through the blade and you aren't
going to be able to drill through it
easily. I used a reinforced cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool. The
handle is made from 2 pieces of 3/8" ash.
http://www.edswoods.com/appendix.html

On Apr 7, 3:48 pm, " wrote:
I needed a straighter cut from my cheap Japanese-style pullsaw, and in
less time than it would have taken
to drive to the local woodworking store, I did a modification. It
works extremely well, vast improvement,
etc. The front 3 screws have to pass through the blade and you aren't
going to be able to drill through it
easily. I used a reinforced cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool. The
handle is made from 2 pieces of 3/8" ash.http://www.edswoods.com/appendix.html

One trick for putting holes through hardened material like that saw is
to anneal a spot by chucking up a nail in a drill and spinning the
head where you are going to make the hole, the friction will bring
that spot to a red heat rather fast. Then you can drill.

Think warm fuzzy, not gloat.



JOAT
In the rough is just enough.

On Apr 7, 5:14 pm, (J T) wrote:
Think warm fuzzy, not gloat.

JOAT
In the rough is just enough.

Yeah! That's what I meant.

One trick for putting holes through hardened material like that saw is
to anneal a spot by chucking up a nail in a drill and spinning the
head where you are going to make the hole, the friction will bring
that spot to a red heat rather fast. Then you can drill.

Thanks. I would've much preferred drilling the hole.

I needed a straighter cut from my cheap Japanese-style pullsaw, and in
less time than it would have taken
to drive to the local woodworking store, I did a modification.
http://www.edswoods.com/appendix.html

I'm glad you got a saw you're happy with, but I thought the point of a
Japanese saw was that it didn't NEED a ridgid spine, because it keeps
itself straight as you pull it. Also, don't you use the other
(ripping) side of the saw? (Assuming that's a Ryoba-style blade...)
That said, I have a Dozuki "Z" saw with a ridgid metal spine up part
of the back of the blade, and it makes a VERY fine crosscut. But so
does my Ryoba (two-sided, non-ridgid) saw. I've found the
straightness of cuts with both saws depends a lot on technique, which
I'm still practicing...
Thanks for sharing your pictures,
Andy

I don't understand. Why take a two sided saw blade - or for
ripping, one for cross cutting, and make it into a japanese
version of a back saw? The whole reason for no spine on that
saw is so that you can rip down a board. The wood "spine"
prevents that.

Am I missing something?

charlie b

Using a mirror to reference a mark on the back side of the slab was a
big help for me.

On 8 Apr 2007 09:25:20 -0700, "Andy" wrote:

I've found the
straightness of cuts with both saws depends a lot on technique, which
I'm still practicing...

On Apr 7, 4:43 pm, "beecrofter" wrote:
On Apr 7, 3:48 pm, " wrote:

I needed a straighter cut from my cheap Japanese-style pullsaw, and in
less time than it would have taken
to drive to the local woodworking store, I did a modification. It
works extremely well, vast improvement,
etc. The front 3 screws have to pass through the blade and you aren't
going to be able to drill through it
easily. I used a reinforced cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool. The
handle is made from 2 pieces of 3/8" ash.http://www.edswoods.com/appendix.html

One trick for putting holes through hardened material like that saw is
to anneal a spot by chucking up a nail in a drill and spinning the
head where you are going to make the hole, the friction will bring
that spot to a red heat rather fast. Then you can drill.

Another trick I got from a machinist is when he needs to drill
sokmething tough like that sawblade or stainless steel . . he uses a
carbide masonry bit.

nahmie

On Apr 8, 5:24 pm, charlieb wrote:
I don't understand. Why take a two sided saw blade - or for
ripping, one for cross cutting, and make it into a japanese
version of a back saw? The whole reason for no spine on that
saw is so that you can rip down a board. The wood "spine"
prevents that.

Am I missing something?

charlie b

I'm aware that there are a few pull-backsaws
on the market, but as I said im my original post, it was a rough-and
ready
solution. Here I was in my shop needing to make the cut
and the saw wasn't cooperating, having
that "bend point" where the blade meets the handle. I have several
of those blades
laying around which I resharpen and modify in other ways, they're good
to have on hand, costing only about 12.00 apiece. Sometimes,
"unofficial" tools
work out best. And when they're
completely worn out, they're great for flipping Japanese delicacies on
the hibachi...

On Apr 9, 1:38 pm, "Nahmie" wrote:
On Apr 7, 4:43 pm, "beecrofter" wrote:

On Apr 7, 3:48 pm, " wrote:

I needed a straighter cut from my cheap Japanese-style pullsaw, and in
less time than it would have taken
to drive to the local woodworking store, I did a modification. It
works extremely well, vast improvement,
etc. The front 3 screws have to pass through the blade and you aren't
going to be able to drill through it
easily. I used a reinforced cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool. The
handle is made from 2 pieces of 3/8" ash.http://www.edswoods.com/appendix.html

One trick for putting holes through hardened material like that saw is
to anneal a spot by chucking up a nail in a drill and spinning the
head where you are going to make the hole, the friction will bring
that spot to a red heat rather fast. Then you can drill.

Another trick I got from a machinist is when he needs to drill
sokmething tough like that sawblade or stainless steel . . he uses a
carbide masonry bit.

nahmie

I found that the bit wandered a lot and I didn't want to try punching
the spot first, so I made the
hole with a carbide grinding bit in a die grinder - softened the steel
and drilled the hole at
the same time. But if you try this, make sure to clamp the blade
down. A friend of mine
had to get 15 stitches in his thumb not long ago from trying to drill
a hole in a metal
switch plate in a drill press.

On Apr 9, 3:31 am, wrote:
Using a mirror to reference a mark on the back side of the slab was a
big help for me.

I've often wondered, when you first begin to sense that a cut is
going awry,
isn't it too late?