As you can guess, mine aren't. I think it's causing alignment problems
with the dovetails made with my Leigh D4. So, with a Porter Cable 690
router, what is the way I get my bushings centered? The bushings screw
in to the center hole, so they can't be adjusted. I hesitate to
enlarge the holes in the base - that would allow me to adjust the
centering, but it would probably also allow the base to slip, game
over.

Help??
=====
Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
=====
{remove curly brackets for email}

On Mar 5, 8:10 pm, Chuck wrote:
As you can guess, mine aren't. I think it's causing alignment problems
with the dovetails made with my Leigh D4. So, with a Porter Cable 690
router, what is the way I get my bushings centered?

As I understand it, the key isn't to center the bushing (as you said
they screw in and are fixed) but to center the whole sub-base before
you tighten the screws that hold the sub-base to the base. My DW618
came with a "centering tool" (cone + pin). You can loosen the sub-
base screws, chuck the pin in your collet, slide the cone over the
pin, and then lower the pin+cone until it hits the sub-base. The cone
centers the sub-base, and then you tighten the screws while the sub-
base is held at the center by the cone. Did that make sense? I found
a similar item available after a quick google search; it looks like
it's all one piece with a smaller diameter than my "cone", so it might
only work with the bushing already installed. Only $5.99 at Amazon,
with free shipping if you can come up with another $19.01 of something
you need.
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-RA1150-C.../dp/B0006BD7VM
I'm sure there are several other similar items available if you do
some more detailed searching.
Good luck,
Andy

Chuck wrote in
news
As you can guess, mine aren't. I think it's causing alignment problems
with the dovetails made with my Leigh D4. So, with a Porter Cable 690
router, what is the way I get my bushings centered? The bushings screw
in to the center hole, so they can't be adjusted. I hesitate to
enlarge the holes in the base - that would allow me to adjust the
centering, but it would probably also allow the base to slip, game
over.

Help??
=====
Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
=====
{remove curly brackets for email}


Most of the wooddorking outlets well a centering pin that chucks up into
the router, allowing you to center the base on your router. I got mine at
Rockler. Can't have cost more than $10, prolly less.

Patriarch

On 5 Mar 2007 17:40:56 -0800, "Andy" wrote:

On Mar 5, 8:10 pm, Chuck wrote:
As you can guess, mine aren't. I think it's causing alignment problems
with the dovetails made with my Leigh D4. So, with a Porter Cable 690
router, what is the way I get my bushings centered?

As I understand it, the key isn't to center the bushing (as you said
they screw in and are fixed) but to center the whole sub-base before
you tighten the screws that hold the sub-base to the base. My DW618
came with a "centering tool" (cone + pin). You can loosen the sub-
base screws, chuck the pin in your collet, slide the cone over the
pin, and then lower the pin+cone until it hits the sub-base. The cone
centers the sub-base, and then you tighten the screws while the sub-
base is held at the center by the cone.

The problem in my experience is that usually when they tighten the
screws at the factory they overdo it and they actually depress into
the plastic. So as soon as you retighten the screws it goes right
back where it was. Or even worse, it stays there long enough to make
you think it's going to stay there, but the second time you do
anything with it it goes back where it was. So my advice is either
freshen up the counterbore surface, make new holes altogether, or get
a new subbase altogether.


-Leuf

Leuf wrote:
On 5 Mar 2007 17:40:56 -0800, "Andy" wrote:


On Mar 5, 8:10 pm, Chuck wrote:

As you can guess, mine aren't. I think it's causing alignment problems
with the dovetails made with my Leigh D4. So, with a Porter Cable 690
router, what is the way I get my bushings centered?

As I understand it, the key isn't to center the bushing (as you said
they screw in and are fixed) but to center the whole sub-base before
you tighten the screws that hold the sub-base to the base. My DW618
came with a "centering tool" (cone + pin). You can loosen the sub-
base screws, chuck the pin in your collet, slide the cone over the
pin, and then lower the pin+cone until it hits the sub-base. The cone
centers the sub-base, and then you tighten the screws while the sub-
base is held at the center by the cone.


The problem in my experience is that usually when they tighten the
screws at the factory they overdo it and they actually depress into
the plastic. So as soon as you retighten the screws it goes right
back where it was. Or even worse, it stays there long enough to make
you think it's going to stay there, but the second time you do
anything with it it goes back where it was. So my advice is either
freshen up the counterbore surface, make new holes altogether, or get
a new subbase altogether.


-Leuf
OR -

Put a tiny washer under the screwhead !!

The 690s base is countersunk, not counterbored.
"Leuf" wrote in message
...
On 5 Mar 2007 17:40:56 -0800, "Andy" wrote:

On Mar 5, 8:10 pm, Chuck wrote:
As you can guess, mine aren't. I think it's causing alignment problems
with the dovetails made with my Leigh D4. So, with a Porter Cable 690
router, what is the way I get my bushings centered?

As I understand it, the key isn't to center the bushing (as you said
they screw in and are fixed) but to center the whole sub-base before
you tighten the screws that hold the sub-base to the base. My DW618
came with a "centering tool" (cone + pin). You can loosen the sub-
base screws, chuck the pin in your collet, slide the cone over the
pin, and then lower the pin+cone until it hits the sub-base. The cone
centers the sub-base, and then you tighten the screws while the sub-
base is held at the center by the cone.

The problem in my experience is that usually when they tighten the
screws at the factory they overdo it and they actually depress into
the plastic. So as soon as you retighten the screws it goes right
back where it was. Or even worse, it stays there long enough to make
you think it's going to stay there, but the second time you do
anything with it it goes back where it was. So my advice is either
freshen up the counterbore surface, make new holes altogether, or get
a new subbase altogether.


-Leuf

"__ Bob __" wrote in message
...

Put a tiny washer under the screwhead !!

In a countersunk hole? Might not help the routers sliding ability with the
screwheads sticking out.

On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 02:51:10 GMT, "CW" wrote:

The 690s base is countersunk, not counterbored.

Okay then, new holes and new round head screws


-Leuf

You can get close; maybe within a few mils. You stand the best chance
with a plunger.
They pretty much stay on the same axis through the plunge stroke.
Not the case with your 690.
See link for pin centering:
http://patwarner.com/sundries.html
************************************************** ******




As you can guess, mine aren't. I think it's causing alignment
problems
with the dovetails made with my Leigh D4. So, with a Porter Cable 690
router, what is the way I get my bushings centered? The bushings screw
in to the center hole, so they can't be adjusted. I hesitate to
enlarge the holes in the base - that would allow me to adjust the
centering, but it would probably also allow the base to slip, game
over.

Help??
=====
Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
=====
{remove curly brackets for email}

"Chuck" wrote in message
news
As you can guess, mine aren't. I think it's causing alignment problems
with the dovetails made with my Leigh D4. So, with a Porter Cable 690
router, what is the way I get my bushings centered? The bushings screw
in to the center hole, so they can't be adjusted. I hesitate to
enlarge the holes in the base - that would allow me to adjust the
centering, but it would probably also allow the base to slip, game
over.

Help??
=====
Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
=====
{remove curly brackets for email}

That's why I purchased a DW 610 and later a DW 620. My 690 will not center
and when you raise and lower the router in the base, it moves off center
because of the design. I use my 690 in a table where it doesn't matter.

On the other hand, if you are careful not to rotate the router while using
it in the Leigh jig, it should compensate for any eccentricy .

On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 02:51:10 GMT, "CW" wrote:

The 690s base is countersunk, not counterbored.


If you don't know how to change a countersink into a counterbore,
perhaps you are in the wrong newsgroup, and maybe in the wrong hobby.
Used to be, folks took great pride in being able to make their own
jigs & fixtures. Nowadays, everyone wants to know where to buy a
solution.

On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 03:59:36 GMT, "Lowell Holmes"

That's why I purchased a DW 610 and later a DW 620. My 690 will not center
and when you raise and lower the router in the base, it moves off center
because of the design. I use my 690 in a table where it doesn't matter.

Aargh. That is disturbing because (1) I didn't think of it,
but you're right, that inclined ramp and pin are going to move all
over the place, and (2) making those fidgety little depth adjustments
is unavoidable when setting up for the dovetails. Question - did you
ever try the plunge base for the 690? I got the kit with two bases.

On the other hand, if you are careful not to rotate the router while using
it in the Leigh jig, it should compensate for any eccentricy .

I thought of that when I was having trouble, and took pains to
keep the router positioned exactly the same for every cut. Still had
problems. It could be that when you flip the guides going from tails
to pins that the eccentricity must be reversed or you get *twice* the
error. I don't know. And I don't know if it's even possible to
compensate for an error in-and-out as opposed to side-to-side, or an
error that occurs at some angle other than a right angle or parallel
to the work. I was never good at geometry.

To those who suggested an alignment pin, I've got one. The
problem is securing the sub-base after changing its long-term
positioning. I think new holes in the sub-base is the answer.

=====
Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
=====
{remove curly brackets for email}

"Chuck" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 03:59:36 GMT, "Lowell Holmes"

That's why I purchased a DW 610 and later a DW 620. My 690 will not center
snip
.. Question - did you
ever try the plunge base for the 690? I got the kit with two bases.

snip

Yes, but when I bought my soft start DW620, I quit using the 690 plunge
base.

"Chuck" wrote in message
news
As you can guess, mine aren't. I think it's causing alignment problems
with the dovetails made with my Leigh D4. So, with a Porter Cable 690
router, what is the way I get my bushings centered? The bushings screw
in to the center hole, so they can't be adjusted. I hesitate to
enlarge the holes in the base - that would allow me to adjust the
centering, but it would probably also allow the base to slip, game
over.

Help??
=====
Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
=====
{remove curly brackets for email}

Drill new larger flat bottoms holes in a different location on the base
plate. Use pan head screws and use a centering point un the collet to
center the plate.

the problem with the 690 is that as you adjust the depth of cut, the slop in
the mechanism will let the base move off center.

for use in dovetail jigs (I have the Leigh), the best solution is to
maintain the sma position in all of the routing. I use the cord position anh
handles to make sure that I am always in the same orientation. It is
important to keep the same positioning when you flip the guides to go from
tails to pins. If you are carefull and consistant, you can get good results,
but you do have to pay attention.....

I've been fighting with this issue for along time, and only recently decided
to start looking for another solution (new router). I haven't made any
decisions yet, but hopefully inthe next couple weeks I'll get a chance to
really dig in and see what the options are....

--JD


"Chuck" wrote in message
news
As you can guess, mine aren't. I think it's causing alignment problems
with the dovetails made with my Leigh D4. So, with a Porter Cable 690
router, what is the way I get my bushings centered? The bushings screw
in to the center hole, so they can't be adjusted. I hesitate to
enlarge the holes in the base - that would allow me to adjust the
centering, but it would probably also allow the base to slip, game
over.

Help??
=====
Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
=====
{remove curly brackets for email}

It isn't absolutely necessary to center your guide bushing when using a D4,
but if you don't, then it will be absolutely necessary to not rotate the
router while you are cutting both the pins and the tails. Put a mark on the
base of the router and then hold the router with this mark in the same
orientation while you are using it. The more that the guide bushing is off
center, the more important it will be to hold the router oriented the same
way.

Even though I center my bushings before use I always hold my router in the
same orientation while I'm using my D4R, or any other router application
where a centered bushing or bit to router base dimension is important (which
means almost any time the router is used without a guide bearing to
reference the bit to the work).

--
Charley

"Chuck" wrote in message
news
As you can guess, mine aren't. I think it's causing alignment problems
with the dovetails made with my Leigh D4. So, with a Porter Cable 690
router, what is the way I get my bushings centered? The bushings screw
in to the center hole, so they can't be adjusted. I hesitate to
enlarge the holes in the base - that would allow me to adjust the
centering, but it would probably also allow the base to slip, game
over.

Help??
=====
Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
=====
{remove curly brackets for email}

On Tue, 6 Mar 2007 08:35:52 -0500, "jd" wrote:

I've been fighting with this issue for along time, and only recently decided
to start looking for another solution (new router). I haven't made any
decisions yet, but hopefully inthe next couple weeks I'll get a chance to
really dig in and see what the options are....

I'm inclined the same way - put the 690 in the table and get
another router for fine work. The Bosch D-handle EVS (forgot the
number, but it goes for $200) claims to have an adjustable sub-base
specifically for centering the bushings. It gets good reviews. Maybe
this will be the 'treat' I get myself for saving $10,000 by building
my own chest-on-chest.
First I'll try new holes in the 690 plunging unit sub-base
.......

=====
Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
=====
{remove curly brackets for email}