On Feb 7, 2:02 pm, Ike wrote:
Q1: The foam crown molding we purchased has a very decorative pattern.
The pattern is very similar to the third molding shown on this site:

http://www.invitinghome.com/Crown_Mo...lding_List.htm

While it is possible to match the pattern when making a scarf or butt
joint, it is not possible in the corners as far as I can tell. To
further complicate matters, several of the corners are something other
than 90 degrees (20, 35, 45, etc.). What is the best way to handle the
inside and outside corners? Just make the cut and match the best you
can? Use some caulk to feather in the mismatched contours? Show guests
your new crown molding with the lights dimmed?

Q2: We have bull-nosed outside corners. This means there will be a
small gap at the bottom where the molding meets in these corners.
Would it be best to cut small quarter round plugs out of 1" thick wood
that would slip up into these gaps? Or, does it work just as well to
fill the gap with a little caulk, smooth it out, and let it go at
that?

Caulking is usually necessary along the ceiling and the wall to
compensate for waviness and can make up for some minor mismatches at
the corners. However, you should get the best joints you can no
matter what the corner angles are. To do this you must measure the
corner angles with a tool like the angle gauge from Starret or similar
and then make the cut using a compound miter saw according to the
proper settings for that angle. These settings can be found in charts
available from a guy named Drake at www.compoundmiter.com. He also
sells some angle gauges of his own and has a complete guide book. If
you want this job to turn out nice, you need to cut precise angles
because even a degree or 2 off can leave a large gap.

Rocky