I am installing slate in my hallway. I have 5 doors ( = 10 door
jambs) to shorten so I can slip the slate underneith the door jamb. I
checked ebay for electric door jamb saws and found $150 on up. A
little too much to justify for my project so I went to Home depot and
purchased one of those offset handle flush cut hand saws for $15.
After the first door jamb I decided "SCREW THIS!". I took the saw to
the garage and removed the pin holding the handle on then removed the
wooden handle. I pulled out my dullest sawsall blade and snaped to
about 2" long in my vise with a hammer. I then welded the broken saws
all blade to the flush cut saw where the wooden handle used to be.

SWEET!!!!!!!!!!

I took my new flush cut / sawzall blade and chucked it up in my
sawzall. I set the sawzall to a low speed (about 1.5 - 2) and it took
about 30 seconds per jamb.

I have decided to take out an "internet patent" on my new blade so if
you read about this on the internet and use it please send me $.50...
Ha... :-)

P.S. You could probabally drill the sawzall blade and bolt it to the
flush cut saw if you aren't blessed with a welder.

Sorry for the cross post with alt.homerepair but I am pretty darned
proud of myself!

On 28 Jan 2007 16:07:19 -0800, "Oughtsix" wrote:

I am installing slate in my hallway. I have 5 doors ( = 10 door
jambs) to shorten so I can slip the slate underneith the door jamb. I
checked ebay for electric door jamb saws and found $150 on up. A
little too much to justify for my project so I went to Home depot and
purchased one of those offset handle flush cut hand saws for $15.
After the first door jamb I decided "SCREW THIS!". I took the saw to
the garage and removed the pin holding the handle on then removed the
wooden handle. I pulled out my dullest sawsall blade and snaped to
about 2" long in my vise with a hammer. I then welded the broken saws
all blade to the flush cut saw where the wooden handle used to be.

SWEET!!!!!!!!!!

I took my new flush cut / sawzall blade and chucked it up in my
sawzall. I set the sawzall to a low speed (about 1.5 - 2) and it took
about 30 seconds per jamb.

I have decided to take out an "internet patent" on my new blade so if
you read about this on the internet and use it please send me $.50...
Ha... :-)

P.S. You could probabally drill the sawzall blade and bolt it to the
flush cut saw if you aren't blessed with a welder.

Sorry for the cross post with alt.homerepair but I am pretty darned
proud of myself!

You should be--you save 20 bucks over this
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/FCA-0001/Standard-Flush-Cut-Recip-Blade-Adapter

"Oughtsix" wrote in message
ps.com...
I pulled out my dullest sawsall blade and snaped to
about 2" long in my vise with a hammer. I then welded the broken saws
all blade to the flush cut saw where the wooden handle used to be.

SWEET!!!!!!!!!!

I took my new flush cut / sawzall blade and chucked it up in my
sawzall. I set the sawzall to a low speed (about 1.5 - 2) and it took
about 30 seconds per jamb.



Last time I trimmed jambs I just used a 12" long, fine tooth blade in the
Sawz-All.
Greg

In article om,
Oughtsix wrote:
...snipped... I pulled out my dullest sawsall blade and snaped to
about 2" long in my vise with a hammer. I then welded the broken saws
all blade to the flush cut saw where the wooden handle used to be.

SWEET!!!!!!!!!!

I took my new flush cut / sawzall blade and chucked it up in my
sawzall. I set the sawzall to a low speed (about 1.5 - 2) and it took
about 30 seconds per jamb.

American* ingenuity at its finest!

* Substitute appropriate country of origin here.


--
Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf.lonestar.org

I took my new flush cut / sawzall blade and chucked it up in my
sawzall. I set the sawzall to a low speed (about 1.5 - 2) and it took
about 30 seconds per jamb.

Interesting idea - glad it worked for you! I would have thought that
the super-flexible flushcut blade would tend to bind/fold/kink as it
gets pushed on the forward stroke of the sawzall. You apparently
didn't have any problem with this? Did you have any orbital action on
the cut?
Thanks for sharing,
Andy

I believe you are thinking of those very flexable japanese flush cut
saws. I didn't use one of those, I used one of these:
http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/111010American-
Saws-175933&cid=F6866714B73CE25BD7859492CB05B4A4
It has a very rigid blade and a spine on the back like a hand miter
saw. The handle sits about an inch and a half or so above the blade.
The handle is rivited in the center of the spine on the blade. There
is a little knob that acts as the second mounting point on the spine.
You push the knob and it releases the second mounting point allowing
you to pivot the blade 180 degrees making it a left handed cut instead
of a right handed cut. The blade is about 1/32" thick making it
perfect for cutting jambs. It was $14.98 at lowes (unfortunatey no
rosewood handle which I am sure hurt it's performance). Somebody on
the internet calls it an ofset hand dovetail saw.

The cuts I made with the sawzall were even smoother than the one I
made by hand. No splinters, no tearout.

Because there is a little bit of mass to the saw blade I used a slow
blade on my sawzall.

On Jan 28, 11:19 pm, "Andy" wrote:
I took my new flush cut / sawzall blade and chucked it up in my
sawzall. I set the sawzall to a low speed (about 1.5 - 2) and it took
about 30 seconds per jamb.Interesting idea - glad it worked for you! I would have thought that
the super-flexible flushcut blade would tend to bind/fold/kink as it
gets pushed on the forward stroke of the sawzall. You apparently
didn't have any problem with this? Did you have any orbital action on
the cut?
Thanks for sharing,
Andy

Sorry, one more try for a link:
http://www.amazon.com/Jack-13J-Dovet.../dp/B00008ZA11

On Jan 29, 2:26 am, "Oughtsix" wrote:
Sorry, one more try for a link:http://www.amazon.com/Jack-13J-Dovet.../dp/B00008ZA11

OK, that does make more sense. I was thinking something more like
this http://tinyurl.com/2jm5xx (Amazon "shark" saw) without any kind
of spine, which I've also seen at the big box stores for $15 or so.
So you welded the sawzall blade to the offset handle portion of the
American-style flush saw. Probably what you said in the original
post; I just had the wrong flush cut saw in my head. Got it.
Again, thanks for sharing!
Andy

I had the same dellema when installing about 600sf of flooring. I
ended up using my biscuit joiner with the depth stop removed. Worked
great.

Todd

On Jan 28, 7:07 pm, "Oughtsix" wrote:
I am installing slate in my hallway. I have 5 doors ( = 10 door
jambs) to shorten so I can slip the slate underneith the door jamb. I
checked ebay for electric door jamb saws and found $150 on up. A
little too much to justify for my project so I went to Home depot and
purchased one of those offset handle flush cut hand saws for $15.
After the first door jamb I decided "SCREW THIS!". I took the saw to
the garage and removed the pin holding the handle on then removed the
wooden handle. I pulled out my dullest sawsall blade and snaped to
about 2" long in my vise with a hammer. I then welded the broken saws
all blade to the flush cut saw where the wooden handle used to be.

SWEET!!!!!!!!!!

I took my new flush cut / sawzall blade and chucked it up in my
sawzall. I set the sawzall to a low speed (about 1.5 - 2) and it took
about 30 seconds per jamb.

I have decided to take out an "internet patent" on my new blade so if
you read about this on the internet and use it please send me $.50...
Ha... :-)

P.S. You could probabally drill the sawzall blade and bolt it to the
flush cut saw if you aren't blessed with a welder.

Sorry for the cross post with alt.homerepair but I am pretty darned
proud of myself!