Hello all,

I've changed the horse in midstream. After applying one coat Watco to
Butternut inset panels (because I like the darkened look) on a
Walnut-framed bookcase and final assembling, I decided to finish the
Walnut in tung oil (to minimize darkening). I was going to shellac
over all, but decided against it. So, being that the bookcase is
already assembled, is tung oil over Watco (single cured application)
going to be a problem? Anyone done this? BTW, I DAGS and the results
were neither definitive nor recent so I thight some new information
might be appropriate.

TIA

Sid

The first thing to do is to test it on a scrap piece of wood.

I was unable to get the product information for Watco Danish oil on the
internet.
Each company have their own recipe. Some use a mixture of polyurethane,
urethane, linseed, Tung oil and other stuff.
Conversely manufacturer of Tung oil also use their own blend. Minwax Tung
oil is almost like Danish oil. They blend a percentage of Tung oil with a
varnish base and other ingredients.
I have use Watco Danish oil (walnut) on solid maple wood book cases.
After ten years of looking at the walnut finish I got tired of it. I then
refinished the book cases and applied Clear natural Danish oil finish from
Deft a mixture of Tung oil and urethane. I applied a second coat using Tung
oil from Circa 1850. Which is a mixture of 65 % Tung oil with 35% solvent
as a dryer.
Tung oil will darken wood a little. I use it over pine to give it a honey
look before applying clear waterborne varnish.

\"Sidney" wrote in message
.. .
Hello all,

I've changed the horse in midstream. After applying one coat Watco to
Butternut inset panels (because I like the darkened look) on a
Walnut-framed bookcase and final assembling, I decided to finish the
Walnut in tung oil (to minimize darkening). I was going to shellac
over all, but decided against it. So, being that the bookcase is
already assembled, is tung oil over Watco (single cured application)
going to be a problem? Anyone done this? BTW, I DAGS and the results
were neither definitive nor recent so I thight some new information
might be appropriate.

TIA

Sid

"Sidney" wrote in message
.. .
Hello all,

I've changed the horse in midstream. After applying one coat Watco to
Butternut inset panels (because I like the darkened look) on a
Walnut-framed bookcase and final assembling, I decided to finish the
Walnut in tung oil (to minimize darkening). I was going to shellac
over all, but decided against it. So, being that the bookcase is
already assembled, is tung oil over Watco (single cured application)
going to be a problem? Anyone done this? BTW, I DAGS and the results
were neither definitive nor recent so I thight some new information
might be appropriate.


You sacrifice a bit of clarity for "minimizing darkening." Not to mention
that a lot of people claim walnut lightens as it ages in. Tung polymerizes
into fairly large molecular weight strings, scattering light a bit. Sort of
"satin."

Other than that, you can consider you've put on a coat of sealer. Think the
recipe for Watco has returned to phenolic resin in a soy or linseed oil base
from the interim alkyd. Not a lot of resin, so should work.

In article ,
Sidney wrote:
Hello all,

I've changed the horse in midstream. After applying one coat Watco to
Butternut inset panels (because I like the darkened look) on a
Walnut-framed bookcase and final assembling, I decided to finish the
Walnut in tung oil (to minimize darkening). I was going to shellac
over all, but decided against it. So, being that the bookcase is
already assembled, is tung oil over Watco (single cured application)
going to be a problem? Anyone done this? BTW, I DAGS and the results
were neither definitive nor recent so I thight some new information
might be appropriate.

TIA

Sid


Watco is a mix of drying oil and varnish resins, it is probably
compatible with having the tung oil applied over but as far as
shading, I don't think you'll see any difference. Why not
just continue with the Watco? The neutral shade will make it no
darker than the tung oil would, but it will be a more protective finish
than tung oil, and you'll have no nagging worries about compatibility.

--
Often wrong, never in doubt.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland -

wrote:
The first thing to do is to test it on a scrap piece of wood.

I was unable to get the product information for Watco Danish oil on the
internet.
Each company have their own recipe. Some use a mixture of polyurethane,
urethane, linseed, Tung oil and other stuff.
Conversely manufacturer of Tung oil also use their own blend. Minwax Tung
oil is almost like Danish oil.

Correction, (yes this is a pet peeve of mine) That
is Minwax "Tung Oil Finish", right? The word "Finish"
is what clues one in that it is not just tung oil. I don't
know of any product labeled "Tung Oil" that is anything
but pure tung oil.

Danish Oil is usually just thinned linseed oil with driers
and colorants and maybe some resin or other oils. Any
other oil finish should go over it just fine. AFAIK there
are no oil finishes that have ingredients that make them
incompatible with other oil finishes.

Some people even put oil over shellac. I haven't seen
what that looks like, but they tell me it works fine.

(I know Mr/Ms Marierd was informing, not criticizing,
but IMHO those who DO criticize manufacturers for
selling tung oil finishes that are not 100% pure tung oil
are as justified as if they were criticizing a latex paint
manufacturer for selling latex paint that is not 100%
latex.)

--

FF

() wrote:

In article ,
Sidney wrote:
Hello all,

I've changed the horse in midstream. After applying one coat Watco
to Butternut inset panels (because I like the darkened look) on a
Walnut-framed bookcase and final assembling, I decided to finish the
Walnut in tung oil (to minimize darkening). I was going to shellac
over all, but decided against it. So, being that the bookcase is
already assembled, is tung oil over Watco (single cured application)
going to be a problem? Anyone done this? BTW, I DAGS and the
results were neither definitive nor recent so I thight some new
information might be appropriate.

TIA

Sid


Watco is a mix of drying oil and varnish resins, it is probably
compatible with having the tung oil applied over but as far as
shading, I don't think you'll see any difference. Why not
just continue with the Watco? The neutral shade will make it no
darker than the tung oil would, but it will be a more protective
finish than tung oil, and you'll have no nagging worries about
compatibility.


Larry,

The darkening I'm referring to occurs over time (months/years). It's
my understanding that this is less of a problem with tung oil--but I
could be mistaken about that as I haven't used tung oil before. The
walnut I used for this piece has some beautiful but subtle color
variations that I want to bring out, or at least avoid masking. I
suppose I could try the Watco on a test piece of the Walnut--but I
still have to wonder what it will do over time.

Sid
--

The following is offer for your perusal:

Check http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,190,42942.
I have a can of 100% pure Tung oil. Its as thick as molasses. You have to
dilute it with mineral spirit about 50/50 according to you preferences
I, at time, use it pure. It take much longer to penetrate and dry but the
finish is number one to me.
Where the game starts it when the manufacturers buy pure Tung oil from one
or two main supplier and mixed it with solvent.
Some manufacturer goes as far as using 65% mineral spirit and only 35% or
less pure Tung oil. Like you have said they labelled their product Tung Oil
finish. As a matter of fact Minwax Tung Oil finish is very attractive.
Other have the same composition and they use the name of Antique Finish. At
the end of the day it what you like and what shows best the furniture as a
whole.

wrote in message
ups.com...

wrote:
The first thing to do is to test it on a scrap piece of wood.

I was unable to get the product information for Watco Danish oil on the
internet.
Each company have their own recipe. Some use a mixture of polyurethane,
urethane, linseed, Tung oil and other stuff.
Conversely manufacturer of Tung oil also use their own blend. Minwax
Tung
oil is almost like Danish oil.

Correction, (yes this is a pet peeve of mine) That
is Minwax "Tung Oil Finish", right? The word "Finish"
is what clues one in that it is not just tung oil. I don't
know of any product labeled "Tung Oil" that is anything
but pure tung oil.

Danish Oil is usually just thinned linseed oil with driers
and colorants and maybe some resin or other oils. Any
other oil finish should go over it just fine. AFAIK there
are no oil finishes that have ingredients that make them
incompatible with other oil finishes.

Some people even put oil over shellac. I haven't seen
what that looks like, but they tell me it works fine.

(I know Mr/Ms Marierd was informing, not criticizing,
but IMHO those who DO criticize manufacturers for
selling tung oil finishes that are not 100% pure tung oil
are as justified as if they were criticizing a latex paint
manufacturer for selling latex paint that is not 100%
latex.)

--

FF

wrote:

: wrote:
: The first thing to do is to test it on a scrap piece of wood.
:
: I was unable to get the product information for Watco Danish oil on the
: internet.
: Each company have their own recipe. Some use a mixture of polyurethane,
: urethane, linseed, Tung oil and other stuff.
: Conversely manufacturer of Tung oil also use their own blend. Minwax Tung
: oil is almost like Danish oil.

: Correction, (yes this is a pet peeve of mine) That
: is Minwax "Tung Oil Finish", right? The word "Finish"
: is what clues one in that it is not just tung oil.

Worse than that, "Tung Oil Finish" may contain zero tung oil.
If you want tung oil, get a can labeled 'tung oil'.


I don't
: know of any product labeled "Tung Oil" that is anything
: but pure tung oil.


Right. And as a suggestion, I've found that it builds better
using real turpentine, not mineral spirits, as a thinner.

: what that looks like, but they tell me it works fine.

: (I know Mr/Ms Marierd was informing, not criticizing,
: but IMHO those who DO criticize manufacturers for
: selling tung oil finishes that are not 100% pure tung oil
: are as justified as if they were criticizing a latex paint
: manufacturer for selling latex paint that is not 100%
: latex.)

Well, the conventional meaning of "latex paint" as "contains
latex" is fine with me. What I find objectionable is 'tung oil
finish' labelled as such when it contains no tung oil -- it's
like 'latex paint' that was, say, oil-based with no latex at all.

There's notnign wrong with the finishes that I've used that are
'tung oil finishes' -- I just wish they'd call them something else.


-- Andy Barss

In article ,
says...
Tung oil will darken wood a little. I use it over pine to give it a honey
look before applying clear waterborne varnish.


Tung oil may darken some timbers a little, I can vouch that it will darken
others A LOT. I used it on some (unknown) eucalyptus secies that I made a
hearth surround out of and it took the wood from light orange to dark dark
purply tinged brown in a few days.

I have used it on other woods and hardly noticed any change in colour at all.

Testing is essential, i.m.o.

-Peter

--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com

On Sun, 21 Jan 2007 09:06:22 -0500, "Sidney"
wrote:

Hello all,

I've changed the horse in midstream. After applying one coat Watco to
Butternut inset panels (because I like the darkened look) on a
Walnut-framed bookcase and final assembling, I decided to finish the
Walnut in tung oil (to minimize darkening). I was going to shellac
over all, but decided against it. So, being that the bookcase is
already assembled, is tung oil over Watco (single cured application)
going to be a problem? Anyone done this? BTW, I DAGS and the results
were neither definitive nor recent so I thight some new information
might be appropriate.

Well, what I like to do is fully immerse everything in Walnut oil for
two days because it's food-safe, then proceed to 2 coats of danish oil
because it makes the grain pop, 1 coat of tung oil because it is
"traditional", 3 coats of shellac (french polished, of course) to make
it shiny, then an oil-based poly for outdoor protection, 3 or 4 coats
of water-based poly to cover up the outgassing from the oil poly, and
then finish it off with a good primer and a coat of enamel paint, to
make sure that my careful finishing is protected. After that, I shine
up the paint with paste wax.

That'll teach that damn wood to mess with my extensive finish
collection!!!!

Seriously man, just pick a finish for the project and be happy with
it. Why go through all the headache of worrying about the
compatability of different products that do the same thing? Finish it
off with the Watco and enjoy your bookcase. If you don't like it,
strip it off and start over.

Sidney wrote:

I've changed the horse in midstream.

Always a bad idea for finishing.

is tung oil over Watco (single cured application) going to be a problem?

Sounds like a recipe for alligatoring in a couple of years.

Andrew Barss wrote:
wrote:

: wrote:
: The first thing to do is to test it on a scrap piece of wood.
:
: I was unable to get the product information for Watco Danish oil on the
: internet.
: Each company have their own recipe. Some use a mixture of polyurethane,
: urethane, linseed, Tung oil and other stuff.
: Conversely manufacturer of Tung oil also use their own blend. Minwax Tung
: oil is almost like Danish oil.

: Correction, (yes this is a pet peeve of mine) That
: is Minwax "Tung Oil Finish", right? The word "Finish"
: is what clues one in that it is not just tung oil.

Worse than that, "Tung Oil Finish" may contain zero tung oil.

I read that a lot.

Do you have a specific example?

I suspect it's one of Bob Flexner's straw men.

--

FF

wrote in message
ups.com...

Andrew Barss wrote:
wrote:

: wrote:
: The first thing to do is to test it on a scrap piece of wood.
:
: I was unable to get the product information for Watco Danish oil on
the
: internet.
: Each company have their own recipe. Some use a mixture of
polyurethane,
: urethane, linseed, Tung oil and other stuff.
: Conversely manufacturer of Tung oil also use their own blend. Minwax
Tung
: oil is almost like Danish oil.

: Correction, (yes this is a pet peeve of mine) That
: is Minwax "Tung Oil Finish", right? The word "Finish"
: is what clues one in that it is not just tung oil.

Worse than that, "Tung Oil Finish" may contain zero tung oil.

I read that a lot.

Do you have a specific example?

I suspect it's one of Bob Flexner's straw men.

--

FF

Just for your reading, you may want to have a look at:



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tung_oil

http://www.welch-holme-clark.com/tun...pec_-_veg.html

Sidney wrote:
Hello all,

I've changed the horse in midstream. After applying one coat Watco to
Butternut inset panels (because I like the darkened look) on a
Walnut-framed bookcase and final assembling, I decided to finish the
Walnut in tung oil (to minimize darkening). I was going to shellac
over all, but decided against it. So, being that the bookcase is
already assembled, is tung oil over Watco (single cured application)
going to be a problem? Anyone done this? BTW, I DAGS and the results
were neither definitive nor recent so I thight some new information
might be appropriate.

TIA

Sid

Sid,

I have used tung oil over Watco many times. It works fine.

Rudy