The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
maple frame. Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw.
The hinges are similar to these:
http://www.amazon.com/Concealed-Fram.../dp/B000KPZC80

Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works? I was
thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and still
be removeable.

In article . com, "RayV" wrote:
The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
maple frame. Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw.
The hinges are similar to these:
http://www.amazon.com/Concealed-Fram.../dp/B000KPZC80

Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works? I was
thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and still
be removeable.

Silicone is a reasonably good lubricant, so I wouldn't expect it to hold the
screws tighter. I believe I'd first try screws that are longer, thicker, or
both.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Doug Miller wrote:
In article . com, "RayV" wrote:
The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
maple frame. Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw.
The hinges are similar to these:
http://www.amazon.com/Concealed-Fram.../dp/B000KPZC80

Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works? I was
thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and still
be removeable.

Silicone is a reasonably good lubricant, so I wouldn't expect it to hold the
screws tighter. I believe I'd first try screws that are longer, thicker, or
both.

Doug Miller wrote:
In article . com, "RayV" wrote:
The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
maple frame. Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw.
The hinges are similar to these:
http://www.amazon.com/Concealed-Fram.../dp/B000KPZC80

Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works? I was
thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and still
be removeable.

Silicone is a reasonably good lubricant, so I wouldn't expect it to hold the
screws tighter. I believe I'd first try screws that are longer, thicker, or
both.

Doug Miller wrote:
In article . com, "RayV" wrote:
The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
maple frame. Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw.
The hinges are similar to these:
http://www.amazon.com/Concealed-Fram.../dp/B000KPZC80

Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works? I was
thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and still
be removeable.

Silicone is a reasonably good lubricant, so I wouldn't expect it to hold the
screws tighter. I believe I'd first try screws that are longer, thicker, or
both.



Sorry about the earlier blank posts.

For whatever reason the screws are not 'standard' wood screws. They
have a very harsh thread pattern more like particle board or MDF
screws. They are also only about 5/8 long. Longer screws are probably
the best idea plus it will give me an excuse to order something from
McFeeley's.

BTW by silicone I meant silicone caulk. If it holds well enough to
make a car jack necessary to remove a sink I figured it should hold a
screw.

I do not know what kind of screws or how much threads are going into the
maple wood.
You may have a long shoulder without threads not leaving enough thread
contact with the wood.
The quick fix is to remove the screw wet it with water and apply a little
drop of Gorilla Glue.
Then screw it back in to place and wait overnight before using the door or
doors.
The right way is to remove the screws and doors and insert a wooden dowel
impregnated with epoxy glue. Wait about 24 hours.
Then you have to measure the bottom of the screw thread and select a drill
size to match it. I recommend that you get a screw that has thread up to
its shoulder and make sure it is the right length.
The pilot holes have to be bored perpendicular to the vertical structure.
If you have many holes to make a drill jig would be a real asset. It will
save you time and make sure that you are boring the holes perpendicular (90
degrees) to the surface.
Before inserting the screws apply a little gorilla glue on it. If you are
using a drill to drive the screws make sure that the toque is adjusted as
not to strip the wood. It would be best to practice on a scrap piece of
wood first to validate your drill bit size and driving toque.


"RayV" wrote in message
ups.com...

Doug Miller wrote:
In article . com, "RayV"
wrote:
The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
maple frame. Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw.
The hinges are similar to these:
http://www.amazon.com/Concealed-Fram.../dp/B000KPZC80

Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works? I was
thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and still
be removeable.

Silicone is a reasonably good lubricant, so I wouldn't expect it to hold
the
screws tighter. I believe I'd first try screws that are longer, thicker,
or
both.



Sorry about the earlier blank posts.

For whatever reason the screws are not 'standard' wood screws. They
have a very harsh thread pattern more like particle board or MDF
screws. They are also only about 5/8 long. Longer screws are probably
the best idea plus it will give me an excuse to order something from
McFeeley's.

BTW by silicone I meant silicone caulk. If it holds well enough to
make a car jack necessary to remove a sink I figured it should hold a
screw.

wrote:
SNIP
The right way is to remove the screws and doors and insert a wooden dowel
impregnated with epoxy glue.

Screwing into end grain? BTDT didn't like it.

Besides, the screws are not stripped they just loosen up a little. I
suppose they will eventually strip out if I don't fix them properly but
by then SWMBO will want a new kitchen,... or house.

You do what you like its your problem.
AFAIC I have used this procedure (with two part epoxy) for a long time
without any problem.

"RayV" wrote in message
ps.com...

wrote:
SNIP
The right way is to remove the screws and doors and insert a wooden dowel
impregnated with epoxy glue.

Screwing into end grain? BTDT didn't like it.

Besides, the screws are not stripped they just loosen up a little. I
suppose they will eventually strip out if I don't fix them properly but
by then SWMBO will want a new kitchen,... or house.

I've had better luck using bamboo skewers instead of dowels.

On 20 Dec 2006 10:50:15 -0800, "RayV" wrote:


wrote:
SNIP
The right way is to remove the screws and doors and insert a wooden dowel
impregnated with epoxy glue.

Screwing into end grain? BTDT didn't like it.

Besides, the screws are not stripped they just loosen up a little. I
suppose they will eventually strip out if I don't fix them properly but
by then SWMBO will want a new kitchen,... or house.

RayV wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:

In article . com, "RayV" wrote:

The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
maple frame. Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw.
The hinges are similar to these:
http://www.amazon.com/Concealed-Fram.../dp/B000KPZC80

Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works? I was
thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and still
be removeable.

Silicone is a reasonably good lubricant, so I wouldn't expect it to hold the
screws tighter. I believe I'd first try screws that are longer, thicker, or
both.


Sorry about the earlier blank posts.

For whatever reason the screws are not 'standard' wood screws. They
have a very harsh thread pattern more like particle board or MDF
screws. They are also only about 5/8 long. Longer screws are probably
the best idea plus it will give me an excuse to order something from
McFeeley's.

BTW by silicone I meant silicone caulk. If it holds well enough to
make a car jack necessary to remove a sink I figured it should hold a
screw.

Silicone is a royal PITA. On some surfaces it sticks like nothing else.
e.g. electrical grade silicone used to secure the circuit board to the
neck of a TV or monitor tube typically cannot be removed from the glass
neck even with a razor blade. You can get the bulk of it off but the
last traces just will not come loose. OTOH we have all experienced
peeling silicone in the bathroom or kitchen, and its extremely difficult
to get a new bead to stick well.

My war stories with it all involve boats, and after many fastenings
backing out, sealing fillets peeling etc. I vowed *NEVER* to use it
again if there was any alternative. It only sticks properly to
perfectly clean surfaces and when it cures it contaminates any surface
that it doesnt stick to and in fact when its cured a fresh application
wont even stick to it. When it has failed to bond, it definately acts
as a lubricant and helps screws back out.

Many years ago, a professional boat-builder taught me to never put a
screw in dry. (Boats are a bit different to cabinet work as there is
always movement and changing humidity to contend with) He favoured
dipping the screws in varnish. I've had no trouble with screws working
loose unless they were seriously overloaded but have seen many screws
that were put in dry work loose.

If you are overloading the wood and the fibres are getting crushed, wood
hardener on the screws might help if varnish isn't enough but if you
have a real problem and cant go to longer screws, West Systems have a
lot of helpfull info at

http://www.westsystem.com/webpages/userinfo/manual/#bondingfastenersandhardware

The same technique can be used with most other brands of Epoxy but you
*MUST* follow the specific brand's mixing instructions, not the WEST ones.

If you ever want to get the screws out, they should be clean and shiny
(no rusty or chewed up ones) and you need to scrape a trace of candle
wax onto them then flow it evenly over the whole thread by applying
enough heat to melt the wax before inserting them into the hole with the
wet emoxy. Easy enough to do one at a time with a lighter flame or you
can wax a batch of screws in the bottom of a tin with a small lump of
wax and a hot air gun or other heat source. Waxing the screws
apparently weakens the fastening by about 10%. Even if you dont wax
them they can be got out by heating the head of the screw for about half
a minute with a 100W soldering gun immediately before trying to unscrew
them.


--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & 32K emails -- NUL:
'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Early 60's, Uffa Fox designed,
All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy.

RayV wrote:

Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works?

Epoxy.

After that, it's all downhill.

Lew

RayV wrote:
The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
maple frame. Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw.
The hinges are similar to these:
http://www.amazon.com/Concealed-Fram.../dp/B000KPZC80

Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works? I was
thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and still
be removeable.

I'd try a tiny dab of polyurethane. It's supposed to stick anything to
anything.

DonkeyHody

You can either improve the hole or glue the screw.

(1) find a dowel or match stick that just barely
fits in the hole. Dip in a epoxy glue and insert
it in the hole and let it dry. Using a "good"
screw, reinstall hinge.

(2) Dip screw in expoxy and reinstall hinge.
(Just a dab will it)

(3) Replace the hinges with a different model and
different screw locations.

I have "never" seen a hinge with "one" screw.

RayV wrote:
The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
maple frame.

Wed, Dec 20, 2006, 8:24am (EST-3) (RayV) doth
mumble:
snip Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw. snip I
was thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and
still be removeable.

Looks like three screw holes to me. I think four would be better.

You ask about silicone, but the subject says loctite. That's an
interesting thought. Personally, I think loctite might well hold, but
could give problems when removing screws. So I nominate you try
loctite, and get back to us on it. All in favor say aye. All opposed
say nay. OK, the ayes have it.



JOAT
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
- Eric Hoffer

J T wrote:
Wed, Dec 20, 2006, 8:24am (EST-3) (RayV) doth
mumble:
snip Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw. snip I
was thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and
still be removeable.

Looks like three screw holes to me. I think four would be better.

You ask about silicone, but the subject says loctite. That's an
interesting thought. Personally, I think loctite might well hold, but
could give problems when removing screws. So I nominate you try
loctite, and get back to us on it. All in favor say aye. All opposed
say nay. OK, the ayes have it.


OK, since the motion has carried for me to try loctite what color
should I use?

How much should I apply to each screw?

What setting on my torque rench should I use?

Damn, these are European hinges and my wrench only reads in ft/lbs.
Anyone have a conversion chart for torque wrenches?

RayV wrote:
J T wrote:
Wed, Dec 20, 2006, 8:24am (EST-3) (RayV) doth
mumble:
snip Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw. snip I
was thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and
still be removeable.

Looks like three screw holes to me. I think four would be better.

You ask about silicone, but the subject says loctite. That's an
interesting thought. Personally, I think loctite might well hold, but
could give problems when removing screws. So I nominate you try
loctite, and get back to us on it. All in favor say aye. All opposed
say nay. OK, the ayes have it.


OK, since the motion has carried for me to try loctite what color
should I use?

How much should I apply to each screw?

What setting on my torque rench should I use?

Damn, these are European hinges and my wrench only reads in ft/lbs.
Anyone have a conversion chart for torque wrenches?

Go for the green- sleeve retainer. Keep it moving. Improvise the rest.

J

On Thu, 21 Dec 2006 05:50:59 -0800, RayV wrote:

J T wrote:
Wed, Dec 20, 2006, 8:24am (EST-3) (RayV) doth
mumble:
snip Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw. snip I
was thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and
still be removeable.

Looks like three screw holes to me. I think four would be better.

You ask about silicone, but the subject says loctite. That's an
interesting thought. Personally, I think loctite might well hold, but
could give problems when removing screws. So I nominate you try
loctite, and get back to us on it. All in favor say aye. All opposed
say nay. OK, the ayes have it.


OK, since the motion has carried for me to try loctite what color
should I use?

How much should I apply to each screw?

What setting on my torque rench should I use?

Damn, these are European hinges and my wrench only reads in ft/lbs.
Anyone have a conversion chart for torque wrenches?

You haven't discovered the google calculator? Go to google and try this
search: "14.3 foot pounds in newton meters". Don't include the quotation
marks. I've found very few units that it won't convert.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...

You haven't discovered the google calculator? Go to google and try this
search: "14.3 foot pounds in newton meters". Don't include the quotation
marks. I've found very few units that it won't convert.

Huh, I'm impressed. Whoda thunk they covered this one?

14.3 (inches per second) = 1.14621067 × 10**20 angstroms per millenium

http://www.google.com/search?&q=14.3...er+ millenium

Maybe density, in AMUs per cubic parsec?

-- Mark

Mark Jerde (in WmCih.3330$Iy5.1541@trnddc01) said:

| "J. Clarke" wrote in message
| ...
|
|| You haven't discovered the google calculator? Go to google and
|| try this search: "14.3 foot pounds in newton meters". Don't
|| include the quotation marks. I've found very few units that it
|| won't convert.
|
| Huh, I'm impressed. Whoda thunk they covered this one?
|
| 14.3 (inches per second) = 1.14621067 W 10**20 angstroms per
| millenium
|
|
http://www.google.com/search?&q=14.3...n+angstroms+pe
r+millenium
|
| Maybe density, in AMUs per cubic parsec?

Or if you'd like to solve physics problems in user-friendly units, you
can ask for "c in furlongs per fortnight" (the speed of light =
1.8026175 × 1012 furlongs per fortnight.)

Watch out for rounding errors eg

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto

On Thu, 21 Dec 2006 20:44:38 +0000, Mark Jerde wrote:

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...

You haven't discovered the google calculator? Go to google and try this
search: "14.3 foot pounds in newton meters". Don't include the quotation
marks. I've found very few units that it won't convert.

Huh, I'm impressed. Whoda thunk they covered this one?

14.3 (inches per second) = 1.14621067 × 10**20 angstroms per millenium

http://www.google.com/search?&q=14.3...er+ millenium

Maybe density, in AMUs per cubic parsec?

Managed that one fine. The only thing I've tried that it won't handle is
inches of mercury as a unit of pressure.

-- Mark

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Thu, 21 Dec 2006 08:37:51 -0500, J T wrote:

Wed, Dec 20, 2006, 8:24am (EST-3) (RayV) doth
mumble:
snip Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw. snip I
was thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and
still be removeable.

Looks like three screw holes to me. I think four would be better.

You ask about silicone, but the subject says loctite. That's an
interesting thought. Personally, I think loctite might well hold, but
could give problems when removing screws. So I nominate you try
loctite, and get back to us on it. All in favor say aye. All opposed
say nay. OK, the ayes have it.

There are different grades of Loctite with different degrees of holding
strength, from "easily adjustable" to "heat it red hot and _maybe_ it'll
come out if you're having a good day".

When using Loctite with wood, go to the Loctite site and read the
technical information--it may need a primer in order to cure, the same
way that CA needs an accelerator.


JOAT
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. - Eric Hoffer

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

RayV wrote:
The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
maple frame. Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw.
The hinges are similar to these:
http://www.amazon.com/Concealed-Fram.../dp/B000KPZC80

Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works? I was
thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and still
be removeable.

Before I read the end of your post, clear silicone was what came to my
mind too.

The real problem here is the single screw holding the frame. This
allows for some rotation, which eventually loosens the screw. How about
replacing the hinges with a better design using at least two screws on
each hinge flange? Of course that could take a lot of time to do.

If you do go the glue route (which is probably what I would do), ask
yourself if you might ever want to undo the screw for any reason some
day. Epoxies and polyurethane/Gorilla glue would make that job
difficult or impossible; silicone would be a better choice IMO.

Mark

If you do go the glue route (which is probably what I would do), ask
yourself if you might ever want to undo the screw for any reason some
day. Epoxies and polyurethane/Gorilla glue would make that job
difficult or impossible; silicone would be a better choice IMO.

Mark

Maybe, however I have been using polyurethane to re-bed the SS screws on the
spray hood of my sailboat.
I remove the spray hood every 2 to 3 years and I do not have any problem to
remove the screws.
I also used Gorilla glue to re-bed screws in wood, presswood and plywood
with no problem.
As long as the Robertson, Phillip or slotted head is clean and the screw
driver has a firm and positive contact with the screw's head it works fine.
Over the years I have learned that it was better to use a old awl to clean
the screw head first
The worst are the Phillip head. A worn out Phillip screw driver is the worst
thing to use especially with a powered driver.
Using Locktite on metal to metal is a different kettle of fish.

"redbelly" wrote in message
ups.com...

RayV wrote:
The hinges on my kitchen cabinets screw into the inside edge of the
maple frame. Each hinge is only screwed to the frame with one screw.
The hinges are similar to these:
http://www.amazon.com/Concealed-Fram.../dp/B000KPZC80

Every once in a while I need to tighten up the screws as they work
loose. So I was thinking of putting something on the screws to keep
them from loosening up. Anybody ever try something that works? I was
thinking a little silicone in the screw hole would hold them and still
be removeable.

Before I read the end of your post, clear silicone was what came to my
mind too.

The real problem here is the single screw holding the frame. This
allows for some rotation, which eventually loosens the screw. How about
replacing the hinges with a better design using at least two screws on
each hinge flange? Of course that could take a lot of time to do.

If you do go the glue route (which is probably what I would do), ask
yourself if you might ever want to undo the screw for any reason some
day. Epoxies and polyurethane/Gorilla glue would make that job
difficult or impossible; silicone would be a better choice IMO.

Mark

redbelly98 wrote:
If you do go the glue route (which is probably what I would do), ask
yourself if you might ever want to undo the screw for any reason some
day. Epoxies and polyurethane/Gorilla glue would make that job
difficult or impossible; silicone would be a better choice IMO.


wrote:
Mark

Maybe, however I have been using polyurethane to re-bed the SS screws on the
spray hood of my sailboat.
I remove the spray hood every 2 to 3 years and I do not have any problem to
remove the screws.
I also used Gorilla glue to re-bed screws in wood, presswood and plywood
with no problem.

Thanks for the info, that is good to know. Surprising to me, but now I
can keep that in mind in the future.

As long as the Robertson, Phillip or slotted head is clean and the screw
driver has a firm and positive contact with the screw's head it works fine.
Over the years I have learned that it was better to use a old awl to clean
the screw head first
The worst are the Phillip head. A worn out Phillip screw driver is the worst
thing to use especially with a powered driver.
Using Locktite on metal to metal is a different kettle of fish.

Depends on which Loctite product you mean. Besides their superglue,
they do make threadlocker for machine screws where you can still remove
the screw later if you want.

Mark