I am using an 8" Delta jointer, and am experiencing "snipe" at the end
of each pass. For some reason the last 1.5" or so of board gets a
deeper cut, giving me an uneven board.

I've checked the Delta docs with no luck; any ideas on how to correct
this would be most appreciated.

If the rear table is adjustable the rear table needs to be adjusted up to be
level with the knives.
disconect power
loosen locknut on outfeed table gibs (ususlly centre bolt)
place straight edge on outfeed table and over knives
adjust rear table up untill you can rotate the cutter block by hand and
knives just touch straightedge when at top dead centre
tighten locknut on outfeed table gibs

If the outfeed table is not adjustable the knives need to be adjusted to be
set level with outfeed table.
disconect power
place straight edge on outfeed table and over knives
rotate the cutter block by hand and adjust all knives to just touch
straightedge when at top dead centre
tighten gibs

away you go and all should be well



"Hank Brandenburg" wrote in message
ups.com...
I am using an 8" Delta jointer, and am experiencing "snipe" at the end
of each pass. For some reason the last 1.5" or so of board gets a
deeper cut, giving me an uneven board.

I've checked the Delta docs with no luck; any ideas on how to correct
this would be most appreciated.

"Hank Brandenburg" wrote in message
ups.com...
I am using an 8" Delta jointer, and am experiencing "snipe" at the end
of each pass. For some reason the last 1.5" or so of board gets a
deeper cut, giving me an uneven board.

I've checked the Delta docs with no luck; any ideas on how to correct
this would be most appreciated.


Put your feed pressure against the fence and then on the outfeed
side.....take less off in each pass as well. Your most likely at the end of
the cut pushing down on the infeed side and rocking the board into the
blades......when I changed methods mine magically fixed itself....Rod

"Rod & Betty Jo" wrote in message
...

Put your feed pressure against the fence and then on the outfeed
side.....take less off in each pass as well. Your most likely at the end
of
the cut pushing down on the infeed side and rocking the board into the
blades......when I changed methods mine magically fixed itself....Rod



Yours was definatly a user error problem and a safety issue
Safety Rule Number 1
Your hands should never pass over the cutter head.

To place enough pressure above cutter block to force timber down into knives
would take considerable pressure. Your purpose at the driving end is simply
to guide the piece through. Only light downward pressure is required. The
size of each pass will not stop snipe, except a deeper cut will result in a
deeper snipe and a shallower cut a shalower snipe. Only light pressure is
required against teh fence to keep the piece in contact with fence. Exerting
more pressure than necessary only serves to increase the seriousnous of the
injury if something does go wrong ..... more pressure and fingers travel
further into cutter ....

A gentle hand is all that is needed to keep things flowing smoothly

Hank Brandenburg wrote:
I am using an 8" Delta jointer, and am experiencing "snipe" at the end
of each pass. For some reason the last 1.5" or so of board gets a
deeper cut, giving me an uneven board.

I've checked the Delta docs with no luck; any ideas on how to correct
this would be most appreciated.

I'm guessing that your outfeed table is too low relative to your cutter
knives. If this is the case, the portion of the board that rests on
the infeed table is allowing the board to bridge over the cutter until
the tail end of the board falls off the infeed table. Then the board
drops until it is caught by the outfeed table. I'll bet the finished
edge of your board isn't truly straight (not counting the snipe)
either.

As others have said, place a straightedge on the outfeed table with the
end hanging over the cutter. When the cutterhead is turned by hand
(while following accepted safety precautions), the blade should just
scrape the straightedge without lifting it.

DonkeyHody
"We are all ignorant, just about different things." - Will Rogers

Yep, my RIDGID model propels the stock through after I simply get it
started.

Not sure why anyone would need to "exert" pressure or get one's digits near
the cutterhead while the machine was operating.

"Paul D" wrote in message
...

"Rod & Betty Jo" wrote in message
...

Put your feed pressure against the fence and then on the outfeed
side.....take less off in each pass as well. Your most likely at the end
of
the cut pushing down on the infeed side and rocking the board into the
blades......when I changed methods mine magically fixed itself....Rod



Yours was definatly a user error problem and a safety issue
Safety Rule Number 1
Your hands should never pass over the cutter head.

To place enough pressure above cutter block to force timber down into
knives
would take considerable pressure. Your purpose at the driving end is
simply
to guide the piece through. Only light downward pressure is required. The
size of each pass will not stop snipe, except a deeper cut will result in
a
deeper snipe and a shallower cut a shalower snipe. Only light pressure is
required against teh fence to keep the piece in contact with fence.
Exerting
more pressure than necessary only serves to increase the seriousnous of
the
injury if something does go wrong ..... more pressure and fingers travel
further into cutter ....

A gentle hand is all that is needed to keep things flowing smoothly

"Paul D" wrote in message
...
If the rear table is adjustable the rear table needs to be adjusted up to
be
level with the knives.

If the outfeed table is not adjustable the knives need to be adjusted to
be
set level with outfeed table.

Don't you have to measure how far off it is with a dial indicator first?

On Wed, 20 Dec 2006 15:12:38 +0000, resrfglc wrote:

Yep, my RIDGID model propels the stock through after I simply get it
started.

Not sure why anyone would need to "exert" pressure or get one's digits near
the cutterhead while the machine was operating.

That's a mighty fancy jointer that you have there if it has a power feed.
Didn't know Ridgid made anything that sophisticated.

Perhaps you're thinking of a
planer http://www.ridgid.com/MenuDriver.asp?ParentID=13-Thickness-Planer
and not a jointer
http://www.ridgid.com/MenuDriver.asp?ParentID=6-18-Jointer--Planer?


"Paul D" wrote in message
...

"Rod & Betty Jo" wrote in message
...

Put your feed pressure against the fence and then on the outfeed
side.....take less off in each pass as well. Your most likely at the
end
of
the cut pushing down on the infeed side and rocking the board into the
blades......when I changed methods mine magically fixed itself....Rod



Yours was definatly a user error problem and a safety issue Safety Rule
Number 1
Your hands should never pass over the cutter head.

To place enough pressure above cutter block to force timber down into
knives
would take considerable pressure. Your purpose at the driving end is
simply
to guide the piece through. Only light downward pressure is required.
The size of each pass will not stop snipe, except a deeper cut will
result in a
deeper snipe and a shallower cut a shalower snipe. Only light pressure
is required against teh fence to keep the piece in contact with fence.
Exerting
more pressure than necessary only serves to increase the seriousnous of
the
injury if something does go wrong ..... more pressure and fingers
travel further into cutter ....

A gentle hand is all that is needed to keep things flowing smoothly



--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

In article Gpcih.6784$HT5.6672@trnddc02, "resrfglc" wrote:
Yep, my RIDGID model propels the stock through after I simply get it
started.

You have a RIDGID jointer with power feed??

Not sure why anyone would need to "exert" pressure or get one's digits near
the cutterhead while the machine was operating.

Ummm... that's the way a jointer works. Perhaps you're thinking of a planer?

"Paul D" wrote in message
...

"Rod & Betty Jo" wrote in message
...

Put your feed pressure against the fence and then on the outfeed
side.....take less off in each pass as well. Your most likely at the end
of
the cut pushing down on the infeed side and rocking the board into the
blades......when I changed methods mine magically fixed itself....Rod



Yours was definatly a user error problem and a safety issue
Safety Rule Number 1
Your hands should never pass over the cutter head.

To place enough pressure above cutter block to force timber down into
knives
would take considerable pressure. Your purpose at the driving end is
simply
to guide the piece through. Only light downward pressure is required. The
size of each pass will not stop snipe, except a deeper cut will result in
a
deeper snipe and a shallower cut a shalower snipe. Only light pressure is
required against teh fence to keep the piece in contact with fence.
Exerting
more pressure than necessary only serves to increase the seriousnous of
the
injury if something does go wrong ..... more pressure and fingers travel
further into cutter ....

A gentle hand is all that is needed to keep things flowing smoothly





--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Yep, my RIDGID model propels the stock through after I simply get it
started.

Not sure why anyone would need to "exert" pressure or get one's digits near
the cutterhead while the machine was operating.

That's a mighty fancy jointer that you have there if it has a power feed.
Didn't know Ridgid made anything that sophisticated.


Nah, He's just running his wood across it backwards. It'll feed itself
pretty well in that direction.

DonkeyHody
"Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there." - Will Rogers

"Perhaps you're thinking of a
planer"

Yep - Duh!


"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 20 Dec 2006 15:12:38 +0000, resrfglc wrote:

Yep, my RIDGID model propels the stock through after I simply get it
started.

Not sure why anyone would need to "exert" pressure or get one's digits
near
the cutterhead while the machine was operating.

That's a mighty fancy jointer that you have there if it has a power feed.
Didn't know Ridgid made anything that sophisticated.

Perhaps you're thinking of a
planer http://www.ridgid.com/MenuDriver.asp?ParentID=13-Thickness-Planer
and not a jointer
http://www.ridgid.com/MenuDriver.asp?ParentID=6-18-Jointer--Planer?


"Paul D" wrote in message
...

"Rod & Betty Jo" wrote in message
...

Put your feed pressure against the fence and then on the outfeed
side.....take less off in each pass as well. Your most likely at the
end
of
the cut pushing down on the infeed side and rocking the board into the
blades......when I changed methods mine magically fixed itself....Rod



Yours was definatly a user error problem and a safety issue Safety Rule
Number 1
Your hands should never pass over the cutter head.

To place enough pressure above cutter block to force timber down into
knives
would take considerable pressure. Your purpose at the driving end is
simply
to guide the piece through. Only light downward pressure is required.
The size of each pass will not stop snipe, except a deeper cut will
result in a
deeper snipe and a shallower cut a shalower snipe. Only light pressure
is required against teh fence to keep the piece in contact with fence.
Exerting
more pressure than necessary only serves to increase the seriousnous of
the
injury if something does go wrong ..... more pressure and fingers
travel further into cutter ....

A gentle hand is all that is needed to keep things flowing smoothly



--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"resrfglc" wrote in message
news:Gpcih.6784$HT5.6672@trnddc02...
Yep, my RIDGID model propels the stock through after I simply get it
started.

Not sure why anyone would need to "exert" pressure or get one's digits
near the cutterhead while the machine was operating.

Umm If your jointer propels the stock, you may want to feed from the other
direction.

"George" wrote in message
...

Don't you have to measure how far off it is with a dial indicator first?


Why?
Who cares if its .001" , .025", 3/16", 2mm or 1/2 a pubic hair off ..... ?
It's either right or wrong. You simply adjust as required to match straight
edge. It doesn't matter how much you adjusted it unless for some strange
reason you like to keep statistical maintenance records of how often and how
far out it is.

In article , "Paul D" wrote:

"George" wrote in message
t...

Don't you have to measure how far off it is with a dial indicator first?


Why?
Who cares if its .001" , .025", 3/16", 2mm or 1/2 a pubic hair off ..... ?
It's either right or wrong. You simply adjust as required to match straight
edge. It doesn't matter how much you adjusted it unless for some strange
reason you like to keep statistical maintenance records of how often and how
far out it is.

I think that comment was intended mostly in jest, referring to another thread
we had a month ago about setting jointer knives.

However...

"Simply adjust as required" is just another name for "trial and error". While
trial and error does work (not the best way IMO, but it does work) for setting
the height of the outfeed table relative to the knives, it's a *lousy* way of
making sure that the knives are all at the same height relative to each other.
That's where the dial indicator is really useful.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...


"Simply adjust as required" is just another name for "trial and error".
While
trial and error does work (not the best way IMO, but it does work) for
setting
the height of the outfeed table relative to the knives, it's a *lousy* way
of
making sure that the knives are all at the same height relative to each
other.
That's where the dial indicator is really useful.



Ugh-oh.....

--

-Mike-

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
"Simply adjust as required" is just another name for "trial and error".
While
trial and error does work (not the best way IMO, but it does work) for
setting
the height of the outfeed table relative to the knives, it's a *lousy* way
of
making sure that the knives are all at the same height relative to each
other.
That's where the dial indicator is really useful.


Sure. Because you can then use the built-in microadjust capability to raise
or lower the knives precisely the required amount.

For those of you who have that capability. What brand of jointer is that,
anyway? The one with the auto-adjust which compensates for blade wear?

LOL

In article , "George" wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
m...
"Simply adjust as required" is just another name for "trial and error". While
trial and error does work (not the best way IMO, but it does work) for setting
the height of the outfeed table relative to the knives, it's a *lousy* way of
making sure that the knives are all at the same height relative to each other.
That's where the dial indicator is really useful.

Sure. Because you can then use the built-in microadjust capability to raise
or lower the knives precisely the required amount.

Well, yes, that's kind of the point.

For those of you who have that capability. What brand of jointer is that,
anyway? The one with the auto-adjust which compensates for blade wear?

LOL

I'm not sure just what you find confusing here. I have a Delta DJ-15, just
your basic run-of-the-mill 6" jointer, nothing particularly special about it.
Each knife has two height-adjusting screws. With a dial indicator and an Allen
wrench, it's a pretty simple operation to adjust each knife to exactly the
same height. What brand of jointer is it, anyway, that does *not* have
height-adjusting screws for the knives?

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "Paul D"
wrote:

"George" wrote in message
t...

Don't you have to measure how far off it is with a dial indicator
first?


Why?
Who cares if its .001" , .025", 3/16", 2mm or 1/2 a pubic hair off .....
?
It's either right or wrong. You simply adjust as required to match
straight
edge. It doesn't matter how much you adjusted it unless for some strange
reason you like to keep statistical maintenance records of how often and
how
far out it is.

I think that comment was intended mostly in jest, referring to another
thread
we had a month ago about setting jointer knives.

Sorry George.

However...

"Simply adjust as required" is just another name for "trial and error".
While
trial and error does work (not the best way IMO, but it does work) for
setting
the height of the outfeed table relative to the knives, it's a *lousy* way
of
making sure that the knives are all at the same height relative to each
other.
That's where the dial indicator is really useful.

I dont think we need to go down this track again but there is no trial and
error about it if its done right. The measurement is of no paractical use
unless you happen have a microadjust scale on jointer as George mentions
little firther down.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article , "Paul D" wrote:

I dont think we need to go down this track again but there is no trial and
error about it if its done right. The measurement is of no paractical use
unless you happen have a microadjust scale on jointer as George mentions
little firther down.

It's not entirely clear to me exactly what you mean here, at two points:

Which measurement is "of no practical use"?

And what, exactly, do you mean by "a microadjust scale" on the jointer? Are
you talking about adjusting the infeed, the outfeed, the knife height, or
what?

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
t...
In article , "Paul D"
wrote:

I dont think we need to go down this track again but there is no trial and
error about it if its done right. The measurement is of no paractical use
unless you happen have a microadjust scale on jointer as George mentions
little firther down.

It's not entirely clear to me exactly what you mean here, at two points:

Which measurement is "of no practical use"?

And what, exactly, do you mean by "a microadjust scale" on the jointer?
Are
you talking about adjusting the infeed, the outfeed, the knife height, or
what?

Simple concept. Of what value is a precise measurement of error when you
have no precise corrective adjustment? How many turns, after you take out
the inevitable backlash, does it take on the knife elevating screws if so
equipped? If you think that butting the knife up against a gage with a dial
attached is significantly different than butting it up to a block referenced
to the outfeed table, there's no help for you. The knives can be perfectly
level to the outfeed and still be in error as far as the operation of the
tool is concerned.

If the wood passes the knives, which are the cut limiters, and catches on
the table, lower the table until the new surface just touches it. If
feeding while referencing the outfeed produces a snipe on the trailing edge,
lower the table until it does neither.

A good way to figure how low you have to go is to extend your outfeed table
with a block and bring the knives up until they kiss it at the top of their
arc. Pretty much what you'd do whether you knew how far you needed to go or
not.

In article , "George" wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
et...
In article , "Paul D"
wrote:

I dont think we need to go down this track again but there is no trial and
error about it if its done right. The measurement is of no paractical use
unless you happen have a microadjust scale on jointer as George mentions
little firther down.

It's not entirely clear to me exactly what you mean here, at two points:

Which measurement is "of no practical use"?

And what, exactly, do you mean by "a microadjust scale" on the jointer?
Are
you talking about adjusting the infeed, the outfeed, the knife height, or
what?

Simple concept. Of what value is a precise measurement of error when you
have no precise corrective adjustment? How many turns, after you take out
the inevitable backlash, does it take on the knife elevating screws if so
equipped?

Simple concept indeed -- but you seem to have missed it. The "precise
corrective adjustment" with respect to using a dial indicator consists of
turning the elevating screws while watching the dial indicator. It doesn't
matter how many turns it takes.

If you think that butting the knife up against a gage with a dial
attached is significantly different than butting it up to a block referenced
to the outfeed table, there's no help for you.

Well, we don't see it the same way at all. I'd say quite the opposite: if you
think it's *not* significantly different, there's no help for you.

The knives can be perfectly
level to the outfeed and still be in error as far as the operation of the
tool is concerned.

Explain that one, please: if all three knives are "perfectly level to the
outfeed", what is the source of error?

If the wood passes the knives, which are the cut limiters, and catches on
the table,

... then the knives aren't "perfectly level to the outfeed" .

lower the table until the new surface just touches it.

Trial and error...

If feeding while referencing the outfeed produces a snipe on the trailing edge,

... then the knives aren't "perfectly level to the outfeed" .

lower the table until it does neither.

Trial and error again.

Or you could use a dial indicator, or a straightedge and feeler gauges, to set
the height precisely -- and eliminate the trial and error steps you've just
described.

A good way to figure how low you have to go is to extend your outfeed table
with a block and bring the knives up until they kiss it at the top of their
arc. Pretty much what you'd do whether you knew how far you needed to go or
not.

If that works for you, fine. I've done it that way, and I find it to be a
PITA. I find it a lot simpler to use a dial indicator: pick one knife, any
knife, and set it so it's the same height above the outfeed table all the way
across. Or below the table; it doesn't matter at this point. Then set the
other two knives to the same height. Note that so far, it doesn't matter what
that height is -- just as long as it's the same height for all three, all the
way across. Finally, I adjust the outfeed table so that it's one-thou below
one of the knives (any of the three will do, since they're all the same now),
and go to work. No trial and error, no catches on the outfeed, no snipe on the
trailing end, just a nice clean cut.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message newsIRih.34689

If that works for you, fine. I've done it that way, and I find it to be a
PITA. I find it a lot simpler to use a dial indicator: pick one knife, any
knife, and set it so it's the same height above the outfeed table all the
way
across. Or below the table; it doesn't matter at this point. Then set the
other two knives to the same height. Note that so far, it doesn't matter
what
that height is -- just as long as it's the same height for all three, all
the
way across. Finally, I adjust the outfeed table so that it's one-thou
below
one of the knives (any of the three will do, since they're all the same
now),
and go to work. No trial and error, no catches on the outfeed, no snipe on
the
trailing end, just a nice clean cut.


if you use straight edge method and you don't have to adjust outfeed after
inserting and adjusting knives because it's all done in one step. One of the
reasons I prefer my method is that it works with all cutter systems.

How well does a dial indicator work
* on a set of scew mounted jointer knives? (no constant top centre)
* on a spiral cut rebating head ? (no straight edge to measure off)
* on a set of knives for a spindle collar ? (usually referenced of a point
or a radiused edge)
* on a tennoner head? (no straight edge to measure off)

Every one seems to carry on about the number of test cuts. 99.9% of teh time
I have enough confidence in the setup that I simply go straight back to what
I was doing.It would only be in an extreme situation that I would even
bother to do a test cut.

When talking about standard jointer cutter block both methods are essentiall
the same. The only difference is that you work in a specific measurement
(thou) and set to zero thou. The straight edge system works in an
'universal' measuring system. It makes no diff if your talking metric,
imperial or hair thicknesses you just set it to zero whatever units you ar
working in.

Paul D wrote:

How well does a dial indicator work
* on a set of scew mounted jointer knives? (no constant top centre)
* on a spiral cut rebating head ? (no straight edge to measure off)

* on a set of knives for a spindle collar ? (usually referenced of a point
or a radiused edge)


* on a tennoner head? (no straight edge to measure off)

Every cutter head that I am familiar with (except a B&D mounted router
bit) cuts with reference to a fixed point and can be adjusted with
reference to that fixed point. Find the fixed point, extend it if
needed, and you've located one end of the indicator set up. The point
being measured is, by definition, the other end. There is NO NEED for a
straight edge at the measured surface ... none.

Indicators measure points, one at a time. When the points no longer
vary, the line is straight, the circle round and concentric, the surface
flat. You need TDC when using a straight edge because you have no other
reference point. An indicator is not thus limited ... but can readily
find that point, too, if desired.

With an indicator, the element of guesswork in 'trusting' a set up
disappears. With proper use of an indicator you KNOW where the cutting
edge is and you KNOW the amount of error you are accepting. From that,
you can decide to trust or not based on knowledge. If I am cutting a
groove and it is .002" deeper than intended, nearly always that is no
problem and I would go ahead and make the cut ... but that is my choice
based on knowledge, not guesswork.

--
There are two kinds of light--the glow that illuminates, and the glare
that obscures.
James Thurber


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