What would you guys recommend to attach a solid red oak (42"x20"x1.25"-
3 boards glued) table top to 4 - 1.75"x1.75" legs. The design doesn't
allow for a skirt. Is there some sort of recommended hardware I could
find at Home Depot or an Ace? The plans show a sort of figure 8 piece
of metal that I've never seen before. What would the wood movement
considerations be. I think it would be considered end grain (top of
legs) into long grain (table top). Thanks for the help. It's my first
real project, so sorry for the stupid noob question. Thanks!

wrote in message
ups.com...
What would you guys recommend to attach a solid red oak (42"x20"x1.25"-
3 boards glued) table top to 4 - 1.75"x1.75" legs. The design doesn't
allow for a skirt. Is there some sort of recommended hardware I could
find at Home Depot or an Ace? The plans show a sort of figure 8 piece
of metal that I've never seen before. What would the wood movement
considerations be. I think it would be considered end grain (top of
legs) into long grain (table top). Thanks for the help. It's my first
real project, so sorry for the stupid noob question. Thanks!

That would depend on the rest of the table design. If there is no shelf,
apron, or other supports, it had better be handled very very gently or it
will fold up.

Not sure why the design fails to provide for supports for legs, but you know
best.

Would design allow you to tenon tops of legs and mortise top so that part of
leg came through the top?

Or use a round tenon and Forstner bit so end of leg inserts into top but
does NOT protrude/show through?

Alternatively, could you put the "skirt interior to the legs so it would be
hidden, but still provide some support?


wrote in message
ups.com...
What would you guys recommend to attach a solid red oak (42"x20"x1.25"-
3 boards glued) table top to 4 - 1.75"x1.75" legs. The design doesn't
allow for a skirt. Is there some sort of recommended hardware I could
find at Home Depot or an Ace? The plans show a sort of figure 8 piece
of metal that I've never seen before. What would the wood movement
considerations be. I think it would be considered end grain (top of
legs) into long grain (table top). Thanks for the help. It's my first
real project, so sorry for the stupid noob question. Thanks!

Actually there are support for the legs. It's basically a box. The 4
legs are screwed into the box on the 4 corners with about 6 inches
above the box and 2 inches below. The tabletop sits on the tops of the
4 legs.
resrfglc wrote:
Not sure why the design fails to provide for supports for legs, but you know
best.

Would design allow you to tenon tops of legs and mortise top so that part of
leg came through the top?

Or use a round tenon and Forstner bit so end of leg inserts into top but
does NOT protrude/show through?

Alternatively, could you put the "skirt interior to the legs so it would be
hidden, but still provide some support?


wrote in message
ups.com...
What would you guys recommend to attach a solid red oak (42"x20"x1.25"-
3 boards glued) table top to 4 - 1.75"x1.75" legs. The design doesn't
allow for a skirt. Is there some sort of recommended hardware I could
find at Home Depot or an Ace? The plans show a sort of figure 8 piece
of metal that I've never seen before. What would the wood movement
considerations be. I think it would be considered end grain (top of
legs) into long grain (table top). Thanks for the help. It's my first
real project, so sorry for the stupid noob question. Thanks!

What would you guys recommend to attach a solid red oak (42"x20"x1.25"-
3 boards glued) table top to 4 - 1.75"x1.75" legs. The design doesn't
allow for a skirt. Is there some sort of recommended hardware I could
find at Home Depot or an Ace? The plans show a sort of figure 8 piece
of metal that I've never seen before. What would the wood movement
considerations be. I think it would be considered end grain (top of
legs) into long grain (table top). Thanks for the help. It's my first
real project, so sorry for the stupid noob question. Thanks!



I would use wooden dowels and glue.

Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com

In article . com, " wrote:
Actually there are support for the legs. It's basically a box. The 4
legs are screwed into the box on the 4 corners with about 6 inches
above the box and 2 inches below. The tabletop sits on the tops of the
4 legs.

It's not real clear to me how this goes together... but you can get the
figure-8 fasteners he

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...=3,41306,41312

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

"Stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...


What would you guys recommend to attach a solid red oak
(42"x20"x1.25"-
3 boards glued) table top to 4 - 1.75"x1.75" legs. The design doesn't
allow for a skirt. Is there some sort of recommended hardware I could
find at Home Depot or an Ace? The plans show a sort of figure 8 piece
of metal that I've never seen before. What would the wood movement
considerations be. I think it would be considered end grain (top of
legs) into long grain (table top). Thanks for the help. It's my first
real project, so sorry for the stupid noob question. Thanks!



I would use wooden dowels and glue.

Scratch that! I think I understand now how your table goes together. You
are better off using the figure eights.


Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com

Thanks!
Doug Miller wrote:
In article . com, " wrote:
Actually there are support for the legs. It's basically a box. The 4
legs are screwed into the box on the 4 corners with about 6 inches
above the box and 2 inches below. The tabletop sits on the tops of the
4 legs.

It's not real clear to me how this goes together... but you can get the
figure-8 fasteners he

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...=3,41306,41312

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

"The design doesn't allow for a skirt."

OK, then, mortise and tenon with dowels, too. To secure tenons in mortises.
Lots of interest and lots of stability & strength.

Rabbit out the legs to allow "the box" to recess into the legs which will
add strength and stability again as well as an interesting construction
detail.




wrote in message
ups.com...
Actually there are support for the legs. It's basically a box. The 4
legs are screwed into the box on the 4 corners with about 6 inches
above the box and 2 inches below. The tabletop sits on the tops of the
4 legs.
resrfglc wrote:
Not sure why the design fails to provide for supports for legs, but you
know
best.

Would design allow you to tenon tops of legs and mortise top so that part
of
leg came through the top?

Or use a round tenon and Forstner bit so end of leg inserts into top but
does NOT protrude/show through?

Alternatively, could you put the "skirt interior to the legs so it would
be
hidden, but still provide some support?


wrote in message
ups.com...
What would you guys recommend to attach a solid red oak (42"x20"x1.25"-
3 boards glued) table top to 4 - 1.75"x1.75" legs. The design doesn't
allow for a skirt. Is there some sort of recommended hardware I could
find at Home Depot or an Ace? The plans show a sort of figure 8 piece
of metal that I've never seen before. What would the wood movement
considerations be. I think it would be considered end grain (top of
legs) into long grain (table top). Thanks for the help. It's my first
real project, so sorry for the stupid noob question. Thanks!

Yep, these are called table irons also. Several versions out there but
I like these solid versions vs the stamped sheet metal versions.

I suggest drilling (fostner) the holes in the legs about 3/32 deeper
than the thickness of the irons. This allows you to cinch down the
table top real tight. Also, make sure to put the hole close enough to
the edge or chisle out the sides a bit because you'll want the iron to
be able to swivel to account for expansion of the top. Even under a
tight screw it will swivel when it needs too.

I'd also suggest putting two of these at each leg, probably on the two
inside faces but anywhere is OK. People will be lifting the table by
the top over the years and you want a good connection. Also, I've had
tops get kicked loose (during shipping problems) over the years so be
brave and use the longest screw you can trust into the top to make sure
you get a good bite. I was only using 5/8" screws into a 3/4 top and
they pulled out pretty easy. You should be OK with 1" screws into your
5/4 top.

Doug Miller wrote:
In article . com, " wrote:
Actually there are support for the legs. It's basically a box. The 4
legs are screwed into the box on the 4 corners with about 6 inches
above the box and 2 inches below. The tabletop sits on the tops of the
4 legs.

It's not real clear to me how this goes together... but you can get the
figure-8 fasteners he

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...=3,41306,41312

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.