Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Help w/ Compound Mitre
I trying to install some crown molding. There will only be outside
corners, and all corners are 45 degrees. The crown molding must be installed upside down so that the 38 degree angle is at the top and the 52 degree angle is at the bottom. It has to be installed upside down so the top can span a certain distance out. I am having a heck of a time getting this. The corner I'm testing on is exactly 45 degrees, left outside corner. The book I'm working with says 33.85 B and 31.62 M. Because I'm installing upside down do these numbers mean anything in my situation? Should I toss them and just figure it out with trial and error? Should I swap the numbers? Is there a formula I could use to figure this out? I've burned through a lot of rough stock and I'm no closer. Any help is appreciated. Greg |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Help w/ Compound Mitre
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Help w/ Compound Mitre
I trying to install some crown molding. There will only be outside
corners, and all corners are 45 degrees. The crown molding must be installed upside down so that the 38 degree angle is at the top and the 52 degree angle is at the bottom. It has to be installed upside down so the top can span a certain distance out. I am having a heck of a time getting this. The corner I'm testing on is exactly 45 degrees, left outside corner. The book I'm working with says 33.85 B and 31.62 M. Because I'm installing upside down do these numbers mean anything in my situation? Should I toss them and just figure it out with trial and error? Should I swap the numbers? Is there a formula I could use to figure this out? I've burned through a lot of rough stock and I'm no closer. Any help is appreciated. Greg Use those numbers...do'nt swap them, swap the part...if you would normally put the lower edge of the molding to the fence, put the upper edge to the fence instead. Mike |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Help w/ Compound Mitre
Lenny wrote in message . ..
Greg, How large a crown moulding are you working with? Will it fit under the saw blade when held against the fence and table at the proper orientation. Cut a small section off a piece and hold it up to a square to determine what the projection is out from the wall and down from the ceiling. Transfer these measurements to your compound miter saw with some masking tape just to use as a reference. The moulding will lay top edge against the table, wall edge against the fence. If this doesn't make sense to you maybe you should have a look at this site http://www.crownmoulding.com/cutting.htm HTH Lenny On 20 Jul 2003 09:03:26 -0700, (Greg DeBacker) wrote: (Bruce) wrote in message ... In rec.woodworking (Greg DeBacker) wrote: I trying to install some crown molding. There will only be outside corners, and all corners are 45 degrees. The crown molding must be installed upside down so that the 38 degree angle is at the top and the 52 degree angle is at the bottom. It has to be installed upside down so the top can span a certain distance out. I am having a heck of a time getting this. snip The molding is 1X3. I'm restoring an 1895 Victorian home (my home) and the molding goes under the outside window sills. Back in the 40s or 50s some of the ornamental woodwork was removed and cement/asbestos siding was put on. As some would say, the house was "Eisenhowered". Last summer when I removed the cement siding you could see images of what was removed. The outside windows sills were fairly elaborate. They are made up of a total of 7 pieces of wood with 4 compound miters. They didn't mess around back then. When I was under the house working on some plumbing I found a six inch long piece of crown molding that matched the ghost image left behind when they ripped it off 50 years ago. I sent it to the mill to get it reproduced. In order to span the distance from the backing board to the edge of the under side of the window sill the molding must be installed upside down. This is what has caused me all of the problems. Once I recalculated the bevel and mitre for this it works. The M of 38.20 and a B of 25.79, as I figured out earlier are the magic numbers. That and also the fact that I now know how to position the trim on the saw (thanks to the web site you mentioned) means that the trim fits. I just finished the first window, and it looks pretty damn cool, if I do say so myself. I have cut some compund mitres by holding the piece at an angle on the chop saw but this cusotm milled redwood is too expensive for my skill level to be trying that for more than 80 cuts. Greg |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Anyone recommend a compound mitre circular saw? | UK diy | |||
Large coving mitre box? | UK diy | |||
Self Levelling Floor Compound Newbie help... | UK diy | |||
Compound Mitre or TS | Woodworking | |||
compound mitre saws | Woodworking |