Hi:

I don't have any big tools yet other than an arc welder, but I am wiring my
shop now and want to be 220v ready for when I do. I don't envision a
motor larger than 3HP, so figure I will run 10/3 cabling for all but arc
welder where 8/3 will be run.

My question concerns how to best stub out the box and recepticle? Should
I use 2x4 or 4x4 boxes and is there a standard recepticle than most 220v
woodworking tools use? If so, what would the markings be such that I can
find it at the building store?

Thanks.

Jonathan

On 8 Sep 2006 12:56:46 GMT, Jonathan Mau wrote:
Hi:

I don't have any big tools yet other than an arc welder, but I am wiring my
shop now and want to be 220v ready for when I do. I don't envision a motor
larger than 3HP, so figure I will run 10/3 cabling for all but arc welder
where 8/3 will be run.

My question concerns how to best stub out the box and recepticle? Should I
use 2x4 or 4x4 boxes and is there a standard recepticle than most 220v
woodworking tools use? If so, what would the markings be such that I can
find it at the building store?

I standardized on a NEMA 6L-20 locking plug & outlet for all of my 220V tools.
It is a twist-lock 3-wire connector.

All of my 220V tools came without a plug. If any of yours come with a plug,
its easy enough to cut the plug off and put on a 6L-20.

You could use a 6L-30 for your welder.

A 6L-20 female outlet will fit a single-gang box. I think a 6L-30 will, too.

--
Art Greenberg
artg at eclipse dot net

I would do it two ways....

(1) 120v in the wall outlets (use the four outlet boxes)
(2) ALL 220 in plastic conduit surface mounted.
(3) Stick with a very common plug and receptacle for all
of the 220v (6L-20)

I suggest the conduit cause it is MUCH easier to move or
add on to when you start moving things around. I have 220
outlet about every 6-8 feet.


Jonathan Mau wrote:
Hi:

I don't have any big tools yet other than an arc welder, but I am wiring my
shop now and want to be 220v ready for when I do. I don't envision a
motor larger than 3HP, so figure I will run 10/3 cabling for all but arc
welder where 8/3 will be run.

My question concerns how to best stub out the box and recepticle? Should
I use 2x4 or 4x4 boxes and is there a standard recepticle than most 220v
woodworking tools use? If so, what would the markings be such that I can
find it at the building store?

Thanks.

Jonathan

On 8 Sep 2006 12:56:46 GMT, (Jonathan Mau)
wrote:

Hi:

I don't have any big tools yet other than an arc welder, but I am wiring my
shop now and want to be 220v ready for when I do. I don't envision a
motor larger than 3HP, so figure I will run 10/3 cabling for all but arc
welder where 8/3 will be run.

If 3 HP is the largest you're going to run, you need not go bigger
than 12/3. If you're going to wire 10/3, you'll be able to run a 5 HP
motor.

My question concerns how to best stub out the box and recepticle? Should
I use 2x4 or 4x4 boxes and is there a standard recepticle than most 220v
woodworking tools use? If so, what would the markings be such that I can
find it at the building store?

If you insist on 10/3, do NOT try to use a 2x4 box. You will be very
sorry trying to maneuver that thick wire around in that tiny space.

The 6-15 series (two horizontal blades plus a ground) seems to be the
defacto standard on machines equipped with cords and plugs.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

On Fri, 08 Sep 2006 14:14:06 GMT, wrote:


If you decide that a 6L-20 is way too expensive, try a normal 20 amp
plug and outlet. They look just like regular plugs except the tines
are horizontal rather than vertical.

I believe you will find that those are 15 amp plugs and receptacles.

My unisaw came with this connector as did my dust collector. You can
use a standard 2x4 outlet box and just get a cover with single round
hole.

And other than the locking variety, if you decide to go that route,
that is the one I would recommend.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

Jonathan Mau wrote:
Hi:

I don't have any big tools yet other than an arc welder, but I am
wiring my
shop now and want to be 220v ready for when I do. I don't envision a
motor larger than 3HP, so figure I will run 10/3 cabling for all
but arc
welder where 8/3 will be run.

My question concerns how to best stub out the box and recepticle?
Should
I use 2x4 or 4x4 boxes and is there a standard receptacle than most
220v
woodworking tools use? If so, what would the markings be such that
I can
find it at the building store?


When it comes to planning an electrical distribution system, "bigger
is better" is a good approach.

I'd plan on at least one 2P-40A circuit using #8AWG for a future air
compressor.

Use 2 gang (4x4) boxes for all receptacles, you will appreciate the
space when it is time to make connections.

I have standardized on 30A locking devices for all 240V equipment
connected with #10AWG wire.

Certainly not required for every machine, but it makes life simple.

Have fun.

Lew

"Jonathan Mau" wrote in message
...
Hi:

I don't have any big tools yet other than an arc welder, but I am wiring
my
shop now and want to be 220v ready for when I do. I don't envision a
motor larger than 3HP, so figure I will run 10/3 cabling for all but arc
welder where 8/3 will be run.

My question concerns how to best stub out the box and recepticle? Should
I use 2x4 or 4x4 boxes and is there a standard recepticle than most 220v
woodworking tools use? If so, what would the markings be such that I can
find it at the building store?

Thanks.

Jonathan

You've had some good responses (some not so good). To answer your direct
question, "is there a standard receptacle than most 220v woodworking tools
use? If so, what would the markings be such that I can find it at the
building store?"

No, there seems to be no standard. I too converted all of my 220v tools to
NEMA 6L-30 locking plugs. Welders, table and bandsaw along with the dust
collection system.

I used EMT conduit and 5S boxes and covers. All wires were individual THHN
wires. I would avoid the 10/3 or 8/3 wrapped cables. They are harder to
pull and more difficult should you need to split up or add too should you
need (and you will) make changes.

I have used this setup now in three shops and have never regretted it.

Dave



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On Fri, 08 Sep 2006 16:22:55 +0100, LRod wrote:

If you insist on 10/3, do NOT try to use a 2x4 box. You will be very sorry
trying to maneuver that thick wire around in that tiny space.

I used stranded 10/3 in PVC conduit, and I had no such trouble in single-gang
boxes. I agree, if one is using solid wire, a double box would be better.

--
Art Greenberg
artg at eclipse dot net

(Jonathan Mau) writes:
Hi:

I don't have any big tools yet other than an arc welder, but I am wiring my
shop now and want to be 220v ready for when I do. I don't envision a
motor larger than 3HP, so figure I will run 10/3 cabling for all but arc
welder where 8/3 will be run.

My question concerns how to best stub out the box and recepticle? Should
I use 2x4 or 4x4 boxes and is there a standard recepticle than most 220v
woodworking tools use? If so, what would the markings be such that I can
find it at the building store?

Thanks.

Jonathan

I always use 4x4 boxes, even for single devices (using a plaster ring).
Gives plenty of room in the box for splices.

Standard recept is a NEMA 6-15R or 6-20R. You might wish to consider
using NEMA L6-15R or L6-20R (twist-lock).

http://www.leviton.com/sections/techsupp/nema.htm

scott

On Fri, 8 Sep 2006 06:56:46 -0600, Jonathan Mau wrote
(in article ):

Hi:

I don't have any big tools yet other than an arc welder, but I am wiring my
shop now and want to be 220v ready for when I do. I don't envision a
motor larger than 3HP, so figure I will run 10/3 cabling for all but arc
welder where 8/3 will be run.

My question concerns how to best stub out the box and recepticle? Should
I use 2x4 or 4x4 boxes and is there a standard recepticle than most 220v
woodworking tools use? If so, what would the markings be such that I can
find it at the building store?

Thanks.

Jonathan

Bigger IS better.
You'll hear all sorts of advice on wire size, etc. but for a box it is best
to use as large (cubic inches) as you can fit. I'd go with a 4x4 metal since
the size allows room for al the wire connections etc. and metal since it'll
avoid (or at least reduce) thread issues. You only are doing a few versus
dozens used in a typical house so cost savings isn't really an issue.
-Bruce

Jonathan Mau ) writes:
Hi:

I don't have any big tools yet other than an arc welder, but I am wiring my

Thank you for all the replies. I especially appreciate the link to the
leviton table which shows all the plug types.

A quick supplemental question. When you folks say to use a 4 inch box,
you are referring to the type that a dryer recepticle typically uses, and
not a double regular so to speak. I believe the former only takes a metal
cover plate whereas the latter takes all the usual plastic covers.

Thanks again.

Jonathan

"Jonathan Mau" wrote in message
...
Jonathan Mau ) writes:
Hi:

I don't have any big tools yet other than an arc welder, but I am wiring
my

Thank you for all the replies. I especially appreciate the link to the
leviton table which shows all the plug types.

A quick supplemental question. When you folks say to use a 4 inch box,
you are referring to the type that a dryer recepticle typically uses, and
not a double regular so to speak. I believe the former only takes a metal
cover plate whereas the latter takes all the usual plastic covers.

Thanks again.

Jonathan
A 4 square metal box with a mud ring (drywall ring). It will let you put a
regular face plate on it. That's all I ever use.