Hi,

Im interested in creating a stand similar to the following:
http://www.tameshigiri.com/make_a_stand_2.html

However, I need the base to be separated from the post.
The only problem I foresee is it's "strength" as I will have to
take it apart (to transport easier) and set it back up repeatedly.
Using screws or lag bolts would be ideal but after a few times I'm
sure I'll have to redrill new holes. Does anyone have any
suggestions for making this more sturdy for the repetitious setup and
takedowns? I was thinking some bolts to go all the way through the
base and post to other side and using wingnuts or something. Maybe
metal plates at the base to prevent the holes from widening? I'm
pretty handy, but just don't do much woodworking to know all the tips
and tricks you guys have.
Thanks for any insight!

On 17 Aug 2006 13:57:29 -0700, wrote:

Hi,

Im interested in creating a stand similar to the following:
http://www.tameshigiri.com/make_a_stand_2.html

However, I need the base to be separated from the post.
The only problem I foresee is it's "strength" as I will have to
take it apart (to transport easier) and set it back up repeatedly.
Using screws or lag bolts would be ideal but after a few times I'm
sure I'll have to redrill new holes. Does anyone have any
suggestions for making this more sturdy for the repetitious setup and
takedowns? I was thinking some bolts to go all the way through the
base and post to other side and using wingnuts or something. Maybe
metal plates at the base to prevent the holes from widening? I'm
pretty handy, but just don't do much woodworking to know all the tips
and tricks you guys have.

Just off the top of my head, if, as you say, you're going to be taking
apart and reassembling repeatedly, what you want to do is avoid having
the connection devices (bolts) also function as the locating
device(s). I'd be inclined to add dowels and holes (two) in each piece
to locate the part and then use through bolts (now the bolts can be as
sloppy as you want, which, by the way, aids assembly/disassembly).

Each pair of bolts will clamp two opposing base arms. Obviously you'll
need to have two of them located in a diagonal arrangement and the
other two parallel to the floor (so they don't interfere with each
other), or some arrangement of your own choosing that will do the job.
All four on the diagonal won't work.

I like the bolts and wing nut idea. Get some of the plastic handled
"fixture" nuts--much easier to work with than hardware store wing
nuts. If you tried to use carriage bolts, you'd eventually, as you
suspect, jimmy the holes.

Another thing to consider: when you first assemble this thing, all
four of the legs are going to sit nicely level on the floor. Over
time, the locaters might not keep everything perfectly aligned, and
the stand may develop a wobble. You can counteract much of this by
relieving the four legs so that there's a "pad" out at the end. The
downside of this is that all of the weight on the post will then
transferred through the joint at the bottom and out to the feet. That
adds a lot of stress to the joint where the legs meet the posts. Might
not be worth the modification, but being aware of it means it won't be
a surprise when the wobble does develop and you'll have a...er, uh,
leg up on a potential solution.

Good luck.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

What about hanger bolts? Will not have to be removed from the post. Only
disadvantage would be the bolts sticking out, and keeping track of the wing
bolts ans washers.

If this will not work try removing only 1 screw and pivit the leg up for
storage and transport.
wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,

Im interested in creating a stand similar to the following:
http://www.tameshigiri.com/make_a_stand_2.html

However, I need the base to be separated from the post.
The only problem I foresee is it's "strength" as I will have to
take it apart (to transport easier) and set it back up repeatedly.
Using screws or lag bolts would be ideal but after a few times I'm
sure I'll have to redrill new holes. Does anyone have any
suggestions for making this more sturdy for the repetitious setup and
takedowns? I was thinking some bolts to go all the way through the
base and post to other side and using wingnuts or something. Maybe
metal plates at the base to prevent the holes from widening? I'm
pretty handy, but just don't do much woodworking to know all the tips
and tricks you guys have.
Thanks for any insight!

wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,

Im interested in creating a stand similar to the following:
http://www.tameshigiri.com/make_a_stand_2.html

However, I need the base to be separated from the post.
The only problem I foresee is it's "strength" as I will have to
take it apart (to transport easier) and set it back up repeatedly.
Using screws or lag bolts would be ideal but after a few times I'm
sure I'll have to redrill new holes. Does anyone have any
suggestions for making this more sturdy for the repetitious setup and
takedowns? I was thinking some bolts to go all the way through the
base and post to other side and using wingnuts or something. Maybe
metal plates at the base to prevent the holes from widening? I'm
pretty handy, but just don't do much woodworking to know all the tips
and tricks you guys have.
Thanks for any insight!


Add a threaded (nut) to the base and a bolt to the post.
See
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/i...OD&ProdID=3058

Watch wrap

Dave

On 17 Aug 2006 13:57:29 -0700, wrote:

Hi,

Im interested in creating a stand similar to the following:
http://www.tameshigiri.com/make_a_stand_2.html

However, I need the base to be separated from the post.
The only problem I foresee is it's "strength" as I will have to
take it apart (to transport easier) and set it back up repeatedly.
Using screws or lag bolts would be ideal but after a few times I'm
sure I'll have to redrill new holes. Does anyone have any
suggestions for making this more sturdy for the repetitious setup and
takedowns? I was thinking some bolts to go all the way through the
base and post to other side and using wingnuts or something. Maybe
metal plates at the base to prevent the holes from widening? I'm
pretty handy, but just don't do much woodworking to know all the tips
and tricks you guys have.
Thanks for any insight!

Try these:

http://www.mcfeelys.com/product.asp?pid=3606-BI-D

Then you can use a knob with a bolt that fits the insert as well, and
you don't need any tools. It helps to use a drill press when
installing the insert to keep it straight- if you don't have one,
they're common enough that a friend or neighbor probably has one
somewhere.

Wingnuts can work- but I used that route on my router table fence, but
it's a pain for a few reasons. First, the wing nut will tear up the
wood if you don't have a washer under it- not a big problem, but they
are easy to lose if you are assembling and disassembling frequently.
Second, the threads on the bolts will ream out the hole over time with
repeated assembly and disassembly, eventually beginning to look ugly,
and finally making the hole large enough for the head of the bolt to
pull right through (This can go the other way as well- if the holes
are too snug, it's very difficult to tighten a wing nut until they
wear out a bit) And third, if you don't offset them properly, you're
going to have bolts blocking each other- not a big problem if it's a
big stand, but it'll be a pain if you're using 1.5" stock or
something.

The threaded inserts are really the way to go- they'll cost a little
bit more (a couple of dollars, tops,) but they're a whole lot easier
to work with in the long run.

T-nuts will work too.

As others have stated there will likely be a problem with wobble. Leveling
feet on the toes would be one solution.

Another way to solve the problem is to use a trangular post rather than a
square one.... A three-legged stool never wobbles. If I were to do that, I
would pitch the legs downward slightly to that the stand always stood on
it's toes; you can still have wobble with 3 legs flat to the ground.

-Steve

Prometheus wrote:
On 17 Aug 2006 13:57:29 -0700, wrote:

Hi,

Im interested in creating a stand similar to the following:
http://www.tameshigiri.com/make_a_stand_2.html

However, I need the base to be separated from the post.
The only problem I foresee is it's "strength" as I will have to
take it apart (to transport easier) and set it back up repeatedly.
Using screws or lag bolts would be ideal but after a few times I'm
sure I'll have to redrill new holes. Does anyone have any
suggestions for making this more sturdy for the repetitious setup and
takedowns? I was thinking some bolts to go all the way through the
base and post to other side and using wingnuts or something. Maybe
metal plates at the base to prevent the holes from widening? I'm
pretty handy, but just don't do much woodworking to know all the tips
and tricks you guys have.
Thanks for any insight!

Try these:

http://www.mcfeelys.com/product.asp?pid=3606-BI-D

Then you can use a knob with a bolt that fits the insert as well, and
you don't need any tools. It helps to use a drill press when
installing the insert to keep it straight- if you don't have one,
they're common enough that a friend or neighbor probably has one
somewhere.

Wingnuts can work- but I used that route on my router table fence, but
it's a pain for a few reasons. First, the wing nut will tear up the
wood if you don't have a washer under it- not a big problem, but they
are easy to lose if you are assembling and disassembling frequently.
Second, the threads on the bolts will ream out the hole over time with
repeated assembly and disassembly, eventually beginning to look ugly,
and finally making the hole large enough for the head of the bolt to
pull right through (This can go the other way as well- if the holes
are too snug, it's very difficult to tighten a wing nut until they
wear out a bit) And third, if you don't offset them properly, you're
going to have bolts blocking each other- not a big problem if it's a
big stand, but it'll be a pain if you're using 1.5" stock or
something.

The threaded inserts are really the way to go- they'll cost a little
bit more (a couple of dollars, tops,) but they're a whole lot easier
to work with in the long run.

Ok, i'm liking the threaded inserts idea. I was about to buy some the
other day when i noticed they had 2 types, brass and umm..steel? (gray
metal like screws). I know brass is probably softer and used commonly
for plumbing items but would it be too soft for taking apart and
putting up repeatedly? I guess my questions is do I go with the
"metal" ones or the brass?

Also should I use a glue or soemthing to give it extra sticking power
before putting the inserts in?

THanks!