I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to this,
and what do you guys do?

Steve

Yes, and while you're at it, put smaller wheels on your car, reduces wear on
the engine. Where do people come up with this stuff?
"Steve B" wrote in message
news:cw3zg.109181$iU2.91157@fed1read01...
I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to
this,
and what do you guys do?

Steve

Steve B wrote:
I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to this,
and what do you guys do?

Steve

Haven't heard that one. Just about any motor will burn out if you
push the stock through too quickly. Adding a smaller blade just adds
to the problem because for any given motor speed it would require a
slower feed rate. (The smaller the diameter of the blade, the slower
the speed at which the teeth spin) Possibly the problem is the blade
that comes with the saw isn't that great. If you invest in a good 10"
blade, keep it sharp, slow down the feed rate you should be fine.

Good luck!

"Steve B" wrote in message
I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to
this,
and what do you guys do?

Go to a 4" blade and the motor will last much longer ... guaranteed.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 6/21/06

"Steve B" wrote in message
news:cw3zg.109181$iU2.91157@fed1read01...
I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to
this, and what do you guys do?

Steve


Your friend is clueless. You would be reducing you cutting capacity to
about 1-5/8" to 2" vs. 3-1/8 to 3-1/2" when making 90 degree cuts and when
making 45 degree cuts down to about 1-1/4".

Buy a good quality 10" blade and you will be saving more than motor life.

On Sun, 30 Jul 2006 10:13:23 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:

"Steve B" wrote in message
I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to
this,
and what do you guys do?

Go to a 4" blade and the motor will last much longer ... guaranteed.


Not as long as it will with no blade...
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Steve B wrote:
I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to this,
and what do you guys do?

Steve


unless the saw you bought is *ridiculously* underpowered your friend is
full of hot air. I have never seen a saw come from factory this
underpowered.

what is the make and model of the saw? there are quite a few light duty
saws out there with *marginally* underpowered motors. to compensate for
this, there are also a lot of thin kerf blades on the market. if you
are having horsepower issues, compensate with a thinner blade, not a
smaller diameter one.

In article cw3zg.109181$iU2.91157@fed1read01, "Steve B" wrote:
I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to this,

Nope, not at all. Your friend should stick to offering advice in areas where
he is knowledgeable -- if there are any.

and what do you guys do?

I use a 10" blade on a 10" saw, and a 7" blade on a 7" saw.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

This is silly advice and greatly reduces the utility of your saw. However,
I would pass along one piece of advice I received from a tool demonstrator
at the Springfield Grizzly store. This only applies to cabinet or other
fine work involving 4/4 or similar stock.

If you shop around you will notice that 8" blades are often significantly
cheaper than their 10" counterparts. They also have thinner kerfs.
Mounting a GOOD 8" cabinet blade on your table saw, especially with blade
stabilizers, will allow you to make a very clean, thin cut. And it's a
litttle cheaper to buy and sharpen those blades.

Do I do this all of the time? No. I usually reserve the practice when I am
working on smaller projects such as a jewelry box.

RonB



"Steve B" wrote in message
news:cw3zg.109181$iU2.91157@fed1read01...
I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to
this, and what do you guys do?

Steve

Get a reasonablt good brand of thin kerf blade.
Should cost about $40-60.
Wilson
"Steve B" wrote in message
news:cw3zg.109181$iU2.91157@fed1read01...
I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to
this, and what do you guys do?

Steve

Wrap the whole saw in Plastic Wrap and it will last 100 years.

"Steve B" wrote in message
news:cw3zg.109181$iU2.91157@fed1read01...
I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to
this, and what do you guys do?

Steve

"Steve B" writes:

I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I
should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to
this, and what do you guys do?

By all means, keep 10" blade, burn up cheap motor, then spend $300 to
buy a 2HP, TEFC, 3,400RPM replacement unit.

Lew

In article et,
Lew Hodgett wrote:

By all means, keep 10" blade, burn up cheap motor, then spend $300 to
buy a 2HP, TEFC, 3,400RPM replacement unit.

And don't consult your friend on matters of tools.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
__________

"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05

Steve the saw came with the proper size blade. I think the factory knows
best I hope you enjoy your saw and the things you will create using it.


Al

"Steve B" wrote in message
news:cw3zg.109181$iU2.91157@fed1read01...
I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to
this, and what do you guys do?

Steve

"Steve B" wrote in message
news:cw3zg.109181$iU2.91157@fed1read01...
I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to
this, and what do you guys do?

You've gotten lots of good feedback already. But out of curiosity, what
table saw does your friend own? And does he use a 7" blade on his?

Darrell

In article cw3zg.109181$iU2.91157@fed1read01,
Steve B wrote:
I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to this,
and what do you guys do?

Steve



Does the 10" blade really "bog down" the motor? If it does when
cutting 4/4 or 5/4 hardwood or 2X soft wood, then something is wrong
with it or it is truly underpowered. I have a contractor saw with
1.5HP induction motor and leave a 10" blade on it more than 90% of the
time. The rest of the time it's either using an 8" dadao stack or
occasionally a molding head. I have very rarely used a smaller blade
for some special purpose but there is no need to use a 7 1/4" as
your standard blade.
--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

wrote:

unless the saw you bought is *ridiculously* underpowered your friend is
full of hot air. I have never seen a saw come from factory this
underpowered.

My old Rockwell had a 3/4HP motor on it. It was designed for a 9"
blade, and running smaller blades was that much easier on the motor.

Chris

wrote:

Does the 10" blade really "bog down" the motor? If it does when
cutting 4/4 or 5/4 hardwood or 2X soft wood, then something is wrong
with it or it is truly underpowered.

There are truly underpowered saws out there. My old Rockwell was 3/4HP
from the factory. It could take a 9" blade, but going smaller was even
easier on the motor.

Chris

Chris Friesen wrote:
wrote:

Does the 10" blade really "bog down" the motor? If it does when
cutting 4/4 or 5/4 hardwood or 2X soft wood, then something is wrong
with it or it is truly underpowered.

There are truly underpowered saws out there. My old Rockwell was 3/4HP
from the factory. It could take a 9" blade, but going smaller was even
easier on the motor.

Chris


rockwell almost certainly offered that saw with a variety of motors, or
without a motor. the choice to set it up underpowered was made by the
purchaser, if my understanding of the early rockwell marketing is
correct. even so, it's kind of hard to justify selling a 9" saw with a
3/4HP motor on it if it was meant for sheet goods, or for any kind of
heavy ripping. how big is the table, and is it tilting arbor or tilting
table?

"Darrell Dorsey" wrote in message
ervers.com...
"Steve B" wrote in message
news:cw3zg.109181$iU2.91157@fed1read01...
I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to
this, and what do you guys do?

You've gotten lots of good feedback already. But out of curiosity, what
table saw does your friend own? And does he use a 7" blade on his?

Darrell

I believe he has a Rockwell. He has a garage full of equipment, although
his health is getting to be poor, and he doesn't do a lot any more. He has
been doing woodworking for about fifty years now.

He has all sorts of saws and equipment, all quality tools.

I appreciate all the input, even from those who can't answer a simple
question without flying off into the ozone.

I like to ask questions to learn. Sometimes one might ask what seems a dumb
question, but I think there are no dumb questions except for those that
someone has asked before and ignored the answer.

It always amazes me that those of us who don't know everything bother those
who DO know everything so much. I think when one quits learning and
changing, they die. Or at least in the literal sense. I hope I continue to
learn something every day, and maybe even by asking dumb questions.

Steve

"Al" wrote in message
nk.net...
Steve the saw came with the proper size blade. I think the factory knows
best I hope you enjoy your saw and the things you will create using it.


Al

Thanks, Al. I am already making things and enjoying it immensely. So nice
to be able to make nice straight cuts and everything fits. Just makes me
want to do more.

Steve

"Steve B" wrote in message
news:cw3zg.109181$iU2.91157@fed1read01...
I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to
this, and what do you guys do?

Steve

"Steve B" wrote in message news:Pbgzg.109361$iU2.56466@fed1read01...

SNIP
I appreciate all the input, even from those who can't answer a simple
question without flying off into the ozone.

I like to ask questions to learn. Sometimes one might ask what seems a dumb
question, but I think there are no dumb questions except for those that
someone has asked before and ignored the answer.

It always amazes me that those of us who don't know everything bother those
who DO know everything so much. I think when one quits learning and
changing, they die. Or at least in the literal sense. I hope I continue to
learn something every day, and maybe even by asking dumb questions.

Steve


It's pure jealousy Steve. They are jealous that they can no longer learn and others still have the fire. Enough fire to ask questions and learn new things.
Puff

Steve B wrote:

I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to
this, and what do you guys do?

If it doesn't seem to be bogging down I wouldn't worry about it. If it does
seem to be, make sure it's getting enough power--that means plugged
directly into the wall rather than on an extension cord and with a
reasonably short run back to the breaker panel and no other loads on the
circuit.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"Steve B" said:

snip

It always amazes me that those of us who don't know everything bother those
who DO know everything so much. I think when one quits learning and
changing, they die. Or at least in the literal sense. I hope I continue to
learn something every day, and maybe even by asking dumb questions.

snip

My compliments on your attitude WRT learning.

And so far as bothering the others, I'm sure you've heard the
expression "in vino veritas". That may be true, but in the
autumn/winter of my life, I've come to the conclusion that there is no
better measure of the true nature of a man than to read what he
writes/says from behind the protective walls of distance and
anonymity. Much of what I read in groups such as this, if said without
that protection, would lead to sore knuckles and broken noses at best.

"Tom Veatch" . wrote in message
news

And so far as bothering the others, I'm sure you've heard the
expression "in vino veritas". That may be true, but in the
autumn/winter of my life, I've come to the conclusion that there is no
better measure of the true nature of a man than to read what he
writes/says from behind the protective walls of distance and
anonymity. Much of what I read in groups such as this, if said without
that protection, would lead to sore knuckles and broken noses at best.

This is so true.

Al

wrote:

rockwell almost certainly offered that saw with a variety of motors, or
without a motor. the choice to set it up underpowered was made by the
purchaser, if my understanding of the early rockwell marketing is
correct. even so, it's kind of hard to justify selling a 9" saw with a
3/4HP motor on it if it was meant for sheet goods, or for any kind of
heavy ripping. how big is the table, and is it tilting arbor or tilting
table?

It was a tilting arbor saw, single cast-iron wing. Similar to this one:

http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?id=4189

Chris

On Mon, 31 Jul 2006 10:15:50 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Steve B wrote:

I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to
this, and what do you guys do?

If it doesn't seem to be bogging down I wouldn't worry about it. If it does
seem to be, make sure it's getting enough power--that means plugged
directly into the wall rather than on an extension cord and with a
reasonably short run back to the breaker panel and no other loads on the
circuit.

or possibly a very tight belt.. DAMHIKT

Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

"Tom Veatch" . wrote in message
news
"Steve B" said:

snip

It always amazes me that those of us who don't know everything bother
those
who DO know everything so much. I think when one quits learning and
changing, they die. Or at least in the literal sense. I hope I continue
to
learn something every day, and maybe even by asking dumb questions.

snip

My compliments on your attitude WRT learning.

And so far as bothering the others, I'm sure you've heard the
expression "in vino veritas". That may be true, but in the
autumn/winter of my life, I've come to the conclusion that there is no
better measure of the true nature of a man than to read what he
writes/says from behind the protective walls of distance and
anonymity. Much of what I read in groups such as this, if said without
that protection, would lead to sore knuckles and broken noses at best.

Yah got that right. In the real world, a stupid question might bring a
giggle, a hearty guffaw, rolling eyes expression, some subtle gesture that
it may have been a dumb thing to ask. Yet, to me, it all falls back on the
teacher. We start off knowing little. We learn by asking. If we get
slapped, the first thing we learn is not to ask, or not to ask THAT person.
As I have progressed through careers, hobbies, and life experiences, the
teachers I remember the most were the patient ones who didn't kick me in the
nuts all the time. They were also the ones I learned the most from. And
lastly, they were the ones I had the biggest laughs from when we would recap
and say,

"Hey, do you remember the time when I (fill in your favorite story)"?

Know it all teachers and know it all students. They both have a way of
reaching their own ultimate levels of competency.

Steve

STEVE
REMEMBER THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A DUMB QUESTION.

I SAW A DEMO. ABOUT SAW BLADES. IN EXTERME SLOW MOTION. THE 10" BLADE
ACTUALLY APPEARED TO "BACK UP" WITH THE INITIAL CONTACT WITH WOOD ESPECIALLY
HARD WOOD. THE INTITAL CUT SHOWED CHATTER. THE FILM ALSO SHOWED 9", 8"
AND 7" BLADES THE PROBLES WERE REDUCED AS THE DIAMETER REDUCED.

DO NOT BUY "A" NEW BLADE BUY SEVERL "QUALITY " BLADES.

WE ALL GET LAZY FROM TIME TO TIME AND DO NOT CHANGE THE BLADE FOR THE JOB WE
ARE DOING, AND LATER COMPLAIN A BOUT THE QUALITY OF THE CUT THE BLADE WAS
DOING ITS JOB, WE FAILED TO DO OURS.

GOOD LUCK
WOODWORM
"Steve B" wrote in message
news:cw3zg.109181$iU2.91157@fed1read01...
I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to
this,
and what do you guys do?

Steve

mac davis wrote in
:

On Sun, 30 Jul 2006 10:13:23 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:

"Steve B" wrote in message
I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I
should do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that
comes with it bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is
there anything to
this,
and what do you guys do?

Go to a 4" blade and the motor will last much longer ... guaranteed.


Not as long as it will with no blade...
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Don't turn it on, and it will last even longer...

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

In article ,
J. Mohnike wrote:
STEVE
REMEMBER THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A DUMB QUESTION.

I SAW A DEMO. ABOUT SAW BLADES. IN EXTERME SLOW MOTION. THE 10" BLADE
ACTUALLY APPEARED TO "BACK UP" WITH THE INITIAL CONTACT WITH WOOD ESPECIALLY
HARD WOOD. THE INTITAL CUT SHOWED CHATTER. THE FILM ALSO SHOWED 9", 8"
AND 7" BLADES THE PROBLES WERE REDUCED AS THE DIAMETER REDUCED.

DO NOT BUY "A" NEW BLADE BUY SEVERL "QUALITY " BLADES.

WE ALL GET LAZY FROM TIME TO TIME AND DO NOT CHANGE THE BLADE FOR THE JOB WE
ARE DOING, AND LATER COMPLAIN A BOUT THE QUALITY OF THE CUT THE BLADE WAS
DOING ITS JOB, WE FAILED TO DO OURS.

GOOD LUCK
WOODWORM

I admit to leaving the same blade on my saw most of the time but at
least I'm not so "lazy" that I won't use the caps lock & shift keys



--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

Leon wrote:
"Steve B" wrote in message
news:cw3zg.109181$iU2.91157@fed1read01...
I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to
this, and what do you guys do?

Steve

Your friend is clueless. You would be reducing you cutting capacity to
about 1-5/8" to 2" vs. 3-1/8 to 3-1/2" when making 90 degree cuts and when
making 45 degree cuts down to about 1-1/4".

Buy a good quality 10" blade and you will be saving more than motor life.

Leon, by 7" I think the OP means 7-1/4", your standard CS blade (he
rounded off I suspect). If that blade can only cut 2" at 90º or 1-1/4
at 45º, then how do framers manage to cut dimensional lumber using CSs
and 7-1/4" blades? On the other hand, maybe you're thinking that some
TSs can't bring their arbors up that far, and with some brands that may
be true, but my cheapo Ryobi BT3K can cut deeper than my Milwaukee CS,
using the same blade, so I'm prone to thinking that the the cutting
capacity would be fine as long as you are cutting wood as thick or
thinner than dimensional lumber.

Actually (and to address everyone now, not just Leon), I'm a bit taken
aback by the overwhelming unanimity of responses condemning the OP's
friend's advice. I don't think the friend's reasoning is particularly
compelling, but the advice is really good advice in some circumstances,
so the eagerness of so many respondents to jump on the bandwagon with
clever put-downs comes as a surprise. No one else does this?

In an ideal situation with most any TS, you'd get a decent 10" Forrest
or Freud blade [that's traditional wisdom, although a recent WWer's
Journal article rated most of the 10" blades and recommended
the--gasp!--DeWalt and Rigid blades. Whatever. A good blade makes a
world of difference.] and you'd have few regrets if any.

But it is a healthy bit you'll spend for that blade ($50-$120 or so).
Freud 7-1/4" blades run about $10. Step up to a Freud 8" and pay $15-20
for a fine blade.

Many respondents also recommended going to a thin-kerf blade. Sometimes
with under-power issues that's helpful. But a few years back, when the
Wreck was inhabited by far more knowledgeable woodworkers (that's just
my impression), the relative merits of thin-kerf blades were debated
and condemned because of wobble and flex. Sure, you could put
stabilizers on, but then what have you gained over using an 8"
thin-kerf except paying more?

Smaller diameter blades are really handy when you want a decent cut but
are working with reclaimed lumber--it's easy to be less nervous about
ruining a $10 blade than a $100 blade.

On my 12" cabinet saw I keep a high-end 12" blade; on my Ryobi BT3K I
pimp a Freud 8" (sometimes a 7-1/4") thin-kerf. Both get a lot of use,
but the Ryobi cuts just as well with the 8" as with a good-quality
Freud 10". Since it's less than 1/7th the price and I rarely cut
anything over 8/4 anyway (and if I need to I have the other saw), the
8" seems like a better choice to me.

Am I missing something? You've all pretty much trashed the idea, but no
one has addressed some of the benefits. It might be in the OPs best
interest to give it a try.

Regards
H

"J. Mohnike" writes:

STEVE
[snip all caps message]

TURN YOUR HEARING AID ON. And remember - WE are not deaf. :-)


--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.

"hylourgos" wrote in message

Actually (and to address everyone now, not just Leon), I'm a bit taken
aback by the overwhelming unanimity of responses condemning the OP's
friend's advice. I don't think the friend's reasoning is particularly
compelling, but the advice is really good advice in some circumstances,
so the eagerness of so many respondents to jump on the bandwagon with
clever put-downs comes as a surprise.

Except that there are questions where a bit of time spent THINKING before
asking would have produced an answer without utterance.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/30/06

On Tue, 1 Aug 2006 06:38:33 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:

"hylourgos" wrote in message

Actually (and to address everyone now, not just Leon), I'm a bit taken
aback by the overwhelming unanimity of responses condemning the OP's
friend's advice. I don't think the friend's reasoning is particularly
compelling, but the advice is really good advice in some circumstances,
so the eagerness of so many respondents to jump on the bandwagon with
clever put-downs comes as a surprise.

Except that there are questions where a bit of time spent THINKING before
asking would have produced an answer without utterance.

yeah, but ya know that you can lead a horticulture but not make her think,
right?

Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

"hylourgos" wrote in message
ups.com...

Leon wrote:
"Steve B" wrote in message
news:cw3zg.109181$iU2.91157@fed1read01...
I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I
should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to
this, and what do you guys do?

I fear that this is not very good advice.

From my web site - Circular Sawbench Safety - Blades, I've extracted the
following:

Using undersized blades increases the risk of accident because of the
inefficient cutting which results from the low peripheral speed of such a
blade. Such blades are more inclined to flutter, create a poor finish and/or
deflect to one side. It is contrary to the UK factory regulations to use a
blade of a diameter less than 60% of the of the sawbench's design size. (The
drive of a saw bench is normally designed to give a speed of 3,000
metres/minute (10,000ft/min) with the intended blade).

so I suppose that 7" is within the 60% limit, but much of the above will
apply.

Jeff G

--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net

I wouldn't say that a 10" would burn up your saw faster but the
smaller blades can be useful. Freud makes a 7 1/4" Diablo Finish Blade
D0740X which is very useful when cutting small pieces of wood say for
the inside of a desk gallery. I use them when cutting veneer for
stringing and making banding. The D0740X has a .59 kerf which save a
fair amount per cut which is important when you have some time
invested to make the banding block. The blade also leaves a **very**
fine cut. You have to make a zero clearance insert to use this type of
blade with small material and there are a number of other little trick
you can perform to help in cutting small material.

Having said all this the most used blade would be a 10" and of course
this blade would be necessary when cutting thicker stock but once you
try the smaller blades you may find yourself using them more often
then you would have imagined.


On Sun, 30 Jul 2006 07:39:05 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I recently bought a 10" table saw. A friend says the first thing I should
do is put a good 7" blade on it because the 10 incher that comes with it
bogs down the motor, and will burn it up faster. Is there anything to this,
and what do you guys do?

Steve