I use western red cedar to make fishing lures. After cutting them out
to shape I normally dip them in a sanding sealer. The sanding sealer
though causes the wood grain to really rise. I need to seal the baits
tho in some way before going to a primer. Does anyone have a
suggestioin for me?

Thank you!!

II

Dampen the cedar with water (before the sanding sealer).....this will
raise the grain.....then sand the plug....let it dry
thoroughly....then apply your sealer....

bOb
On 4 Jul 2006 17:24:59 -0700, wrote:

I use western red cedar to make fishing lures. After cutting them out
to shape I normally dip them in a sanding sealer. The sanding sealer
though causes the wood grain to really rise. I need to seal the baits
tho in some way before going to a primer. Does anyone have a
suggestioin for me?

Thank you!!

II

I just ran a damp cloth over them Bob and boy did it ever raise the
grain!


II


bOb wrote:
Dampen the cedar with water (before the sanding sealer).....this will
raise the grain.....then sand the plug....let it dry
thoroughly....then apply your sealer....

bOb
On 4 Jul 2006 17:24:59 -0700, wrote:

I use western red cedar to make fishing lures. After cutting them out
to shape I normally dip them in a sanding sealer. The sanding sealer
though causes the wood grain to really rise. I need to seal the baits
tho in some way before going to a primer. Does anyone have a
suggestioin for me?

Thank you!!

II

Myxylplyk wrote:
Seal them with epoxy. paint them. Clear coat them with epoxy.
also, bass wood makes excellent lures.

I'm with you until the clear coat with epoxy.

Since epoxy has no UV inhibitors, makes a lousy final coat for outdoor
items.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:

Since epoxy has no UV inhibitors, makes a lousy final coat for outdoor
items.

A fishing lure? Is he going to lay it out on the lawn for days on end and tempt
the fish to come ashore?

I think that he can safely ignore UV problems.

Mike

Thanks for the help guys. I use an epoxy-type product designed for
clear coating bar tops as a final coat. What I was hoping to find is a
product that would seal the wood before I primer it. Perhaps there is a
primer that would both seal and prime it? I want to have an additional
layer of protection below the clear coat and of course must have the
white primer as a base to paint the lure pattern on.

II

wrote:
Thanks for the help guys. I use an epoxy-type product designed for
clear coating bar tops as a final coat. What I was hoping to find is
a product that would seal the wood before I primer it. Perhaps there
is a primer that would both seal and prime it? I want to have an
additional layer of protection below the clear coat and of course
must have the white primer as a base to paint the lure pattern on.


Shellac


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Thin the epoxy, acetone or xylene...*keep quantities small*. Font mix up a
half a cup to do
a few dozen blanks, unless you can do them all quickly. My rule of thumb is
to use long cure
epoxy but thin it and treat it like 5-min epoxy. (Heat and those solvent in
large quantities can
get interesting. small quantities are no issue)
This adds the surface strength to allow eyescews to hold well and minimize
hook/tooth damage.
(a second unthinned coat with a little filler is nice to enclose belly
openings and surface imperfections)
If i get a chance, i'll post some pics some time.

Myx
"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:EMOqg.2293$Og3.1564@trnddc06...
wrote:
Thanks for the help guys. I use an epoxy-type product designed for
clear coating bar tops as a final coat. What I was hoping to find is
a product that would seal the wood before I primer it. Perhaps there
is a primer that would both seal and prime it? I want to have an
additional layer of protection below the clear coat and of course
must have the white primer as a base to paint the lure pattern on.


Shellac


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

What "epoxy" do you use? Are you talking about something like Devcon 2
ton? And then you thin it with acetone....is that right? When you say
to use a "long cure but thin it and treat it like a 5-min epoxy" what
do you mean? Does the thinning spead up the reaction/drying time?

After the epoxy is on then what do you use as a basecoat primer?

Thank you!!!

II





Myxylplyk wrote:
Thin the epoxy, acetone or xylene...*keep quantities small*. Font mix up a
half a cup to do
a few dozen blanks, unless you can do them all quickly. My rule of thumb is
to use long cure
epoxy but thin it and treat it like 5-min epoxy. (Heat and those solvent in
large quantities can
get interesting. small quantities are no issue)
This adds the surface strength to allow eyescews to hold well and minimize
hook/tooth damage.
(a second unthinned coat with a little filler is nice to enclose belly
openings and surface imperfections)
If i get a chance, i'll post some pics some time.

Myx
"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:EMOqg.2293$Og3.1564@trnddc06...
wrote:
Thanks for the help guys. I use an epoxy-type product designed for
clear coating bar tops as a final coat. What I was hoping to find is
a product that would seal the wood before I primer it. Perhaps there
is a primer that would both seal and prime it? I want to have an
additional layer of protection below the clear coat and of course
must have the white primer as a base to paint the lure pattern on.


Shellac


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico