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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Breaking router bit
Sharing an experience.
I was cutting some circular table tops and using a router with a jig to make the circles accurate after cutting the blanks with a band saw. I had done this before using a solid carbide 1/4" onsrud style bit and broke the darn bit. I thought a straight cut bit would not be as fragile, and broke one of them as well. Instead of running out and buying a new bit I used a 3/8' bit which took another 1/16" off the radius - which I can live with. This time however I went halfway through the top, and made 2 slow passes. I still have that bit in the router and learned a lesson. Trying to save time lost me 2 bits and not the 25 cent variety either. |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Breaking router bit
I would move to 1/2" bits if at all possible. Those 1/4"
bits are very fragil and not really up to the job you are giving them. Norbert wrote: Sharing an experience. I was cutting some circular table tops and using a router with a jig to make the circles accurate after cutting the blanks with a band saw. I had done this before using a solid carbide 1/4" onsrud style bit and broke the darn bit. I thought a straight cut bit would not be as fragile, and broke one of them as well. Instead of running out and buying a new bit I used a 3/8' bit which took another 1/16" off the radius - which I can live with. This time however I went halfway through the top, and made 2 slow passes. I still have that bit in the router and learned a lesson. Trying to save time lost me 2 bits and not the 25 cent variety either. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Breaking router bit
Pat Barber wrote: I would move to 1/2" bits if at all possible. Those 1/4" bits are very fragil and not really up to the job you are giving them. How much material were you trying to take off? Were you just a hair from the pencil line on the bandsaw, so you were just smoothing the edge, or were you taking off a more significant 3/16 or something like that? For a tiny bit, I would have thought the carbide spiral bit would be a good choice, but for any thickness or depth, I like a 3/4" or 1" dia straight bit. Andy |
#4
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Breaking router bit
Pat Barber wrote: I would move to 1/2" bits if at all possible. Those 1/4" bits are very fragil and not really up to the job you are giving them. Absolutely. I have a 1/2" shank, 3/4" dia, 3" lg, 2 flute bit barbide bit complete with a bottom bearing that gets used for this kind of work. The cabinet shop that makes the round MDF tables for department store window displays uses same package but without bearing. Lew Lew |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Breaking router bit
Being that carbide is a brittle material I've never thought solid
carbide bits especially 1/4" shank were a good idea. Was the second bit solid carbide also Joe Norbert wrote: Sharing an experience. I was cutting some circular table tops and using a router with a jig to make the circles accurate after cutting the blanks with a band saw. I had done this before using a solid carbide 1/4" onsrud style bit and broke the darn bit. I thought a straight cut bit would not be as fragile, and broke one of them as well. Instead of running out and buying a new bit I used a 3/8' bit which took another 1/16" off the radius - which I can live with. This time however I went halfway through the top, and made 2 slow passes. I still have that bit in the router and learned a lesson. Trying to save time lost me 2 bits and not the 25 cent variety either. |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Breaking router bit
I have a circle jig that is calibrated for 1/4" bits. I have cut through 3/4
oak on a number of occasions with no problem using both spiral and two flute bits. Feedrate is key and keeping the slot clean. "Norbert" wrote in message ... The solid carbide bit was broken trying to do the complete job without the bandsaw to do the major roughing. The second bit was a 1/4 inch straight carbide not solid. I thought the steel shank might be stronger. I was removing 1/8 inch or so of 3/4 thick ash. Next time I will use a 1/2 inch shank bit and adjust my jig to compensate for the size of the bit. I realize now I was pushing the 1/4 inchers too far, and probably going too fast The 1/2 inch shank is good advice, and since I'm removing material from the outside only the bit diameter isn't a problem. Thanks for the feedback everyone. On 27 Jun 2006 13:07:03 -0700, wrote: Being that carbide is a brittle material I've never thought solid carbide bits especially 1/4" shank were a good idea. Was the second bit solid carbide also Joe Norbert wrote: Sharing an experience. I was cutting some circular table tops and using a router with a jig to make the circles accurate after cutting the blanks with a band saw. I had done this before using a solid carbide 1/4" onsrud style bit and broke the darn bit. I thought a straight cut bit would not be as fragile, and broke one of them as well. Instead of running out and buying a new bit I used a 3/8' bit which took another 1/16" off the radius - which I can live with. This time however I went halfway through the top, and made 2 slow passes. I still have that bit in the router and learned a lesson. Trying to save time lost me 2 bits and not the 25 cent variety either. |
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