Hi all,

Yesterday afternoon I was running a board through my direct drive table saw,
an older 10" Delta model. Half way through the board (I was probably trying
to run it through a *little* too fast), the blade stopped and the reset
switch popped. Stupid me reset it, tried again (everything powered up
normally) and after a bit more cutting it happened again. Now every time I
start the saw the blade begins spinning, but it doesn't sound (or look) like
it's running at full power. She feels like she's revving up to get up to
speed, but once it nears that point the reset switch always pops. I've tried
leaving it for 15 minutes, an hour, etc, before trying it again, always with
the same result.

I opened up the power box connected to the switch and reset button and gave
it a good clean out - very dirty. I also tool the air compressor to the
motor and gave it a good blow out (didn't disassemble it, though). I've
tried connecting it directly to the outlet (to eliminate the extension
cord), no luck (I am on 220 service).

I'm a little lost and wondering if there's something I might be missing in
trying to get this sorted. Is it possibly a capacitor problem? The saw is
old, but was running perfectly well until I took it to stupid village
yesterday. I personally don't think it's the motor, but then what the hell
do I know. The inside of the electrical connection box gave off what I
considered to be a slightly funny smell when the second reset happened, so
that leads me to believe it may be the source of the problem. The
connections in there are pretty grubby, but I haven't tested it all yet (any
advice for the electronically impaired here so that I can do it right?).

Please, Obi-wans of woodworking, you're my only hope.

Any advice or insight appreciated, including those laced with sarcasm and a
general disdain for a classic dumbass-kills-saw types.

Thanks,
Dan

Dan wrote:
Hi all,

Yesterday afternoon I was running a board through my direct drive table saw,
an older 10" Delta model. Half way through the board (I was probably trying
to run it through a *little* too fast), the blade stopped and the reset
switch popped.
snip
Any advice or insight appreciated, including those laced with sarcasm and a
general disdain for a classic dumbass-kills-saw types.

Thanks,
Dan

Hey, breaking a tool happens to everyone. The place you are screwing
up is trying to fix it. This is a perfect opportunity to buy a new
tool.

RayV wrote:
Hey, breaking a tool happens to everyone. The place you are screwing
up is trying to fix it. This is a perfect opportunity to buy a new
tool.


Thats just silly. If a good tool can be repaired for a reasonable
cost, why waste money and throw out what could be a perfectly good tool

"Dan" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

snip

Any advice or insight appreciated, including those laced with sarcasm and
a general disdain for a classic dumbass-kills-saw types.

Thanks,
Dan
I'm no electrician and don't play one on TV but given your situation I'd
give an electric motor repair shop a call. I know it will be a huge pain if
you need to remove the motor but it's sounding like you toasted something
inside during the overload(s). I hope that you get a more knowledgeable
response than mine!!

On Mon, 19 Jun 2006 09:38:03 -0400, "Dan" wrote:

Hi all,

Yesterday afternoon I was running a board through my direct drive table saw,
an older 10" Delta model. Half way through the board (I was probably trying
to run it through a *little* too fast), the blade stopped and the reset
switch popped. Stupid me reset it, tried again (everything powered up
normally) and after a bit more cutting it happened again. Now every time I
start the saw the blade begins spinning, but it doesn't sound (or look) like
it's running at full power. She feels like she's revving up to get up to
speed, but once it nears that point the reset switch always pops. I've tried
leaving it for 15 minutes, an hour, etc, before trying it again, always with
the same result.

I opened up the power box connected to the switch and reset button and gave
it a good clean out - very dirty. I also tool the air compressor to the
motor and gave it a good blow out (didn't disassemble it, though). I've
tried connecting it directly to the outlet (to eliminate the extension
cord), no luck (I am on 220 service).

I'm a little lost and wondering if there's something I might be missing in
trying to get this sorted. Is it possibly a capacitor problem? The saw is
old, but was running perfectly well until I took it to stupid village
yesterday. I personally don't think it's the motor, but then what the hell
do I know. The inside of the electrical connection box gave off what I
considered to be a slightly funny smell when the second reset happened, so
that leads me to believe it may be the source of the problem. The
connections in there are pretty grubby, but I haven't tested it all yet (any
advice for the electronically impaired here so that I can do it right?).

Please, Obi-wans of woodworking, you're my only hope.

Any advice or insight appreciated, including those laced with sarcasm and a
general disdain for a classic dumbass-kills-saw types.

Thanks,
Dan



Direct Drive? 220V? What exactly is the model number for this table
saw?

Frank

"Dan" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

Yesterday afternoon I was running a board through my direct drive table
saw, an older 10" Delta model. Half way through the board (I was probably
trying to run it through a *little* too fast), the blade stopped and the
reset switch popped. Stupid me reset it, tried again (everything powered
up normally) and after a bit more cutting it happened again. Now every
time I start the saw the blade begins spinning, but it doesn't sound (or
look) like it's running at full power. She feels like she's revving up to
get up to speed, but once it nears that point the reset switch always
pops. I've tried leaving it for 15 minutes, an hour, etc, before trying it
again, always with the same result.

I opened up the power box connected to the switch and reset button and
gave it a good clean out - very dirty. I also tool the air compressor to
the motor and gave it a good blow out (didn't disassemble it, though).
I've tried connecting it directly to the outlet (to eliminate the
extension cord), no luck (I am on 220 service).

I'm a little lost and wondering if there's something I might be missing in
trying to get this sorted. Is it possibly a capacitor problem? The saw is
old, but was running perfectly well until I took it to stupid village
yesterday. I personally don't think it's the motor, but then what the hell
do I know. The inside of the electrical connection box gave off what I
considered to be a slightly funny smell when the second reset happened, so
that leads me to believe it may be the source of the problem. The
connections in there are pretty grubby, but I haven't tested it all yet
(any advice for the electronically impaired here so that I can do it
right?).

Please, Obi-wans of woodworking, you're my only hope.

Any advice or insight appreciated, including those laced with sarcasm and
a general disdain for a classic dumbass-kills-saw types.

Thanks,
Dan

Test the run/start capacitor.
Dave



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"Dan" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

Yesterday afternoon I was running a board through my direct drive table
saw, an older 10" Delta model. Half way through the board (I was probably
trying to run it through a *little* too fast), the blade stopped and the
reset switch popped. Stupid me reset it, tried again (everything powered
up normally) and after a bit more cutting it happened again. Now every
time I start the saw the blade begins spinning, but it doesn't sound (or
look) like it's running at full power. She feels like she's revving up to
get up to speed, but once it nears that point the reset switch always
pops. I've tried leaving it for 15 minutes, an hour, etc, before trying it
again, always with the same result.

I opened up the power box connected to the switch and reset button and
gave it a good clean out - very dirty. I also tool the air compressor to
the motor and gave it a good blow out (didn't disassemble it, though).
I've tried connecting it directly to the outlet (to eliminate the
extension cord), no luck (I am on 220 service).

I'm a little lost and wondering if there's something I might be missing in
trying to get this sorted. Is it possibly a capacitor problem? The saw is
old, but was running perfectly well until I took it to stupid village
yesterday. I personally don't think it's the motor, but then what the hell
do I know. The inside of the electrical connection box gave off what I
considered to be a slightly funny smell when the second reset happened, so
that leads me to believe it may be the source of the problem. The
connections in there are pretty grubby, but I haven't tested it all yet
(any advice for the electronically impaired here so that I can do it
right?).

Please, Obi-wans of woodworking, you're my only hope.

Any advice or insight appreciated, including those laced with sarcasm and
a general disdain for a classic dumbass-kills-saw types.

Thanks,
Dan

The saw must be very old because all current direct drive saws run on 110
only.
However, possible reasons a

Weakened overload breaker on the saw. Every time one of these things trip,
they get a little weaker.

Weakend circuit breaker in the house for the same reason.

Bad switch (burned contacts, etc.)

Since current direct drive saws use what is called a universal motor, these
items could be suspect. Note that it would be quite easy to spend more on
fixing the old one than a new one would cost.

Bad field winding
Bad armature
Perhaps brushes although I consider this unlikely. Besides, brushes are a
user replaceable item.

Your best bet is to take the motor to a repair place.

Jim

The brushes could be worn down it it's had a lot of use, or the commutator
could be badly pitted from eating sawdust. You can look at and probably
remove the brushes. They should be farily smooth on the ends that touch the
commutator (shiny copper bit) and the commutator should be somewhat coppery
looking, although some darkening is common. The brushes should seat on the
commutator and be free to move in their holders.
Wilson
"Jim" wrote in message
om...

"Dan" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

Yesterday afternoon I was running a board through my direct drive table
saw, an older 10" Delta model. Half way through the board (I was probably
trying to run it through a *little* too fast), the blade stopped and the
reset switch popped. Stupid me reset it, tried again (everything powered
up normally) and after a bit more cutting it happened again. Now every
time I start the saw the blade begins spinning, but it doesn't sound (or
look) like it's running at full power. She feels like she's revving up to
get up to speed, but once it nears that point the reset switch always
pops. I've tried leaving it for 15 minutes, an hour, etc, before trying
it again, always with the same result.

I opened up the power box connected to the switch and reset button and
gave it a good clean out - very dirty. I also tool the air compressor to
the motor and gave it a good blow out (didn't disassemble it, though).
I've tried connecting it directly to the outlet (to eliminate the
extension cord), no luck (I am on 220 service).

I'm a little lost and wondering if there's something I might be missing
in trying to get this sorted. Is it possibly a capacitor problem? The saw
is old, but was running perfectly well until I took it to stupid village
yesterday. I personally don't think it's the motor, but then what the
hell do I know. The inside of the electrical connection box gave off what
I considered to be a slightly funny smell when the second reset happened,
so that leads me to believe it may be the source of the problem. The
connections in there are pretty grubby, but I haven't tested it all yet
(any advice for the electronically impaired here so that I can do it
right?).

Please, Obi-wans of woodworking, you're my only hope.

Any advice or insight appreciated, including those laced with sarcasm and
a general disdain for a classic dumbass-kills-saw types.

Thanks,
Dan

The saw must be very old because all current direct drive saws run on 110
only.
However, possible reasons a

Weakened overload breaker on the saw. Every time one of these things
trip, they get a little weaker.

Weakend circuit breaker in the house for the same reason.

Bad switch (burned contacts, etc.)

Since current direct drive saws use what is called a universal motor,
these items could be suspect. Note that it would be quite easy to spend
more on fixing the old one than a new one would cost.

Bad field winding
Bad armature
Perhaps brushes although I consider this unlikely. Besides, brushes are a
user replaceable item.

Your best bet is to take the motor to a repair place.

Jim

"Frank" wrote in message
ups.com...

RayV wrote:
Hey, breaking a tool happens to everyone. The place you are screwing
up is trying to fix it. This is a perfect opportunity to buy a new
tool.


Thats just silly. If a good tool can be repaired for a reasonable
cost, why waste money and throw out what could be a perfectly good tool


But it is NOT a perfectly good tool. It is a direct drive undersized, under
powered saw and now it is broken. I agree with Ray V. Time to upgrade.

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"Frank" wrote in message
ups.com...
RayV wrote:
Hey, breaking a tool happens to everyone. The place you are screwing
up is trying to fix it. This is a perfect opportunity to buy a new
tool.

Thats just silly. If a good tool can be repaired for a reasonable
cost, why waste money and throw out what could be a perfectly good tool


But it is NOT a perfectly good tool. It is a direct drive undersized, under
powered saw and now it is broken. I agree with Ray V. Time to upgrade.


Eggzactly! The OP has proven two things: 1) he uses the tool and 2)
his needs are not met by the tool which he had.

Assuming he's going to continue to use that type of tool, why would he
repair a mediocre P.O.S. that crapped out on him. Unless he was trying
to cut iron pipe with the saw, it's time he got a REAL saw.g

Not sure how this is phrased but I believe the above to be a corollary
to the "one project, one new tool" line I've been feeding my better half
for all these years.