I would like to purchase a drawknife and, not really having used one before,
I'm not sure what to look for.

My indented use will include rounding out riven pins for a timber frame
project and forming chair parts. Who knows what else.

These guys have a pretty broad selection:

http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com...d2e2d220e06a3b

I'm hoping to find some experienced guidance.

The flat-bladed models like this:

http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com...roducts_id/253

Appears considerably easier to sharpen, is there a downside?

How about width? it seems to me that the blades are way more wide than
actually necessary .... I would think tool width (not the actual edge with
would be more important for ergonomics.

Any pointers welcomed.

Thanks,

Steve

"Stephen M" wrote in message
...
I would like to purchase a drawknife and, not really having used one
before,
I'm not sure what to look for.

My indented use will include rounding out riven pins for a timber frame
project and forming chair parts. Who knows what else.
http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com...d2e2d220e06a3b

I'm hoping to find some experienced guidance.

The flat-bladed models like this:

http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com...roducts_id/253

Appears considerably easier to sharpen, is there a downside?

How about width? it seems to me that the blades are way more wide than
actually necessary .... I would think tool width (not the actual edge with
would be more important for ergonomics.

The first is great as a push knife for decoy work or where you can't get a
good enough grip to "draw" the knife toward you. I have one, seldom use it.
Rather whittle.

For pegs you won't need a long knife. The carvers' is nice, I have one
from Lee Valley, but for chair legs you'll appreciate the length as you
start at one corner and skew and draw it. Moves the wood out easier. Also
why I like the bellied types better than the straight. On short draws the
belly is the skew that makes the shaving curl. The two cherries 9" would
be my choice. I like the handle angle. My big knife has handles almost
perpendicular to the blade, and can be fatiguing.

Build a Bodgers' bench so you have a good clamp. Then get a LV low angle
spokeshave or two. Safe, almost as fast, and incredibly long-lived edge.

The first is great as a push knife for decoy work or where you can't get a
good enough grip to "draw" the knife toward you. I have one, seldom use
it.
Rather whittle.

For pegs you won't need a long knife. The carvers' is nice, I have one
from Lee Valley, but for chair legs you'll appreciate the length as you
start at one corner and skew and draw it. Moves the wood out easier.
Also
why I like the bellied types better than the straight. On short draws the
belly is the skew that makes the shaving curl. The two cherries 9" would
be my choice. I like the handle angle. My big knife has handles almost
perpendicular to the blade, and can be fatiguing.


Thanks George. That precisely the type of feedback I was looking for.

Build a Bodgers' bench so you have a good clamp.

It's already on my summer project list. I have a neighbor who is raizing a
barn in the next few weeks. I'm going to try to scam as much recycled timber
as possible. I intend to use "bits of barn for the bodger bench"

Then get a LV low angle
spokeshave or two. Safe, almost as fast, and incredibly long-lived edge.

I have the LV rosewood handled spokeshaves.... it was a very nice gift.

Last night I was puttering, trying to transform a modest white oak limb from
a yard trimming into a 40" timber framers "persuader" mallet handle. I
roughed it out with the bandsaw, then followed with the spokeshaves. I found
that the shaves were the wrong tool for the job as they were unable to
remove much stock because of the limitted mouth opening (1/32" at best).

I assumed that a drawknife is really the right tool for that job, and I
should save the spoke shave for the more delicate work.
Or does the LV LA spokeshave have a bigger mouth to accomodate rough work.

-Steve

"Stephen M" wrote in message
...
I assumed that a drawknife is really the right tool for that job, and I
should save the spoke shave for the more delicate work.
Or does the LV LA spokeshave have a bigger mouth to accomodate rough
work.

The aluminum body one can be adjusted to what you want. With the thick
blade and the up bevel, you can do some prodigious hogging with it, even on
green wood. I know I do.

Use your fancy for delicate, or reset the blade in the aluminum body for
fine work.