I have an oldie but goodie Rockwell contractor saw (34-400) whose fence
is off between 1/16 and 1/8 at the back end. I have gone the route of
playing with the trunions and checking the runout, and I am now
convinced it is the fence. The rhetorical question first: Is this why
Mr. Biesemeyer is revered?

Is anyone familiar with this particular fence and can offer some advice,
or perhaps there is some well known general information that I'm
missing. Best thanks in advance.

Never worry about rhetorical questions.

Where would the world be without them?

On Tue, 02 May 2006 15:44:47 GMT, LDR
wrote:

I have an oldie but goodie Rockwell contractor saw (34-400) whose fence
is off between 1/16 and 1/8 at the back end. I have gone the route of
playing with the trunions and checking the runout, and I am now
convinced it is the fence. The rhetorical question first: Is this why
Mr. Biesemeyer is revered?

Mr. Biesemeyer makes a fine product. However, the fence with the
least deflection of all is the Jetlock fence that is probably on your
saw.


Is anyone familiar with this particular fence and can offer some advice,
or perhaps there is some well known general information that I'm
missing. Best thanks in advance.

First, the trunions have nothing to do with fence alignment. Align
your blade to the slot by adjusting the trunion position. Make sure
when you have done that that you can get to a full 45 tilt without
contacting your insert.

Make sure that your guide rails are straight. On your model do the
guide rails attach to both the table and the wings? Sometimes if a
wing is projecting too far to the front or rear of the table, when the
guide rails are attached to it it will cause them to bow, giving you a
variable alignment depending on how far from the blade you are. You
might even have to shim the special bolts a little if your wings are
not the same

Also make sure your rear lock adjustment knob is adjusted so that the
fence locks with sufficient pressure

Then align your fence to the slot. Lock it. If it stays aligned you
are OK. If it does not, unlock the fence, loosen the two machine
screws on the top of the fence that hold it to the fence block and
adjust it in the direction it needs to go. Tighten and check again.
There is not a lot of adjustment here so if you can't get there maybe
your fence block is worn out. If so call mr biesemeyer and get a nice
fence.

Good luck

Frank

In article ,
LDR wrote:

I have an oldie but goodie Rockwell contractor saw (34-400) whose fence
is off between 1/16 and 1/8 at the back end. I have gone the route of
playing with the trunions and checking the runout, and I am now
convinced it is the fence. The rhetorical question first: Is this why
Mr. Biesemeyer is revered?

Is anyone familiar with this particular fence and can offer some advice,
or perhaps there is some well known general information that I'm
missing. Best thanks in advance.

If you have a typical jetlock style fence, there should be 2 bolts at
the front. Loosen them, tap the fence as required to make it parallel
to a miter slot, then retighten the bolts. Recheck the fence for
being parallel to the slot, and you're done.

Of course, the blade must be adjusted (via loosening the trunions as
you mentioned) to be paralle to the miter slot also.

It is worthwhile checking out a copy of Kelly Mehler's Tablesaw book
from the library or purchasing a copy. There are several other equally
informative books & authors also, IMO Mehler's book is one of the
best.
--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

In article .com,
wrote:
Never worry about rhetorical questions.

Spelling counts!!!

That word is properly "rhett-orical", and defined as: A question you ask,
and frankly my dear, don't give a dam about the answer.



Where would the world be without them?

Tara.

obviously.