Hi,
The motor on my old Craftsman 10" table saw finally burned up a few months
ago. My wife and I are building a house and I am constantly needing to rip
long lenghts of 2-by material. I'm sure a new blade would have helped, but
the saw would always overheat badly and want to stall. I always wanted a
new motor, so even though I'm completely broke because of the house, I was
almost happy when the old one gave up.

I thought about Harbor Freight, but the ones I used on my air compressor
just didn't last. I ended up buying a 230v 3 hp (14amp) Marathon brand air
compressor motor from Enco for $162, part number 891-4959. I was surprised
by the quality, it seems like a very nice piece for the money. It is,
however, very open and therefore needs some kind of a home-made sawdust
shield. I wired in a dedicated 20 amp recepticle and bought 35 feet of #8
SJT with large twist-lock plug and used the original power switch.

As the new motor uses a 56H frame, it mounted right up with no problems. At
the same time I got a new Freud rip blade. WOW! What a difference. That
thing doesn't even slow down. It literally cuts like butter. When you
start it, it INSTANTLY comes up to full rpm. It's REALLY amazing. Really
worth the money. The long dedicated power cord is great also, something I
should have done a long time ago. No more plugging and unplugging. That
actually may be the best part.

Anyway, I thought I'd post because there are so many of these old saws out
there and I am really, really happy with the results. Now, if I could only
afford a good fence system...

-Tony-

"Tony Jester" wrote in message
t...
Hi,
The motor on my old Craftsman 10" table saw finally burned up a few months
ago. My wife and I are building a house and I am constantly needing to
rip
long lenghts of 2-by material. I'm sure a new blade would have helped,
but
the saw would always overheat badly and want to stall. I always wanted a
new motor, so even though I'm completely broke because of the house, I was
almost happy when the old one gave up.

I thought about Harbor Freight, but the ones I used on my air compressor
just didn't last. I ended up buying a 230v 3 hp (14amp) Marathon brand
air
compressor motor from Enco for $162, part number 891-4959. I was
surprised
by the quality, it seems like a very nice piece for the money. It is,
however, very open and therefore needs some kind of a home-made sawdust
shield. I wired in a dedicated 20 amp recepticle and bought 35 feet of #8
SJT with large twist-lock plug and used the original power switch.

As the new motor uses a 56H frame, it mounted right up with no problems.
At
the same time I got a new Freud rip blade. WOW! What a difference. That
thing doesn't even slow down. It literally cuts like butter. When you
start it, it INSTANTLY comes up to full rpm. It's REALLY amazing. Really
worth the money. The long dedicated power cord is great also, something I
should have done a long time ago. No more plugging and unplugging. That
actually may be the best part.

Anyway, I thought I'd post because there are so many of these old saws out
there and I am really, really happy with the results. Now, if I could
only
afford a good fence system...

-Tony-

Good luck with that motor. A replacement motor would have had a a service
factor of at least 1.0 and would have been totally enclosed, which would
have kept out dust. I'd be really reluctant about putting a non-TEFC motor
into a table saw. Hope it works out.

todd

Same thought Todd... I'm concerned about a dust fire with an open
motor... Keep it clean, Tony...
OTOH, I know how good it feels to have a saw and blade that just eats
wood like it's a marshmellow puff...

denny

An open motor on a table saw is just looking for trouble, and using the
original switch that was probably intended for 1 horsepower and 120 volts on
the new 3 horse motor also spells disaster. The saw's wiring also needs to
be upgraded as well as the power cord. If the switch doesn't short out and
electrocute you it will surely burn up very soon, or it may weld itself in
the ON position at the exact time that you really need to shut of the saw
"right now" because of some saw cutting disaster. One of these stupid
mistakes will likely burn down your new house that you have worked so hard
to build, electrocute you, or saw your arm off because the saw won't shut
off. If you still think you've made a great improvement in your saw, then I
can only say that you had better have your insurance paid up.
--
Charley

"Tony Jester" wrote in message
t...
Hi,
The motor on my old Craftsman 10" table saw finally burned up a few months
ago. My wife and I are building a house and I am constantly needing to
rip
long lenghts of 2-by material. I'm sure a new blade would have helped,
but
the saw would always overheat badly and want to stall. I always wanted a
new motor, so even though I'm completely broke because of the house, I was
almost happy when the old one gave up.

I thought about Harbor Freight, but the ones I used on my air compressor
just didn't last. I ended up buying a 230v 3 hp (14amp) Marathon brand
air
compressor motor from Enco for $162, part number 891-4959. I was
surprised
by the quality, it seems like a very nice piece for the money. It is,
however, very open and therefore needs some kind of a home-made sawdust
shield. I wired in a dedicated 20 amp recepticle and bought 35 feet of #8
SJT with large twist-lock plug and used the original power switch.

As the new motor uses a 56H frame, it mounted right up with no problems.
At
the same time I got a new Freud rip blade. WOW! What a difference. That
thing doesn't even slow down. It literally cuts like butter. When you
start it, it INSTANTLY comes up to full rpm. It's REALLY amazing. Really
worth the money. The long dedicated power cord is great also, something I
should have done a long time ago. No more plugging and unplugging. That
actually may be the best part.

Anyway, I thought I'd post because there are so many of these old saws out
there and I am really, really happy with the results. Now, if I could
only
afford a good fence system...

-Tony-

On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 05:01:16 GMT, "Tony Jester"
wrote:

I ended up buying a 230v 3 hp (14amp) Marathon brand air
compressor motor from Enco for $162, part number 891-4959. I was surprised
by the quality, it seems like a very nice piece for the money. It is,
however, very open and therefore needs some kind of a home-made sawdust
shield. I wired in a dedicated 20 amp recepticle and bought 35 feet of #8
SJT with large twist-lock plug and used the original power switch.

As the new motor uses a 56H frame, it mounted right up with no problems. At
the same time I got a new Freud rip blade. WOW! What a difference.

I won't go quite the gloom-and-doom route of other posters, but I will
point out some things that you may not be aware of:

A 3 hp motor is serious overkill for a contractor type saw. Due to the
design of the motor mount, the only tension provided on the single
belt is from the weight of the motor. Because of the single belt and
only moderate tension available (and varies with the height of the
blade) a lot of your 3 hp (probably half--maybe more) will never make
it to the blade. A true 1½ hp (not a Sears 4 hp "developed") motor
would have been plenty. When I replaced the motor on mine many years
ago, I used a 1 hp and never found it inadequate.

#8 wire? Good grief. #12 would have been absolutely fine, although no
one would have shaken their head at #10. But #8? Total waste of your
money. Also, good luck getting that wire into anything rated at 20
amps.

If your testing was a rip, then your new rip blade would account for
quite a bit of the difference in performance you noted.

The switch. A lot depends on what kind of switch was originally there.
My old Craftsman had a simple toggle switch; sort of like the kind
you'd find on a radio. It seemed fairly heavy duty, but it just looked
like a toy compared to one of those cool green-on/red-off switches,
which would be okay for your motor. If it was one of the more modern
switches that Sears used on their saws, jointers, etc., it's probably
okay (so long as it's a DPST). However, if the contacts were only
rated at say 10 amps (not unlikely for the original 1½ hp motor), it's
not beefy enough for the 3 hp current draw. You need to look at the
ratings on the switch.

Marathon motors are considered decent, but with that open frame, don't
look for a long life. That was a good price for a 3 hp Marathon, but
not really the right motor for the saw.


--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

"Denny" wrote in message
oups.com...
Same thought Todd... I'm concerned about a dust fire with an open
motor... Keep it clean, Tony...


Not likely, no sparks and most Craftsman machines were not equipped with
TEFC motors. Nor was my Rockwell drill press.

"todd" wrote in message
. ..

Good luck with that motor. A replacement motor would have had a a service
factor of at least 1.0 and would have been totally enclosed, which would
have kept out dust. I'd be really reluctant about putting a non-TEFC
motor
into a table saw.

ENCO sells TEFC motors as well. Unfortunately for me, they are twice the
price. I tried to make the point that, at the moment, I am seriously short
on fundage. With the shield I mentioned, I think it will be fine.

"Charley" wrote in message
...
An open motor on a table saw is just looking for trouble, and using the
original switch that was probably intended for 1 horsepower and 120 volts
on
the new 3 horse motor also spells disaster. The saw's wiring also needs to
be upgraded as well as the power cord. If the switch doesn't short out
and
electrocute you it will surely burn up very soon, or it may weld itself in
the ON position at the exact time that you really need to shut of the saw
"right now" because of some saw cutting disaster. One of these stupid
mistakes will likely burn down your new house that you have worked so hard
to build, electrocute you, or saw your arm off because the saw won't shut
off. If you still think you've made a great improvement in your saw, then
I
can only say that you had better have your insurance paid up.

Wow, you have no spirit of adventure at all, do you. You expecting to live
forever or something?

"LRod" wrote in message
...

I won't go quite the gloom-and-doom route of other posters, but I will
point out some things that you may not be aware of:

#8 wire? Good grief. #12 would have been absolutely fine, although no
one would have shaken their head at #10. But #8? Total waste of your
money. Also, good luck getting that wire into anything rated at 20
amps.

The instructions that came with the motor were very specific about using #8
wire for anything over 25 feet as I recall.

If your testing was a rip, then your new rip blade would account for
quite a bit of the difference in performance you noted.

Yes, I believe I made that point.

The switch.

Yea, I realized after I posted I should have put a disclaimer in about the
switch. All I need is a magnetic starter. Sometimes you can find used ones
pretty cheap, especially 3-phase, which of course work fine for single phase
also. If I ever find one, I promise to install it to make you guys feel
better.

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Hey, good for you!

-Tony-

Shamelessly hotrodding everything he could get his hands on since WAY before
that!
http://pages.prodigy.net/tjester/index.html

Wow, you have no spirit of adventure at all, do you. You expecting to
live
forever or something?

Don't post if you don't want advice.
The person who owned my saw before me put a magnetic switch on that was too
small for the motor. He "compensated" by using two poles rather than one,
figuring the current was divided. Well, it fused closed.
There are right way and wrong ways to do things; and you innovate at your
own risk.

A new blade for $50 would have saved you from spending $160 on a new motor
that is inappropriate for your saw. But go ahead doing things your way.
Geez, I hope you are a troll.

"todd" wrote in message
. ..


Good luck with that motor. A replacement motor would have had a a service
factor of at least 1.0 and would have been totally enclosed, which would
have kept out dust. I'd be really reluctant about putting a non-TEFC
motor into a table saw. Hope it works out.

todd

My Delta TS I bought new 5 years ago had an open motor. Delta's
top-o-the-line contractors saw. I would not worry about it!
Greg

On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 14:40:28 GMT, "Tony Jester"
wrote:

"LRod" wrote in message
.. .

I won't go quite the gloom-and-doom route of other posters, but I will
point out some things that you may not be aware of:

#8 wire? Good grief. #12 would have been absolutely fine, although no
one would have shaken their head at #10. But #8? Total waste of your
money. Also, good luck getting that wire into anything rated at 20
amps.

The instructions that came with the motor were very specific about using #8
wire for anything over 25 feet as I recall.

Okay, then answer this for me: in your original post you said, "I
wired in a dedicated 20 amp recepticle and bought 35 feet of #8
SJT with large twist-lock plug and used the original power switch."

I read that as the 20 amp receptacle was wired with 12 ga wire, true?
If so, then you accomplish nothing by plugging 8 ga wire into that
circuit. It's like coupling a 2" fire hose to a 3/4" garden hose.
You're not going to get anything more out of that 2" hose than can be
delivered through the intervening 3/4" hose.

What does the label on the motor say for FLA (full load amps)? Very
likely 15-18. Even if it were the truest 3 hp motor on the planet, and
operating under a constant heavy load (not possible with the
contractor saw lashup) it might still run on a 20 amp circuit (12 ga
wire) and would be absolutely comfortable on a 30 amp circuit (10 ga
wire). Even 5 hp machinery is happy on a 30 amp circuit. This is what
I'm getting at; 8 ga is way over the top. Toller must have written
those instructions, that's how unrealistic it is.

I don't fault you for "following instructions", I'm just saying it was
a waste of resources.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

Charley wrote:
An open motor on a table saw is just looking for trouble,
SNIP

Ok, this I gotta disagree with - it smacks of the same argument that's
been passed around a bunch of times about the DC's exploding from
sucking dust.

My Craftsman TS has had the same open motor hanging off the back it came
with 50 years ago, and it hasn't exploded or burned anyone's house down
yet. Heck, it never even seems to get hot. I know that many older
contractors saws came with open motors, and even some of the newer
cheaper ones with the universal motors that are stuck up under the table
have open housings. None of those are exploding or burning the owner's
houses down.

While dust may be a hazard under certain circumstances, the speed at
which that dust blows through this motor is at such high velocity and
with so much air going in with it I just do not believe it is an issue.

BTW, this TS has been used all that time without any dust collection at
all, unless you can count the old burlap bag hanging off the bottom - so
yes the motor has been exposed to a large amount of dust over the years.

FWIW I am not advocating forgoing safety and common sense. Just that
some things are straw men issues.

Charley wrote:
and using the original switch that was probably intended for 1
horsepower and 120 volts on the new 3 horse motor also spells disaster.

Just wanted to add that I fully agree with this part - the OP is asking
for disaster with this one. The original switch was a good one when it
was made, but by today's standards it is not a high quality switch. In
addition it is old and most likely worn, and I just cannot believe it is
not seriously under-rated for the new 3hp motor.

"Toller" wrote in message
...
Wow, you have no spirit of adventure at all, do you. You expecting to
live
forever or something?

Don't post if you don't want advice.
The person who owned my saw before me put a magnetic switch on that was
too
small for the motor. He "compensated" by using two poles rather than one,
figuring the current was divided. Well, it fused closed.
There are right way and wrong ways to do things; and you innovate at your
own risk.

Apparently your sense of humor is broken today Toller. Tony's comment is
obviously a tongue in cheek comment.


A new blade for $50 would have saved you from spending $160 on a new motor
that is inappropriate for your saw. But go ahead doing things your way.
Geez, I hope you are a troll.



Ummmm... didn't he state that the original motor bit the dust? That $50
blade won't do much once the magic smoke escapes.

--

-Mike-

On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 14:40:28 GMT, "Tony Jester"
wrote:

"LRod" wrote in message
.. .

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Hey, good for you!

-Tony-

Shamelessly hotrodding everything he could get his hands on since WAY before
that!
http://pages.prodigy.net/tjester/index.html

Hey, are you Stacey David in disguise?

I've been whoring myself since long before '99, too. It's just that it
became easier to do when I got a webpage up. What I'm whoring,
actually, is the Norm's Tools part of it, if you didn't know that
already.


--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

In article ,
LRod duckecho@gmail-dot-com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 14:40:28 GMT, "Tony Jester"
wrote:

"LRod" wrote in message
. ..

I won't go quite the gloom-and-doom route of other posters, but I will
point out some things that you may not be aware of:

#8 wire? Good grief. #12 would have been absolutely fine, although no
one would have shaken their head at #10. But #8? Total waste of your
money. Also, good luck getting that wire into anything rated at 20
amps.

The instructions that came with the motor were very specific about using #8
wire for anything over 25 feet as I recall.

Okay, then answer this for me: in your original post you said, "I
wired in a dedicated 20 amp recepticle and bought 35 feet of #8
SJT with large twist-lock plug and used the original power switch."

I read that as the 20 amp receptacle was wired with 12 ga wire, true?
If so, then you accomplish nothing by plugging 8 ga wire into that
circuit. It's like coupling a 2" fire hose to a 3/4" garden hose.
You're not going to get anything more out of that 2" hose than can be
delivered through the intervening 3/4" hose.

What does the label on the motor say for FLA (full load amps)? Very
likely 15-18. Even if it were the truest 3 hp motor on the planet, and
operating under a constant heavy load (not possible with the
contractor saw lashup) it might still run on a 20 amp circuit (12 ga
wire) and would be absolutely comfortable on a 30 amp circuit (10 ga
wire). Even 5 hp machinery is happy on a 30 amp circuit. This is what
I'm getting at; 8 ga is way over the top. Toller must have written
those instructions, that's how unrealistic it is.

I don't fault you for "following instructions", I'm just saying it was
a waste of resources.

I'm going to _disagree_ with your dissertation, but only 'somewhat'.

The "I2R" losses in the wiring between the breaker-panel and the motor
are related to the _total_ resistance of the wiring between those two
points. Using lower-resistance wiring for part of the run _does_ decrease
the total parasitic loss.

With the start-up load being in the range of 2-3x the rated FLA, there is
likely a measurable benefit to that 35 ft of 8 ga., vs an equal length
of say 12 ga. -- *regardless* of what the rest of the wiring is (gauge
_or_ length).

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...

"Toller" wrote in message
...
Wow, you have no spirit of adventure at all, do you. You expecting to
live
forever or something?

Don't post if you don't want advice.
The person who owned my saw before me put a magnetic switch on that was
too
small for the motor. He "compensated" by using two poles rather than
one,
figuring the current was divided. Well, it fused closed.
There are right way and wrong ways to do things; and you innovate at your
own risk.

Apparently your sense of humor is broken today Toller. Tony's comment is
obviously a tongue in cheek comment.


A new blade for $50 would have saved you from spending $160 on a new
motor
that is inappropriate for your saw. But go ahead doing things your way.
Geez, I hope you are a troll.



Ummmm... didn't he state that the original motor bit the dust? That $50
blade won't do much once the magic smoke escapes.

No, he said the motor overheated because of a lousy blade; but he wanted a
new motor so he let it burn out. Then he bought a crap motor and a new
blade.

"Toller" wrote in message
...


No, he said the motor overheated because of a lousy blade; but he wanted a
new motor so he let it burn out. Then he bought a crap motor and a new
blade.



A crap motor? Please Toller - don't do this to yourself.

--

-Mike-

"Greg O" wrote in message
...

"todd" wrote in message
. ..


Good luck with that motor. A replacement motor would have had a a
service factor of at least 1.0 and would have been totally enclosed,
which would have kept out dust. I'd be really reluctant about putting a
non-TEFC motor into a table saw. Hope it works out.

todd

My Delta TS I bought new 5 years ago had an open motor. Delta's
top-o-the-line contractors saw. I would not worry about it!
Greg

Well, I guess all these companies putting TEFC motors in their saws are just
wasting money, eh?

todd

todd wrote:

Well, I guess all these companies putting TEFC motors in their saws are just
wasting money, eh?

The original poster was talking about a contractor's saw. Most of the
dust drops to the floor, with some going out the back. Any accumulated
dust on the motor is easily blown out, and because it's hanging out the
back you can *see* the dust build-up.

In a cabinet saw, the motor is enclosed with all the dust flying around
it, and you may forget about it getting dusty because you don't see it
all the time. In that environment you'd certainly want a TEFC motor.

Chris

"todd" wrote in message
...
"Greg O" wrote in message
...

"todd" wrote in message
. ..


Good luck with that motor. A replacement motor would have had a a
service factor of at least 1.0 and would have been totally enclosed,
which would have kept out dust. I'd be really reluctant about putting a
non-TEFC motor into a table saw. Hope it works out.

todd

My Delta TS I bought new 5 years ago had an open motor. Delta's
top-o-the-line contractors saw. I would not worry about it!
Greg

Well, I guess all these companies putting TEFC motors in their saws are
just wasting money, eh?

todd


Not wasting their money, but not run for cover the sky is falling either.
Would a TEFC motor be better? Yes. how much better? Damned if I could tell
you!
It often comes down to the money. Spend $150 for a open motor that may last
1/2 a century, or a TEFC motor, for twice the price, that may never need to
be replaced. I know 50 years from now I won't care so I may be inclined to
buy an open motor and let my children worry about it after they inherit the
saw!
My neighbor finally replaced the open motor on his Dad's Craftsman table saw
a year or so ago. Same motor that has been hanging on the saw for nearly 50
years. The saw has seen considerable use. His Dad had a woodshop that most
of us would have drooled over!
Greg

"Charley" wrote in message
...
An open motor on a table saw is just looking for trouble,

Oh my, you'd better tell the people at Delta about that.

"todd" writes:
"Greg O" wrote in message
...

"todd" wrote in message
. ..


Good luck with that motor. A replacement motor would have had a a
service factor of at least 1.0 and would have been totally enclosed,
which would have kept out dust. I'd be really reluctant about putting a
non-TEFC motor into a table saw. Hope it works out.

todd

My Delta TS I bought new 5 years ago had an open motor. Delta's
top-o-the-line contractors saw. I would not worry about it!
Greg

Well, I guess all these companies putting TEFC motors in their saws are just
wasting money, eh?

Perhaps Greg is confused about "open motor". As it is a contractor
saw, IIRC the motor hangs out the back "in the open" as it were. I'd
be very surprised if Delta ships a non TEFC motor on any tablesaw.

scott

"Tony Jester" wrote in message
t...
Hi,
The motor on my old Craftsman 10" table saw finally burned up a few months
ago. My wife and I are building a house and I am constantly needing to
rip
long lenghts of 2-by material. I'm sure a new blade would have helped,
but
the saw would always overheat badly and want to stall. I always wanted a
new motor, so even though I'm completely broke because of the house, I was
almost happy when the old one gave up.

I thought about Harbor Freight, but the ones I used on my air compressor
just didn't last. I ended up buying a 230v 3 hp (14amp) Marathon brand
air
compressor motor from Enco for $162, part number 891-4959. I was
surprised
by the quality, it seems like a very nice piece for the money. It is,
however, very open and therefore needs some kind of a home-made sawdust
shield. I wired in a dedicated 20 amp recepticle and bought 35 feet of #8
SJT with large twist-lock plug and used the original power switch.

As the new motor uses a 56H frame, it mounted right up with no problems.
At
the same time I got a new Freud rip blade. WOW! What a difference. That
thing doesn't even slow down. It literally cuts like butter. When you
start it, it INSTANTLY comes up to full rpm. It's REALLY amazing. Really
worth the money. The long dedicated power cord is great also, something I
should have done a long time ago. No more plugging and unplugging. That
actually may be the best part.

Anyway, I thought I'd post because there are so many of these old saws out
there and I am really, really happy with the results. Now, if I could
only
afford a good fence system...

-Tony-



Cool, I hope that it works great for you and lasts a long time.

"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
et...



Perhaps Greg is confused about "open motor". As it is a contractor
saw, IIRC the motor hangs out the back "in the open" as it were. I'd
be very surprised if Delta ships a non TEFC motor on any tablesaw.


Go out to a retail web site and download a Delta owner's manual Scott. The
picture clearly shows a non-TEFC motor.

--

-Mike-

"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
et...
"todd" writes:
"Greg O" wrote in message
...

"todd" wrote in message
. ..


Good luck with that motor. A replacement motor would have had a a
service factor of at least 1.0 and would have been totally enclosed,
which would have kept out dust. I'd be really reluctant about putting
a
non-TEFC motor into a table saw. Hope it works out.

todd

My Delta TS I bought new 5 years ago had an open motor. Delta's
top-o-the-line contractors saw. I would not worry about it!
Greg

Well, I guess all these companies putting TEFC motors in their saws are
just
wasting money, eh?

Perhaps Greg is confused about "open motor". As it is a contractor
saw, IIRC the motor hangs out the back "in the open" as it were. I'd
be very surprised if Delta ships a non TEFC motor on any tablesaw.

scott


Where do you want me to send the pics? It is a open motor! Trust me, I know
the difference!
Greg

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
I guess that new blade made that new motor spin up faster than the
old blade huh? Must have something to do with impedance and start
current.


Don't be silly. The set of the teeth makes the difference. If they are
wide, they offer more wind resistance and slow down the motor. Personally,
I use a thin kerf blade for two reasons. The savings on wood is enough to
put one of my grandkids through college, and the faster spin up time allows
me to get two more projects a year done.

PS: Run that drill press 10% faster and you gain two hours sleep when you
change to daylight savings time.

I built a fence for my old Craftsman table saw - pictures and drawings at
http://home.san.rr.com/jeffnann/Wood...Shop/Shop.html about halfway down
the page...
--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email

"JeffB" wrote in message
...
I built a fence for my old Craftsman table saw - pictures and drawings at
http://home.san.rr.com/jeffnann/Wood...Shop/Shop.html about halfway
down
the page...
--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email


Argh! I saw this web page a few weeks ago and drooled over your workmanship
on that fence Jeff. That's just a beautiful thing.

--

-Mike-

Now you know why I won't buy Crapsman tools! You really should put a
TEFC motor on it, though.
Bugs

Mike Marlow wrote:
"Ba r r y" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 02:53:54 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:

PS: Run that drill press 10% faster and you gain two hours sleep when
you
change to daylight savings time.


Hmmm... So, if I run it backwards, I can fix mistakes.

Fix mistakes...

Please specify the speed required to run backwards and fix mistakes.

Not enough information to answer your question!

How big are the mistakes and how pressed for time are you?

I also have a Delta contractor's saw with an open moter. I think the
actual terminology is "ODP" for "open drip proof" it is not quite as
"open" as some other motors I have seen. I have had this saw for 7
years and it was a few years old when I purchased it, so I would say
the motor must be at least 10 years old now.

Like a previous poster said, I don't think a TEFC motor is essential
in a Contractors saw. Other than putting a shop vac hose up to the
motor opening a few times a year, I've never done anything special to
it and never had any trouble.

Also, a TEFC is less efficient than an open motor, all other things
being equal. I don't know how significant this is, but would point out
that Jet uses a TEFC on their contractor saw and there are often
complaints about them tripping 20A breakers on 120V circuits. Delta
typically uses an open motor at the same 1.5hp and has few complaints
in this regard. The reated current draw of the 2 motors is different
as well, with the Jet motor requiring more. I don't recall the exact
figures but I believe it was on the order of a few amps.


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

In article ,
Ba r r y wrote:
On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 08:07:44 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:


Please specify the speed required to run backwards and fix mistakes.

I was hoping Ed knew that...

It's pretty darn fast if you can believe the Superman comics an movies

--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

Thanks! It wasn't that difficult. The big pieces turned out to be standard sizes
and shapes from the metal supplier. I cut everything with a hand hacksaw,
(except for the 1/2" plate - I got some power assist for that) smoothed the cuts
with files, then had a local shop do the welding. Paint was good ol' Rustoleum.
It's well within reach of anyone who wants to save some $$$s.

The biggest challenge actually was getting all the dimensions and the design.
That's why I thought posting my drawings might be useful to others...
--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email

Mike Marlow wrote:

Argh! I saw this web page a few weeks ago and drooled over your workmanship
on that fence Jeff. That's just a beautiful thing.

"Unquestionably Confused" wrote in message
. net...
Mike Marlow wrote:
"Ba r r y" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 02:53:54 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:

PS: Run that drill press 10% faster and you gain two hours sleep when
you
change to daylight savings time.


Hmmm... So, if I run it backwards, I can fix mistakes.

Fix mistakes...

Please specify the speed required to run backwards and fix mistakes.

Not enough information to answer your question!

How big are the mistakes and how pressed for time are you?


Think like a man - we never do anything half way.

--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" wrote in
:


"Unquestionably Confused" wrote in message
. net...
Mike Marlow wrote:
"Ba r r y" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 02:53:54 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:

PS: Run that drill press 10% faster and you gain two hours sleep
when
you
change to daylight savings time.


Hmmm... So, if I run it backwards, I can fix mistakes.

Fix mistakes...

Please specify the speed required to run backwards and fix
mistakes.

Not enough information to answer your question!

How big are the mistakes and how pressed for time are you?


Think like a man - we never do anything half way.


Is that what the Delta Unsaw is for? Damn, got to get one.
Hank

todd wrote:
: factor of at least 1.0 and would have been totally enclosed, which would
: have kept out dust. I'd be really reluctant about putting a non-TEFC motor
: into a table saw. Hope it works out.



Aren't most Delta motors open? One reason I prefer Jet, whose motors
are all TEFC.

-- Andy Barss

"Andrew Barss" wrote in message

Aren't most Delta motors open? One reason I prefer Jet, whose motors
are all TEFC.

The ones on contractor saws are. They've been putting them on hundreds of
thousands of saws for years so it must not be the problem you perceive.

"Ba r r y" wrote in message

Please specify the speed required to run backwards and fix mistakes.


Full speed will work, but be sure to keep the door open as the DC must also
be run backwards at the same time.