I have cut some lumber out of black locust firewood. When just fine, cuts
it like butter.

A friend had a black walnut tree taken down. I got the tree guy to leave me
a 4' piece of the 4' diameter trunk. Well, actually he sold it to me, cut
in half, for $30.

I split it up into manageable pieces and then tried cutting it. My band saw
just won't do it. Even at a really slow feed rate it goes to a 30 degree
drift (on the black locust it was dead straight) and then it just binds up.
I am only trying to cut a 5" thick piece.

Obviously I am doing something really wrong, but what? Okay, it is not the
right blade (1/2" 4tpi) but it worked fine on the black locust.

Any help would be appreciated, or it becomes expensive firewood.

Toller wrote:
I have cut some lumber out of black locust firewood. When just fine, cuts
it like butter.

A friend had a black walnut tree taken down. I got the tree guy to leave me
a 4' piece of the 4' diameter trunk. Well, actually he sold it to me, cut
in half, for $30.

I split it up into manageable pieces and then tried cutting it. My band saw
just won't do it. Even at a really slow feed rate it goes to a 30 degree
drift (on the black locust it was dead straight) and then it just binds up.
I am only trying to cut a 5" thick piece.

Obviously I am doing something really wrong, but what? Okay, it is not the
right blade (1/2" 4tpi) but it worked fine on the black locust.

Any help would be appreciated, or it becomes expensive firewood.

Hard to say, from here. Are you using a sled? What have you tried?

er
--
email not valid

"Toller" wrote in message

Obviously I am doing something really wrong, but what? Okay, it is not
the right blade (1/2" 4tpi) but it worked fine on the black locust.

Any help would be appreciated, or it becomes expensive firewood.

Is this the same saw you bragged that had no problem right from the factory?
Take it back and get a Jet.

"Enoch Root" wrote in message
...
Toller wrote:
I have cut some lumber out of black locust firewood. When just fine,
cuts
it like butter.

A friend had a black walnut tree taken down. I got the tree guy to leave
me
a 4' piece of the 4' diameter trunk. Well, actually he sold it to me,
cut
in half, for $30.

I split it up into manageable pieces and then tried cutting it. My band
saw
just won't do it. Even at a really slow feed rate it goes to a 30 degree
drift (on the black locust it was dead straight) and then it just binds
up.
I am only trying to cut a 5" thick piece.

Obviously I am doing something really wrong, but what? Okay, it is not
the
right blade (1/2" 4tpi) but it worked fine on the black locust.

Any help would be appreciated, or it becomes expensive firewood.

Hard to say, from here. Are you using a sled? What have you tried?

No, I have not tried a sled.
The bottom and the side I have against the fence are pretty flat, so I
didn't think I needed one; I have just been running it though the saw (well,
trying to run it though the saw) against the fence. It worked for the black
locust.
I can make a sled up easily enough and see if it helps.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
om...

"Toller" wrote in message

Obviously I am doing something really wrong, but what? Okay, it is not
the right blade (1/2" 4tpi) but it worked fine on the black locust.

Any help would be appreciated, or it becomes expensive firewood.

Is this the same saw you bragged that had no problem right from the
factory? Take it back and get a Jet.
If you bothered to read my post, I said I was doing something wrong. I am
certainly not blaming it on the saw.
But thanks for your moronic advice.

Any possibility that you forgot to tension the blade properly?

H

It's the blade guides - I used to have the exact same problems until I
switched to roller guides and a 3/4" blade on my resaw and now have no
problems at all with any wood, thickness or feed rate.

Woody

Toller wrote:
"Enoch Root" wrote in message
...

Toller wrote:

I have cut some lumber out of black locust firewood. When just fine,
cuts
it like butter.

A friend had a black walnut tree taken down. I got the tree guy to leave
me
a 4' piece of the 4' diameter trunk. Well, actually he sold it to me,
cut
in half, for $30.

I split it up into manageable pieces and then tried cutting it. My band
saw
just won't do it. Even at a really slow feed rate it goes to a 30 degree
drift (on the black locust it was dead straight) and then it just binds
up.
I am only trying to cut a 5" thick piece.

Obviously I am doing something really wrong, but what? Okay, it is not
the
right blade (1/2" 4tpi) but it worked fine on the black locust.

Any help would be appreciated, or it becomes expensive firewood.

Hard to say, from here. Are you using a sled? What have you tried?


No, I have not tried a sled.
The bottom and the side I have against the fence are pretty flat, so I
didn't think I needed one; I have just been running it though the saw (well,
trying to run it though the saw) against the fence. It worked for the black
locust.
I can make a sled up easily enough and see if it helps.

That isn't the blade the saw came with, is it? You might also consider
one with lower tpi for resawing big boards like that.

Everyone raves about the woodslicer blades, and I'm happy with the
suffolk blades I have.

Or wax the wood and send it to me.

er
--
email not valid

Anonymous wrote:
It's the blade guides - I used to have the exact same problems until I
switched to roller guides and a 3/4" blade on my resaw and now have no
problems at all with any wood, thickness or feed rate.

With a 1/2" blade it has to be jumping out of the guides to get a 30
degree drift, it's true.

Toller, your guides... they're snug up against the blade?

er
--
email not valid

In article ,
"Toller" wrote:

I split it up into manageable pieces and then tried cutting it. My band saw
just won't do it. Even at a really slow feed rate it goes to a 30 degree
drift (on the black locust it was dead straight) and then it just binds up.
I am only trying to cut a 5" thick piece.

Obviously I am doing something really wrong, but what? Okay, it is not the
right blade (1/2" 4tpi) but it worked fine on the black locust.

I'm thinking the walnut is still very green - the 4t/inch is filling
with sawdust, friction is heating up things inside the cut and swelling
the moisture-laden wood so that the blade just gets to a point where it
can't move. When the teeth fill and we push harder and the wood starts
to bind the blade, it'll wander toward the neighbor's place.

Try a 3/8" 3 tooth blade - preferably with a generous set to the teeth
so that it cuts a wide kerf to help keep things open. Timberwolf sells
such a blade just for cutting wet woods - I think Highland Hardware has
one as well, but I'm not familiar with any wide set to the teeth on that
one.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
__________

"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05

"Fly-by-Night CC" wrote in message
news
In article ,
"Toller" wrote:

I split it up into manageable pieces and then tried cutting it. My band
saw
just won't do it. Even at a really slow feed rate it goes to a 30 degree
drift (on the black locust it was dead straight) and then it just binds
up.
I am only trying to cut a 5" thick piece.

Obviously I am doing something really wrong, but what? Okay, it is not
the
right blade (1/2" 4tpi) but it worked fine on the black locust.

I'm thinking the walnut is still very green - the 4t/inch is filling
with sawdust, friction is heating up things inside the cut and swelling
the moisture-laden wood so that the blade just gets to a point where it
can't move. When the teeth fill and we push harder and the wood starts
to bind the blade, it'll wander toward the neighbor's place.


Yeh, it was cut down yesterday!

Try a 3/8" 3 tooth blade - preferably with a generous set to the teeth
so that it cuts a wide kerf to help keep things open. Timberwolf sells
such a blade just for cutting wet woods - I think Highland Hardware has
one as well, but I'm not familiar with any wide set to the teeth on that
one.

Would it help to let it dry out a few weeks? I am in no hurry; just want to
get it done more or less right.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
__________

"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05

"Enoch Root" wrote in message
news:K9udne93rP4slNLZnZ2dnUVZ_uudnZ2d@forethought. net...
Anonymous wrote:
It's the blade guides - I used to have the exact same problems until I
switched to roller guides and a 3/4" blade on my resaw and now have no
problems at all with any wood, thickness or feed rate.

With a 1/2" blade it has to be jumping out of the guides to get a 30
degree drift, it's true.

Toller, your guides... they're snug up against the blade?

Not real tight, I am a little scared of too much metal-metal contact.
I have a set of cool block that I haven't installed. Would they be okay for
this? I intended to use them with a thinner blade.
Or should I just set the steel blocks tigher?

er
--
email not valid

"Anonymous" wrote in message
oups.com...

It's the blade guides - I used to have the exact same problems until I
switched to roller guides and a 3/4" blade on my resaw and now have no
problems at all with any wood, thickness or feed rate.

What size saw do you have? Everything I have read says 3/4" won't work on a
14" saw, but that doesn't make it necessarily true.

On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 00:07:15 GMT, "Toller" wrote:

I have cut some lumber out of black locust firewood. When just fine, cuts
it like butter.

A friend had a black walnut tree taken down. I got the tree guy to leave me
a 4' piece of the 4' diameter trunk. Well, actually he sold it to me, cut
in half, for $30.

I split it up into manageable pieces and then tried cutting it. My band saw
just won't do it. Even at a really slow feed rate it goes to a 30 degree
drift (on the black locust it was dead straight) and then it just binds up.
I am only trying to cut a 5" thick piece.

Obviously I am doing something really wrong, but what? Okay, it is not the
right blade (1/2" 4tpi) but it worked fine on the black locust.

Any help would be appreciated, or it becomes expensive firewood.

As someone else said, I think it's too wet for the TPI.

I've used a 3/4" 3 TPI to cut mesquite firewood into (short) boards
and did the first cuts freehand without issue. But it was Arizona
bone dry.

On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 12:36:34 GMT, "Toller" wrote:


"Anonymous" wrote in message
roups.com...

It's the blade guides - I used to have the exact same problems until I
switched to roller guides and a 3/4" blade on my resaw and now have no
problems at all with any wood, thickness or feed rate.

What size saw do you have? Everything I have read says 3/4" won't work on a
14" saw, but that doesn't make it necessarily true.

They work on my 14" 3/4 horse ridgid and are "recommended" for resawing on the
inner door panel, but I think they suck.. I do much better with a 3/8" 3 tpi
blade..

I've found that the things that give me the most trouble on the band saw are
things that can rock.. even a little bit... they constantly change the blades
attack angle or whatever and make it bind..

I use a method now that I think I remember getting from Charlie B's site? which
is simply setting the wood on a flat piece of scrap and running a few screws
into it (away from where you're gonna cut) and running it through the saw "flat
stock side down"..
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Toller wrote:
"Enoch Root" wrote in message
news:K9udne93rP4slNLZnZ2dnUVZ_uudnZ2d@forethought. net...

Anonymous wrote:

It's the blade guides - I used to have the exact same problems until I
switched to roller guides and a 3/4" blade on my resaw and now have no
problems at all with any wood, thickness or feed rate.

With a 1/2" blade it has to be jumping out of the guides to get a 30
degree drift, it's true.

Toller, your guides... they're snug up against the blade?


Not real tight, I am a little scared of too much metal-metal contact.
I have a set of cool block that I haven't installed. Would they be okay for
this? I intended to use them with a thinner blade.
Or should I just set the steel blocks tigher?

I have roller bearings on mine, and set them so there is very little
sideways play for the blade. A little more for the rear bearings (a
bill folded twice.)

Cool blocks will also work, but you shouldn't require them for a 1/2"
blade. You can bury the blade in the cool blocks I think (don't have
them myself) and let the blade make its own clearance.

er
--
email not valid

On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 03:04:29 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Toller" wrote in message

Obviously I am doing something really wrong, but what? Okay, it is not
the right blade (1/2" 4tpi) but it worked fine on the black locust.

Any help would be appreciated, or it becomes expensive firewood.

Is this the same saw you bragged that had no problem right from the factory?
Take it back and get a Jet.

Edwin takes no prisoners.

In article ,
"Toller" wrote:

I'm thinking the walnut is still very green - the 4t/inch is filling
with sawdust, friction is heating up things inside the cut and swelling
the moisture-laden wood so that the blade just gets to a point where it
can't move. When the teeth fill and we push harder and the wood starts
to bind the blade, it'll wander toward the neighbor's place.


Yeh, it was cut down yesterday!

Try a 3/8" 3 tooth blade - preferably with a generous set to the teeth
so that it cuts a wide kerf to help keep things open. Timberwolf sells
such a blade just for cutting wet woods - I think Highland Hardware has
one as well, but I'm not familiar with any wide set to the teeth on that
one.

Would it help to let it dry out a few weeks? I am in no hurry; just want to
get it done more or less right.

What you're running into is a common problem for turners as many of us
get our wood from local sources and is usually very green. Some dripping
wet fruiting cherry I recently cut into bowl blanks was a breeze -
intermixed was some Big Leaf Maple which would bind and do what your
Black Walnut is doing. I don't think waiting a couple weeks will make
any difference because not enough moisture will be removed from the
interior to help matters. You might try posting your question over on
rec.crafts.woodturning to get their take on it.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
__________

"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05

It's a Delta's 18" bandsaw, 2 hp..... I think it's model 28-682.

Toller wrote:
What size saw do you have? Everything I have read says 3/4" won't work on a
14" saw, but that doesn't make it necessarily true.

Toller wrote:
"Anonymous" wrote in message
oups.com...

It's the blade guides - I used to have the exact same problems until I
switched to roller guides and a 3/4" blade on my resaw and now have no
problems at all with any wood, thickness or feed rate.


What size saw do you have? Everything I have read says 3/4" won't work on a
14" saw, but that doesn't make it necessarily true.

Hmm. I have one, and I've used it, and it works. But I have the riser
block, as well.

er
--
email not valid

"Toller" writes:

Try a 3/8" 3 tooth blade - preferably with a generous set to the teeth
so that it cuts a wide kerf to help keep things open. Timberwolf sells
such a blade just for cutting wet woods - I think Highland Hardware has
one as well, but I'm not familiar with any wide set to the teeth on that
one.

Would it help to let it dry out a few weeks? I am in no hurry; just want to
get it done more or less right.

I just got the new Highland Hardware catalog, and they mention a blade
designed for green wood. I guess the set of the teeth are wider, and
prevent binding.

http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com...OD&ProdID=6944


--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.

"Toller" wrote in message
If you bothered to read my post, I said I was doing something wrong. I am
certainly not blaming it on the saw.
But thanks for your moronic advice.

I read you post. Moronic is a poor choice of words. Sarcastic is more
fitting. How about annoyingly sarcastic?

On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 08:57:18 -0700, Enoch Root wrote:


Not real tight, I am a little scared of too much metal-metal contact.
I have a set of cool block that I haven't installed. Would they be okay for
this? I intended to use them with a thinner blade.
Or should I just set the steel blocks tigher?

I have roller bearings on mine, and set them so there is very little
sideways play for the blade. A little more for the rear bearings (a
bill folded twice.)

Cool blocks will also work, but you shouldn't require them for a 1/2"
blade. You can bury the blade in the cool blocks I think (don't have
them myself) and let the blade make its own clearance.

er

yep.. I've been running the same set of cool blocks for a year or so, and rotate
them during blade changes... (translation: when the old blade doesn't cut
anymore)

I set them flush with the blade sides, loose enough to turn the upper wheel by
hand... they work really well for me...

Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm