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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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needed
I wish I could find a clamp part as illustrated on my website at:
www.edswoods.com/appendix.html The metal block would fit into a box jig for some enclosures I'm making with a Kraig pocket hole jig. The screw part should be about 1/2" X 8". The secret to using the pocket hole device seems to be in keeping everything clamped in place really tight. |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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needed
It does not look that hard to replicate. I made something simular for an
adjustable finger jig for my table saw. I used part of a C-Clamp I dismatelled (the shaft) and my brother inlaw drilled and tapped a piece of alluminum. its athought I spent maybe 10 bucks.. Beer included for work... Al " wrote in message ups.com... I wish I could find a clamp part as illustrated on my website at: www.edswoods.com/appendix.html The metal block would fit into a box jig for some enclosures I'm making with a Kraig pocket hole jig. The screw part should be about 1/2" X 8". The secret to using the pocket hole device seems to be in keeping everything clamped in place really tight. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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needed
It does not look that hard to replicate. I made something simular for
an adjustable finger jig for my table saw. I used part of a C-Clamp I dismatelled (the shaft) and my brother inlaw drilled and tapped a piece of alluminum. its athought I spent maybe 10 bucks.. Beer included for work... Right, guess I'll stop looking for "clamp world" and make it from scratch. The guy who would help me doesn't drink, smoke or chew betel leaves but he likes wood scraps. |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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needed
Dont know if these might suit your needs but LeeValley has some things that
might be adaptable check out the links: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...,31138&p=31138 http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...47&cat=1,41637 http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...30&cat=1,41637 http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...,43455&p=52800 Othere sites: http://www.fine-tools.com/spindel.htm http://www.adjustableclamp.com/sp-6700.htm RangerPaul -- Email replies to remove the "nospam_" before you reply. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dream-designs " wrote in message ups.com... I wish I could find a clamp part as illustrated on my website at: www.edswoods.com/appendix.html The metal block would fit into a box jig for some enclosures I'm making with a Kraig pocket hole jig. The screw part should be about 1/2" X 8". The secret to using the pocket hole device seems to be in keeping everything clamped in place really tight. |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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needed
lol niether do
Al " wrote in message ups.com... It does not look that hard to replicate. I made something simular for an adjustable finger jig for my table saw. I used part of a C-Clamp I dismatelled (the shaft) and my brother inlaw drilled and tapped a piece of alluminum. its athought I spent maybe 10 bucks.. Beer included for work... Right, guess I'll stop looking for "clamp world" and make it from scratch. The guy who would help me doesn't drink, smoke or chew betel leaves but he likes wood scraps. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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needed
(in
) said: | I wish I could find a clamp part as illustrated on my website at: | www.edswoods.com/appendix.html As shown in your drawing, you'd need a hole in your box jig at least as large as the diameter of the clamp handle. Given that, I think the attachment holes appear to be a tad too close to the threaded hole. | The metal block would fit into a box jig for some enclosures I'm | making with a Kraig pocket | hole jig. The screw part should be about 1/2" X 8". The secret to | using the pocket hole device seems to be in keeping everything | clamped in place really tight. "Really tight" isn't necessary - "properly aligned" _is_ necessary; because the pocket hole screw's threads _should_ all be in the part screwed "to" - this is controlled by setting the drill stop collar correctly and using screws with the proper thread length. Clamping the parts "firmly" is adequate. BTW, the name of the company is "Kreg" - and the founder's first name is "Craig". You can buy Acme threaded rod stock and Acme taps from people like Enco (www.use-enco.com). I'll warn that the taps are expensive. Regular screw threads probably won't hold up as well in prolonged use. Lee Valley sells a veneer press clamp that's similar; and you can see a set in use at www.iedu.com/DeSoto/PT_Sign.html - the veneer clamps are pressed into a 1" hole and the pad is removable. I have photos of a clamp design I made for drawers and boxes at www.iedu.com/DeSoto/drawer_clamp.html - depending on your project, this approach might be useful. Two of my favorite face frame clamps are the cast aluminum clamps from Woodstock International (Grizzly). I noted in the most recent McFeelys catalog that they're now offering linkage pins for these clamps that permit use with stock up to 1-3/4 inches think. Finally, and at the risk of being horribly obvious, I'd like to suggest a Google image search for "face frame clamp" (without the quotation marks) - it'll provide a visual presentation of most of the standard products and and a lot of clamping techniques. -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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needed
"Really tight" isn't necessary - "properly aligned" _is_ necessary;
because the pocket hole screw's threads _should_ all be in the part screwed "to" - this is controlled by setting the drill stop collar correctly and using screws with the proper thread length. Clamping the parts "firmly" is adequate. I checked all of this , but it seemed that the alignment results were still inconsistent. What I'm making is boxes about 12" X 18". I want the tops and bottoms to extend slightly beyond the sides. The only way I can do this is to put a shim under the part that is being drilled into first with very firm clamping (not "tight", exactly, as you say) and I'm getting pretty good results though not perfect. It seems to be the slight variance in the final amount of torque that makes the difference, because even the shallowest angle is still an angle and will tend to shift the pieces. You can buy Acme threaded rod stock This is good to know, but which elf presses the swivel pad onto the end of the rod? Maybe a machinist friend of mine has an acme tap. If they used the thread on 1930s cars anywhere he probably does. Then I could buy cheap clamps, cut away the body and make my own plates. |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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needed
This might be the wood's way of telling you that it'd prefer to be
doweled and glued. I'd dovetail them together if my customer was willing to pay for it. Maybe if the product really takes off and I can find or make a face dovetail jig and buy a shopfull of clamps I'll go that route. Or maybe there's some kind of mdf fastener that would work (the cabinets are melamine) The cold elf holds the rod while the hot elf pops on the pad. :-) up in the tree next to the one where they make the cookies, right?:-) |
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