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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
When I verify/set my TS blade to perpendicular vs. the table, I put a
right angle square on the table and align it with the blade. However, I always end up wondering whether I really lined it up with the plane of the blade or if blade teeth got in the way and I ended up with the blade a bit out of perpendicular. It seems that someone would make a simple disk that could be installed instead of a real blade to be used for such calibration purposes. Does anyone know of such an item? Thanks, Tex |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
I align my TS with the teeth and not the flat of the blade
Searcher |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
Tex wrote:
When I verify/set my TS blade to perpendicular vs. the table, I put a right angle square on the table and align it with the blade. However, I always end up wondering whether I really lined it up with the plane of the blade or if blade teeth got in the way and I ended up with the blade a bit out of perpendicular. It seems that someone would make a simple disk that could be installed instead of a real blade to be used for such calibration purposes. Does anyone know of such an item? Oldest trick in the book. Raise blade full amount, then place a piece of 6" vertical stock oagainst miter gage and make a test cut about an inch from the end using the left slot for the gage. Transfer miter gage to right hand slot, turn piece around, and make a cut thru the same slot you just cut. If the cut edges of the slot are parallel, the blade is vertical. If not, adjust blade as required and repeat test. I have about as much need for a saw blade gage as a boar hog with a set of breasts. Lew |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
"Tex" wrote in message
It seems that someone would make a simple disk that could be installed instead of a real blade to be used for such calibration purposes. Does anyone know of such an item? There are "reference plates", instead of blades, that are used by manufacturers to set up saws with the miter slots at the factory, but doing it in a shop for setting blade angle is a bit anal, and unnecessary, IMO. Simply use a smaller square, or Lew's method, which is fool proof and has the advantage of actually calibrating the tool _combination_ you'll be using. IOW, it is a good idea to setup any tool with the blade/bit you're going to be using, otherwise you could well be fooling yourself. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 12/13/05 |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
Go to Sears and purchase their 10" sanding disk. Remove the stick-on
sandpaper, clean off any residue with mineral spirits and use that to align blades. I've cleaned mine up by mounting it and bringing it up to speed and then with a fine grit paper stuck to a 2" wide x 2 ft long board, I polished both sides then applied a coat of wax and buffed. If you don't have sandpaper on the disc or have a rust inhibitor on it, the blade will rust in humid conditions. Since I have a rotary sander already, I don't use that disc for sanding - just for alignments. If you have a contractor type table saw that has two tie-bars - that disc works great in aligning those too. If you've never done that alignment - maybe you should check it. Bob S. "Tex" wrote in message ... When I verify/set my TS blade to perpendicular vs. the table, I put a right angle square on the table and align it with the blade. However, I always end up wondering whether I really lined it up with the plane of the blade or if blade teeth got in the way and I ended up with the blade a bit out of perpendicular. It seems that someone would make a simple disk that could be installed instead of a real blade to be used for such calibration purposes. Does anyone know of such an item? Thanks, Tex |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
"Tex" wrote in message ... When I verify/set my TS blade to perpendicular vs. the table, I put a right angle square on the table and align it with the blade. However, I always end up wondering whether I really lined it up with the plane of the blade or if blade teeth got in the way and I ended up with the blade a bit out of perpendicular. It seems that someone would make a simple disk that could be installed instead of a real blade to be used for such calibration purposes. Does anyone know of such an item? Thanks, Tex Ok, to check for the baled being perpendicular to the table SIMPLY make a test cut through a piece of scrap. Flop one piece over end for end and match the two cut edges back together. If you have a gap you are not cutting square to the table. If you have no gap you are set at 90 degrees. |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
"Leon" wrote in message news:nAg1g.72452 Ok, to check for the baled ????? baled ????? BALDE. ;~) |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
Leon wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message news:nAg1g.72452 Ok, to check for the baled ????? baled ????? BALDE. ;~) Uh, Leon? Don't look now but... g |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
Unquestionably Confused wrote:
Leon wrote: "Leon" wrote in message news:nAg1g.72452 Ok, to check for the baled ????? baled ????? BALDE. ;~) Uh, Leon? Don't look now but... g You should blead insanity. Crazy 'bout that new saw. er -- email not valid |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
"Enoch Root" wrote in message ... Uh, Leon? Don't look now but... g You should blead insanity. Crazy 'bout that new saw. LOL... |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
Leon wrote:
"Enoch Root" wrote in message ... Uh, Leon? Don't look now but... g You should blead insanity. Crazy 'bout that new saw. LOL... Hah, now you have a label. er -- email not valid |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
Lew Hodgett wrote:
Oldest trick in the book. Raise blade full amount, then place a piece of 6" vertical stock oagainst miter gage and make a test cut about an inch from the end using the left slot for the gage. I just flip the cutoff and butt the two cut edges together. Any error is doubled. Barry |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
"Tex" wrote in message m... Thanks, everybody. After looking at the price from Rockler, I think I'll rethink my need for such an item and follow a path some of the other responders have. Tex Good decision. You do not need a tool to tell you what your eyes can see. |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
On Tue, 18 Apr 2006 21:35:47 GMT, Tex wrote:
When I verify/set my TS blade to perpendicular vs. the table, I put a right angle square on the table and align it with the blade. However, I always end up wondering whether I really lined it up with the plane of the blade or if blade teeth got in the way and I ended up with the blade a bit out of perpendicular. It seems that someone would make a simple disk that could be installed instead of a real blade to be used for such calibration purposes. Does anyone know of such an item? Thanks, Tex Manufacturers do use such plates, both disks and long plates along with special squares to set and check 90 and 45 degree blade alignment to the slot, arbor runnout, and perpendicularity to the table. I have a set, however, I've never seen them available for sale. We made our own and they had to be numbered and calibrated every so often consistent with a gage calibration procedure in a quality manual for ISO 9000. However, a good square set on the blade body in between teeth on a quality saw blade should certainly get you as close as you need to be. If it is a quality blade any radial runout difference between the body and the plane of the teeth will be miniscule. Frank |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
Frank Boettcher wrote:
Manufacturers do use such plates, both disks and long plates along with special squares to set and check 90 and 45 degree blade alignment to the slot, arbor runnout, and perpendicularity to the table. I have a set, however, I've never seen them available for sale. I don't think they're all that useful for the average user, compared to all of the previously mentioned methods, but: http://www.forrestsawbladesonline.com/category_40_MasterPlate.html I've also seen blank Forrest and other brand saw blades. FWW has shown the Forrest blank in saw review articles. |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
On Tue, 18 Apr 2006 21:35:47 GMT, Tex wrote:
It seems that someone would make a simple disk that could be installed instead of a real blade to be used for such calibration purposes. Does anyone know of such an item? I don't know who would make such a thing, but in the latest issue of Fine Woodworking, when they're testing cabinet saws, they specifically show that they are using one to test calibration. (June 2006, page 48, upper picture) |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
Freud certainly makes one:
http://www.freudtools.com/woodworker...ssories_1.html Brian Henderson wrote: On Tue, 18 Apr 2006 21:35:47 GMT, Tex wrote: It seems that someone would make a simple disk that could be installed instead of a real blade to be used for such calibration purposes. Does anyone know of such an item? |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
charlie b wrote:
No one mentioned the TS-Aligner Jr? http://www.ts-aligner.com/ For most of those tasks I just use a regular dial indicator with magnetic base. For things involving the table saw slots, the mag base sticks just fine to the mitre gauge. Chris |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
No one mentioned the TS-Aligner Jr?
http://www.ts-aligner.com/ If you want to align the blade to the miter slot If you want to align the fence to the miter slot If you want to align the fence to the miter slot If you want to check that the blade is square (or any other angle) to the table If you want to check runout on your saw arbor If you want to check knives setting in joiner/jointer If you want to check infeed and outfeed tables on joiner to cutter head If you want to check drill bit to table for sqaure If you want to check run out on your drill press and or bit : : : This tool will do the job - accurately. Better to know than to assume. charlie b |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
Chris Friesen wrote:
For most of those tasks I just use a regular dial indicator with magnetic base. Same here. |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
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TS Question
"RM MS" wrote in message ... Yeah, it's the damn blade you just hung on it. Just crank it up all the way and use any cnveniently-sized square to chack it (you have those?) Don't touch the teeth, OK? Man, why do you think everthing has to be perfect? I do perfect work for a living and believe me, it ain't the table saw where I look for it. I will give you the benefit of knowing why your method of squaring a blade 90 degrees to the table will not always work rather than your answer of Horse ****. Not all blades have parallel sides. Many are hollow ground. |
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