I am installing balustrade for the second floor that my wife had
designed. The balustrade is L shaped and made up of wrought iron
newels. It is 6' long and 3' wide. I already cut the pieces and put
them in place to size it up ( I didn't glue anything yet ). See
pictures below:

http://bismarck.sdf1.org/balustrade_1.jpg
http://bismarck.sdf1.org/balustrade_2.jpg

At this point I realized that my balustrade doesn't include the
starting or ending posts and I am afraid that system will end up shaky.
My wife likes the lighter look of the balustrade the way it is.

Do you think the balustrade will hold up after applying the epoxy?
Should I replace one last newel with the starting post? Should I have
posts on both sides?

Thank you!!

"oleg" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am installing balustrade for the second floor that my wife had
designed. The balustrade is L shaped and made up of wrought iron
newels. It is 6' long and 3' wide. I already cut the pieces and put
them in place to size it up ( I didn't glue anything yet ). See
pictures below:

http://bismarck.sdf1.org/balustrade_1.jpg
http://bismarck.sdf1.org/balustrade_2.jpg

At this point I realized that my balustrade doesn't include the
starting or ending posts and I am afraid that system will end up shaky.
My wife likes the lighter look of the balustrade the way it is.

Do you think the balustrade will hold up after applying the epoxy?
Should I replace one last newel with the starting post? Should I have
posts on both sides?

Thank you!!

Oleg

I would anchor down a newel post on top and tie the railing into the wall at
the back. Too much leverage for the setup you currently have.

Tom Plamann

If you like the "light" look and don't want to add a newel post (will
one fit around that floor vent?) why not have your metal worker
fabricate an arch? It would replace the last baluster and tie up over
and into the wall opposite? Might make an attractive feature to the
overall look. Make sure you allow more than enough room for any
furniture that has to come and go up the stairs.

Be sure to post more pix for us to admire when all is done ;-}

oleg wrote:
I am installing balustrade for the second floor that my wife had
designed. The balustrade is L shaped and made up of wrought iron
newels. It is 6' long and 3' wide. I already cut the pieces and put
them in place to size it up ( I didn't glue anything yet ). See
pictures below:

http://bismarck.sdf1.org/balustrade_1.jpg
http://bismarck.sdf1.org/balustrade_2.jpg

At this point I realized that my balustrade doesn't include the
starting or ending posts and I am afraid that system will end up shaky.
My wife likes the lighter look of the balustrade the way it is.

Do you think the balustrade will hold up after applying the epoxy?
Should I replace one last newel with the starting post? Should I have
posts on both sides?

Thank you!!

The consensus I received pointed that balustrade would not hold and
after modifying the design and putting it all together, I realize that
it could not be any truer!! The newels themselves are solid iron and
very strong, but they are thin and sub flooring just doesn't have
enough leverage to hold it. The fact that the sub flooring is a few
times older then I am doesn't help

http://bismarck.sdf1.org/balustrade_3.jpg

http://bismarck.sdf1.org/balustrade_4.jpg


In the end I made three changes:
1) I took end newel and placed it in the corner and screwed it to my
floor "extension". See picture 4.

2) Installed end post and reinforced from beneath with the solid block
of wood attached to the joists ( using register )

3) Attached the end of the rail to the wall.

Construction is solid

Thank you guys!
Oleg

Also,

What is the best way to finish the handrail? I want to maintain
natural red oak color.