I did a Google search and found nothing relevant.

I am in the planning stage for a project that will require gluing up large
plywood pieces into dadod and doweled joints. Because of the size of the units
involved, I need to find a glue with a long open time, perhaps, 30 to 45
minutes for each assembly.

Any suggestions as to the type of glue I should be looking at? I usually use
Titebond (II), which I push to 10 minutes on occasion, but don't think I can
keep it open long enough for this project.

____________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA

How about using a 2-part epoxy like System 3? I'm using it on the new
windows I'm making and it works well. Over 1 hr of working time before
setting and 24 hr cure time.

Joe T

In article ,
says...
I did a Google search and found nothing relevant.

I am in the planning stage for a project that will require gluing up large
plywood pieces into dadod and doweled joints. Because of the size of the units
involved, I need to find a glue with a long open time, perhaps, 30 to 45
minutes for each assembly.

Any suggestions as to the type of glue I should be looking at? I usually use
Titebond (II), which I push to 10 minutes on occasion, but don't think I can
keep it open long enough for this project.

____________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA




You could use Aerolite 300 or 308 in 'separate' application. Mix the powder
with water to achieve resin, put on single joint surface[s] (indefinite open
time).
Brush hardener/catalyst on other surface (this is formic acid i.i.r.c.) and
assemble. You'll have an assembly time of around 15-20 minutes after contact if
ambient temp. isn't too hot. Might be longer, I haven't read the data sheet in
15 years or so.
Last time I used it like this is when I had to glue up a dining table top from
3/4" stips because the timber I had bought twisted so much I had to break it
down ... then glued up 12 strips at a time into slabs which I re-jointed and
made into the table top. I think it will've taken me 1/2 hour per slab or
thereabouts to assemble and clamp. The problem is not to have the hardener dry
out too much so it can still trigger the resin off.

-P.

--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com

"Bill Waller" wrote in message
...
I did a Google search and found nothing relevant.

I am in the planning stage for a project that will require gluing up large
plywood pieces into dadod and doweled joints. Because of the size of the
units
involved, I need to find a glue with a long open time, perhaps, 30 to 45
minutes for each assembly.

Any suggestions as to the type of glue I should be looking at? I usually
use
Titebond (II), which I push to 10 minutes on occasion, but don't think I
can
keep it open long enough for this project.

I use Titebond (II) expended. It says 15 minutes, but I expect it is rather
longer than that.
I haven't tried this, but I bet if you added a small amount of water, it
will also add some time without degrading it significantly.

If you watch 15 minutes go by on a clock, it is an awfully long time to be
doing an assemble. I once was afraid I couldn't do it because the assembly
was so complicated, and it wound up taking all of 5 minutes.

"Bill Waller" wrote in message
...
I did a Google search and found nothing relevant.

I am in the planning stage for a project that will require gluing up large
plywood pieces into dadod and doweled joints. Because of the size of the
units
involved, I need to find a glue with a long open time, perhaps, 30 to 45
minutes for each assembly.

Any suggestions as to the type of glue I should be looking at? I usually
use
Titebond (II), which I push to 10 minutes on occasion, but don't think I
can
keep it open long enough for this project.

____________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA



I've never used it but I've heard David Marks comment numerous times that
Plastic Resin glue allows for a long open time. He seems to use it fairly
often. I've not seen this stuff on the shelves of HD or Lowes but I believe
you can purchase it online fairly easily. I also believe (possibly
incorrectly) that Hide Glue will give you a long open time as well.
Cheers,
cc

some glues with long open times:
recorcinol
urea formaldehide
epoxy
polyurethane
hide
latex caulking

they have pretty different properties. you'll have to determine which
one is right for your application.

Garrett Wade (dot com) has a wood glue with 30 minute open time, it's got
"extra strength", too. I couldn't find it anywhere else, it is '202GF' as opposed
to '2002GF' which is found at Lee Valley. Never tried it tho...

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 08:07:13 -0500, Bill Waller wrote:
I did a Google search and found nothing relevant.

I am in the planning stage for a project that will require gluing up large
plywood pieces into dadod and doweled joints. Because of the size of the units
involved, I need to find a glue with a long open time, perhaps, 30 to 45
minutes for each assembly.

Any suggestions as to the type of glue I should be looking at? I usually use
Titebond (II), which I push to 10 minutes on occasion, but don't think I can
keep it open long enough for this project.

Unibond 800. Its a two-part urea-formaldehyde glue. All time parameters (pot
time, open time, and clamp time) are somewhat a function of the mix ratio, and
of temperature. I've had very good luck using it for complex glue-ups. It
cleans up with warm soapy water until it cures. Full cure takes 12 hours or
more, again somewhat a function of mix ratio and temperature.

The powdered catalyst is available in three color grades, light, medium, and
dark. Light seems a good match for hard maple, medium for red maple and red
oak, dark for cherry. I have not tried matching any other wood species. I
suspect you can mix different color catalyst to get an "in-between" color, but
I have not tried that.

Be aware of a few things. This stuff is not good for your lungs. Mix and apply
in an area with good ventilation, and wear a respirator mask with organics
filters. You may notice some eye irritation with long exposure. If that
happens, take a break away from the work area for a few minutes. Wear gloves
(nitrile seems OK).

I obtained mine on the web, from VacuPress. Check the web page:

http://www.vacupress.com/veneerglue.htm

[I have no connection whatsoever with VacuPress, other than as a satisfied
customer.]

--
Art

"AAvK" wrote in message
news:NhBTf.1326$123.207@fed1read09...

Garrett Wade (dot com) has a wood glue with 30 minute open time, it's got
"extra strength", too. I couldn't find it anywhere else, it is '202GF' as
opposed to '2002GF' which is found at Lee Valley. Never tried it tho...

Their regular glue is excellent. I expect the extended is also, though I
haven't tried it.

My local Ace Hardware carries DAP plastic resin glue.

"Art Greenberg" wrote in message
link.net...
On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 08:07:13 -0500, Bill Waller wrote:
I did a Google search and found nothing relevant.

I am in the planning stage for a project that will require gluing up
large
plywood pieces into dadod and doweled joints. Because of the size of the
units
involved, I need to find a glue with a long open time, perhaps, 30 to 45
minutes for each assembly.

Any suggestions as to the type of glue I should be looking at? I usually
use
Titebond (II), which I push to 10 minutes on occasion, but don't think I
can
keep it open long enough for this project.

Unibond 800. Its a two-part urea-formaldehyde glue. All time parameters
(pot
time, open time, and clamp time) are somewhat a function of the mix ratio,
and
of temperature. I've had very good luck using it for complex glue-ups. It
cleans up with warm soapy water until it cures. Full cure takes 12 hours
or
more, again somewhat a function of mix ratio and temperature.

The powdered catalyst is available in three color grades, light, medium,
and
dark. Light seems a good match for hard maple, medium for red maple and
red
oak, dark for cherry. I have not tried matching any other wood species. I
suspect you can mix different color catalyst to get an "in-between" color,
but
I have not tried that.

Be aware of a few things. This stuff is not good for your lungs. Mix and
apply
in an area with good ventilation, and wear a respirator mask with organics
filters. You may notice some eye irritation with long exposure. If that
happens, take a break away from the work area for a few minutes. Wear
gloves
(nitrile seems OK).

I obtained mine on the web, from VacuPress. Check the web page:

http://www.vacupress.com/veneerglue.htm

[I have no connection whatsoever with VacuPress, other than as a satisfied
customer.]

--
Art



DAP Weldwood Plastic Resin urea-formaldehyde glue. This is the best stuff
for long complicated glue ups.
One more note, the squeeze out can be very hard and sharp, sand (with mask)
before running it through your machines or using a hand plane.

Dave

Bill Waller wrote:


snip
Because of the size of the units
involved, I need to find a glue with a long open time, perhaps, 30 to 45
minutes for each assembly.

Any suggestions as to the type of glue I should be looking at?

For anything other than white oak, epoxy.

For white oak, resorcinol.

Lew

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 13:21:14 -0800, Teamcasa wrote:
DAP Weldwood Plastic Resin urea-formaldehyde glue. This is the best stuff
for long complicated glue ups. One more note, the squeeze out can be very
hard and sharp, sand (with mask) before running it through your machines or
using a hand plane.


Yes, that is the same as (or very similar to) the Unibond product.

I've also seen a "precatylized" plastic resin glue. This is a powder that you
mix with water. I don't know much about it. It seems that having the catalyst
pre-mixed is a convenience, but the probable trade-off being that you don't
get to adjust the cure times by adjusting the mix ratio. Its available on the
JoeWoodworker.com / VeneerSupplies.com website.

--
Art

Peter recalled the following:

Brush hardener/catalyst on other surface (this is formic acid i.i.r.c.)

Isn't formic acid what the Fire Ants inject into your skin that causes
the burning/itching? Wouldn't want to get that on anything.

I just bought TiteBond Extended Open Time glue. The description on the
bottle says its similar to TiteBond II, only it's white instead of yellow.

In article , says...
Peter recalled the following:

Brush hardener/catalyst on other surface (this is formic acid i.i.r.c.)

Isn't formic acid what the Fire Ants inject into your skin that causes
the burning/itching? Wouldn't want to get that on anything.

Sure wouldn't want to get it into your eyes. But basically not that different
from Vinegar. I spilled 90% vinegar over my leg once, the skin was starting to
blister by the time I had ripped the jeans off and got the leg under the cold
tap.
I very much doubt the 'GBP hardener' would be concentrated acid in any event.
I had it on my skin briefly without adverse effects.

-P.

--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com