We're remodeling, and I'm putting on trim.
I have a door that is very close to a wall, so one of the trim pieces
I'm using necessarily needs to span jamb to perpendicular wall.
Unfortunately, the distance from the jamb to the wall is 3.5" at the
top and 2.5" at the bottom. The standard width of this trim is 3.5"
around the entire house.
So how do I rip a taper that long (about 85" long).
Do I build a large adjustable jig? I bought a taper jig, but it won't
hold pieces that long


Jerry

Jerome Ranch wrote:
We're remodeling, and I'm putting on trim.
I have a door that is very close to a wall, so one of the trim pieces
I'm using necessarily needs to span jamb to perpendicular wall.
Unfortunately, the distance from the jamb to the wall is 3.5" at the
top and 2.5" at the bottom. The standard width of this trim is 3.5"
around the entire house.
So how do I rip a taper that long (about 85" long).
Do I build a large adjustable jig? I bought a taper jig, but it won't
hold pieces that long

Just toggle or otherwise clamp it to an 8' piece of ply a few inches
wide so it overhangs the ply as you wish.


--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"Jerome Ranch" wrote in message
So how do I rip a taper that long (about 85" long).
Do I build a large adjustable jig? I bought a taper jig, but it won't
hold pieces that long

Do you have anything that long like a metal rod or piece of wood that's
straight and fairly firm in structure? You could align it with your tablesaw
and shim it so that you get a taper.

In article ,
Jerome Ranch wrote:
We're remodeling, and I'm putting on trim.
I have a door that is very close to a wall, so one of the trim pieces
I'm using necessarily needs to span jamb to perpendicular wall.
Unfortunately, the distance from the jamb to the wall is 3.5" at the
top and 2.5" at the bottom. The standard width of this trim is 3.5"
around the entire house.
So how do I rip a taper that long (about 85" long).
Do I build a large adjustable jig? I bought a taper jig, but it won't
hold pieces that long


Jerry

What I would do, is use an 8ft long 3/4" piece of plywood about 6"
wide, and tack or double stick tape the trim piece to it such that the
cut line of the trim piece lined up with one of the plywood strip
edges. Then put the other side of the plywood against the fence of the
TS, adjustes so thatame width of the plywood. Send the whole thing
through the saw & your're done. BTW you can find this technique and
many others in most good table saw books. I like Kelly Mehler's book.

--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

Jerome Ranch wrote:
We're remodeling, and I'm putting on trim.
I have a door that is very close to a wall, so one of the trim pieces
I'm using necessarily needs to span jamb to perpendicular wall.
Unfortunately, the distance from the jamb to the wall is 3.5" at the
top and 2.5" at the bottom. The standard width of this trim is 3.5"
around the entire house.
So how do I rip a taper that long (about 85" long).
Do I build a large adjustable jig? I bought a taper jig, but it won't
hold pieces that long


Jerry

first check that the wall it butts up against is straight. few are. if
the wall isn't good and straight, you'll do better to scribe the
molding to the wall with a jigsaw or block plane.

I LIKE IT
thanks Jerry



What I would do, is use an 8ft long 3/4" piece of plywood about 6"
wide, and tack or double stick tape the trim piece to it such that the
cut line of the trim piece lined up with one of the plywood strip
edges. Then put the other side of the plywood against the fence of the
TS, adjustes so thatame width of the plywood. Send the whole thing
through the saw & your're done. BTW you can find this technique and
many others in most good table saw books. I like Kelly Mehler's book.

On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 22:13:53 GMT, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Just toggle or otherwise clamp it to an 8' piece of ply a few inches
wide so it overhangs the ply as you wish.

Hotglue works for me.

On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 22:10:08 GMT, Jerome Ranch
wrote:

We're remodeling, and I'm putting on trim.
I have a door that is very close to a wall, so one of the trim pieces
I'm using necessarily needs to span jamb to perpendicular wall.
Unfortunately, the distance from the jamb to the wall is 3.5" at the
top and 2.5" at the bottom. The standard width of this trim is 3.5"
around the entire house.
So how do I rip a taper that long (about 85" long).
Do I build a large adjustable jig? I bought a taper jig, but it won't
hold pieces that long


Jerry

Much of my work is in Old homes and I run into this often. Typically,
I mark it and use Planes.

In fact it IS the wall that is out of square
the door and jamb are perfect according to my level.


first check that the wall it butts up against is straight. few are. if
the wall isn't good and straight, you'll do better to scribe the
molding to the wall with a jigsaw or block plane.

This was a great idea to all that suggested it..didn't have an DS tape
and didn't want to run our for it.
Tried it this AM..due for a winter storm here in Iowa this PM, so I
wanted to get this done ASAP

Used a 8" width and 8' long plywood I had, countersunk some drill
holes in the back side and mounted my oak through the back with some
small screws

Ran it through..famous results..fits perfect, wife loves me..thanks

Jerry


On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 16:39:17 -0600, ()
wrote:



What I would do, is use an 8ft long 3/4" piece of plywood about 6"
wide, and tack or double stick tape the trim piece to it such that the
cut line of the trim piece lined up with one of the plywood strip
edges. Then put the other side of the plywood against the fence of the
TS, adjustes so thatame width of the plywood. Send the whole thing
through the saw & your're done. BTW you can find this technique and
many others in most good table saw books. I like Kelly Mehler's book.

Jerome Ranch wrote:
This was a great idea to all that suggested it..didn't have an DS tape
and didn't want to run our for it.
Tried it this AM..due for a winter storm here in Iowa this PM, so I
wanted to get this done ASAP

Used a 8" width and 8' long plywood I had, countersunk some drill
holes in the back side and mounted my oak through the back with some
small screws

Ran it through..famous results..fits perfect, wife loves me..thanks

Be sure to tell stryped

--

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

The easy way is to first bevel the edge, then mark it. That way you
need only plane a small amount, not the full board thickness.

dadiOH
_____________

Jerome Ranch wrote:
I don't have the high quality planes to do this.

The trim is 3/.4" thick - and I'd have to plane up to an inch..or
would you rough cut with a hand saw first?

Jerry


On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 06:19:25 -0500, Joe wrote:

On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 22:10:08 GMT, Jerome Ranch
wrote:

We're remodeling, and I'm putting on trim.
I have a door that is very close to a wall, so one of the trim
pieces I'm using necessarily needs to span jamb to perpendicular
wall. Unfortunately, the distance from the jamb to the wall is 3.5"
at the top and 2.5" at the bottom. The standard width of this trim
is 3.5" around the entire house.
So how do I rip a taper that long (about 85" long).
Do I build a large adjustable jig? I bought a taper jig, but it
won't hold pieces that long


Jerry

Much of my work is in Old homes and I run into this often. Typically,
I mark it and use Planes.

not out of plumb- out of line. if the wall is wavy and you cut a nice
straight cut on your trim it'll look like ****. the cut needs to follow
the wall.