I had posted recently about making a jig to joint with a table saw and
ensure straight cuts. Well, no one in my local area has a toggle clamp.
Would my idea with the angle iron and welding nuts to it work? (Welding
small nuts to the top then using bolts through these nuts to hold the
board down?) (I will be workign mostly with 12 inch and under wood
right now.)

What about this?

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2005/01/28/wb/

I built this fence for my router table and jointing with it produced
good results.

http://store.woodstore.net/rofe.html

stryped wrote:
I had posted recently about making a jig to joint with a table saw and
ensure straight cuts. Well, no one in my local area has a toggle clamp.

You have something against mail order?

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
stryped wrote:
I had posted recently about making a jig to joint with a table saw
and ensure straight cuts. Well, no one in my local area has a
toggle clamp.

You have something against mail order?

Lew

Or even a couple of screws while he waits?

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On 17 Mar 2006 10:52:17 -0800, "stryped"
wrote:

I had posted recently about making a jig to joint with a table saw and
ensure straight cuts. Well, no one in my local area has a toggle clamp.
Would my idea with the angle iron and welding nuts to it work? (Welding
small nuts to the top then using bolts through these nuts to hold the
board down?) (I will be workign mostly with 12 inch and under wood
right now.)

http://froogle.google.com/froogle?hl...mp&sa=N&tab=wf

stryped wrote:
I had posted recently about making a jig to joint with a table saw and
ensure straight cuts. Well, no one in my local area has a toggle clamp.
Would my idea with the angle iron and welding nuts to it work? (Welding
small nuts to the top then using bolts through these nuts to hold the
board down?) (I will be workign mostly with 12 inch and under wood
right now.)

Stryped,
I'm not sure that your going to get the answer your looking for since
the advice you were given in your initial post was good advice. One
thing you didn't make clear was if your table saw has no fence or if the
fence it does have is not perfectly straight. If the latter, is the
problem that it doesn't lock down good? Let me reemphasize that if you
have the straightest fence in the world, if your saw blade isn't
1)sharp, 2)can't be made perfectly parallel to the fence or visa-versa,
or 3) can't be aligned truly perpendicular to the table, your not going
to be able to produce a surface on the saw that is suitable for joining
to another surface. You'll end up with a weak, poorly aligned joint at
best.

Even, if you have a piece of angle iron or aluminum or whatever, how are
you going to ensure that the edge is perfectly straight? Another bit of
missing information is what width and thickness of boards are you
planning on jointing? Jointing refers to mating two board surfaces
along the edge grain as opposed to butting or mating the end surfaces
together. Do you own a router and a straight bit? Too much missing
information.

Martie

the welds will distort the angle. if you must use angle, get some that
is thick enough to tap your threads directly into.

the only thing that iron lends to the jig is a level of stiffness that
is difficult to achieve without a large amount of wood. you certainly
don't need that much stiffness for this straightening/tapering jig, and
the weight and certain disaster should the iron contact the teeth of
your blade are enough to rule it out in my shop.

for kicks, try to do this entirely out of wood- no nails or screws
even, just glue. make the toggle. be inventive. this is the kind of jig
that you should be making as the need for it comes up, out of scraps
that you have on hand. you get extra points if it works the way you
were imagining it the first time you make it, and you get points off if
you spend any money making it.


think about it: the basis of this jig is a straight reference edge a
bit longer than the board you want to work on, wide enough to support
the workpiece and stay straight while feeding it through the saw, thick
enough to take the forces of clamping your workpiece to it......

Amen, brother.

wrote:
the welds will distort the angle. if you must use angle, get some that
is thick enough to tap your threads directly into.

the only thing that iron lends to the jig is a level of stiffness that
is difficult to achieve without a large amount of wood. you certainly
don't need that much stiffness for this straightening/tapering jig, and
the weight and certain disaster should the iron contact the teeth of
your blade are enough to rule it out in my shop.

for kicks, try to do this entirely out of wood- no nails or screws
even, just glue. make the toggle. be inventive. this is the kind of jig
that you should be making as the need for it comes up, out of scraps
that you have on hand. you get extra points if it works the way you
were imagining it the first time you make it, and you get points off if
you spend any money making it.


think about it: the basis of this jig is a straight reference edge a
bit longer than the board you want to work on, wide enough to support
the workpiece and stay straight while feeding it through the saw, thick
enough to take the forces of clamping your workpiece to it......

stryped wrote:
I had posted recently about making a jig to joint with a table saw and
ensure straight cuts. Well, no one in my local area has a toggle
clamp. Would my idea with the angle iron and welding nuts to it work?
(Welding small nuts to the top then using bolts through these nuts to
hold the board down?) (I will be workign mostly with 12 inch and
under wood right now.)

You can easily make a clamp for your purpose. On your carrier board
(the one which has a straight edge and upon which you are going to place
the board to be straightened)...

1. Fasten a 1x2 crosswise at the front end. This is a "stop block".

2. Drill a 1/4" hole 3-4" from the straight edge and at a distance from
the front about 6" farther than the boards to be straightened.
Countersink that hole on the underside and run a 1/4" flathead machine
screw up through the hole.

3. Now get a piece of wood about 12" long and 2-3" wide. Cut a 1/4"
through slot in it lengthwise in the middle stopping about 2" from the
end. This is a "clamp".

4. Lay the board to be straightened on the carrier board butting the
front end against the stop block and the board to be straightened as you
want it. Put the slot in the clamp over the machine screw from #2.
Move the clamp so the front edge is maybe 1" on top of the board to be
straightened. Put a fender washer and a wing nut on the machine screw.
Tighten the wing nut so the clamp holds down the board to be
straightened.

You can modify both the stop block and clamp by using thicker stock and
cutting the part that will be touching the board to be straightened at a
45 degree angle. That way, they will restrict movement both lengthwise
and vertically; no need to position the clamp over the board to be
straightened.


--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico