My question is about the strength of the connections made with a pocket hole
kit like the Kreg.

I'm was thinking of using my rail and stile router bits to build a
lightweight cabinet (approximately 6'h x 3'w x 2'd) using glued up 3/4" oak
rail and stile construction with inserted 1/4" paneling.

Would the project be sufficiently strong to stand under it's own weight if I
just used a 1/4" slot cutter for the paneling and joined everything instead
with pocket joints?

I've seen many suggestions for using pocket joints when creating face
frames, but I don't remember seeing anyone talking about full cabinet
construction using pocket joints.

Thanks

I have used them I used to make fish tank stands and realy like the pocket
hole jig from Kregg. It is strong and with a little glue works great.. I
know where 3 of the stand are holding 50 gallon tanks still standing 3 years
later no wiggle or jiggle I think it all comes down to preference.

Al

As always opinions are just that take from what you here and make an
informed desicion.

"Upscale" wrote in message
...
My question is about the strength of the connections made with a pocket
hole
kit like the Kreg.

I'm was thinking of using my rail and stile router bits to build a
lightweight cabinet (approximately 6'h x 3'w x 2'd) using glued up 3/4"
oak
rail and stile construction with inserted 1/4" paneling.

Would the project be sufficiently strong to stand under it's own weight if
I
just used a 1/4" slot cutter for the paneling and joined everything
instead
with pocket joints?

I've seen many suggestions for using pocket joints when creating face
frames, but I don't remember seeing anyone talking about full cabinet
construction using pocket joints.

Thanks

In article ,
"Upscale" wrote:

My question is about the strength of the connections made with a pocket hole
kit like the Kreg.

I'm was thinking of using my rail and stile router bits to build a
lightweight cabinet (approximately 6'h x 3'w x 2'd) using glued up 3/4" oak
rail and stile construction with inserted 1/4" paneling.

Would the project be sufficiently strong to stand under it's own weight if I
just used a 1/4" slot cutter for the paneling and joined everything instead
with pocket joints?

I would think so. Making all the usual assumptions, like proper root depth,
length of screw and plenty of proper adhesive. Using oak already gives you an
advantage in creating a strong joint.

I've seen many suggestions for using pocket joints when creating face
frames, but I don't remember seeing anyone talking about full cabinet
construction using pocket joints.

Thanks

"Upscale" wrote in message
...
My question is about the strength of the connections made with a pocket
hole
kit like the Kreg.

I'm was thinking of using my rail and stile router bits to build a
lightweight cabinet (approximately 6'h x 3'w x 2'd) using glued up 3/4"
oak
rail and stile construction with inserted 1/4" paneling.

Would the project be sufficiently strong to stand under it's own weight if
I
just used a 1/4" slot cutter for the paneling and joined everything
instead
with pocket joints?

I've seen many suggestions for using pocket joints when creating face
frames, but I don't remember seeing anyone talking about full cabinet
construction using pocket joints.


You will use glue? Problem with fastener joints is that the fasteners work
loose. Remember the recent discussion about whether a tenon should rest on
the lowest portion of the mortise? As long as your fasteners maintain the
end grain firmly against the face, just as the glued or pinned tenon does,
you're all right. Bend the fastener, and Katie bar the door. Load to the
end grain, of course, lest the fastener pull out from deflection.

I just use a few pocket hole screws to hold things together until the glue
dries....

"Upscale" wrote in message
...
My question is about the strength of the connections made with a pocket
hole
kit like the Kreg.

I'm was thinking of using my rail and stile router bits to build a
lightweight cabinet (approximately 6'h x 3'w x 2'd) using glued up 3/4"
oak
rail and stile construction with inserted 1/4" paneling.

Would the project be sufficiently strong to stand under it's own weight if
I
just used a 1/4" slot cutter for the paneling and joined everything
instead
with pocket joints?

I've seen many suggestions for using pocket joints when creating face
frames, but I don't remember seeing anyone talking about full cabinet
construction using pocket joints.

Thanks

Essentially the joint is not a "Pocket Joint" You make what ever traditional
joint you want and use "pocket hole screws" to reinforce it. Typically
however pocket hole screws are used to strengthen Butt Joints. I would
advise that you use glue in addition to the screws to strengthen the joint.
With that said, the pocket hole screw can add tremendous strength to a
joint. As far as your question about the cabinet, as long as the screw
threads end up in solid wood, and the harder the better, the joint should be
quite strong. Naturally the wider the material the better as this allows
the use of more screws in a given joint.
The screw and glue reinforced joints would most likely be strong enough for
the rail and stile joints of the panels given the width of the rails and
stiles are wide enough to be strong. You may give more consideration as to
what kind of joints to use when attaching the sides to the tops and bottoms
and front of the cabinet.

I have built "MANY" cabinet boxes using butt joints, glue, and
my Kreg jig. This a dead simple method and unless the glue fails,
the cabinets will work just fine for many years.

This same method is used in "many" commercial cabinet designs.


Upscale wrote:

My question is about the strength of the connections made with a pocket hole
kit like the Kreg.