Took my maple dresser I am building to the finishing room tonight (ok, its
the same room as the table saw and everything else, I just wanted to sound
cool) and started applying my finish of choice. Dark brown stain and ...
Just kidding.

I am applying wipe on poly. The dresser has 1/2" maple ply on the sides and
back. My question is do you (should you) apply the poly to the back side of
the ply? Ply should be pretty stable to moisture right? I did it anyway,
but is it really necessary??

Thanks

--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/index.htm
(Featuring a NEW look)

Just think how proud you will feel when some fella looks back there and allows as how that was a mighty particular wood butcher that finished the backside too.

BTB, ply will warp too so a finish is a fine idea.

--
PDQ

--
"stoutman" .@. wrote in message m...
| Took my maple dresser I am building to the finishing room tonight (ok, its
| the same room as the table saw and everything else, I just wanted to sound
| cool) and started applying my finish of choice. Dark brown stain and ....
| Just kidding.
|
| I am applying wipe on poly. The dresser has 1/2" maple ply on the sides and
| back. My question is do you (should you) apply the poly to the back side of
| the ply? Ply should be pretty stable to moisture right? I did it anyway,
| but is it really necessary??
|
| Thanks
|
| --
| Stoutman
| http://www.garagewoodworks.com/index.htm
| (Featuring a NEW look)
|
|

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
m...
Took my maple dresser I am building to the finishing room tonight (ok, its
the same room as the table saw and everything else, I just wanted to sound
cool) and started applying my finish of choice. Dark brown stain and ...
Just kidding.

I am applying wipe on poly. The dresser has 1/2" maple ply on the sides
and back. My question is do you (should you) apply the poly to the back
side of the ply? Ply should be pretty stable to moisture right? I did it
anyway, but is it really necessary??

Thanks

--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/index.htm
(Featuring a NEW look)


To me, finishing both sides is cheap insurance.

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
m...
Took my maple dresser I am building to the finishing room tonight (ok, its
the same room as the table saw and everything else, I just wanted to sound
cool) and started applying my finish of choice. Dark brown stain and ...
Just kidding.

I am applying wipe on poly. The dresser has 1/2" maple ply on the sides
and back. My question is do you (should you) apply the poly to the back
side of the ply? Ply should be pretty stable to moisture right? I did it
anyway, but is it really necessary??


Need to give it some resistance to moisture change. Need not be poly.
Simple shellac would help, stinks less in confined spaces, and does a good
job.

"stoutman"wrote in message

My question is do you (should you) apply the poly to the back side of
the ply?

Yes.

Even though it is plywood you definitely want to keep the same moisture
absorption/depletion rate, from RH changes, the same on all sides/surfaces.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

stoutman wrote:
Ply should be pretty stable to moisture right? I did it anyway,
but is it really necessary??

NONE of the antiques we own are finished on the back, nor is any of the
good factory furniture. The antiques even have sawmill marks on the
back, as well as the drawer backs and bottoms. The backs resemble rough
pallet wood.

Since it's a plywood back, and should be firmly attached, I don't think
the finish is necessary. I don't finish the inside of plywood pieces
unless they'll show, as in a cabinet.

A finished back does show that you care! G

Barry

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
m...
Took my maple dresser I am building to the finishing room tonight (ok, its
the same room as the table saw and everything else, I just wanted to sound
cool) and started applying my finish of choice. Dark brown stain and ...
Just kidding.

I am applying wipe on poly. The dresser has 1/2" maple ply on the sides
and back. My question is do you (should you) apply the poly to the back
side of the ply? Ply should be pretty stable to moisture right? I did it
anyway, but is it really necessary??

Thanks

--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/index.htm
(Featuring a NEW look)

I finish all surfaces if it for the kitchen, bathroom or outside use. For
things like bookcases, dressers or other pieces that are designed to go
against a wall, I don't bother.

Dave




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"B a r r y" wrote in message
. net...
stoutman wrote:
Ply should be pretty stable to moisture right? I did it anyway, but is
it really necessary??

NONE of the antiques we own are finished on the back, nor is any of the
good factory furniture. The antiques even have sawmill marks on the back,
as well as the drawer backs and bottoms. The backs resemble rough pallet
wood.

Since it's a plywood back, and should be firmly attached, I don't think
the finish is necessary. I don't finish the inside of plywood pieces
unless they'll show, as in a cabinet.

A finished back does show that you care! G



Way back when I believe that the only time that backs were finished was if
the piece was designed so the back wasn't going against a wall. I thin that
it was FWW that ran a some pictures of a piece from the Smithsonian. It was
perfect in front and extremely rough in the back. It was great to see the
contrast.

On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 20:09:32 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Frank Drackman" quickly quoth:

"B a r r y" wrote in message
.net...
A finished back does show that you care! G

Way back when I believe that the only time that backs were finished was if
the piece was designed so the back wasn't going against a wall. I thin that
it was FWW that ran a some pictures of a piece from the Smithsonian. It was
perfect in front and extremely rough in the back. It was great to see the
contrast.

Frank Klausz told us to finish all sides of all pieces every time we
make one. And if one side is veneered, the other should be as well.

--
Like they say, 99% of lawyers give the rest a bad name.
------------------------------------------------------
http://diversify.com Lawyer-free Website Development

wrote:

Frank Klausz told us to finish all sides of all pieces every time we
make one. And if one side is veneered, the other should be as well.


I guess all of the furniture makers who made all of the museum pieces
I've looked at didn't know Frank. G

I agree with the veneer comment and do it myself, but I'm seen many
long-surviving contradictions to it.

Barry

"B a r r y" wrote in message
news:3uKIf.388
I guess all of the furniture makers who made all of the museum pieces
I've looked at didn't know Frank. G


How many of those museum pieces came to be antique in centrally heated/air
conditioned buildings?

Did you check the curvature on the growth rings of the lumber they were made
of? Flatter the flatter.

In short, what you say is cute, but foolish.

George wrote:
"B a r r y" wrote in message
news:3uKIf.388
I guess all of the furniture makers who made all of the museum pieces
I've looked at didn't know Frank. G


How many of those museum pieces came to be antique in centrally heated/air
conditioned buildings?

Some are in New England Shaker buildings, or in Old Sturbridge Village,
where they don't have 'lectricity.

Barry (the cute one...)