I bought some 8/4 white oak (quarter sawn) (mucho dinero) expecting to get 1
3/4" thick stock. By the time I take the bow out, I'm getting 1 5/8" stock.
:-( I suppose I'd have to find 10/4 to get 1 3/4" thickness.

I will say that the clear stock I'm getting is good and running about 8%
moisture content. I thought about re-sawing some 1/4" stock to laminate the
boards up to 1 3/4". When I put the 1/2" 4 tooth timberwolf bandsaw blade on
my new Jet 14" bandsaw with the riser kit, it shakes and bakes. I swear the
blade is bad. The 3/8" timberwolf blade I took off didn't act up. :-(

Some days, things just don't work out the way you want. Tomorrow will be
better. I really need to get to the bottom of the 1/2" blade though.

Lowell Holmes wrote:
I bought some 8/4 white oak (quarter sawn) (mucho dinero) expecting
to get 1 3/4" thick stock. By the time I take the bow out, I'm
getting 1 5/8" stock.

It isn't hard to get 1 3/4 from 8/4. Are you taking those nice, long
boards and planing them down? Why? Crosscut first.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"Lowell Holmes" wrote in message
news:acUEf.26784$7l4.22320@trnddc05...
I bought some 8/4 white oak (quarter sawn) (mucho dinero) expecting to get
1 3/4" thick stock. By the time I take the bow out, I'm getting 1 5/8"
stock. :-( I suppose I'd have to find 10/4 to get 1 3/4" thickness.

I will say that the clear stock I'm getting is good and running about 8%
moisture content. I thought about re-sawing some 1/4" stock to laminate
the boards up to 1 3/4". When I put the 1/2" 4 tooth timberwolf bandsaw
blade on my new Jet 14" bandsaw with the riser kit, it shakes and bakes. I
swear the blade is bad. The 3/8" timberwolf blade I took off didn't act
up. :-(

Some days, things just don't work out the way you want. Tomorrow will be
better. I really need to get to the bottom of the 1/2" blade though.

Perhaps a 2 to 3 tooth per inch blade. You may be sawing too aggressively
with the 4 tooth blade.

"
It isn't hard to get 1 3/4 from 8/4. Are you taking those nice, long
boards and planing them down? Why? Crosscut first.

--
dadiOH
____________________________
snip

I'm not cross cutting. I can get 1 3/4" thickness out of the board but there
is up to 1/8" bow in the long direction, In other words, the board is not
straight.. I must have 48" long boards that are absolutely straight.
I have flattened one board with a combination of hand planes and a thickness
planer. It yielded 1 5/8"

Last night I jointed one side of another board (on a jointer) in the long
direction with the wide side of the board down, and it is going to yield 1
5/8".

The boards are absolutely flat, straight, and no twist in them when I get
through. I've never worked with quarter sawn white oak before. The wood is
the best I could get my hands on, and is 8-10% moisture content.

I'm building a rocking chair, so the wood must be absolutely straight. I
will either use the 1 5/8" or else resaw some boards to 3/8", glue them on
to the 1 5/8" stock, and then plane them to 1 3/4" I only need 4 boards that
thickness, so it won't be that much of a job if I go that direction.

I posted my message to see what other guy's do when confronted with this
issue. Thanks for responding.

The other issue is I'm new to using a bandsaw and I'm having a little
problem with the flutter method of tensioning the blade. I think I've
figured that out though. Ripping 8/4 white oak is not much fun on a 10"
table saw, the band saw is the way to go. You can carve those big old pieces
of oak up any way you want to, with no binding or kick-back.

Lowell Holmes wrote:
"
It isn't hard to get 1 3/4 from 8/4. Are you taking those nice, long
boards and planing them down? Why? Crosscut first.

--
dadiOH
____________________________
snip

I'm not cross cutting. I can get 1 3/4" thickness out of the board
but there is up to 1/8" bow in the long direction, In other words,
the board is not straight.. I must have 48" long boards that are
absolutely straight.

The point was that if you crosscut the board into 48"+ pieces before you
join them there will be less bow in each to remove.

Are you saying that *after* you join/plane them to 1 3/4" there is still
1/8" bow in them???? There should be precious little bow in decent
quarter sawn wood even when they are rough.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:gc8Ff.576$Gg1.418@trnddc03...
Are you saying that *after* you join/plane them to 1 3/4" there is still
1/8" bow in them???? There should be precious little bow in decent
quarter sawn wood even when they are rough.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

I'm working boards that are 49" long. By the time I take the boards down to
smooth, straight surfaces, I'm getting 1 5/8". I bought the wood from the
only source of 8/4 quarter sawn oak I know of in Houston. The wood is 2"
thick in the rough state. I think the mills are cutting it too close. The
bow in the wood is 3/32" to 1/8", but the rough surfaces are irregular
enough to require more planing than I expected.

I know why chair makers mill their own wood. :-) The extra 1/8" is only a
matter of proportion and appearance. I had already change proportions of
the pieces to "lighten" the appearance of the craftsman style. I may just go
with the thinner pieces and see how it turns out. I'm going foe more of a
Greene & Greene influence rather than craftsman any way. :-)

Lowell Holmes wrote:

The wood is 2" thick in the rough state. I think the mills
are cutting it too close.

I'd certainly agree with that in your case. I normally get 2 1/8 - 2
1/4 actual thickness when I order 8/4 rough.



--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:4NnFf.5312$xs4.3420@trnddc01...
Lowell Holmes wrote:

The wood is 2" thick in the rough state. I think the mills
are cutting it too close.

I'd certainly agree with that in your case. I normally get 2 1/8 - 2
1/4 actual thickness when I order 8/4 rough.



--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Thanks, that's the info I've looked for. I considered buying the wood planed
to thickness, but the boards I looked at had about 1/8" bow, so I opted for
the rough so I could straighten the wood. The pieces I've straightened are
gorgeous, just a bit thin.

I planed the prototype posts for the chair to 1 5/8" and have decided to go
with that thickness in this case. In the future, I will go to mills that
will make it the thickness I want, but then I may have to deal with moisture
content..

"Lowell Holmes" wrote in message
news:%5oFf.5317$xs4.2545@trnddc01...

"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:4NnFf.5312$xs4.3420@trnddc01...
Lowell Holmes wrote:

The wood is 2" thick in the rough state. I think the mills
are cutting it too close.

I'd certainly agree with that in your case. I normally get 2 1/8 - 2
1/4 actual thickness when I order 8/4 rough.

Thanks, that's the info I've looked for. I considered buying the wood
planed to thickness, but the boards I looked at had about 1/8" bow, so I
opted for the rough so I could straighten the wood. The pieces I've
straightened are gorgeous, just a bit thin.

I planed the prototype posts for the chair to 1 5/8" and have decided to
go with that thickness in this case. In the future, I will go to mills
that will make it the thickness I want, but then I may have to deal with
moisture content..

The mill saws to a standard which will give 1 13/16 ( fat seven quarters)
planks from 8/4 nominal. Anything above that you should consider gravy, or
be prepared to pay extra for.

With a band mill, expect 1" real. With a circular, 1 1/16.

"George" George@least wrote in message
...

"Lowell Holmes" wrote in message
news:%5oFf.5317$xs4.2545@trnddc01...

"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:4NnFf.5312$xs4.3420@trnddc01...
Lowell Holmes wrote:

SNIP The mill saws to a standard which will give 1 13/16 ( fat seven
quarters) planks from 8/4 nominal. Anything above that you should consider
gravy, or be prepared to pay extra for.

With a band mill, expect 1" real. With a circular, 1 1/16.

The issue I have is not just the yield on thickness. I need absolutely
straight material for this project and I will not accept it not being
straight after I'm through. I'm losing the thickness when planing the boards
lengthwise to
straighten them. By the time the thickness is cleaned up to provide 1 3/4",
I've had about 3/32" bow in the boards lengthwise (49" long).

I'm not complaining, just trying to see what my options are in the future.
I'm not quibbling over price, I paid $7.40/ board foot for the 8/4 quarter
sawn oak. I would gladly pay another $1 or so in order to get the thickness
I want in the future. I know that trees do not grow straight and that while
drying, the boards move. This is 8 to 10% moisture content, and I really am
happy with the wood. Like I said earlier, the wood is gorgeous after I get
it straight, smooth and square. I almost hate to start cutting on it.

:-) I really do appreciate your response

"Lowell Holmes" wrote in message
news:0_pFf.5397$xs4.4036@trnddc01...

"George" George@least wrote in message
...

"Lowell Holmes" wrote in message
news:%5oFf.5317$xs4.2545@trnddc01...

"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:4NnFf.5312$xs4.3420@trnddc01...
Lowell Holmes wrote:

SNIP The mill saws to a standard which will give 1 13/16 ( fat seven
quarters) planks from 8/4 nominal. Anything above that you should
consider gravy, or be prepared to pay extra for.

With a band mill, expect 1" real. With a circular, 1 1/16.

The issue I have is not just the yield on thickness. I need absolutely
straight material for this project and I will not accept it not being
straight after I'm through. I'm losing the thickness when planing the
boards lengthwise to
straighten them. By the time the thickness is cleaned up to provide 1
3/4", I've had about 3/32" bow in the boards lengthwise (49" long).

Lots of sapwood? That's an unconscionable amount at half board length.
Only suggestion for the future is to avoid sapwood, because the wood curves
toward it. I assume you crosscut and ripped rough prior to the first
jointer pass, so it's not the sawyer, it's the grader you should blame.
S/he shouldn't have allowed what must have been in effect a slab to grade
that high.