I'd appreciate some suggestions...

I have a locking miter bit for my router table and can cut perfect
loking mitre joints. But when I try to glue these up the thickness of
the glue itself is enough to stop the corners from fitting together as
perfectly as they do in the "dry fit".

Anyone else have this problem?

I'm not putting the glue on super thick... but when I brush it on it
does start to set up pretty quickly. Thin the glue?

I am tempted to just put glue in places and pin the connection. But the
"beauty" of the locking miter is supposed to be the extensive glue
surfaces as well as the mechanical "lock".

I have used TitebondII extended on tight dovetails. Is is rather thinner
than the normal glue and seems to accomodate tight joints better..

"ash_lee" wrote in message
oups.com...
I'd appreciate some suggestions...

I have a locking miter bit for my router table and can cut perfect
loking mitre joints. But when I try to glue these up the thickness of
the glue itself is enough to stop the corners from fitting together as
perfectly as they do in the "dry fit".

Anyone else have this problem?

I'm not putting the glue on super thick... but when I brush it on it
does start to set up pretty quickly. Thin the glue?

I am tempted to just put glue in places and pin the connection. But the
"beauty" of the locking miter is supposed to be the extensive glue
surfaces as well as the mechanical "lock".

ash_lee wrote:
I'd appreciate some suggestions...

I have a locking miter bit for my router table and can cut perfect
loking mitre joints. But when I try to glue these up the thickness of
the glue itself is enough to stop the corners from fitting together as
perfectly as they do in the "dry fit".

Anyone else have this problem?

I'm not putting the glue on super thick... but when I brush it on it
does start to set up pretty quickly. Thin the glue?

I am tempted to just put glue in places and pin the connection. But the
"beauty" of the locking miter is supposed to be the extensive glue
surfaces as well as the mechanical "lock".

How long does it take you between applying the glue and clamping?

Dave

Thu, Jan 12, 2006, 8:27am (EST-3) (ash_lee)
doth query:
snip Thin the glue? snip

I wouldn't. But, on the other hand, I don't need to, because I
already keep a bottle of Titebond II thinned 50% on hand. LOL I'd give
it a shot.



JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear".
What do you "know"?
- Granny Weatherwax

I've used Titebond Extended on the lock miter joint and it has worked
well. You can also adjust the joint to be a bit loose and then there
is space for the glue.

Toller wrote:
I have used TitebondII extended on tight dovetails. Is is rather thinner
than the normal glue and seems to accomodate tight joints better..

"ash_lee" wrote in message
oups.com...
I'd appreciate some suggestions...

I have a locking miter bit for my router table and can cut perfect
loking mitre joints. But when I try to glue these up the thickness of
the glue itself is enough to stop the corners from fitting together as
perfectly as they do in the "dry fit".

Anyone else have this problem?

I'm not putting the glue on super thick... but when I brush it on it
does start to set up pretty quickly. Thin the glue?

I am tempted to just put glue in places and pin the connection. But the
"beauty" of the locking miter is supposed to be the extensive glue
surfaces as well as the mechanical "lock".

50% thinned? With water? Is this correct? I thought 10% was over doing
it. I assume you have no, or very minor problems @ 50%?

There's a bottled liquid hide glue you might want to try.
I think it's a Tite Bond product - comes in a brown
squeeze bottle. The warmer you get it the thinner
it becomes - making it easier to apply a very thin
layer of glue. And it's got some fairly good open time.

BTW - if you make a closed box with all lock mitered
edges - DO NOT DRY FIT THE WHOLE THING - if you
feel you need glue to hold the parts together.

The closed box at the bottom of this page is still
floating around my shop and serves only as a conversation
piece.

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...MiterBox1.html

charlie b

On Fri, 13 Jan 2006 01:50:44 -0800, charlie b
wrote:

The closed box at the bottom of this page is still
floating around my shop and serves only as a conversation
piece.

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...MiterBox1.html

charlie b

Like the box Charlie! I bet some head scratching went into figuring
out the sequence of router cuts!

I can only begin to imagine where some of the shop "conversations"
might lead :~

Regards.

Thu, Jan 12, 2006, 9:37pm (EST-1) (Rick*Samuel)
shouts into the dark:
50% thinned? With water? * Is this correct? I thought 10% was over
doing it. * I assume you have no, or very minor problems @ 50%?

What? What? Who you talking to?



JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear".
What do you "know"?
- Granny Weatherwax

On Fri, Jan 13, 2006, 12:28pm (J*T), that's
me, did reply to
(Rick*Samuel)
with:
*****What? What? Who you talking to?

When you respond to a post, but don't bother stating which post, it
usually confuses people - because most time no one can tell who, or
what, you're responding to. 'Sides, it ain't polite. And, for the
Gods' sakes, if you don't already know ow to snip, learn. It isn't real
cool to copy every bit of a l ong post, unless you plan on responding to
each, and every, but of it.

So, for the benefit of others, I will answer the questions you
asked.
50% thinned? With water? * Is this correct? I thought 10% was over
doing it. * I assume you have no, or very minor problems @ 50%?

Yes, 50% thinned.*****
I did say Titebond II, so, yes, water.
Yes, correct. Not sure if you doubt my word, or what.
I have considered mixing up some thinned down to 25% - that's 25%
Titebond II, 75% water
I would have thought it was obvious I have not problems with 50%,
otherwise I wouldn't keep it on hand.

I don't recall the exact bonding strength of Titebond - or any
other glue for that matter. They're all stronger than the wood tho, so
it's pretty much moot. So, I'll say if it's 2500 PSI at full strength,
50% should be 1250 PSI strength, and 25% should be 675 PSI. My MAIN
use of the thinned is for gluing paper onto wood. Which is why I think
the 25% may work for me - if I ever get around to trying it - maybe
later today. I have NO problems using the 50%, part of the reason for
thinning was to insure paper penetration. After it dries overnight,
it's settled down right onto the wood, even showing the wood grain.
Works very nicely. So, I'm thinking the 25% will do even better, save
me some glue, and will be more than strong enough for my use.

And, yes, at times I do use the 50% on wood, and have had no
probems using it. It penetrates small gaps nicely - much better than
full strength, and I have had no problems with holding power. I do NOT
use it all the time. For most work, I use the full strength.

I started out using full strength with the paper, and didn't care
for the results. Thinned it a bit, better. Thinned more, even better.
Stopped 'spearminting at 50% because it works so nice. But, now that
I'm reminded, I'm gonna thin down some to 25%, and see how it does.

I usually don't bother to ask people if something like that will
work or not, just go ahead, try it, and see for myself how it works.
I've found out that a whole lot of the people who'll tell you something
won't work have no first-hand experience with it. Read the sig.



JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear".
What do you "know"?
- Granny Weatherwax