The fence on my PC circular saw is about 1/16" out of parallel. Is
there any easy way to fix this? Thanks.

JP

Jay Pique wrote:
The fence on my PC circular saw is about 1/16" out of parallel. Is
there any easy way to fix this? Thanks.

JP

Buy a Dewalt DW364. It has a fine adjustment of parallel.

I'm on my 3rd one, my first was bought in 92 or 93. It burned out in
04. I bought a new one in 04. Some one stole it in 05. Got a new one a
week later. Now I keep it locked up so well, I hate having to get it
out to work with it.

Tom in KY, my cordless saw is a PC, no adjustment found to make it
closer to parallel.

"Jay Pique" wrote in message
oups.com...
The fence on my PC circular saw is about 1/16" out of parallel. Is
there any easy way to fix this? Thanks.

JP


a hammer or place the fence in a vice and bend it until it's closer

you asked for easy......it's what I've done with several Skil saws after
others had dropped them or stuffed them in the crossbox with six nail guns
and two other saws.......

Gary

If it's the same as on my PC circular saw, all you can do is bend it.
It is definitely not a precision instrument. Compared to the rest
of the saw, it was downright disappointing.

Jay Pique wrote:
The fence on my PC circular saw is about 1/16" out of parallel. Is
there any easy way to fix this? Thanks.

JP

Thu, Jan 5, 2006, 7:24pm (EST-3) (Jay*Pique) who
doth lament:
The fence on my PC circular saw is about 1/16" out of parallel. Is there
any easy way to fix this? Thanks.

I ran into t hat seme problem on my chain saw. So I decided to
just do without the fence.

I'd say if you want reasonable accuracy with a circular saw, use a
straight edge, not a fence.



JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear".
What do you "know"?
- Granny Weatherwax

"J T" wrote in message
...
Thu, Jan 5, 2006, 7:24pm (EST-3) (Jay Pique) who
doth lament:
The fence on my PC circular saw is about 1/16" out of parallel. Is there
any easy way to fix this? Thanks.

I ran into t hat seme problem on my chain saw. So I decided to
just do without the fence.


This just ain't right - who's going to pay for a new keyboard?

--

-Mike-

J T wrote:
Thu, Jan 5, 2006, 7:24pm (EST-3) (Jay Pique) who
doth lament:
The fence on my PC circular saw is about 1/16" out of parallel. Is there
any easy way to fix this? Thanks.

I ran into t hat seme problem on my chain saw. So I decided to
just do without the fence.

I'd say if you want reasonable accuracy with a circular saw, use a
straight edge, not a fence.

I *do* use a straightedge. Usually it's my speedsquare, but for
knocking down large sheetgoods sometimes I use a long straightedge.
The problem is that the blade wants to wander away from the line when I
push the fence tight to the straightedge. Looks like I need a bigger
hammer....

JP

i've been using circular saws for 35 years, never used a fence yet, toss it
out. as for as fences go: skil is the worst, pc is ok, milwaukees work real
well.

"Jay Pique" wrote in message
oups.com...
The fence on my PC circular saw is about 1/16" out of parallel. Is
there any easy way to fix this? Thanks.

JP

Fri, Jan 6, 2006, 5:12am (EST-3) doth
boasteth:
Buy a Dewalt DW364. It has a fine adjustment of parallel.
I'm on my 3rd one, my first was bought in 92 or 93. It burned out in
04. snip

My little B&D was given to me in 1982 or 1983. Still works, still
use it. To cut straight, I use a straight edge. I got one of the el
cheapo, around $5-6, carbide tip blades a few years back, and it cuts
just like an expensive saw.



JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear".
What do you "know"?
- Granny Weatherwax

The Jay Pique entity posted thusly:


J T wrote:

I'd say if you want reasonable accuracy with a circular saw, use a
straight edge, not a fence.

I *do* use a straightedge. Usually it's my speedsquare, but for
knocking down large sheetgoods sometimes I use a long straightedge.
The problem is that the blade wants to wander away from the line when I
push the fence tight to the straightedge. Looks like I need a bigger
hammer....

Or a slicker solution...

1. 'Shim' the fence with a small bolt if you can figure out a way to
do it without causing the both head to snag against a straightedge

2. Just yesterday, I gave a friend a straightedge with a 'base' that
he was to cut with his saw in order to produce a straightedge that he
can use to set right on the marks to get an accurate cut.

Later that afternoon, I saw an even better solution, in a book I got
from the library. It's called "Shop-Built Jigs and Fixtures", by
Woodsmith Magazine (Oxmoor House), ISBN 0-8487-2677-4.

The basic idea is a straightedge with a base that aligns with the saw
blade, but the slick part is that the straightedge has a slot in it
that mates with a 'sled' that holds your circular saw. One main
advantage is that when you put the saw in the sled, it's held captive,
so you don't have to worry about holding it against the straightedge,
as it cannot wander left or right.

The advantage for you is that you can build it such that the saw can
be positioned correctly and repeatably in the sled.



Larry
---
There are 10 kinds of people --
those who understand binary, and those who don't.
-- Uncle Phil

It sounds to me that some people are taking "fence" to mean an edge
guide and others to mean the the saw's base plate.

Are you asking about the adjustable guide that can be removed from the
saw or about the base plate that is part of the saw?

I'm not into circle saws, but I have never seen one where the alignment
of the edge of the base plate to the blade can be adjusted (other than
bending something).

Jay Pique wrote:
J T wrote:
Thu, Jan 5, 2006, 7:24pm (EST-3) (Jay Pique) who
doth lament:
The fence on my PC circular saw is about 1/16" out of parallel. Is there
any easy way to fix this? Thanks.

I ran into t hat seme problem on my chain saw. So I decided to
just do without the fence.

I'd say if you want reasonable accuracy with a circular saw, use a
straight edge, not a fence.

I *do* use a straightedge. Usually it's my speedsquare, but for
knocking down large sheetgoods sometimes I use a long straightedge.
The problem is that the blade wants to wander away from the line when I
push the fence tight to the straightedge. Looks like I need a bigger
hammer....

Maybe I've misled some of you folks. What I mean is that the edge of
the sole plate on which the saw slides across the wood is not parallel
to the blade. I guess fence was the wrong word.

JP