I am not really skilled in w.w. however, I want to cut some thin
slices from burled walnut and wrap them around some 4 to 6 inch
posts that will be in the sun.

What is the best way to cut (with bandsaw and fixture?) and best
way to ensure they won't crack when wrapping them on posts (steam
and quicily apply?) or, ...

I am open to all suggestions if you will help.

Thanks

I may be getting lost in the bold type posts.

On Sun, 01 Jan 2006 04:52:22 GMT, Jim wrote:

"
"
"I am not really skilled in w.w. however, I want to cut some thin
"slices from burled walnut and wrap them around some 4 to 6 inch
"posts that will be in the sun.
"
"What is the best way to cut (with bandsaw and fixture?) and best
"way to ensure they won't crack when wrapping them on posts
(steam
"and quicily apply?) or, ...
"
"I am open to all suggestions if you will help.
"
"Thanks

"Jim" wrote in message
...


I am not really skilled in w.w. however, I want to cut some thin
slices from burled walnut and wrap them around some 4 to 6 inch
posts that will be in the sun.

What is the best way to cut (with bandsaw and fixture?) and best
way to ensure they won't crack when wrapping them on posts (steam
and quicily apply?) or, ...

I am open to all suggestions if you will help.

======Other than for furniture grade fence posts, what is your intention.
Are these round fence posts? Square? When you say thin, how thin is that?

Leif

Leif Thorvaldson wrote:
"Jim" wrote in message
...


I am not really skilled in w.w. however, I want to cut some thin
slices from burled walnut and wrap them around some 4 to 6 inch
posts that will be in the sun.


Your objective is obviously for looks and not function. There are
several reasons why your plan may fail, and there may be a few other
options, for you, in acquiring the look you want.
Failu *Your burl may crack/check while you are trying to cut your
veneer pieces. Depending on how you cut it, it may heat up as you cut.
There are varying densities within the burl and it will expand and
contract at varying temps. *Your burl veneer may likely crack/check
when you are attempting to attach it to the posts, no matter what
method you use to bend it. Again, the varying densities may play a part
with that, in that the border between two different density areas may
react differently to the stress/strain of the bending. *IF you should
get it attached sufficiently, it will likely crack/check at some later
time because of expansion/contraction, when being heated by the sun, of
the different density areas. *It may detach from your posts because of
the different density of the burl, as a whole, compared to the posts
themselves. And I suppose you plan on clearcoating the burl (sun
exposed? That won't work out well, either). And leaving it raw surely
won't work for looks. Clearcoating it will not last very long, being
exposed to sunlight, unless you plan on recoating often. For clear
coating exterior pieces, I would recommend tung oil or WaterLox, but
even these will deteriorate, over time, when exposed.
Options: *Buy walnut veneer and apply to your posts. THis will save
time and effort. *Faux stain your posts to look like burled walnut.
Practice on some scrap wood to get your technique down and the proper
look you want. Sponge or rough rag. Stains used on barns may be and
option rather than standard project staining. *If you have some nice
burl walnut, save it for another nice project worthy of walnut and,
maybe, make some rosettes or pull knobs with any small scraps. Rosettes
and pull knobs are good practice projects for any woodworker, novice or
pro.

Sonny

They are round posts. Thinness doesn't matter just as long as I
can bend it around in a circle or semi-circle


On Sun, 1 Jan 2006 01:11:17 -0800, "Leif Thorvaldson"
wrote:

"
""Jim" wrote in message
.. .
"
"
" I am not really skilled in w.w. however, I want to cut some
thin
" slices from burled walnut and wrap them around some 4 to 6
inch
" posts that will be in the sun.
"
" What is the best way to cut (with bandsaw and fixture?) and
best
" way to ensure they won't crack when wrapping them on posts
(steam
" and quicily apply?) or, ...
"
" I am open to all suggestions if you will help.
"
"======Other than for furniture grade fence posts, what is your
intention.
"Are these round fence posts? Square? When you say thin, how
thin is that?
"
"Leif
"

Yes they will be for looks only.

I have seen burled walnut on auto dashboards, handles, etc. I
don't need any particular thickness, just as long as it will wrap
around a circle or semi-cirlce.

A certain amound of u.v. will be blocked by glass and refinishing
won't be too much trouble for me.

Thanks

On 1 Jan 2006 08:10:18 -0800, "Sonny" wrote:

"
"L eif Thorvaldson wrote:
" "Jim" wrote in message
" ...
"
"
" I am not really skilled in w.w. however, I want to cut some
thin
" slices from burled walnut and wrap them around some 4 to 6
inch
" posts that will be in the sun.
"
"
"Your objective is obviously for looks and not function. There
are
"several reasons why your plan may fail, and there may be a few
other
"options, for you, in acquiring the look you want.
"Failu *Your burl may crack/check while you are trying to cut
your
"veneer pieces. Depending on how you cut it, it may heat up as
you cut.
"There are varying densities within the burl and it will expand
and
"contract at varying temps. *Your burl veneer may likely
crack/check
"when you are attempting to attach it to the posts, no matter
what
"method you use to bend it. Again, the varying densities may play
a part
"with that, in that the border between two different density
areas may
"react differently to the stress/strain of the bending. *IF you
should
"get it attached sufficiently, it will likely crack/check at some
later
"time because of expansion/contraction, when being heated by the
sun, of
"the different density areas. *It may detach from your posts
because of
"the different density of the burl, as a whole, compared to the
posts
"themselves. And I suppose you plan on clearcoating the burl
(sun
"exposed? That won't work out well, either). And leaving it raw
surely
"won't work for looks. Clearcoating it will not last very long,
being
"exposed to sunlight, unless you plan on recoating often. For
clear
"coating exterior pieces, I would recommend tung oil or WaterLox,
but
"even these will deteriorate, over time, when exposed.
"Options: *Buy walnut veneer and apply to your posts. THis will
save
"time and effort. *Faux stain your posts to look like burled
walnut.
"Practice on some scrap wood to get your technique down and the
proper
"look you want. Sponge or rough rag. Stains used on barns may be
and
"option rather than standard project staining. *If you have some
nice
"burl walnut, save it for another nice project worthy of walnut
and,
"maybe, make some rosettes or pull knobs with any small scraps.
Rosettes
"and pull knobs are good practice projects for any woodworker,
novice or
"pro.
"
"Sonny

No Staiin!

Can burled walnut veneer be bought? If so, how do 'they' make
it?



On 1 Jan 2006 08:10:18 -0800, "Sonny" wrote:

"
"Leif Thorvaldson wrote:
" "Jim" wrote in message
" ...
"
"
" I am not really skilled in w.w. however, I want to cut some
thin
" slices from burled walnut and wrap them around some 4 to 6
inch
" posts that will be in the sun.
"
"
"Your objective is obviously for looks and not function. There
are
"several reasons why your plan may fail, and there may be a few
other
"options, for you, in acquiring the look you want.
"Failu *Your burl may crack/check while you are trying to cut
your
"veneer pieces. Depending on how you cut it, it may heat up as
you cut.
"There are varying densities within the burl and it will expand
and
"contract at varying temps. *Your burl veneer may likely
crack/check
"when you are attempting to attach it to the posts, no matter
what
"method you use to bend it. Again, the varying densities may play
a part
"with that, in that the border between two different density
areas may
"react differently to the stress/strain of the bending. *IF you
should
"get it attached sufficiently, it will likely crack/check at some
later
"time because of expansion/contraction, when being heated by the
sun, of
"the different density areas. *It may detach from your posts
because of
"the different density of the burl, as a whole, compared to the
posts
"themselves. And I suppose you plan on clearcoating the burl
(sun
"exposed? That won't work out well, either). And leaving it raw
surely
"won't work for looks. Clearcoating it will not last very long,
being
"exposed to sunlight, unless you plan on recoating often. For
clear
"coating exterior pieces, I would recommend tung oil or WaterLox,
but
"even these will deteriorate, over time, when exposed.
"Options: *Buy walnut veneer and apply to your posts. THis will
save
"time and effort. *Faux stain your posts to look like burled
walnut.
"Practice on some scrap wood to get your technique down and the
proper
"look you want. Sponge or rough rag. Stains used on barns may be
and
"option rather than standard project staining. *If you have some
nice
"burl walnut, save it for another nice project worthy of walnut
and,
"maybe, make some rosettes or pull knobs with any small scraps.
Rosettes
"and pull knobs are good practice projects for any woodworker,
novice or
"pro.
"
"Sonny

Can burled walnut veneer be bought? If so, how do 'they' make
it?


Most veneers are cut relatively the same way. Any type of burl is
harder to cut and get a good piece of large size. Plain walnut veneer,
as any veneer, is readily available. Burl walnut veneer will cost at
least 5 times more than plain walnut veneer because it is more
difficult to cut a decent and large piece. Burl is also not so
plentiful, in that it is cut from one specific area of a tree, hence
the tree size limits the amount of burl within it and the size of a
sheet of burl. Multiple sheets with a similar grain pattern are a
premium also.

Your original query implied your posts were on the exterior. UV light
does not penetrate glass, so any clear coating may not be affected by
UV light, however that sunlight may affect it as it does with fabric,
rugs, pictures, etc. that tend to fade when exposed.

To buy raw veneer of Walnut Burl you buy what is commonly known as "Flitch"
Which is a chunk of wood that is sliced into Venners.
You can then take this and do a lay-up by bookmatching and quatering the
peices as ech peice is close to the same look

If you buy the venner already laid up this is what you see a bunch of small
peices of wood layed up into a 4' x 8' sheet
I'm working with some on a project now, a 4 x8 sheet runs about 450.00

I'll take my camera to the shop tommorrow and see if i can get a good shot
that may show agood portion of the lay-ups

George
"Sonny" wrote in message
oups.com...
Can burled walnut veneer be bought? If so, how do 'they' make
it?


Most veneers are cut relatively the same way. Any type of burl is
harder to cut and get a good piece of large size. Plain walnut veneer,
as any veneer, is readily available. Burl walnut veneer will cost at
least 5 times more than plain walnut veneer because it is more
difficult to cut a decent and large piece. Burl is also not so
plentiful, in that it is cut from one specific area of a tree, hence
the tree size limits the amount of burl within it and the size of a
sheet of burl. Multiple sheets with a similar grain pattern are a
premium also.

Your original query implied your posts were on the exterior. UV light
does not penetrate glass, so any clear coating may not be affected by
UV light, however that sunlight may affect it as it does with fabric,
rugs, pictures, etc. that tend to fade when exposed.