What is the proper adhesive and procedure for glueing up some 3/4 veneered
MDF? The veneer is so thin that if I tried to clean up any squeeze-out I
will probably ruin the veneer. The joints will be mitered. Either I am
looking in the wrong spots but after a google search I found nothing helpful.

thanks!

pierce

Just use contact cement.
Put on both surfaces - wait until it gets tacky and press together.

"R. Pierce Butler" wrote in message
. 1...
What is the proper adhesive and procedure for glueing up some 3/4 veneered
MDF? The veneer is so thin that if I tried to clean up any squeeze-out I
will probably ruin the veneer. The joints will be mitered. Either I am
looking in the wrong spots but after a google search I found nothing
helpful.

thanks!

pierce

"Rob V" wrote in
nk.net:

Just use contact cement.
Put on both surfaces - wait until it gets tacky and press together.


The joints are rather long. Each is over 7 ft in length.

Somehow spreading contact cement with a brush isn't going to cut it.





"R. Pierce Butler" wrote in message
. 1...
What is the proper adhesive and procedure for glueing up some 3/4
veneered MDF? The veneer is so thin that if I tried to clean up any
squeeze-out I will probably ruin the veneer. The joints will be
mitered. Either I am looking in the wrong spots but after a google
search I found nothing helpful.

thanks!

pierce

R. Pierce Butler wrote:
What is the proper adhesive and procedure for glueing up some 3/4 veneered
MDF? The veneer is so thin that if I tried to clean up any squeeze-out I
will probably ruin the veneer. The joints will be mitered. Either I am
looking in the wrong spots but after a google search I found nothing helpful.

thanks!

pierce


G'day Pierce,
If I read this right - you have 3/4" veneered MDF board and intend to
make right angled joints that will mitred !!.
I have done quite a bit of work with veneered board, both chippy and MDF.
The norm is to glue it with PVA and wipe any excess with a damp cloth
(Damp not wet)
Now for the hard part, the corner.
What ever you do do not sand that corner with anything greater than 120g.
Only touch it so as to put a small arris on the corner and remove the
sharpness.
To sand the flat use a sanding block, either cork or a shop bought one.
A scraper can come in handy to, but keep it flat, especially when close
to the corners.
While doing my apprenticeship this was the hardest type of joint to
learn to do properly and it has been the hardest to teach to apprentices.
These days, my preferred route would be to use 3/4" filler strip of
matching or contrasting timber in the corners, either dowel or biscuit
the board to it.
hope this helps a bit.
Just take you time and all should be well

regards
John

R. Pierce Butler wrote:
"Rob V" wrote in
nk.net:

Just use contact cement.
Put on both surfaces - wait until it gets tacky and press together.


The joints are rather long. Each is over 7 ft in length.

Somehow spreading contact cement with a brush isn't going to cut it.


Some of us use a short nap roller on large surfaces. G

Barry

John B wrote in
:

R. Pierce Butler wrote:
What is the proper adhesive and procedure for glueing up some 3/4
veneered MDF? The veneer is so thin that if I tried to clean up any
squeeze-out I will probably ruin the veneer. The joints will be
mitered. Either I am looking in the wrong spots but after a google
search I found nothing helpful.

thanks!

pierce


G'day Pierce,
If I read this right - you have 3/4" veneered MDF board and intend to
make right angled joints that will mitred !!.
I have done quite a bit of work with veneered board, both chippy and
MDF. The norm is to glue it with PVA and wipe any excess with a damp
cloth (Damp not wet)
Now for the hard part, the corner.
What ever you do do not sand that corner with anything greater than
120g. Only touch it so as to put a small arris on the corner and remove
the sharpness.
To sand the flat use a sanding block, either cork or a shop bought one.
A scraper can come in handy to, but keep it flat, especially when close
to the corners.
While doing my apprenticeship this was the hardest type of joint to
learn to do properly and it has been the hardest to teach to
apprentices. These days, my preferred route would be to use 3/4" filler
strip of matching or contrasting timber in the corners, either dowel or
biscuit the board to it.
hope this helps a bit.
Just take you time and all should be well

regards
John


Thanks for the tips. Gives me a fair amount to consider. Maybe some edge
banding would be part of the solution as well. I am not sure I can handle
either but the filler strip sounds quite doable.

thanks

Use a roller.

I did an entertainment/wall unit that was 12 feet long that had mahogany
veneer on it.
Just roll it out.

Also - if you need to joint it at all - sandwich the 2 mating between 2
pieces of MDF and use a flush trim bit to get a nice flat joint.


"R. Pierce Butler" wrote in message
. 1...
"Rob V" wrote in
nk.net:

Just use contact cement.
Put on both surfaces - wait until it gets tacky and press together.


The joints are rather long. Each is over 7 ft in length.

Somehow spreading contact cement with a brush isn't going to cut it.





"R. Pierce Butler" wrote in message
. 1...
What is the proper adhesive and procedure for glueing up some 3/4
veneered MDF? The veneer is so thin that if I tried to clean up any
squeeze-out I will probably ruin the veneer. The joints will be
mitered. Either I am looking in the wrong spots but after a google
search I found nothing helpful.

thanks!

pierce

"R. Pierce Butler" wrote in message
. 1...
John B wrote in
:

R. Pierce Butler wrote:
What is the proper adhesive and procedure for glueing up some 3/4
veneered MDF? The veneer is so thin that if I tried to clean up any
squeeze-out I will probably ruin the veneer. The joints will be
mitered. Either I am looking in the wrong spots but after a google
search I found nothing helpful.

thanks!

pierce


G'day Pierce,
If I read this right - you have 3/4" veneered MDF board and intend to
make right angled joints that will mitred !!.
I have done quite a bit of work with veneered board, both chippy and
MDF. The norm is to glue it with PVA and wipe any excess with a damp
cloth (Damp not wet)
Now for the hard part, the corner.
What ever you do do not sand that corner with anything greater than
120g. Only touch it so as to put a small arris on the corner and remove
the sharpness.
To sand the flat use a sanding block, either cork or a shop bought one.
A scraper can come in handy to, but keep it flat, especially when close
to the corners.
While doing my apprenticeship this was the hardest type of joint to
learn to do properly and it has been the hardest to teach to
apprentices. These days, my preferred route would be to use 3/4" filler
strip of matching or contrasting timber in the corners, either dowel or
biscuit the board to it.
hope this helps a bit.
Just take you time and all should be well

regards
John


Thanks for the tips. Gives me a fair amount to consider. Maybe some edge
banding would be part of the solution as well. I am not sure I can handle
either but the filler strip sounds quite doable.

thanks


If you are going to use a finish that has a volatile that will effect the
veneer adhesive [such as laquer,laquer thinner with contact cement] then
just use a glue such as tightbond .

Use the thickest veneer you can get this will facilitate sanding ,scraping
etc to get a decent finish .

As far as corners go most finishers recommend rounding most sharp edges as
the finishes tend to migrate from sharp edges. To solve this problem I
usually edge the MDF with wood the same species as the veneer. I use a
router cutter with a bearing a rebate in the MDF and edging material and
spline them together, this method guarantees a perfect fit. So now veneer
over the whole and when you mitre the corners they can be rounded over with
appearance of the whole thing being solid wood.

I have used this procedure recently and built a vacuum press which produced
very good results . If interested try joewoodworker.com.....