Hello group,

New to the group (mostly lurking and learning), relatively new to
woodworking.

I was given a set of drawers made of MDF and finished with latex paint
(semi-gloss). I built a cabinet for them and am using them for shop
storage.

The bottoms of the drawers are made of 1/8 inch hardboard, but
unfortunately, are simply nailed to the botom of the drawers, rather
than being set into dadoes. I find the drawers won't take very much
weight before the botoms sag, which causes the drawer below to "hang
up" on the one above as I try to open them.

To remedy this and improve the weight carrying ability, I thought of
removing the botoms and gluing rectangular strips (1/2 x 3/4), to the
inside perimeter of the drawers and then droping in a 1/4" or 3/8"
plywood bottom onto the strips.

I wanted to know if anyone can suggest a glue that will bond MDF (or
other wood material), to latex paint, as I don't want to have to sand
down all the drawer boxes.

Perhaps some also has an alternative way to "fix" these drawers ?

If it were just a few drawers, I would simply scrap these and build
new ones with a better design, but there are 14 of them and I have
several other more pressing projects I'd like to be working on.

Thank you in advance to anyone who can offer some suggestions.

Dave J.

In article ,
Dave Jenkens wrote:

I wanted to know if anyone can suggest a glue that will bond MDF (or
other wood material), to latex paint, as I don't want to have to sand
down all the drawer boxes.

I have one of those cheapo rabbeting bits with a multitude of bearing
sizes, right down to 1/16".
If you were to run that along the inside perimeter of the drawer box
(bottom), it would remove the paint and give your cleats a nice toothy
surface to adhere to. So what if you can't get quite into the
corner..just make the cleat a bit shorter.

Thank you in advance to anyone who can offer some suggestions.

Welcome to the group. I think your idea of supports inside the drawers
is a good one - at least a lot better than the current drawer design.
As far as gluing to MDF or latex paint, I've had good luck with Gorilla
Glue (or similar polyurethane glue). You will probably want to rough
up both surfaces with coarse sandpaper or a rasp first, dust them off,
and make sure they're at least a little bit moist, then use gorilla
glue and clamps. Far easier than sanding to bare wood, though. Be
aware that this glue foams, so you'll probably get some foamy
squeeze-out that hardens, but it's fairly easy to scrape off.
Good luck,
Andy

Dave Jenkens wrote:
Hello group,

New to the group (mostly lurking and learning), relatively new to
woodworking.

I was given a set of drawers made of MDF and finished with latex paint
(semi-gloss). I built a cabinet for them and am using them for shop
storage.

The bottoms of the drawers are made of 1/8 inch hardboard, but
unfortunately, are simply nailed to the botom of the drawers, rather
than being set into dadoes. I find the drawers won't take very much
weight before the botoms sag, which causes the drawer below to "hang
up" on the one above as I try to open them.

To remedy this and improve the weight carrying ability, I thought of
removing the botoms and gluing rectangular strips (1/2 x 3/4), to the
inside perimeter of the drawers and then droping in a 1/4" or 3/8"
plywood bottom onto the strips.

I wanted to know if anyone can suggest a glue that will bond MDF (or
other wood material), to latex paint, as I don't want to have to sand
down all the drawer boxes.

Perhaps some also has an alternative way to "fix" these drawers ?

If it were just a few drawers, I would simply scrap these and build
new ones with a better design, but there are 14 of them and I have
several other more pressing projects I'd like to be working on.

Thank you in advance to anyone who can offer some suggestions.

Dave J.

How about using a slot cutting bit in a router to make some dadoes in the
side and front of the drawer. You could trim off the bottom of the drawer
back to slide the plywood into the slot. Since the dadoes won't meet
properly at the front corners, you could simply trim the front corners of
the plywood bottom to fit. You could clamp a 2x4 (or something) along the
side to give you a broader base for the router to ride on.

Welcome Dave,

I think if you just do a bit of sanding where the strips will be mounted and
use regular yellow glue they will be fine for light loads. The latex has
most likely soaked in real well to the MDF and the glue should have no
problem adhering to the sanded sections.

To make the strips stronger add 3 screws thru the MDF and into the strips.
Drill thru the MDF (use same size bit as the major diameter of screw) and
countersink the heads. Use plain old pine for the strips unless you have
some scrap hardwood lying around that you can cut into strips. Glue the
strips to the drawers, add the screws and then secure the drop-in bottoms
with small brads or glue.

Bob S.


"Dave Jenkens" wrote in message
...

Hello group,

New to the group (mostly lurking and learning), relatively new to
woodworking.

I was given a set of drawers made of MDF and finished with latex paint
(semi-gloss). I built a cabinet for them and am using them for shop
storage.

The bottoms of the drawers are made of 1/8 inch hardboard, but
unfortunately, are simply nailed to the botom of the drawers, rather
than being set into dadoes. I find the drawers won't take very much
weight before the botoms sag, which causes the drawer below to "hang
up" on the one above as I try to open them.

To remedy this and improve the weight carrying ability, I thought of
removing the botoms and gluing rectangular strips (1/2 x 3/4), to the
inside perimeter of the drawers and then droping in a 1/4" or 3/8"
plywood bottom onto the strips.

I wanted to know if anyone can suggest a glue that will bond MDF (or
other wood material), to latex paint, as I don't want to have to sand
down all the drawer boxes.

Perhaps some also has an alternative way to "fix" these drawers ?

If it were just a few drawers, I would simply scrap these and build
new ones with a better design, but there are 14 of them and I have
several other more pressing projects I'd like to be working on.

Thank you in advance to anyone who can offer some suggestions.

Dave J.

Dave Jenkens wrote:
Hello group,

New to the group (mostly lurking and learning), relatively new to
woodworking.

I was given a set of drawers made of MDF and finished with latex paint
(semi-gloss). I built a cabinet for them and am using them for shop
storage.

The bottoms of the drawers are made of 1/8 inch hardboard, but
unfortunately, are simply nailed to the botom of the drawers, rather
than being set into dadoes. I find the drawers won't take very much
weight before the botoms sag, which causes the drawer below to "hang
up" on the one above as I try to open them.

To remedy this and improve the weight carrying ability, I thought of
removing the botoms and gluing rectangular strips (1/2 x 3/4), to the
inside perimeter of the drawers and then droping in a 1/4" or 3/8"
plywood bottom onto the strips.

I wanted to know if anyone can suggest a glue that will bond MDF (or
other wood material), to latex paint, as I don't want to have to sand
down all the drawer boxes.

Use caulk. Cheapo "painter's" latex type would be fine. If you don't
completely trust it (I would) add a couple of small screws or brads.

The strips below the bottoms won't keep them from sagging though...to do
that, add strips *above* the bottoms too. Strips 3/8 x 3/8 or 1/4 x
1/4 above and below would fix them fine.

Alternatively, glue the drawer bottoms to all drawer vertical parts.
The strips are better.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 14:36:31 GMT, "dadiOH"
wrote:



Use caulk. Cheapo "painter's" latex type would be fine. If you don't
completely trust it (I would) add a couple of small screws or brads.


SNIP

Thank you for your reply to my inquiry. The latex caulking sounds like
an interesting idea. I didn't mention in my original post - I
aboslutel intended to use brads or screws to hold the strips, in
addition to whatever glue.

The strips below the bottoms won't keep them from sagging though...to do
that, add strips *above* the bottoms too.

SNIP

As to the sagging, I may not have clearly explained my intent. I know
the sagging cannot be prevented because the existing bottoms are just
too thin. My intent was to REMOVE the existing material and go to 1/4
or 3/8 plywood, which would not sag.

Thanks again for your ideas

Dave J.

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 21:03:10 GMT, "Bob S" wrote:

Hello Bob,

Welcome Dave,

Thank you.

I think if you just do a bit of sanding where the strips will be mounted and
use regular yellow glue they will be fine for light loads. The latex has
most likely soaked in real well to the MDF and the glue should have no
problem adhering to the sanded sections.

OK - I'll perhaps try that on one drawer to see how it works.

To make the strips stronger add 3 screws thru the MDF and into the strips.

Didn't put it in my original post, but was going to use brads or
screws.

Drill thru the MDF (use same size bit as the major diameter of screw) and
countersink the heads.

Thanks for that tip. I have done that previously when joining
materials.

Have a related tip I would like to share. After driiling and
countersinking the piece the screw will pass right through, flip it
over and slightly countersink the hole where the screw will come out
of. This area allows a space for wood particles that lift up out of
the blind hole that the screw goes into in the other board and allows
a super tight fit between the two boards. Especially good when
screwing into particle board or MDF. Not my original idea - I saw it
in a book of tips and am just passing it on.

Dave J.

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 18:28:21 GMT, "Saudade"
wrote:



How about using a slot cutting bit in a router to make some dadoes in the
side and front of the drawer. You could trim off the bottom of the drawer
back to slide the plywood into the slot. Since the dadoes won't meet
properly at the front corners, you could simply trim the front corners of
the plywood bottom to fit. You could clamp a 2x4 (or something) along the
side to give you a broader base for the router to ride on.

Great idea, Saudade. I don't have a slot cutted bit, but I can
possible borrow one.

thank you for the idea,

Dave J.

On 20 Dec 2005 09:50:57 -0800, "Andy" wrote:


Hello Andy,

Welcome to the group.

thank you.

SNIP

As far as gluing to MDF or latex paint, I've had good luck with Gorilla
Glue (or similar polyurethane glue).

I have ELMER's band Pro Bond polyurethane, which is probably similar.

SNIP

Be aware that this glue foams, so you'll probably get some foamy
squeeze-out that hardens, but it's fairly easy to scrape off.

Thank you for that tip. I have worked with polyurethane previously
doing some boat repairs and discovere the foaming.

Dave J.

On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 12:44:08 -0500, Robatoy
wrote:


I have one of those cheapo rabbeting bits with a multitude of bearing
sizes, right down to 1/16".
If you were to run that along the inside perimeter of the drawer box
(bottom), it would remove the paint and give your cleats a nice toothy
surface to adhere to. So what if you can't get quite into the
corner..just make the cleat a bit shorter.

Very good suggestion - thank you !

Dave J.

Dave Jenkens wrote:
The strips below the bottoms won't keep them from sagging
though...to do that, add strips *above* the bottoms too.

SNIP

As to the sagging, I may not have clearly explained my intent. I know
the sagging cannot be prevented because the existing bottoms are just
too thin. My intent was to REMOVE the existing material and go to 1/4
or 3/8 plywood, which would not sag.

Depends on what you put in the drawers.

For a bottom to sag it has to *bend*. A tight fit twixt top and bottom
strips plus glue helps keep it from bending.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Good tip - thanks,

Bob S.


Have a related tip I would like to share. After driiling and
countersinking the piece the screw will pass right through, flip it
over and slightly countersink the hole where the screw will come out
of. This area allows a space for wood particles that lift up out of
the blind hole that the screw goes into in the other board and allows
a super tight fit between the two boards. Especially good when
screwing into particle board or MDF. Not my original idea - I saw it
in a book of tips and am just passing it on.

Dave J.