I have a 1-1/4" thick 30" x 64" pine desk finished in clear lacquer. Its
writing surface is beat up. I'm going to paint it with Behr Red Bark
(4c18-1) hi-gloss paint, after I sand, patch and prime it, to match room
casing and other furniture I'll paint. I am not considering a clear finish.

A large part of the damage has mostly not broken through the clear surface
finish. But these dents are numerous and lengthy. Like a kid skateboarded on
marbles. There are some other smallish chips, burns, and dents. I would have
to belt sand or power plane too much. . I do not want to undercut all of
these with a chisel or get out the Dremel. In that case I'd rather live with
the indentations under the paint. They are concave like a marble impression.
I'd be fine scuffing them up, but not getting any undercut. That would be
creating damage and going in the other direction.

I have read about sanding sealers, paste fillers, etc. I've read about the
thick bar top stuff - not here. Nothing is pointing me in the right
direction. I've got an old embossed filler stick from Lee Valley. Works
great in the microwave. I just use slivers in a small jam jar (~1oz.). Then
slice off with blade. I've got filler crayons - too soft. I've got a couple
plastic wood in a small can. I've got an old Lee Valley filler/stuff in a
tube you kneed and warm with water. I have auto body filler - the two part
polyester and styrene resin and hardener stuff. I also have another autobody
tube: auto body glazing and spot putty (no mixing). I have Minwax Helmsman
i/o spar urethane. I've got a bag o bug bits. I've got Duratite surfacing
putty. It also says its plastic, and to only use Duratite solvent if becomes
dry, which I don't have. The original can says contains volatile naphtha and
acetone. Haven't found out what to use to thin it yet.

When you put your eye down you see depth and too much sanding. Just paint
will show these until 12th layer. Some products seem like the right thing at
a given time, but not specific for my needs now. I don't care about
repetition or the time I'll spend going over and over it again and again
with any lacquer or polyurethane-like product, sanding in between coats.

So I don't know what to do. And/or buy. If it were drywall I would know what
to do. I'm good at that. I'm hoping I can use one of the autobody products
like I would polyfilla. Another suspicion is sanding sealer - I think it
may be in the right direction, under primer and paint, though this is a
clear product!? Any thoughts

Seeing as how you are going to paint it, use the Bondo, apply as smooth as
you can and sand flat, do it several times if necc.
Also after the first coat of paint you may see some spots you miised just
mix up some more & bondo & sand as much as you want to

Good Luck, George
"bent" wrote in message
...
I have a 1-1/4" thick 30" x 64" pine desk finished in clear lacquer. Its
writing surface is beat up. I'm going to paint it with Behr Red Bark
(4c18-1) hi-gloss paint, after I sand, patch and prime it, to match room
casing and other furniture I'll paint. I am not considering a clear
finish.

A large part of the damage has mostly not broken through the clear surface
finish. But these dents are numerous and lengthy. Like a kid skateboarded
on
marbles. There are some other smallish chips, burns, and dents. I would
have
to belt sand or power plane too much. . I do not want to undercut all of
these with a chisel or get out the Dremel. In that case I'd rather live
with
the indentations under the paint. They are concave like a marble
impression.
I'd be fine scuffing them up, but not getting any undercut. That would be
creating damage and going in the other direction.

I have read about sanding sealers, paste fillers, etc. I've read about the
thick bar top stuff - not here. Nothing is pointing me in the right
direction. I've got an old embossed filler stick from Lee Valley. Works
great in the microwave. I just use slivers in a small jam jar (~1oz.).
Then
slice off with blade. I've got filler crayons - too soft. I've got a
couple
plastic wood in a small can. I've got an old Lee Valley filler/stuff in a
tube you kneed and warm with water. I have auto body filler - the two part
polyester and styrene resin and hardener stuff. I also have another
autobody
tube: auto body glazing and spot putty (no mixing). I have Minwax Helmsman
i/o spar urethane. I've got a bag o bug bits. I've got Duratite surfacing
putty. It also says its plastic, and to only use Duratite solvent if
becomes
dry, which I don't have. The original can says contains volatile naphtha
and
acetone. Haven't found out what to use to thin it yet.

When you put your eye down you see depth and too much sanding. Just paint
will show these until 12th layer. Some products seem like the right thing
at
a given time, but not specific for my needs now. I don't care about
repetition or the time I'll spend going over and over it again and again
with any lacquer or polyurethane-like product, sanding in between coats.

So I don't know what to do. And/or buy. If it were drywall I would know
what
to do. I'm good at that. I'm hoping I can use one of the autobody products
like I would polyfilla. Another suspicion is sanding sealer - I think it
may be in the right direction, under primer and paint, though this is a
clear product!? Any thoughts

"George M. Kazaka" wrote in message
news
Seeing as how you are going to paint it, use the Bondo, apply as smooth as
you can and sand flat, do it several times if necc.
Also after the first coat of paint you may see some spots you miised just
mix up some more & bondo & sand as much as you want to

Good Luck, George

I am exceptional w/ polyfilla. I am only painting this pine desk b/c it
will match a lot (everything) else when I'm done, begining w/ splayed legs
of a $2K blk. leather chair/ottoman. If I were to worry about little bits
chipping through the paint in the long run w/r/t using bondo, how would I
prevent this from happening? With polyfill, it will stick to anything, and
you can add a mirometer if you need it. I would not like worm hole-like
tracks of bondo popping up. When I mentioned dulling the edges I am just
thinking about finger pressure through the sandpaper in order to get into
the concave grooves. I'd need to folow each line carefully. I was told I
need not sand through to bare wood in order to paintover the clear lacquer.
What is the adhesiveness and how should I prepare these grooves, specks to
achieve a cohesive base.

bent wrote:
I have a 1-1/4" thick 30" x 64" pine desk finished in clear lacquer. Its
writing surface is beat up. I'm going to paint it with Behr Red Bark
(4c18-1) hi-gloss paint, after I sand, patch and prime it, to match room
casing and other furniture I'll paint. I am not considering a clear finish.

A large part of the damage has mostly not broken through the clear surface
finish. But these dents are numerous and lengthy. Like a kid skateboarded on
marbles. There are some other smallish chips, burns, and dents. I would have
to belt sand or power plane too much. . I do not want to undercut all of
these with a chisel or get out the Dremel. In that case I'd rather live with
the indentations under the paint. They are concave like a marble impression.
I'd be fine scuffing them up, but not getting any undercut. That would be
creating damage and going in the other direction.

I have read about sanding sealers, paste fillers, etc. I've read about the
thick bar top stuff - not here. Nothing is pointing me in the right
direction. I've got an old embossed filler stick from Lee Valley. Works
great in the microwave. I just use slivers in a small jam jar (~1oz.). Then
slice off with blade. I've got filler crayons - too soft. I've got a couple
plastic wood in a small can. I've got an old Lee Valley filler/stuff in a
tube you kneed and warm with water. I have auto body filler - the two part
polyester and styrene resin and hardener stuff. I also have another autobody
tube: auto body glazing and spot putty (no mixing). I have Minwax Helmsman
i/o spar urethane. I've got a bag o bug bits. I've got Duratite surfacing
putty. It also says its plastic, and to only use Duratite solvent if becomes
dry, which I don't have. The original can says contains volatile naphtha and
acetone. Haven't found out what to use to thin it yet.

When you put your eye down you see depth and too much sanding. Just paint
will show these until 12th layer. Some products seem like the right thing at
a given time, but not specific for my needs now. I don't care about
repetition or the time I'll spend going over and over it again and again
with any lacquer or polyurethane-like product, sanding in between coats.

So I don't know what to do. And/or buy. If it were drywall I would know what
to do. I'm good at that. I'm hoping I can use one of the autobody products
like I would polyfilla. Another suspicion is sanding sealer - I think it
may be in the right direction, under primer and paint, though this is a
clear product!? Any thoughts

Hi, I have had good lick with rock-hard, mainly be sure to prime that
laquer so what ever you use will adhere to it as for the duratite I
fouind you something on that hope it helps

Notebook, 1993-
MATERIALS & METHODS - Painting - Oil Painting - Binders and Diluents -
Water-thinned Adhesives - Synthetic Resins

Characteristics - Painting Methods & Techniques - Materials and
Equipment - Work Space & Storage - Manufacture of Pigments - Protection
of the Picture

From: Kay, Reed. The Painter's Guide to Studio Methods and Materials.
Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-Hall, Inc., 1983.

Synthetic Resins - Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA)

Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA) is a synthetic resin. When it is prepared as an
emulsion, it serves as the principal ingredient of many milky white
glues sold under such names as Elmer's Glue-All (Borden Chemical Co.)
and Duratite White Glue (D. A. P., Inc.). These products are widely
used in the industrial trades as adhesives for wood, paper, and other
materials. They are liquid at room temperature and do not require
heating in a glue pot. The glue may be thinned with water, and it forms
films that are flexible, clear, and water resistant. It is neither
toxic nor flammable.
Especially pure grades of these polyvinyl acetate emulsions are
manufactured under such names as Everflex (W. R. Grace & Co.) BG or
Polyco (Bordon Chemical Co.) 2113 or 2151. For more than thirty years
artists have been using polyvinyl acetate emulsions as binders for
paint and gesso (page 201). In addition these emulsions have been
employed as adhesives to attach paper, textiles, or other materials to
a support surface. [pp. 37-38]

[Kay, Reed. The Painter's Guide to Studio Methods and Materials.
Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-Hall, Inc., 1983.]

blugenes

bent wrote:
I have a 1-1/4" thick 30" x 64" pine desk finished in clear lacquer.
Its writing surface is beat up. I'm going to paint it with Behr Red
Bark (4c18-1) hi-gloss paint, after I sand, patch and prime it, to
match room casing and other furniture I'll paint. I am not
considering a clear finish.

A large part of the damage has mostly not broken through the clear
surface finish. But these dents are numerous and lengthy. Like a kid
skateboarded on marbles.

You may be able to steam them out. Or at least raise them so they need
less filling/sanding. To do so, remove the finish locally (lacquer
thinner), dampen the wood slightly, put a clean damp cloth over and a
hot iron on top. When the steam stops, take a look. If raised, stop;
if not, try repeating.
_______________

There are some other smallish chips, burns,
and dents.
I have read about sanding sealers, paste fillers, etc. I've read
about the thick bar top stuff - not here. Nothing is pointing me in
the right direction. I've got an old embossed filler stick from Lee
Valley. Works great in the microwave. I just use slivers in a small
jam jar (~1oz.). Then slice off with blade. I've got filler crayons -
too soft. I've got a couple plastic wood in a small can. I've got an
old Lee Valley filler/stuff in a tube you kneed and warm with water.

Forget those
____________

I have auto body filler - the two part polyester and styrene resin
and hardener stuff.

Good for deep dings. Be careful sanding it though - it will be harder
than the pine and you don't want to sand away surrounding wood while
sanding the filler level.
_______________

I also have another autobody tube: auto body
glazing and spot putty (no mixing).

Good stuff, very useful for areas such as your smallish chips.
Basically, it is the same as the auto body filler but is talc and
lacquer rather than talc and resin. Since the lacquer evaporates you
may have to overfill slightly or apply another layer. No big deal, it
sands wonderfully.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

This is not a project where I can tackle it in parts. I need a macro
solution to a micro problem. Any prep (non-filling) other than stripping or
roughing up will likely be a step in the wrong direction.

I don't know how to repair a surface like this after I used lacquer thinner
to remove the finish and allow access to the pores.

BTW Could I not get a kettle boiling and drip it over the indentationsother
than using an iron?

But having cleared an area with lacquer thinner, the only way I would think
of to get back to an even finish would be to sand. Then I'd have a big cup.
Are you suggesting any step, besides sanding, between stripping w/ lacquer
thinner, raising the grain and filling? If raising the dents I'm worried
about what I'd be left with after pouring LT, scraping and sanding.

bent wrote:
This is not a project where I can tackle it in parts. I need a macro
solution to a micro problem. Any prep (non-filling) other than
stripping or roughing up will likely be a step in the wrong direction.

I don't know how to repair a surface like this after I used lacquer
thinner to remove the finish and allow access to the pores.

I didn't suggest you strip the whole thing, just local areas if you
wanted to try steaming out the dents. To "repair" afterward you would
spot prime before painting.
_______________


BTW Could I not get a kettle boiling and drip it over the
indentationsother than using an iron?

Boiling water has less heat than steam.
_______________

But having cleared an area with lacquer thinner, the only way I would
think of to get back to an even finish would be to sand. Then I'd
have a big cup.

You mean a depression from sanding? Only if you used a belt or disc
sander with really coarse paper and let the thing sit on the wood.

Are you suggesting any step, besides sanding, between
stripping w/ lacquer thinner, raising the grain and filling? If
raising the dents I'm worried about what I'd be left with after
pouring LT, scraping and sanding.

First off, I wouldn't pour lacquer thinner...I'd put some on a swab and
use that to remove the lacquer just over the dent. As I said above, any
bare wood should be primed before painting.



--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico