In an effort to get a perfectly smooth painted (latex) finish on a
door, I applied a water-based sanding sealer (Olympic) prior to
painting. The stuff dried within seconds of being applied, at least
enough to prevent it from leveling. Trying to sand it level brought me
back to bare wood on most of the door.

Multiple coats did result in a beautifully smooth finish on most of the
door, but there were still some ripples and rough areas that seemed to
emanate from the very first coat.

After sanding back to bare wood, I'm reluctant to try this stuff again,
but I'm thinking it would level quite a bit better if I could slow the
dry time. Will Floetrol help?

Thanks for any thoughts.

wrote in message
oups.com...
In an effort to get a perfectly smooth painted (latex) finish on a
door, I applied a water-based sanding sealer (Olympic) prior to
painting. The stuff dried within seconds of being applied, at least
enough to prevent it from leveling. Trying to sand it level brought me
back to bare wood on most of the door.

Multiple coats did result in a beautifully smooth finish on most of the
door, but there were still some ripples and rough areas that seemed to
emanate from the very first coat.

After sanding back to bare wood, I'm reluctant to try this stuff again,
but I'm thinking it would level quite a bit better if I could slow the
dry time. Will Floetrol help?

Thanks for any thoughts.


mix it with a retarder, most sealers have thinners and retarders ,the latter
to extend the drying times

Why'd you apply the sanding sealer? Tom

wrote:
In an effort to get a perfectly smooth painted (latex) finish on a
door, I applied a water-based sanding sealer (Olympic) prior to
painting. The stuff dried within seconds of being applied, at least
enough to prevent it from leveling. Trying to sand it level brought
me back to bare wood on most of the door.

Multiple coats did result in a beautifully smooth finish on most of
the door, but there were still some ripples and rough areas that
seemed to emanate from the very first coat.

After sanding back to bare wood, I'm reluctant to try this stuff
again, but I'm thinking it would level quite a bit better if I could
slow the dry time. Will Floetrol help?

So when/if you get a perfectly smooth surface, how are you going to get
ugh latex on perfectly smooth? Not with a brush or roller, probably
not sprayed either.


--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

mix it with a retarder, most sealers have thinners and retarders ,the
latter to extend the drying times

I see nothing on the Olympic web page about the availability of a
retarder. I'll ask at Lowes. Thanks.

Why'd you apply the sanding sealer? Tom

As I applied multiple coats of my top coat to hide the wood grain, the
surface displayed more and more orange peel, in spite of sanding
between coats. Since latex doesn't sand well, I was hoping this might
offer a solution.

I use BIN (pigmented) or Seal Coat (clear) under just about anything,
including latex.

I'll take a closer look at these. I like the idea of a silver bullet.
:-)

Thank you.

So when/if you get a perfectly smooth surface, how are you going to
get
ugh latex on perfectly smooth? Not with a brush or roller, probably
not sprayed either.

Well, I had hopes. :-) Lots of articles in the archives where people
promised that using the foam rollers would provide a glass-like finish.
I'm beginning to think that must only be true with oil paint.

Actually, my first coat is pretty darn smooth, just too thin. After a
couple of coats, it's no longer smooth.

I have one place on my wall where I applied a skim coat of joint
compound and the paint is very smooth, so it seemed plausible that the
smoother the original surface, the more likely the paint would be
smooth. However, it may be true that a coat of latex paint doesn't
provide the ideal surface for another coat to level.

If these experiments convert me to oil paint for some applications,
then at least I'll go into it knowing where the real limits of latex
are.

n addition, yer younglings will bang that perfect surface up soon
enough.

No younglings! :-)


Get it on some horses.

Been on horses for about two weeks. sigh

Priming is a must for fresh wood.

It was actually stained, but didn't seem to have any finish on it.
Regardless, I used Zinser's BullsEye 123.

I will try your suggestions. I had not used greater than 220 on the
sanding, but I did have Floetrol added to the primer and topcoat.

Thank you!

On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 08:01:18 -0800, gesres wrote:

I use BIN (pigmented) or Seal Coat (clear) under just about anything,
including latex.

I'll take a closer look at these. I like the idea of a silver bullet.
:-)


I haven't used the BIN, but I too swear by Sealcoat. I even use it as my
shellac finish. Takes a few more coats since it's a one pound mix, but
goes on flatter.

Have read that Zinsser doesn't recommend Seal Coat as top coat/final
finish. Have NOT read why not.

On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 08:51:26 -0800, Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 08:01:18 -0800, gesres wrote:

I use BIN (pigmented) or Seal Coat (clear) under just about anything,
including latex.

I'll take a closer look at these. I like the idea of a silver bullet.
:-)


I haven't used the BIN, but I too swear by Sealcoat. I even use it as my
shellac finish. Takes a few more coats since it's a one pound mix, but
goes on flatter.

FWIW . . .

I grew up with oil fired 'Hot Water Radiator' heating. We were ALWAYS doing
something to the house and basement was storage/shop/playroom,etc. There
were no 'water based' finishes.

'Fast Forward' about 30 years. A few years after I got married we bought a
house . . . with 'Gas Fired Hot Air' heating, etc. Needless to say . . . my
'skills' were to be applied. When I used the OIL based finishes I was
familiar with, the entire house developed a subtle, odd odor. My wife, the
chemist identified it . . . "burned hydrocarbons". From the few molecules
that got into the air and came in contact with the tiny 'pilot lights' in
the rangetop and water heater!! So began my research into 'Water-Based, 100%
Acrylic, . . . etc' finishes. And a frustrating time it has been !!

My last 'adventure' was finishing a wooden replica of a 17th Centry ships
anchor. It took about 3 months and about 12 coats of grey primer and black
finish coat. The basic problem was that when I did the 'between coats'
sanding . . . the 'coat' would peel off !! Even after 72 hours of 'drying'
in a 'room temp' environment. {and with different concentrations of
Flotrol}. I finally called the paint manufacturer . . . and pushed through
untill I got directly to the Technical Lab.

It turns out that the 'Acrylics' need a LONG 'cure time' . . . 14 DAYS {or
longer, depending on the temperature & humidity of the environment}!! This
is similar to the epoxy I work with - but they only need about 72hrs for a
'working cure'.

In your case I would do a few experiments. Take a piece of '1x6' paint it
one side with the primer. Then {starting at 3 days} sand a 6 to 8inch
section, then sand another section the next day, etc., etc., untill the
board is 'filled'. Then put on a topcoat and repeat. To be exact . . .
follow whatever sequence you on your door, etc. While this may take time,
you will then KNOW, EXACTLY what WORKS for YOU. Take notes, and you will be
able to repaat the results . . . every time. Even though you may find
variations . . . in you change brands, if the manufacturer changes
formulations, etc. . . . you'll know WHERE to start for that specific
combination.

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

{PS: Get used to it . . . petroleium-based finishes are getting slowey
pushed or legislated out of the market}

wrote in message
ups.com...
So when/if you get a perfectly smooth surface, how are you going to
get
ugh latex on perfectly smooth? Not with a brush or roller, probably
not sprayed either.

Well, I had hopes. :-) Lots of articles in the archives where people
promised that using the foam rollers would provide a glass-like finish.
I'm beginning to think that must only be true with oil paint.

Actually, my first coat is pretty darn smooth, just too thin. After a
couple of coats, it's no longer smooth.

I have one place on my wall where I applied a skim coat of joint
compound and the paint is very smooth, so it seemed plausible that the
smoother the original surface, the more likely the paint would be
smooth. However, it may be true that a coat of latex paint doesn't
provide the ideal surface for another coat to level.

If these experiments convert me to oil paint for some applications,
then at least I'll go into it knowing where the real limits of latex
are.

In your case I would do a few experiments.

Ron, I like your approach. Acquiring first-hand knowledge is always
better than just doing something you read about somewhere.

Thanks for your suggestions!

Thu, Dec 1, 2005, 10:21pm (EST-3) burbled:
snip Thanks for any thoughts.

Here's a thought. Hold the can up in front of your face, at eye
level, with the front of the can facing you. Very slowly, and very
carefully, turn the can around so the back of the can is facing you.
Slowly read the words of wisdom thereon, from the manufacturer; repeat
as needed. If that doesn't help, there should be a 1-800 number
somewhere on the label. That number is there so you can call the
manufaturer and ask your questions. At this point, you set the can
down, with the front facing in the direction of your choice. Then you
call the 1-800 number, on the telephone, and ask your question(s). No
prob.



JOAT
A rolling stone gathers no moss...unless it's a hobby he does on the
weekends.