"Vogon_Poet" wrote in message
ups.com...
constructing a decorative hatbox as shown in the image (if it goes
thru). For
sentimental and aesthetic reasons, I want it made of redwood (yes, it's
very soft). The base is simply 14" 2x6 pieces dovetailed together. The
risers frame glass panes all around to proudly display the hat. The
problem is joining the risers to the base at the dovetailed corners

I saw the picture on ABPW...

I'd be inclined to use mortise and tenon construction with "posts" in the
corners and rails (like aprons on an upside-down table) for the sides. The
posts would rise above the rails and support the "roof" and glass.

Alternatively, if you are set on dovetails, use posts in the corners and
dovetail the rails into the outside face of the posts with the tails on the
rails and pins on the posts.

IMO the dovetailed 2X6 stock is all out of proportion to the size of the
display case. It can be much more delicate...

John

John Grossbohlin wrote:

"Vogon_Poet" wrote in message
ups.com...
constructing a decorative hatbox as shown in the image (if it goes

thru). For
sentimental and aesthetic reasons, I want it made of redwood (yes, it's
very soft). The base is simply 14" 2x6 pieces dovetailed together. The
risers frame glass panes all around to proudly display the hat. The
problem is joining the risers to the base at the dovetailed corners


I saw the picture on ABPW...

I'd be inclined to use mortise and tenon construction with "posts" in the
corners and rails (like aprons on an upside-down table) for the sides. The
posts would rise above the rails and support the "roof" and glass.

Alternatively, if you are set on dovetails, use posts in the corners and
dovetail the rails into the outside face of the posts with the tails on the
rails and pins on the posts.

IMO the dovetailed 2X6 stock is all out of proportion to the size of the
display case. It can be much more delicate...

John


First, thanks so much for a candid and well versed reply!

Now the base is already constructed with dovetails. The 2x6 stock was
picked for 2 reasons: the back of the base houses a large logbook
(scrapbook sized, full of military memorabelia), and the face of the
base now includes a functional clock, inset so the hands are flush with
the face and a glass cover can protect it. So the hatbox can be on
display - and there's an excuse to look at it once and again. Thus the
base had to be sturdy to support the hefty logbook and the hat display.
I figgured sturdy + redwood = thick. Now I can probably find someone
who has the jigs for this, how deep should my tenons be considering the
type of wood and what it's supporting?

Also, I guess the glass was a pipe dream. I had visions of having it
etched, which is tough to do with acrylic.

I'm completely not following you on the roof description however.
Please check out the *new* actual picture in ABPW "Hatbox." It shows
what I'm going for much better than the computer picture.

Thanks

Marcus wrote:

First, thanks so much for a candid and well versed reply!

Now the base is already constructed with dovetails. The 2x6 stock was
picked for 2 reasons: the back of the base houses a large logbook
(scrapbook sized, full of military memorabelia), and the face of the
base now includes a functional clock, inset so the hands are flush with
the face and a glass cover can protect it. So the hatbox can be on
display - and there's an excuse to look at it once and again. Thus the
base had to be sturdy to support the hefty logbook and the hat display.
I figgured sturdy + redwood = thick. Now I can probably find someone
who has the jigs for this, how deep should my tenons be considering the
type of wood and what it's supporting?

Also, I guess the glass was a pipe dream. I had visions of having it
etched, which is tough to do with acrylic.

I'm completely not following you on the roof description however. Please
check out the *new* actual picture in ABPW "Hatbox." It shows what I'm
going for much better than the computer picture.

Thanks

Did I mention the new photograph in APBW?

Thanks

"Marcus" wrote in message
om...
John Grossbohlin wrote:

"Vogon_Poet" wrote in message
ups.com...
constructing a decorative hatbox as shown in the image (if it goes

First, thanks so much for a candid and well versed reply!

Now the base is already constructed with dovetails. The 2x6 stock was
picked for 2 reasons: the back of the base houses a large logbook
(scrapbook sized, full of military memorabelia), and the face of the base
now includes a functional clock, inset so the hands are flush with the
face and a glass cover can protect it. So the hatbox can be on display -
and there's an excuse to look at it once and again. Thus the base had to
be sturdy to support the hefty logbook and the hat display. I figgured
sturdy + redwood = thick. Now I can probably find someone who has the
jigs for this, how deep should my tenons be considering the type of wood
and what it's supporting?

Also, I guess the glass was a pipe dream. I had visions of having it
etched, which is tough to do with acrylic.

I'm completely not following you on the roof description however. Please
check out the *new* actual picture in ABPW "Hatbox." It shows what I'm
going for much better than the computer picture.

I saw a photograph of the hatbox...

Your reference to the tenons implies you are thinking of building another
one??? If so, I'd think the weight is really on the bottom of the box with
little on the structure itself. Assuming you are putting the base in a
groove/dado in the bottom of the sides 4/4 stock would be adequate. The
posts in the corners could probably be 1 1/2 X 1 1/2 with 3/4 long tenons
on the ends of the sides.

John

John Grossbohlin wrote:

"Marcus" wrote in message
om...

John Grossbohlin wrote:


"Vogon_Poet" wrote in message
groups.com...
constructing a decorative hatbox as shown in the image (if it goes


First, thanks so much for a candid and well versed reply!

Now the base is already constructed with dovetails. The 2x6 stock was
picked for 2 reasons: the back of the base houses a large logbook
(scrapbook sized, full of military memorabelia), and the face of the base
now includes a functional clock, inset so the hands are flush with the
face and a glass cover can protect it. So the hatbox can be on display -
and there's an excuse to look at it once and again. Thus the base had to
be sturdy to support the hefty logbook and the hat display. I figgured
sturdy + redwood = thick. Now I can probably find someone who has the
jigs for this, how deep should my tenons be considering the type of wood
and what it's supporting?

Also, I guess the glass was a pipe dream. I had visions of having it
etched, which is tough to do with acrylic.

I'm completely not following you on the roof description however. Please
check out the *new* actual picture in ABPW "Hatbox." It shows what I'm
going for much better than the computer picture.


I saw a photograph of the hatbox...

Your reference to the tenons implies you are thinking of building another
one??? If so, I'd think the weight is really on the bottom of the box with
little on the structure itself. Assuming you are putting the base in a
groove/dado in the bottom of the sides 4/4 stock would be adequate. The
posts in the corners could probably be 1 1/2 X 1 1/2 with 3/4 long tenons
on the ends of the sides.

John



No this is the only one I'm building. I was thinking of going with the
1.5 x1.5 posts like you said and may have to do that, although posts
that large look a bit bulky. Did you follow what John was talking about
earlier (copied below)?

John said:
I saw the picture on ABPW...

I'd be inclined to use mortise and tenon construction with "posts" in
the corners and rails (like aprons on an upside-down table) for the
sides. The posts would rise above the rails and support the "roof" and
glass.

Alternatively, if you are set on dovetails, use posts in the corners
and dovetail the rails into the outside face of the posts with the
tails on the rails and pins on the posts.